Dissapointed in New Blaze King King

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There is not much lift on that flue pipe from the stove top to the chimney, if need be can the timble entry into the chimney be higher up with a plug and cement sealing the actual one ? What did your tech say on this particular item ?

Didn't get much beyond the discussions of aprox what the insulated Stainless chimney would cost. I didn't think to ask, either. We mostly covered pretty much the same as we have here, flue temps, draft, wood, and insulated chimney pipe.

Cheers
Trev
 
Trev,

Maybe you missed this question, but I was still wondering if those pictures of the stove were taken while it was burning, with a full load of wood in it.
 
Looks like trev is gone

Nope. Trev is around.

Trev has stuff that also needs to be done, besides looking for input from the web.

Like chasing down parts, tools, etc., helping a neighbor, feeding sheep, and actually spending some time with the Mrs.

Trev has been wrong before, and will be again, but he thinks that he is past the worst of winter weather unless he is unlucky or guessed poorly. Any cold spells henceforth, will not likely be of long duration, or extreme temperatures.

Trev isn't gonna just duck out on those that have helped him out, even if he isn't moving as fast at some things as he would like.

Cheers
Trev
 
Thanks. I HAVE been working pretty hard at that occasionally, and will be the first to laugh at myself if I done something dumb. And I really really am way less polite in real life.

Best price locally for a manometer I was quoted $350 for. And just short of $400 for a glass door for the stove, from a guy that I found out much too late, is a BK dealer.
No local HVAC suppliers, looks like it's mail order. Question regarding a manometer install. Am I out to lunch thinking that the manometer port could be tapped into the clean out door? IIRC, it's one of Boyle's Laws that says the pressure in a system is the same throughout, yeah?
You can get an Dwyer magnehelic for under $50, though your dealer should have one if he is selling BKs. If you get one be sure the scale is in the low range of draft that the BK requires.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Used-DWYER-...048260?hash=item3ad777af44:g:9SgAAOSwLF1X2jP4[/QUOTE]
 
Nope. Trev is around.

Trev has stuff that also needs to be done, besides looking for input from the web.

Like chasing down parts, tools, etc., helping a neighbor, feeding sheep, and actually spending some time with the Mrs.

Trev has been wrong before, and will be again, but he thinks that he is past the worst of winter weather unless he is unlucky or guessed poorly. Any cold spells henceforth, will not likely be of long duration, or extreme temperatures.

Trev isn't gonna just duck out on those that have helped him out, even if he isn't moving as fast at some things as he would like.

Cheers
Trev


We are all trying to help you out. Some of us like me have missed posts cause your not the only one busy and i have been worng and will be wrong again.

It seems to me tho you had plenty of time to bash a company name.
 
Trev,

Maybe you missed this question, but I was still wondering if those pictures of the stove were taken while it was burning, with a full load of wood in it.


Were you reloading in that pic I notice the bypass is open. Also At the thimble it looks blued looks like you get some heat up the stack!
Very nice backdrop BTW!

I'm stretching to recall correctly, but I think I was just in the midst of a relight at that point after having reassembled the whole lot.

I am honestly uncertain if the pictures from outside, were taken before or after I closed the bypass.
I posted them a while later, as there was a delay getting mod approval plus a minor glitch uploading them twice.

Still not sure why they each posted twice, but maybe so the keen eyed can do the stereo vision thing. Dunno.

Last night was the first time I actually got warm enough to feel too warm, sitting close to the stove. Fan in the corner between the wood box and the stove was on, so the room here was warm. Wife wasn't. And it's not that cold outside. Freezing at night, above that in daytime, with overcast skies.

Cheers
Trev
 
Niko, stop talking and go back and read from the beginning. It's been mentioned several times he opted for an all steel door. I don't mean to be rude but how does someone expect to help if you haven't read everything?


Its pretty easy to miss posts. I read whatever i can in my spare time on my ipad. I also have never seen anyone talk about a steel replacememt instead of glass in the BK threads.

No biggy man problem solved, well at least mine is.
 
Why then not simply use a 90° instead.

Not much rise there !

View attachment 193528

Local store had no 90's, bought two 45's instead. In 2012. Would have thought a round bend 90 would flow better. So much for what I think, eh?

