Help with my insanely hot Regency 2450

[corona5k1635]

I had a scrap piece of 3/4” I tried to make a DIY turbulator. I think so. My 1800i has small deflector in front of the outlet I added a piece there to reduce the space under the stick deflector to 1/2”. My goal was to increase the flow path.

Any steel that’s not galvanized will work. Thread is here.

Thread 'DIY turbulator anyone?'

Dec 19, 2022

So I’m considering a DIY turbulator.
What is it?
See Jotuls diagram #73. It’s a structure that increases turbulence above the baffle to increase heat transfer to the stove top.
Why?
I’m trying to dial in a self diagnosed over drafting insert. It has a damper but I’m still not convinced it’s operating at peak efficiency. That stoves will be detailed in an another thread.

If Jotul thinks it’s worth it, is it worth try to make one myself? What would you use? I have about 2.5” of space above the baffle.

My thoughts are 2” tall pieces of 3/4” or 1” angle iron maybe 5-8 of them...

• EbS-P
• Replies: 23
• Forum: The Hearth Room - Wood Stoves and Fireplaces

@ABMax24 took the defector concept about as far I one could take it. A steel large coffee or vegetable can could be cut with snips and shaped similar to what ABmax24 did as an experiment.

You are going down the modification path. You need accrue data and be willing to keep experimenting. Don’t expect success first try.

Is it very interesting thread. Cool ideas. Basically just trying to block the flow in different ways. Key damper would be trying to do the same thing for me right? So which road do you guys think I should go down first? Key damper, or customized deflector addition?

 

[bholler]

Is it very interesting thread. Cool ideas. Basically just trying to block the flow in different ways. Key damper would be trying to do the same thing for me right? So which road do you guys think I should go down first? Key damper, or customized deflector addition?

Key damper first for sure

 

[moresnow]

The advantage to adding resistance up on the baffle is that you stick with the original stove controls only. No additional monkeying. Seems worth a shot perhaps! Dunno.....
Good luck.

 

[EbS-P]

The advantage to adding resistance up on the baffle is that you stick with the original stove controls only. No additional monkeying. Seems worth a shot perhaps! Dunno.....
Good luck.

You can not make any adjustments while burning. Taking the surrounding of while in the testing phase gives you easy access to control the damper. It could be as easy as set it and forget it. Mine in is not.

 

[begreen]

A key damper on an insert is more challenging. What is being proposed is an easier way to test but is also quickly reversible.

 

[corona5k1635]

Ok thanks guys. I'll try something and put out an update when I do..

 

[corona5k1635]

Update,

My dealer contacted Regency and they responded that: "We would be looking for an air leak in the insert.
The top of our wood stoves, on high burn, can reach 800-900° but if the top is glowing red, shut it down and search for the breach.”

Hmmmm well my stove reaches 800-900° STT on low burn. Guess that really isn't good. So today I took out all the secondary air tubes and baffle pieces and stuck my head in there with a flashlight and looked, and looked... did not see any air leaks or suspect weldings. I did notice that there are two little holes on either side, right before the secondary air tube that is furthest to the back of the stove. I consider that perhaps I should block these with magnets or something. But they are very little. They are also clearly made to be there on purpose.

I still like the idea of installing a key damper but waiting on that till the dealer and/or Regency has had their full say of trouble-shooting ideas for me to do. Here's a photo of the holes I found (these are the ones on the back right side.) Do you guys think I should do something about them?

As an aside, remember that currently I have the little primary boost air jet at the bottom center front of the firebox just inside the door 100% blocked with foil. Is it possible that on a full load, once it really starts to take off, that the draft is too high as a result of that? What I'm thinking is that with the air control closed 100% it creates a stronger vacuum to suck the air in and so it pulls harder than if the air control is more open, yes? If so, then would it make sense that having the air control closed 100% AND the primary boost blocked would result in too much vacuum effect? This is very counter-intutive to me and so that actually may mean its correct. Would feel better if someone who understands this could comment.

 

[EbS-P]

Update,

My dealer contacted Regency and they responded that: "We would be looking for an air leak in the insert.
The top of our wood stoves, on high burn, can reach 800-900° but if the top is glowing red, shut it down and search for the breach.”

Hmmmm well my stove reaches 800-900° STT on low burn. Guess that really isn't good. So today I took out all the secondary air tubes and baffle pieces and stuck my head in there with a flashlight and looked, and looked... did not see any air leaks or suspect weldings. I did notice that there are two little holes on either side, right before the secondary air tube that is furthest to the back of the stove. I consider that perhaps I should block these with magnets or something. But they are very little. They are also clearly made to be there on purpose.

I still like the idea of installing a key damper but waiting on that till the dealer and/or Regency has had their full say of trouble-shooting ideas for me to do. Here's a photo of the holes I found (these are the ones on the back right side.) Do you guys think I should do something about them?

