The Regency CI2600 & CI2700 operation thread

[Wolves1]

Has anyone noticed a smoke smell from the fan when they lower the air control? If I keep the air control half open or more I generally do not smell any smoke, but if I have close off the air I sometimes get a very faint smoke smell in the air coming out of the fan. It is so faint that you only smell it when in the room with the insert.

My guess is when you cut it all the way down you have a weak draft, just open the air a little more. It’s probably happening when there is no flame. I don’t get the smell in my insert but I do get it in my stove shorter chimney then my insert.

 

[vetrano]

My guess is when you cut it all the way down you have a weak draft, just open the air a little more. It’s probably happening when there is no flame. I don’t get the smell in my insert but I do get it in my stove shorter chimney then my insert.

It has only happened a couple of times, but I think there is either no flame or very little flame. The smell is extremely faint and I only smell it if I am in the direct path of the fan air. The smoke alarm in the room has never gone off due to it. Opening up the air does fix the problem.

I did pull the stove out in the off season and found that the exhaust is not exactly air tight. The flue collar sits on the stove and there is no noticeable gap, but there is also no gasket to seal it. Also the bypass rod goes through a hole in the flue collar that is also not air tight. I guess is air is cut off too much and draft is not strong enough the fan is able to pull a small amount of the smoke out of the flue collar.

 

[Wolves1]

It has only happened a couple of times, but I think there is either no flame or very little flame. The smell is extremely faint and I only smell it if I am in the direct path of the fan air. The smoke alarm in the room has never gone off due to it. Opening up the air does fix the problem.

I did pull the stove out in the off season and found that the exhaust is not exactly air tight. The flue collar sits on the stove and there is no noticeable gap, but there is also no gasket to seal it. Also the bypass rod goes through a hole in the flue collar that is also not air tight. I guess is air is cut off too much and draft is not strong enough the fan is able to pull a small amount of the smoke out of the flue collar.

That is exactly what’s happening no big deal.

 

[vetrano]

For anyone who is looking for a simple way to clean their glass, I started using Goo Gone Oven and Grill cleaner after a recommendation from a friend. It is in a pump bottle. It sprays as a foam that clings on to the glass. Let it sit for 5-10 minutes and everything wipes off, even the most caked on creosote. I then use wet paper towels until there is no more residue of the cleaner.

In the past I tried ash and water, wood stove glass cleaner, and a CLR Grease Magnet (which worked, but only after soaking for 20-30 minutes which is difficult as it is a liquid). The oven cleaner is the easiest.

 

[vetrano]

I just woke up 13 hours after loading the stove and the fan was still running which is my longest run. The air coming out was warm, not hot. The glass was completely covered in a light yellowish soot that easily wiped off with a dry paper towel. The corners were covered in the thick black stuff that doesnt wipe off.

I am wondering if running like this is bad for my chimney liner. Is it getting covered in the same soot as my glass. I know the catalyst should fix that, but at some point in the night the yemperature dropped below 500 and when I got up it was just below 200.

Also does anyone know why the manual says not to run the fan for the first e0 minutes after loading the stove. I am able to get it above 500 in 10 to 15 .inutes on reloads and usually turn on the fan once the catalyst lites off. Is this ok?

 

[Wolves1]

I just woke up 13 hours after loading the stove and the fan was still running which is my longest run. The air coming out was warm, not hot. The glass was completely covered in a light yellowish soot that easily wiped off with a dry paper towel. The corners were covered in the thick black stuff that doesnt wipe off.

I am wondering if running like this is bad for my chimney liner. Is it getting covered in the same soot as my glass. I know the catalyst should fix that, but at some point in the night the yemperature dropped below 500 and when I got up it was just below 200.

Also does anyone know why the manual says not to run the fan for the first e0 minutes after loading the stove. I am able to get it above 500 in 10 to 15 .inutes on reloads and usually turn on the fan once the catalyst lites off. Is this ok?

Yes perfect.

 

[griam01]

How long does everyone’s cat glow orange? Mine does for several hours but I noticed once my temp starts going down after awhile the cat isn’t lit anymore but the temp could still be 600-700.

 

[vetrano]

How long does everyone’s cat glow orange? Mine does for several hours but I noticed once my temp starts going down after awhile the cat isn’t lit anymore but the temp could still be 600-700.

My insert operates the same. Last year I read that the cat is actively working as long as the temperature is above 500, but I'm not sure how true this is. Your concern is the reason I asked if running the insert low enough for the glass to get dirty will cause the chimney liner to build up with creosote.

 

[griam01]

My insert operates the same. Last year I read that the cat is actively working as long as the temperature is above 500, but I'm not sure how true this is. Your concern is the reason I asked if running the insert low enough for the glass to get dirty will cause the chimney liner to build up with creosote.

I found this:

https://www.firecatcombustors.com/Articles.asp?ID=250#Working

Some stoves are equipped with a combustor view port. It should be noted that the combustor glows during the first 20 — 30% of the burn cycle, when the catalyst is receiving the most smoke and burning at a high temperature. The combustor can reach 1000°F and produce a glow. The combustor does not have to glow to be working. As less smoke is present to burn, the combustor temperature drops and the glow will cease. It is suggested that visual checking NOT be a method of determining combustor functionality.

