The Regency CI2600 & CI2700 operation thread

[Wolves1]

I just wiped the glass with a damp paper towel before adding a few logs. I took the haze off but didn't scrub the black stphot
Let me know if you wanted a photo of something else.
View attachment 190680

That black on the corners is normal with just a few logs if you fill the stove with wood as it was told to me "fill it to the gills" it will run much hotter and you will get less blacking.

 

[Wolves1]

https://assets.regency-fire.com/get...879-a98ec89e3423/Pro-Series-User-Guide-Insert

 

[Wolves1]

You can see how full the stove is I have longer wood so I fill it east west just make sure that the wood can't roll on the glass.

 

[vetrano]

That black on the corners is normal with just a few logs if you fill the stove with wood as it was told to me "fill it to the gills" it will run much hotter and you will get less blacking.

I did fill it last night which was the burn that blackened the glass. I find the glass starts getting black when I close off the air after the fire is established.

What is the maximum temperature you try to keep the unit below?

Sent from my 7040T using Tapatalk

 

[Wolves1]

1,300

 

[waywardzombie]

Looking to put a wood insert into my fireplace. I've read the prior operation thread on the CI2600, it seems as though this stove is a strong choice at this point and most of the original complaints have been resolved. Is that the consensus at this point?

Could any folks that have purchased recently comment on what they paid?

Here's what I got as a quote from a local dealer:
insert: 3038
faceplate: 200
backing plate: 140

The blower is free now, so for the complete stove 3378.

 

[Wolves1]

Looking to put a wood insert into my fireplace. I've read the prior operation thread on the CI2600, it seems as though this stove is a strong choice at this point and most of the original complaints have been resolved. Is that the consensus at this point?

Could any folks that have purchased recently comment on what they paid?

Here's what I got as a quote from a local dealer:
insert: 3038
faceplate: 200
backing plate: 140

The blower is free now, so for the complete stove 3378.

Do you have a liner in already and does that include installation?

 

[waywardzombie]

Do you have a liner in already and does that include installation?

I don't have a liner in already and it doesn't include installation, it's just for the insert itself, the faceplate, and the backing plate.

I'm debating whether to order the liner myself and to do the install, the labor is coming in at around 700 in the two quotes I've gotten and the insulated liner cost varies from $800 to $1100. I can get the parts for around $1000 myself I think (only looked at rockford chimney supply so far, liked the calculator) so I could save close $700 and probably get a better liner.

 

[vetrano]

This is what I was left with this morning after fully loading the insert yesterday evening. I just noticed the door gasket fails the paper test in the upper left. Its good everywhere else.

I had the air almost fully closed which kept temperatures around 900-1000 for several hours. There were barely any flames on the wood, but secondaries were strong and the cat was glowing brightly. Is it possible that I am closing g off the air supply too much?

 

[Wolves1]

Yes I I think you are closing the air too much and maybe the bypass to soon. Also fluff the gasket up a little. How many washers are still on the door?

 

[vetrano]

Yes I I think you are closing the air too much and maybe the bypass to soon. Also fluff the gasket up a little. How many washers are still on the door?

I close the bypass when it is between 500-600f. Should I let the temperature keep climbing before closing it?
Once the bypass is closed I start closing the air as much as possible without extinguishing the fire. Is this too aggressive?

All washers are still installed. I'll try fluffing the gasket before using it again.

 

[Wolves1]

I close the bypass when it is between 500-600f. Should I let the temperature keep climbing before closing it?
Once the bypass is closed I start closing the air as much as possible without extinguishing the fire. Is this too aggressive?

All washers are still installed. I'll try fluffing the gasket before using it again.

Fluff and take one set of washers out. I know the temp is important but when you add wood it releases moisture by leaving it open longer it allows more of the moisture out the bypass. I would fluff and take washers out first and stike to your doing if that doesn't works leave bypass longer. Sorry if I asked before do you know your moisture content of wood and is that split and tested on the inside?

 

[Wolves1]

Sorry about the auto correct.

 

[vetrano]

I only measured moisture without freshly splitting with a friend's meter at the start of the season. Different splits were all below 20. Wood was split and stacked spring of 2015.

 

[n20integra]

Vetrono,


That glass buildup does not look normal. I had a similar problem develop shortly after my stove was installed over 2 years ago. Shortly after the stove was installed I had the normal blackening at the corners but as the first month or two wore on the glass became very black and I had poor draft too. The issue was that my cap was installed too far down onto the top of my liner which restricted the outlet of the stove. The poor draft led to more soot buildup that eventually blocked what little space was left between the top of the liner and the chimney cap.

