EbS-P
Minister of Fire
I highly recommend it.
If it’s stuffed back in there with no fan that could be one contributing factor to the high temps.
Jøtul F45 V2 burn times (short) vs. runaway fires
- Thread starter firenightdance
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If it’s stuffed back in there with no fan that could be one contributing factor to the high temps.
Just a follow up, yah not much room but I'll look into the AT200.
Been turning down earlier...it's tricky, definitely helps but requires some hands-on because sometimes the fire will go out. Need to add air and it'll kick in again. I still haven't risked a mostly-full firebox but last night we were left with pretty small splits and half a box full got a little hectic but nothing near what I was seeing (~630F high temp, then settled down). Thanks for the tips everyone.
Turn down earlier, but do so in steps.
E g dial down 25% or until the flames get quiet (lazy), let it go for 5-10 mins, dial down to lazy again etc.
Turning down too much and/or too soon can make flames disappear.
E g dial down 25% or until the flames get quiet (lazy), let it go for 5-10 mins, dial down to lazy again etc.
Turning down too much and/or too soon can make flames disappear.
Still no, @Todd -
- Where are those unregulated primary boost air holes? Are they the circles below?
- And did you have a method / size of screw or bolt for blocking them?
- Do you just access them via the firebox? I can't check because my firebox is currently full of ash (oh, and flames)
![[Hearth.com] Jøtul F45 V2 burn times (short) vs. runaway fires](https://www.hearth.com/talk/data/attachments/332/332497-162a08e0f7ea72a1683118a87332bfa2.jpg?hash=X8l-5TR5nn "[Hearth.com] Jøtul F45 V2 burn times (short) vs. runaway fires")
Yes those two holes go directly up into the firebox doghouse. I just took two small screws and stuck them into the two doghouse holes. Or you could place a magnet on those bottom holes as well.
Block those holes.
That seems to always be the 1st step in these overfire situations.
That seems to always be the 1st step in these overfire situations.
Been burning so much STILL haven't blocked them but...from the inside, are they these (see arrows) or are these the main primary outlets?
Or are they inside this area, meaning I have to unbolt (those two hex bolts) of the "inspection cover" to access them? I'm looking at the manual and even the exploded parts view is rather confusing.
Sorry, I'm just idiot-proofing before I go looking for screws...because I can be an idiot!
Yeah @Todd has same stove as me so just confirming, because it would suck to actually block the primary. The exploded view is pretty weird, I can't even find a part that has that triangular area. I'm used to reading parts diagrams and schematics. Maybe I'm just getting blind in my old age!
Yes those are the unregulated boost air holes that I blocked with screws.
To anyone reading this thread with my issues or my stove...yep, block the holes. Today was the first time I had the presence of mind to find some small stainless steel screws to block the boost holes while the stove was cold.
The F45 V2 is whole different animal now. Gentle and easy to control...the primary air lever is practically like an accelerator/brake pedal now, and we got to secondary land without burning through our fuel too quickly. This is literally the second time I've dared fill up most of the firebox...I did it once before and STT got to 860 before I gave up and opened the door to cool everything down. This time? We're on hour 2.5 of a burn, cruising at 480-530. No runaway period, no wasted wood. If anything had to open the air a bit to get the temp up. Amazing!
The F45 V2 is whole different animal now. Gentle and easy to control...the primary air lever is practically like an accelerator/brake pedal now, and we got to secondary land without burning through our fuel too quickly. This is literally the second time I've dared fill up most of the firebox...I did it once before and STT got to 860 before I gave up and opened the door to cool everything down. This time? We're on hour 2.5 of a burn, cruising at 480-530. No runaway period, no wasted wood. If anything had to open the air a bit to get the temp up. Amazing!
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Sounds great! Glad that helped. I wish manufactures would give you more control over these unregulated boost air as well as the secondary air. Probably can’t be done due to EPA regs.
I seem to remember the older Jotul stove designs had 2 air controls. One for startup(boost) and then the primary control. I would be interested to see if anyone has jerry rigged a control for the boost holes... cmon Todd*cough*
You first lol! My stove works great with the boost air blocked. I din’t see any need to open them back up.
The secondary air is another story. When temps dip below 20 it helps to block the secondary air a bit.
How do you block secondary air? Or is that on your 602?
I was in honeymoon mode a bit with that last post...we've still had some hot fires, but it's eminently controllable most of the time. When they get hot it's a "ride it out" situation and generally tops out at 700F STT (usually more like 670-680) and not for too long, unlike my quick-to-800F+ fires of the past. This usually happens on a reload...
Besides shutting down early - or almost instantly with a hot coal bed - do you do anything special with the coals on reload? I tend to try move them all to the front if I can and it doesn't make the bed too high, leaving it as empty as I can in the back. If the whole floor is coals, the splits tend to want to all light up at once.
You have to drop your bottom heat shield to access the secondary air hole towards the back of the stove. I use a magnet to block about 25% of that hole during cold weather.
I do the same with the coals and rake them all forward for a new reload. The size of the coal bed can make a big difference on when to shut her down. Also how large and tightly packed your splits are.
I do the same with the coals and rake them all forward for a new reload. The size of the coal bed can make a big difference on when to shut her down. Also how large and tightly packed your splits are.
Yes definitely on the splits. You can see the air takes a route up through them via the primary and the more complex it is, the more controllable. I find when very tightly packed it's even possible to smother the fire if you shut down too early. This is a totally new concept after 1.5 years of those damn boost holes makes everything burn so fast.