As an aside, remember that currently I have the little primary boost air jet at the bottom center front of the firebox just inside the door 100% blocked with foil. Is it possible that on a full load, once it really starts to take off, that the draft is too high as a result of that? What I'm thinking is that with the air control closed 100% it creates a stronger vacuum to suck the air in and so it pulls harder than if the air control is more open, yes? If so, then would it make sense that having the air control closed 100% AND the primary boost blocked would result in too much vacuum effect? This is very counter-intutive to me and so that actually may mean its correct. Would feel better if someone who understands this could comment. View attachment 337329

The vacuum / draft pressure is so low blocking the hole won’t increase pressure IMO. I tried to block my secondary air intake with a snake of foil into the bottom of a raging hot stove. It didn’t reduce temps that much. Maybe it kept them from climbing more.

I found this week packing really tight E/W have me a more controlled burn than N/S.

 

[stoveliker]

You are confusing the vacuum you draw with the amount of air that flows and feeds the fire.

The chimney draws hence the stove is at a lower pressure, this results in air being sucked in through the inlet. Those inlets and piping have a certain resistance to flow.

Blocking some will result in a higher total resistance and to less air for the fire (it's like sucking on 3 straws and then closing one off - the same sucking power will result in less flow).


Did they say how and where to check for leaks?

I agree any leak should be closed. But it may not be a leak that's the issue..
The other way to decrease the air flow to the fire is to install a damper.

 

[corona5k1635]

Ah, thanks for those replies. EW loading definitely slows things down, just never packed a full load in the firebox that way since I am nervous about logs rolling into the front glass. @stoveliker thanks for that distinction of air for combustion versus vaccuum and how that works. I was getting confused. So my Regency dealer first recommended that I look for air leaks in the body of the stove inside the top right and left corners. Seeing nothing out of sorts really there, dealer asked some very pointed questions about the air control rod. Like, is it loose? Does it move or seem to fall when I pull it out all the way? Well, the answer is YES. The air control rod is very mobile. Not only does it slide left/right as it is supposed to, but it also is slightly at an angle outwards towards the room, and can easily be pulled forward to be even more at an angle. Anyway, short story is...the air control rod may not be shutting all the way all the time. It does work to the extent that I see a difference between wide open and different degrees of closure. But if it is not aligned correctly (its at an angle of more or less degrees) then even when it is pushed in all the way to the right "closed" position, perhaps it is still open (even more than the small bit that the stove is default factory set to remain open I mean) ...right?

 

[begreen]

The dealer needs to send out a qualified technician to examine the stove. If the air control is the problem, it is a safety issue that should be covered under warranty. They can not expect the homeowner to determine the cause and solution.

 

[corona5k1635]

OK that is good to know. Will wait to see what the dealer says in response to the situation because he said that he would send the information to Regency and get info on next steps from them..

 

[Ctwoodtick]

OK that is good to know. Will wait to see what the dealer says in response to the situation because he said that he would send the information to Regency and get info on next steps from them..

once the issue is resolved, I think you will like the stove. I run a Jotul insert at the house and have the freestanding 2450 at a camp in Maine. I’m always telling my wife that I like the regency much better.

 

[corona5k1635]

once the issue is resolved, I think you will like the stove. I run a Jotul insert at the house and have the freestanding 2450 at a camp in Maine. I’m always telling my wife that I like the regency much better.

Hey well that is good to hear!

 

[Ctwoodtick]

Hey well that is good to hear!

Once the issue is fixed, you may find that the stove is a bit of a “easy breather”. At least that was my experience and I had to adjust to it compared to my other stove. It routinely runs pretty hot on low, like maybe up to about 800, but in general, it doesn’t seem to be getting out of control too easily.

 

[corona5k1635]

Update: Dealer said Regency is covering the main air control rod plate and/or mechanism and the dealer will be sending somebody out to replace it. Will see if it is actually the issue and provides more control. I've been burning some pretty low btu wood, not sure what it is but it is very light in my hands, lighter than seasoned ash, and the STT is still hitting 850 degrees with the main air shut 100% of the way within 10 minutes of first lighting top down from a cold start. Perhaps, when they replace the air control plate or whatever I should take the opportunity to add a little bit of length to the plate so I can actually shut the air all the way. I know that there is still a sizable section that never gets closed off even when the air control is fully "shut."

 

[blades]

YES, that is true. Been that way on stoves since the late or Mid 80's ( thanks EPA). around 2000 they took away the control for the secondary air intake as well ( man I miss that) I had a stove made in AZ that still had the secondary control . That stove, about 2cf size, I could get 8hr burns with it. There was no control on the air wash system for the door glass, that was always wide open but you could close the main and the secondary and cut almost 80% of combustion air on it ( tube type secondary) I still have that stove although not in use for the last 14 years. My flue is around 25ft tall and when the wind starts howling ( i am out in farm country) it literally sucks all the heat right out of the stove ( NC 30) , I made a sliding plate to control the secondary intake on it, has helped a lot. Like the little stove the air wash system is wide open all the time.