Take a look at your chimney cap and make sure you don't have any restrictions there.

 

[vetrano]

Thanks for the tip. I'll look at the cap tonight and post if that is it.

However I suspect wolves1's suggestion that I am closing my air too much may be correct because I have seen the glass start to blacken when I close the air intake lever the last 1/4. Also the draft appears to be very strong when the air inlet is open (you can hear air rushing into the stove).

 

[vetrano]

Fluff and take one set of washers out. I know the temp is important but when you add wood it releases moisture by leaving it open longer it allows more of the moisture out the bypass. I would fluff and take washers out first and stike to your doing if that doesn't works leave bypass longer. Sorry if I asked before do you know your moisture content of wood and is that split and tested on the inside?

Can you describe what the fire looks like when you decide to close the bypass on a reload? Do you wait for all of the logs to be burning vigorously or just wait until the temperature is above 500 again?

Also when adjusting the air intake after closing the bypass do you aim to have flames in the wood or just secondary flames with the wood almost smoldering?

 

[n20integra]

Thanks for the tip. I'll look at the cap tonight and post if that is it.

However I suspect wolves1's suggestion that I am closing my air too much may be correct because I have seen the glass start to blacken when I close the air intake lever the last 1/4. Also the draft appears to be very strong when the air inlet is open (you can hear air rushing into the stove).

I personally have my restrictor plate blocking about 1/2 of the air inlet and I can close down my damper to fully closed and my glass will never look like yours does.



This is my stove in the morning after having the air intake just slightly cracked open

 

[vetrano]

I personally have my restrictor plate blocking about 1/2 of the air inlet and I can close down my damper to fully closed and my glass will never look like yours does.

Wow, that is a big difference. I suspect regency made more changes than just the restrictor plate to the newest CI2600 being built now. I can totally kill the fire by closing the air intake suddenly. A friend with a CI2600 from last year commented that my unit has more control by adjusting the air. I can only go fully closed by gradually closing the air after the secondaries kick in and the cat is glowing, but even then the wood will be smouldering.

 

[n20integra]

Wow, that is a big difference. I suspect regency made more changes than just the restrictor plate to the newest CI2600 being built now. I can totally kill the fire by closing the air intake suddenly. A friend with a CI2600 from last year commented that my unit has more control by adjusting the air. I can only go fully closed by gradually closing the air after the secondaries kick in and the cat is glowing, but even then the wood will be smouldering.

I have the updated version of the 2600. I had issues with my upper firebox area warping and when I noticed the extra reinforcement done on the newer version I complained and they replaced the entire unit with the updated version.

The newer version definitely has better air control. I can pretty much kill the fire also by completely closing down the air early enough. If I wait until it is a roaring fire it will knock it down to a rolling fire until most of the smaller pieces are spent.

 

[vetrano]

The newer version definitely has better air control. I can pretty much kill the fire also by completely closing down the air early enough. If I wait until it is a roaring fire it will knock it down to a rolling fire until most of the smaller pieces are spent.

What size liner do you have? Mine is the regency 5.5" diameter liner and is just over 24' long.

I'm starting to wonder if my wood is less dry than I thought. I need to get my hand on a moisture meter to measure a fresh split.

 

[n20integra]

What size liner do you have? Mine is the regency 5.5" diameter liner and is just over 24' long.

I'm starting to wonder if my wood is less dry than I thought. I need to get my hand on a moisture meter to measure a fresh split.

Same specs on my the liner here

 

[Wolves1]

The wood can make a big difference also you can get different burns with the same stove in different houses. A lot goes into it the wood, the flue even direction of the wind. My insert I can close the air all the way my stove the regency f3500 the equivalent of the insert I can't close it all the way I need to keep it open at lest 1/4 way.

 

[vetrano]

I came across this website by the company who manufacturers the catalyst for the CI2600 (Applied Ceramics). It provides a lot of info about operation, maintenance, and how their cats work in general. A lot of wording in the Regency owner's manual is similar so I suspect Regency based their operating instructions on this page. Anyway I think it is a good read for anyone who owns this insert.

https://www.firecatcombustors.com/Articles.asp?ID=250

 

[Wolves1]

I came across this website by the company who manufacturers the catalyst for the CI2600 (Applied Ceramics). It provides a lot of info about operation, maintenance, and how their cats work in general. A lot of wording in the Regency owner's manual is similar so I suspect Regency based their operating instructions on this page. Anyway I think it is a good read for anyone who owns this insert.

https://www.firecatcombustors.com/Articles.asp?ID=250

Thank you I love it lots of info.