The Regency CI2600 & CI2700 operation thread
- Thread starter Heizer
- Start date
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I've tested every piece I've put in. All 15% or lower. Can I blame hubbie for putting in wet pieces? I could.... but I tested a bunch of pieces from that seasoned pile outside and all were 15% or under.
I get the same and think it is expected given the air is supplied from the centre.
My glass looks like that too! I hate it! Bugs me!! But i'm loving the heat! If you find the solution, please let me know! It's really warm here outside, so that's a factor too. Really don't want to clean the glass every day!! Can i really use oven cleaner to clean it? The installer told me to buy special stuff at a stove shop.
Wolves1
Minister of Fire
Use a paper towel wet the towel dip it in the ash and start cleaning in a circular motion works great.
edyit
Minister of Fire
on testing for moisture, bring a piece inside, let it sit overnight to get to room temperature, then split it in half and test for moisture on the center of the freshly split face to get an accurate reading.
Hi Folks! I finally decided to get the ci2600 and it's working pretty well. Lots of heat which is great... the blower fan isn't kicking on automatically. Has anyone had issues with this? I've let it sit for over half an hour... I've got it up to 1100 degrees and still nothing. Is the sensor covered with old Ash or something? Does anyone know where the sensor is? Thanks for all of the advice so far!!
I usually manually turn it on after that bypass has been closed for a while and the temperatures are steady. This is because i found it takes a long time to start like you did. I find if I later switch it to auto it keeps running until the unit cools.
Hi, I got an answer from Regency that I believe is worthwhile sharing.
"If the glass is getting dirty I would look at the following :
-The bypass and primary damper on the appliance should be fully open for the first 30 to 45 minutes to establish a good draft up the chimney
or the catalyst has reached an temperature of 500 degrees F prior to the bypass being closed
-Bypass and primary damper should only be closed when draft has been established, the firebox has been reloaded fully and damper is closed
after the fire has reestablished itself after 15 minutes
-If damper is fully closed the fan must be turned off
-The wood should be well seasoned and not wet.
-Chimney height is a minimum of 12 feet and is 5.5 or 6 inches in diameter
-Gaskets are sealing the door correctly. The door gasket should always be checked periodically to ensure it is sealing. If it isn't sealing,
the door catch/latch can be adjusted. If air ever enters from the door area this would eliminate the air wash system as air is now entering
where it shouldn't be.
On your other question, Combustion air enters the fireplace from below and goes into the primary air opening which is located on the front
bottom of the fireplace inside.
When bypass and primary air is closed the air enters thru the channel which is located at either side of the appliance inside of the door and
into the air wash location allowing air to flow in front of the glass to keep it clean."
I am not sure what this is about -If damper is fully closed the fan must be turned off
Yesterday I had planned to get my chimney extended, from 15' to 20', but due to bad weather they could do it. Next attempt is on Monday. Hope this will improve my draft.
"If the glass is getting dirty I would look at the following :
-The bypass and primary damper on the appliance should be fully open for the first 30 to 45 minutes to establish a good draft up the chimney
or the catalyst has reached an temperature of 500 degrees F prior to the bypass being closed
-Bypass and primary damper should only be closed when draft has been established, the firebox has been reloaded fully and damper is closed
after the fire has reestablished itself after 15 minutes
-If damper is fully closed the fan must be turned off
-The wood should be well seasoned and not wet.
-Chimney height is a minimum of 12 feet and is 5.5 or 6 inches in diameter
-Gaskets are sealing the door correctly. The door gasket should always be checked periodically to ensure it is sealing. If it isn't sealing,
the door catch/latch can be adjusted. If air ever enters from the door area this would eliminate the air wash system as air is now entering
where it shouldn't be.
On your other question, Combustion air enters the fireplace from below and goes into the primary air opening which is located on the front
bottom of the fireplace inside.