From the top of the stove to the center of the thimble on the wall, is 24 inches. Need to drill out my floor, or drill a new thimble in the chimney (which would also precipitate out a insulated riser off the stove at the very least), to get higher up.

Cheers
Trev
 
So moving the stove to the upstairs is out of the question? I'd move it upstairs, put in a clean out door in the basement and call it a day, oh and order the convection top and blower kit, let the heat ooze out slow and stead with the blower on low.

Yeah, pretty much out of the question.

Aside from my hobby stuff down here, and the utilities, the stove being in the basement helps keep the mess contained to areas that can be easily swept and makes hauling wood indoors a wheelbarrow job instead of a few pieces at a time up the stairs.

Per one of my prior posts, this basement area is (or was) wonderfully warm in winter while the stove is on, and cool and dark in summer, when we see 40 degrees C/104F temps, and a cool dark spot out of the sun is much welcomed.

Cheers
Trev
 
Sorry yes it is two 45,s my mistake. Is that bottle of Castrol you're fire starter op lol


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

If you mean the bottle on the shelf behind the wood box, it was filled with salvaged ATF, and yeah, used it on some wadded up chunks of jean material when I was in a hurry to relight the old stove. Been there longer than my spiderweb collection, to be honest.

Now you are seeing why I wanted to clean some...even if I didn't. I wanted to. :)

Cheers
Trev
 
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I doubt we would ever know but it is a plausible explanation for his problems and, if true, a simple fix as long as he hasn't wrecked the bypass yet.

Gods all help me, if it were so stupid and so simple. And gods all help the human race, if I were!

Nope. Bypass was open because I just relit the stove and was walking around taking pictures. People wanted pictures.

Up and over, down and locked to the back, to run, up and over to the front equals open to load.

And the bypass seal is leaving a nice braid pattern on the top of the inner plate of the stove, which was one of the purposes of having it burn out and cool down, in the first place. I pulled the pipe off and had a look around in there while it was cool.

Cheers
Trev
 
Were you able to see right through to the top of the chimney? Can you access the top?

And I've probably missed it in this loooooong thread, or forgot. how is it cleaned?
 
Is that single wall installed backwards? Sure looks like it.

I hope trev checks the thermostat . What if he's only been using 50% of the range? He says he hears it clack closed a lot which shouldn't happen much at 600 degrees on the stovetop. Simply spin the little black knob full clockwise until it hard stops and verify the pointer is pointing directly at the ground. Ignore the label, spin the knob full clockwise!

Do you think he would tell us if he hadn't been engaging the cat? Only engaging the cat during reloads causing smoke rollout? Trev, when at your computer looking at the stove, spin the cat handle full clockwise to engage the cat and get the heat.

Yeah the lowest section is tapered on both ends. Needed to choose between there, and the horizontal run, as the thimble wasn't going to take a non factory rolled in crimp taper. So it was make one end fit the rest, or doctor the rest to fit over where it really didn't want to stretch. The two 45's each are directional tapered. So the logic was to put the mismatch taper to the joint like to see the most heat. Creosote had not been an issue, even on the crap I had been burning.

No, I have the thermostat cranked till it stops up until now, save at night, when I had lowered it a bit. FWIW, full open gets me a touch past the 6:00 position, clockwise, not quite to 6:30 (see the clock on the wall in the pictures? I still use one of those!)

Reloads get the bypass pulled up and over forward.

Y'know, I am alright with some healthy skepticism, but geez man, really? :)

It's not that it clicks and clacks a lot, but I do hear the flapper when it cycles.

Cheers
Trev
 
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Reloads get the bypass pulled up and over forward.

Y'know, I am alright with some healthy skepticism, but geez man, really? :)

It's not that it clicks and clacks a lot, but I do hear the flapper when it cycles.

Cheers
Trev


Well, it was going to be a really easy fix if you've been running the cat bypass backwards ;)

Glad to hear that's not the case.
 
Were you able to see right through to the top of the chimney? Can you access the top?

And I've probably missed it in this loooooong thread, or forgot. how is it cleaned?

Yes, I can see the walls of the clay liner to the top, using a hand mirror.

