The Regency CI2600 & CI2700 operation thread

[Lefty13]

Thanks Wolves1! It's oak and I just got it about 3 weeks ago. It's sitting outside on my wrap around porch so it has very little seasoning. I'm going to get to work on getting the wood inside a bit more and probably order the ci2600 tomorrow! The wood I have is a type of Oak... I'm guessing putting a piece of cedar inside as kindling might not be a good idea....??

You want to engage the cat or it will smoke to much out side and not burn efficient. If your wood is on the moist side it will take longer to reach proper temps add 15min to the time I gave above. When did you get your wood and what kind of wood?

 

[Wolves1]

I love this stove I love it so much this year I extended my house and I put the regency F3500 the stove equivalent of the insert so now I gave both but I am sorry to say I think your going to have a frustrating time with that wood the stove will not burn properly. Maybe the wood was seasoned before, not to many wood suppliers season their wood even if they say they do. If you can get a moisture meter with the two prongs they are not expensive and get a reading. Oak especially takes longer to season two years would be best but one year would do.

 

[bholler]

Regency Inserts are designed to use either a 5.5" (140mm) or 6" (152mm) flue. As long as the cross-sectional area is good why wouldn't an oval liner work? @bholler, have you run into this before with Regency?

Yeah that is total bs regency is fine with oval or 5.5". Yes I would prefer 6" round but there are times it just isn't feasible.

 

[Seamamo]

Yeah that is total bs regency is fine with oval or 5.5". Yes I would prefer 6" round but there are times it just isn't feasible.

Thanks for the info. I'm still waiting to hear from Regency directly but I will look that up so I can reference it directly to the folks I bought this from. At this point I feel like they are feeding me lines after lines to get out of installing this for some reason.

As for your question Begreen: NO! They did not come out and take a look. I asked the salesman if they were and he said they didn't need to. I was concerned about this and emailed him pictures and dimensions. I told him a number of times that we are extremely busy and have few windows to do this so lets try to address everything we need to in advance. I told him I would get him any information/measurements they might need. I'm actually kind of disappointed in myself that I didn't think of measuring the flue in advance but the salesman assured me that they have been doing this for almost 60 years with multiple stores and they've seen and done it all. Except they have NEVER seen a 5 3/4" wide flue. I guess the guy that built this place in "71 build his own flue liner too? Also, the installer said that he only brings a small set of Ocy/Acetylene bottles with him and he didn't have enough gas to cut out the parts of the heatilator.

I will post Regency's response when I get one. I don't suppose the forum rules allow you, Begreen, to recommend an installer in our location? I'm not sure who to trust now. As an extra bonus, I have the stove, 6" liner, and all the parts in my basement waiting for them to pick at all up sometime. They did reassure me how gracious they were for refunding my money without a re-stocking fee.

 

[begreen]

I don't know of installers in your area, but based on what you have said so far I would be seeking out alternatives. One source would be to get a certified sweep to do the work. Enter your zipcode here to located some: www.csia.org

 

[vetrano]

The sales manager called me and said Regency wont allow for any substitutes for a 6" round liner. I sent an email to Regency to inquire but haven't heard back yet. Does anyone have any input on this?

My dealer sold the regency liner kit which is a 5.5" diameter liner. This is what is listed in the regency price book given to dealers. I also emailed regency and they responded that a 5.5" liner is acceptable.

 

[Wolves1]

My dealer sold the regency liner kit which is a 5.5" diameter liner. This is what is listed in the regency price book given to dealers. I also emailed regency and they responded that a 5.5" liner is acceptable.

I'm glade now it's it to get the dealer to install.



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[Wolves1]

I'm glade now it's it to get the dealer to install.



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It's time


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[Wolves1]

Here's a video of the perfect slow burn.

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[Wolves1]

Its been burning like that for over an hour with cat temp 1050, 5 pieces of oak little over 1/2 full should burn like that for hours.

 

[griam01]

Here's a video of the perfect slow burn.

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I see you were able to post a video. Tapatalk app makes it nice doesn't it?

Great looking burn.


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[griam01]

I was finally able to do some insulation. We are unable to install a block l plate right now but hoping this helps some.


Also got the temp probe installed further in and you are right. The temps take off once the bypass is closed. I closed the bypass at 550 and was up to 950 in minutes. I'm afraid to know what I was actually running all these other burns.




One question. I was up to 1050 and my auto fan had not turned on yet. I turned it on manually and it's running but just checking if anyone has any suggestions.


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[griam01]

The fan did stay on when I flipped to automatic but took awhile. I'll keep an eye on it.