When bypass and primary air is closed the air enters thru the channel which is located at either side of the appliance inside of the door and
into the air wash location allowing air to flow in front of the glass to keep it clean."
I am not sure what this is about -If damper is fully closed the fan must be turned off
Yesterday I had planned to get my chimney extended, from 15' to 20', but due to bad weather they could do it. Next attempt is on Monday. Hope this will improve my draft.
Thanks for that heizer.
I also wonder why they say the fan must be off when the damper is closed. How much do you need to open the air to allow the fan to be on?
I know that my door gasket fails the paper bill test in one all spot but didn't think too much about it. I'm going to try taking out a shim to see if the air wash improves like they suggest and will report back in a few days.
I also wonder why they say the fan must be off when the damper is closed. How much do you need to open the air to allow the fan to be on?
I know that my door gasket fails the paper bill test in one all spot but didn't think too much about it. I'm going to try taking out a shim to see if the air wash improves like they suggest and will report back in a few days.
I removed a shim a few days ago and didn't see any improvement. Curious to know what you see.
This morning I change the loading direction to North/South and this does have an influence on my glass. Not that it is good now, but it looked like I got some air wash pushing downwards in front of the glass. Next step is to shorten the length of my logs, so that they are more than 1/2 inch away from it ;-)
I seem to be having the opposite problem. My blower seems to be on continuously! I'll wake up to hot coals in the a.m. and the blower is still going. The air it's pushing is still hot, so maybe I shouldn't complain (?)
Thanks for all of the info folks! Very helpful! I'm also very puzzled about the fan being off when the damper is closed?
I've also had lots of blackening on my glass this week but it's been the first week of operating it so I didn't get the stove too hot for the first 4 or 5 fires (to let the paint cure). I'm going to clean the glass today, and see what happens. I still haven't waited for more than 30 minutes for the fan to come on so I'll try that this weekend. I want to make sure the blower is ok as it's brand new.
The stove has been very effective at heating my home as well... I wasn't planning on making it the primary heat source as we have a good Geothermal system; however, it's an older house with LOTS of windows so the geothermal system has to run most of the day (During Peak Times here in Canada)... it's brought my daily consumption of electricity from around $8.50 down to $3.50 . Thanks again!
I've also had lots of blackening on my glass this week but it's been the first week of operating it so I didn't get the stove too hot for the first 4 or 5 fires (to let the paint cure). I'm going to clean the glass today, and see what happens. I still haven't waited for more than 30 minutes for the fan to come on so I'll try that this weekend. I want to make sure the blower is ok as it's brand new.
The stove has been very effective at heating my home as well... I wasn't planning on making it the primary heat source as we have a good Geothermal system; however, it's an older house with LOTS of windows so the geothermal system has to run most of the day (During Peak Times here in Canada)... it's brought my daily consumption of electricity from around $8.50 down to $3.50 . Thanks again!
Blower Fan Off?? Hi again! I tried the advice of turning off the blower fan and noticed something odd: When the damper is open, the blower fan helps keep the temperatures higher in my new CI2600; however, when I close the damper all the way, the blower fan causes the temperatures to drop significantly.
I turned the blower fan off after reading the post above from Heizer... I've noticed the temps are now hovering in the 1100 to 1200 degrees F without the blower being on. I also did not notice any extra blackening this morning on the windows which I was afraid would happen without the fan being on. I'm going to clean my glass later on today I hope and try this again tonight for the overnight burn.
Has anyone else noticed the temps being better with the damper closed AND the fan off? I'm wondering what will generate more heat for my house though too... I definitely got a longer and consistent burn this time around with the blower off and damper closed which surprised me.
I turned the blower fan off after reading the post above from Heizer... I've noticed the temps are now hovering in the 1100 to 1200 degrees F without the blower being on. I also did not notice any extra blackening this morning on the windows which I was afraid would happen without the fan being on. I'm going to clean my glass later on today I hope and try this again tonight for the overnight burn.