And a few down:

Does the combustor have to 'glow' before it is working?

This is a misconception. A catalyst can glow during certain stages of combustion. The determination that a catalyst is not working simply because it doesn't glow is inaccurate. During the low burn cycle, when the catalyst is doing the bulk of its work, it usually does not glow. Also, extremely dry wood (oak, ash, etc...) can burn clean enough not to produce a glow in the converter.

 

[vetrano]

The combustor does not have to glow to be working. As less smoke is present to burn, the combustor temperature drops and the glow will cease.

I wonder at what point does the combustor stop working. Is it when the temperature drops below 500?

Does an increased amount of creosote start to deposit on chimney liner at that point, especially if the air intake was adjusted to allow the wood to smoulder to increase burn time?

 

[Fieldzy41]

So frustrated with my stove. Just purchased in october and have tried a lot of recommendations from this forum. Any idea if the manufacturer provides help on these issues or where to start?

 

[Wolves1]

What is it that is frustrating you?

 

[vetrano]

Wolves is right... Describe your issues and we may be able to help.

However to answer your question I did have an initial issue with my insert the I called Regency about. They provided a little info, but informed me that the proper channels are to go through your dealer. My dealer was able to get the warranty parts I needed.

 

[tadmaz]

Don't mean to hijack the thread, but could a CI2600 owner please measure their inner firebox dimensions and report back? Thanks!!

 

[tadmaz]

Don't mean to hijack the thread, but could a CI2600 owner please measure their inner firebox dimensions and report back? Thanks!!

I contacted Regency and they refused to reveal this "proprietary" information. If anyone would like to spite them, please proceed

 

[griam01]

I contacted Regency and they refused to reveal this "proprietary" information. If anyone would like to spite them, please proceed

Shouldn’t they be in the user guide which is posted on their site. I’m burning full time right now so it’s not cool enough for me to measure currently.

 

[tadmaz]

Shouldn’t they be in the user guide which is posted on their site. I’m burning full time right now so it’s not cool enough for me to measure currently.

I have never seen a guide that has the inner firebox measurements, it's always the outer measurements for determining if the insert will fit in the fireplace. I think it's important to know the measurements and not just the cu.ft. and max log length.

 

[griam01]

I have never seen a guide that has the inner firebox measurements, it's always the outer measurements for determining if the insert will fit in the fireplace. I think it's important to know the measurements and not just the cu.ft. and max log length.

Ok here you go. These are with the firebrick in place. I cleaned it out since we had a day of 60 degree weather. Hope it makes sense. I am not an artist.

 

[griam01]

For anyone who is looking for a simple way to clean their glass, I started using Goo Gone Oven and Grill cleaner after a recommendation from a friend. It is in a pump bottle. It sprays as a foam that clings on to the glass. Let it sit for 5-10 minutes and everything wipes off, even the most caked on creosote. I then use wet paper towels until there is no more residue of the cleaner.

In the past I tried ash and water, wood stove glass cleaner, and a CLR Grease Magnet (which worked, but only after soaking for 20-30 minutes which is difficult as it is a liquid). The oven cleaner is the easiest.

Thank you for this! I have tried a number of things too. Goo gone works the best!

 

[tadmaz]

Ok here you go. These are with the firebrick in place. I cleaned it out since we had a day of 60 degree weather. Hope it makes sense. I am not an artist.

View attachment 220526

Thank you! Can you clarify what the 13 and 16 inches are on the right?

 

[griam01]

Thank you! Can you clarify what the 13 and 16 inches are on the right?

The depth. 13 from the back to the lip and 16 from the back to the door. When I say lip there is s bit of an edge where the air is and then about 3 inches more to the door. I do smaller logs in the bottom and then longer logs on top of that since I removed the andirons and will run the wood near the glass.

 

[tadmaz]

Does anyone have the catalytic combustor temperature monitor? Worth it? May be pulling the trigger soon and some quotes have this an an additional line item, $191, some quotes do not mention it. In the manual looks like you'd at least have to take the faceplate off to install, so I think it's best to get it done during install.

 

[griam01]

Does anyone have the catalytic combustor temperature monitor? Worth it? May be pulling the trigger soon and some quotes have this an an additional line item, $191, some quotes do not mention it. In the manual looks like you'd at least have to take the faceplate off to install, so I think it's best to get it done during install.

Mine came with the unit. Definitely worth it so you know what temp to shut the bypass at. You do have to take the faceplate off and drill a hole in the top to get it in. Make sure it is in the proper amount or your readings won’t be accurate. Mine was about 1/2 inch not in far enough and it made a HUGE difference.

 

[vetrano]

Regency started including the temperature monitor at some point in 2016. See their website that lists it as an included feature. The dealer in question may be selling an old unit. I would pass on the old units based on the issues that early models had (unless the discount is substantial).

 

[Wolves1]

It is a must with this stove.