The Regency CI2600 & CI2700 operation thread

[Wolves1]

View attachment 215869 Hey folks. I’m a new owner of this unit. It’s burns nice and hot, especially with Cat engaged. I am having the same issue as many others. The glass gets black easily. After every overnight burn i wake up to a 40% black glass. Sometimes more like 75%. Seems worse when I turn on the cat and turn down the intake airflow. And cleaning it is not as easy as previous stoves. Seems to stick more. Anyone have suggestions about how to clean glass better in this unit? Especially when hot. I want to burn for days straight and don’t want to wait for the unit to cool down before cleaning.

The main question is wood moisture, if there is any piece of wood that has over 20% moisture after split that will cause blacking of the glass. The other thing that will add to the blacking is if you cut the air to soon. Also if you cut the air all the way and the fan is on that cools your stove and will also blacken the glass, just open the air a bit more. I also found that when you start filling the stove and burn 24/7 when temps drop that will cause a stronger draft and the glass will stay clear. It is a cat stove and the bottom corners will get black but you should still have about 75 to 80% clear viewing.

 

[AngelesCrest]

Can anyone tell me what cat temp probe to buy for this stove?

 

[Wolves1]

Can anyone tell me what cat temp probe to buy for this stove?

http://www.condar.com/watchman.html
This should be perfect

 

[Thisguyloveswood]

Hey wolves and everyone’s else. Been burning my CI 2600 for about a month now. Absolutely love it. Sometimes 6 hours heat output sometimes 12 hours. My wood is all 3-5” 18-20” splits, so I imagine I would have more success with 7/8 pieces opposed to 3/4 I am currently getting if I cut them 12-13” and load N-S. Anyway, all your help in the past has helped me with this stove, just the Manual wasn’t. Near enough. Question - after the install the door looked a bit crooked. Very slight, but I could tell none-the less. It was the only way the installer could do it to prevent door from swinging open by itself when not locked. Now I’m not sure if it’s the cause, but I have a hard time burning the wood on that side during the first 3 hours stage. And the window always gets seriously black there (bottom right side). Do you think this could be because there is a problem with a leak? I’m looking for options before I call the company back. I know the dollar bill test, and taking out the gaskets...but the whole left side where gaskets are is perfect. Any suggestions?

Thanks. Hope everyone had a happy and health Thanksgiving.

 

[Wolves1]

Hey wolves and everyone’s else. Been burning my CI 2600 for about a month now. Absolutely love it. Sometimes 6 hours heat output sometimes 12 hours. My wood is all 3-5” 18-20” splits, so I imagine I would have more success with 7/8 pieces opposed to 3/4 I am currently getting if I cut them 12-13” and load N-S. Anyway, all your help in the past has helped me with this stove, just the Manual wasn’t. Near enough. Question - after the install the door looked a bit crooked. Very slight, but I could tell none-the less. It was the only way the installer could do it to prevent door from swinging open by itself when not locked. Now I’m not sure if it’s the cause, but I have a hard time burning the wood on that side during the first 3 hours stage. And the window always gets seriously black there (bottom right side). Do you think this could be because there is a problem with a leak? I’m looking for options before I call the company back. I know the dollar bill test, and taking out the gaskets...but the whole left side where gaskets are is perfect. Any suggestions?

Thanks. Hope everyone had a happy and health Thanksgiving.

I’ve never seen blacking of glass like that on one side and the other perfectly clean usually you get black on both bottom corner and far less then that. Check the right side of the door I see some discoloring there on the Frame next to the door. It may just be the picture.

 

[Wolves1]

Also the top right corner.

 

[Thisguyloveswood]

I’ve never seen blacking of glass like that on one side and the other perfectly clean usually you get black on both bottom corner and far less then that. Check the right side of the door I see some discoloring there on the Frame next to the door. It may just be the picture.

No wolves, you are right. During install noticed it was scratched during shipping. They had black metallic paint, but clearly a different finish. I decided not to complain too much since I got the complete job for $4100 includes everything but the SS loner and chimney cap. I purchased those on my own.

 

[Thisguyloveswood]

Also the top right corner.

That’s just the pic. Top right corner is always fine. Here is the morning after (9.5 hours and it was putting out 330 degree heat, could have gotten another hour or so maybe). It is the bottom right. Few more pics to show you spacing of door.

Not sure if you can tell...but I dez fifer is flush both sides on top, but there is a small gap on the bottom of that right side.

 

[Wolves1]

That’s just the pic. Top right corner is always fine. Here is the morning after (9.5 hours and it was putting out 330 degree heat, could have gotten another hour or so maybe). It is the bottom right. Few more pics to show you spacing of door.

Not sure if you can tell...but I dez fifer is flush both sides on top, but there is a small gap on the bottom of that right side.