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[begreen]

It takes awhile for the whole stove body to warm up but once it is hot it should stay hot.

 

[griam01]

Had some coals this am but it was not packed full last night. It was warm but not enough to start on it's own. One paper knot and some kindling got it going. Laid some smaller pieces of wood and let that burn for about 15 mins. I then filled it up but had a piece I tried to shove in there north south that wouldn't fit. So had to lay it in front on the ledge but not touching the glass. Once it burned for about 5 to 10 mins I slicked the door then took the air to half after a few mins. It was showing 350 at this time. Once it got to 600 about 10 mins later I closed the bypass. It rose quickly after that to 1150. I slowly lowered the air more to 1/4 open. Here is my burn after about 10 mins.

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[griam01]

How hot is too hot for this unit. It was up to 1600 very quickly after a reload. And I turned the fan on high and it slowly lowered. It's holding between 1200-1300 for the last hour now.


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[Wolves1]

I see you were able to post a video. Tapatalk app makes it nice doesn't it?

Great looking burn.


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Thank you for the tip it is very easy.

 

[Wolves1]

How hot is too hot for this unit. It was up to 1600 very quickly after a reload. And I turned the fan on high and it slowly lowered. It's holding between 1200-1300 for the last hour now.


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That is a perfect burn can't get better then that. 1200-1300 is perfectly fined keep in mind that the thermometer if you use batteries when the batteries die the display shows temps jumping up very fast, it will show 1000 and bypass is opened and small flames.

 

[griam01]

I am noticing a lot of large coals this time of year. I have moved them to the front and laid a smaller piece on top to burn hot and get the coal bed down but I had a few questions. Do you do this with the bypass open or shut? Also is there a better way to do this? I have coals all the way up to the ledge and I can move them around and sometimes I will find almost a whole formed log still burning (red) under everything. I want to get the most out of it but I am loading it full and then tamping it down when burning. So after about 8-9 hours I have large coals. Should I open my air up sooner to heat those hotter so they go down? Would appreciate the advice. Thanks.


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[Heizer]

Hi again, Nearly 4 weeks later with several continuous burns I still have the same problem with the CI2600 glass. The build up occurs after every load and I am scraping this stuff off nearly two times a day. I am wondering why no one else has this problem and looking at the recent post you guys seem to have decent fires going with your CI2600 without this problem. My wood is seasoned and less than 15% moisture, so this can't really be the problem. Therefore I am back to my initial thought that something is wrong with the internal airflow and air wash. Where does the air come from for the air wash? Same for the secondary air tube. I don't see anything really going on with that either. Any thoughts? Thanks.

 

[Wolves1]

That is bad it's normally the corners get black on slow burns not the middle that stays clear. The moisture is that on the outside of the wood or split and inside reading? Also split wood that is inside the house to get an accurate reading.

 

[griam01]

Hi again, Nearly 4 weeks later with several continuous burns I still have the same problem with the CI2600 glass. The build up occurs after every load and I am scraping this stuff off nearly two times a day. I am wondering why no one else has this problem and looking at the recent post you guys seem to have decent fires going with your CI2600 without this problem. My wood is seasoned and less than 15% moisture, so this can't really be the problem. Therefore I am back to my initial thought that something is wrong with the internal airflow and air wash. Where does the air come from for the air wash? Same for the secondary air tube. I don't see anything really going on with that either. Any thoughts? Thanks.


View attachment 190370

My glass is dirty on the sides but the middle is ok. I was wondering what is supposed to be cleaning it. I've tried hot burns but don't notice a difference.




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[Wolves1]

Try keep the bypass open a little longer and keep the main air open full longer then close 1/4 at a time with about 10 min in between.

 

[Wolves1]

I am noticing a lot of large coals this time of year. I have moved them to the front and laid a smaller piece on top to burn hot and get the coal bed down but I had a few questions. Do you do this with the bypass open or shut? Also is there a better way to do this? I have coals all the way up to the ledge and I can move them around and sometimes I will find almost a whole formed log still burning (red) under everything. I want to get the most out of it but I am loading it full and then tamping it down when burning. So after about 8-9 hours I have large coals. Should I open my air up sooner to heat those hotter so they go down? Would appreciate the advice. Thanks.


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Try keeping the air open a little more.

 

[Wolves1]

Gives it more draft different lengths of flue requires different amount of air. My insert he has a long flue about 24 feet I can close the air completely my stove the equivalent of the insert has a 14 foot flue I need to keep the air open about 1/4 on slow burns.