Has anyone else noticed the temps being better with the damper closed AND the fan off? I'm wondering what will generate more heat for my house though too... I definitely got a longer and consistent burn this time around with the blower off and damper closed which surprised me.
A running fan should not cause the temperature to increase regardless of the damper position. I was having a similar issue and ended up finding that the flue collar was not properly seated to the insert during installation. That has been fixed, but I haven't had a chance to confirm if it fixed the issue with my fan increasing the temperature yet.
I would expect the indicated temperature to be higher when the fan is off. This is because the temperature is of the insert (the outlet of the catalytic combustor). Running fan will remove more heat from the insert (and transfer it to the room) and therefore should cause the temperature of the insert to be lower.
It is good to know if the fan off prevents the glass from getting black, but it defeats the practical purpose of the insert as you will not extract as much heat into your house. Did you find that your house and especially the room with the insert were not as warm with the fan off?
griam01
Member
Here is my burn about 40 mins after reload, damper closed at about 650 and air 1/4 open. Temp is 1150. Sorry about the dog.
I closed the air to about 1/8 open and here is what I have now. Temp dropped to 1100 but is back at 1150.
Which burn is preferred for optimal operation? Just want to make sure I am aiming for the correct burn.
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I closed the air to about 1/8 open and here is what I have now. Temp dropped to 1100 but is back at 1150.
Which burn is preferred for optimal operation? Just want to make sure I am aiming for the correct burn.
Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
I used auto mode on the fan and it stays on even when the damper is closed. I wake up to tiny embers, with the fan is still on, though the air it's pushing is hot.
What position is the damper supposed to be in for an overnight burn??????
I've been pushing it all the way to the right, and even after just 6 hrs I'm left with nothing but tiny embers and I struggle to get a good fire going again in the a.m.
What position is the damper supposed to be in for an overnight burn??????
I've been pushing it all the way to the right, and even after just 6 hrs I'm left with nothing but tiny embers and I struggle to get a good fire going again in the a.m.
Mine just failed the dollar bill door seal test!
I think the door seal needs to be adjusted, that's why I'm getting blackened glass! Annoyed the installer didn't check this for $1900!! Calling him now
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griam01
Member
Mine just failed the dollar bill door seal test!
I think the door seal needs to be adjusted, that's why I'm getting blackened glass! Annoyed the installer didn't check this for $1900!! Calling him now
I'm trying to determine if you have a newer or older model of this stove than I do. Mine doesn't have the washers it has plates to remove. I purchased mine in January 2016. From reading the previous long thread on this stove there were a lot of changes made.
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griam01
Member
Here is the latest (updated 12/2016) manual online with Regency and it shows the plates (shims) that I have on mine on page 38.. https://assets.regency-fire.com/get...-8dc7-ea4c2236d9df/CI2600-English-Manual.aspx
While I just had mine installed, it's a floor model from 2014. You probably have the newer version.
FYI, I posted a thread a couple weeks ago about the different versions of the Regency ci2600. I got some information from the manufacturer directly about what the different models have and the changes that were made. If you slide out the fan enclosure at the bottom, there's a tag there inside that tells you what year it was manufactured .
griam01
Member
My manufacturer date is January 2016 S/N starts with 429
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Here's what Joe from regency service emailed me.
Since the very early CI2600 inserts there have been a couple of
upgrades/updates.
The first was from serial number 1192. This was the restrictor, though
helpful, not overly significant.
So if the unit in the showroom has a serial number after this, the
restrictor is in place.
Secondly, if the inside top of the firebox is a full cast iron top, it
is the current model. If it has a steel top, with a cast iron ovalized
ring at the flue collar inside, it is the older version.
These are not interchangeable.
It is recommended NOT to use Bio-bricks in this insert.
I hope this helps.
Joe
Mine is a mid issue model. Not 1 serial #. But also not the newest version with the full cast iron top inside.
