Help with my insanely hot Regency 2450

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I had a scrap piece of 3/4” I tried to make a DIY turbulator. I think so. My 1800i has small deflector in front of the outlet I added a piece there to reduce the space under the stick deflector to 1/2”. My goal was to increase the flow path.

Any steel that’s not galvanized will work. Thread is here.

@ABMax24 took the defector concept about as far I one could take it. A steel large coffee or vegetable can could be cut with snips and shaped similar to what ABmax24 did as an experiment.

You are going down the modification path. You need accrue data and be willing to keep experimenting. Don’t expect success first try.

Is it very interesting thread. Cool ideas. Basically just trying to block the flow in different ways. Key damper would be trying to do the same thing for me right? So which road do you guys think I should go down first? Key damper, or customized deflector addition?
 
Is it very interesting thread. Cool ideas. Basically just trying to block the flow in different ways. Key damper would be trying to do the same thing for me right? So which road do you guys think I should go down first? Key damper, or customized deflector addition?
Key damper first for sure
 
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The advantage to adding resistance up on the baffle is that you stick with the original stove controls only. No additional monkeying. Seems worth a shot perhaps! Dunno.....
Good luck.
 
The advantage to adding resistance up on the baffle is that you stick with the original stove controls only. No additional monkeying. Seems worth a shot perhaps! Dunno.....
Good luck.
You can not make any adjustments while burning. Taking the surrounding of while in the testing phase gives you easy access to control the damper. It could be as easy as set it and forget it. Mine in is not.
 
A key damper on an insert is more challenging. What is being proposed is an easier way to test but is also quickly reversible.