As long as the gasket is sealed shouldn’t matter. I’m not liking the look of the gasket on the side middle, looks like it’s missing some fluff. Do the test with a paper not a dollar cut it in to a thin strip and place it right in the middle right side. The dollar may be to wide and the gasket on the top and bottom of that one spot I’m looking may stop it from sliding. Do you see the spot I’m talking about?

 

[Fieldzy41]

I have been reading through the threads on the CI2600 and I keep seeing Cat temps around 1200. I can never get mine that high! Is it because my bypass won’t go more than photo?

 

[Wolves1]

View attachment 216553 I have been reading through the threads on the CI2600 and I keep seeing Cat temps around 1200. I can never get mine that high! Is it because my bypass won’t go more than photo?

What kind of temps are you getting? Check inside that the bypass closes completely.

 

[Fieldzy41]

What kind of temps are you getting? Check inside that the bypass closes completely.

I’m getting mid 700 when close the airflow 3/4 of the way. I’ll have to check to see if it closes. I’m getting good heat output just not burn time

 

[Wolves1]

I’m getting mid 700 when close the airflow 3/4 of the way. I’ll have to check to see if it closes. I’m getting good heat output just not burn time

When did you purchase your stove. If it was one of the early stoves did you get an adapter?

 

[Fieldzy41]

When did you purchase your stove. If it was one of the early stoves did you get an adapter?

I just purchased it last month

 

[Wolves1]

I just purchased it last month

Is your wood split and under 20% in the middle?

 

[Fieldzy41]

Is your wood split and under 20% in the middle?

I’m at 24 and it’s all split

 

[Wolves1]

Is that 24% reading after you take a log split it and take a read as soon as you split it?

 

[Fieldzy41]

Yes exactly

 

[Wolves1]

The moisture is a little on the high side but shouldn’t prevent temps higher then 700. Definitely with a mirror check the bypass.

 

[Fieldzy41]

The moisture is a little on the high side but shouldn’t prevent temps higher then 700. Definitely with a mirror check the bypass.

So just to clarify that opening should close 100%?

 

[Wolves1]

So just to clarify that opening should close 100%?

Yes

 

[Thisguyloveswood]

As long as the gasket is sealed shouldn’t matter. I’m not liking the look of the gasket on the side middle, looks like it’s missing some fluff. Do the test with a paper not a dollar cut it in to a thin strip and place it right in the middle right side. The dollar may be to wide and the gasket on the top and bottom of that one spot I’m looking may stop it from sliding. Do you see the spot I’m talking about?

Yes wolves, thank you. Didn’t see this yesterday, and will try tonight. Great suggestion.

 

[vetrano]

Not sure if you can tell...but I dez fifer is flush both sides on top, but there is a small gap on the bottom of that right side.

I suspect you have the same issue I had which causes the door to open if not latched... The hinge bracket on the right side is defective. The "hinges" (holes in the bracket that the door sits in) stick out from the stove by different amounts. The dealer had Regency send me a new door at first and then another bracket, but it had the same defect. In the end I installed shims behind the bracket so both holes stick out the same amount which allowed the door to be installed straight.

 

[Thisguyloveswood]

I suspect you have the same issue I had which causes the door to open if not latched... The hinge bracket on the right side is defective. The "hinges" (holes in the bracket that the door sits in) stick out from the stove by different amounts. The dealer had Regency send me a new door at first and then another bracket, but it had the same defect. In the end I installed shims behind the bracket so both holes stick out the same amount which allowed the door to be installed straight.

Thanks Vetrano! I don’t have any experience with shims, is this a job you recommend doing myself or calling up installer. They are 45 miles away, so I’d like to avoid bothering them. Did you notice a difference with burn times or less blackening on the glass then before when the door was crooked? Would you mind taking a pic of your side with the shims and the hinges so I can attempt to replicate? Wolves I’m trying a smaller piece of paper tonight and will let you know if it slides out. Funny thing...door passed dollar bill test when new, but it’s sliding out now. I’m gonna remove a washer to tighten up the seal. Maybe that will help extend he burn times.

Appreciate all the feedback crew!

 

[vetrano]

Did you notice a difference with burn times or less blackening on the glass then before when the door was crooked? Would you mind taking a pic of your side with the shims and the hinges so I can attempt to replicate?

Here is what I did:

1. take the door off
2. Measure distance from face of insert to each hole on the bracket. If I recall correctly I found a difference of several mm.
3. Loosen the 2 bolts that hold the bracket in place.
4. Use folded aluminum foil as a shim behind the bracket to make the holes that the door rests in stick out the same amount at the top and bottom.

I had a few other ci2600 owners without the problem measure their bracket and they both had equal distances between the top and bottom holes. I suspect regency's quality control on this part is not very good as the replacement part I was sent is also not aligned, but it is by a different amount from the original bracket.

Fixing it has not made any noticable difference in burn time or the blackening of the glass, but makes the insert much safer as the door won't open on its own when not layched at start up.