Brush, fiberglass pole, a weight and rope, from above, last done prior to the heating season. Clean out shoveled into bucket was about a half gallon of random ash and carbon. Much of it ash from the inside of the horizontal run and thimble to the clay liner.

Been burning long and hot, in the main, with the old stove. Looked up the pipe, didn't see much other than a rectangular hole at the top. Didn't think it worth being up the ladder while it was 17 below zero C, to do it again when the new stove went in.

I figure that some guy with more energy than I have, ought to come up with a cleaning system that runs up the inside of the liner.

While it's not like heights have not actually killed anyone, they have(Everest is littered with them, for example), the sudden stop at the bottom has a somewhat more effective record. And requires less distance.

Cheers
Trev
 
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I bailed and went to bed early last night, so the stove burned out sometime this AM.

Moisture tested a couple pieces of that there snow white tree pictured piled up outside, from my wood box, as they have now been inside pretty much since I unloaded my trailer.

Got readings ranging from single digits (5ish percent) which I had my doubts about, a bunch of 12-14 percent readings (which seemed realistic and repeatable) and a couple readings on the outer regions that were around 17 percent. This all on the blocks I used to start my fire as kindling.

Been running for a while now, on a fresh mostly fill. Laid in 4 or 5 quarter rounds off the wood box, and cranked the stove right up.

Currently the temp gauge is reading almost full on the scale. Sitting a little past the 3:00 on the Active zone marking. Temperature gun reads 769F beside the Cat gauge, 360F on top of the horizontal run, just after the second 45's edge. This with the temp control pinned full on, as well.

I need to crawl into bed.

Night all, and thanks.

Cheers
Trev
 
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At 769°F stovetop, at least you won't have to worry about bumping into the stove when the lights are off, as it should be glowing a bit.

Did the old stove glow red on a regular basis?
 
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I bailed and went to bed early last night, so the stove burned out sometime this AM.

Moisture tested a couple pieces of that there snow white tree pictured piled up outside, from my wood box, as they have now been inside pretty much since I unloaded my trailer.

Got readings ranging from single digits (5ish percent) which I had my doubts about, a bunch of 12-14 percent readings (which seemed realistic and repeatable) and a couple readings on the outer regions that were around 17 percent. This all on the blocks I used to start my fire as kindling.

Been running for a while now, on a fresh mostly fill. Laid in 4 or 5 quarter rounds off the wood box, and cranked the stove right up.

Currently the temp gauge is reading almost full on the scale. Sitting a little past the 3:00 on the Active zone marking. Temperature gun reads 769F beside the Cat gauge, 360F on top of the horizontal run, just after the second 45's edge. This with the temp control pinned full on, as well.

I need to crawl into bed.

Night all, and thanks.

Cheers
Trev
Sounds like you put the moisture issue to bed as well! That stove to temp seems normal.

At 769°F stovetop, at least you won't have to worry about bumping into the stove when the lights are off, as it should be glowing a bit.

Did the old stove glow red on a regular basis?
It takes more than 800F for steel to glow unless it's thin sheet metal.
 
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Per one of my prior posts, this basement area is (or was) wonderfully warm in winter while the stove is on, and cool and dark in summer, when we see 40 degrees C/104F temps, and a cool dark spot out of the sun is much welcomed.
I don't have much else to add to try to help you other than look for a 3cu foot stove box that has a 6" stove collar. EPA reburn tube stove is prob your best bet for your install, your masonry chimney is not wide enough to handle the bk king.
 
your masonry chimney is not wide enough to handle the bk king.
Yes it is now that we know the actual size of the liner there is plenty of volume there and plenty of height as well.
 
Currently the temp gauge is reading almost full on the scale. Sitting a little past the 3:00 on the Active zone marking. Temperature gun reads 769F beside the Cat gauge, 360F on top of the horizontal run, just after the second 45's edge. This with the temp control pinned full on, as well.
Those temps all sound in line. But it still is not putting out good heat? I noticed you said you used to get quite a bit of heat from the masonry structure upstairs. I am wondering if now that you are running at much lower exhaust temps if a big part of the issue is that you are no longer also heating with your chimney. I think you also might want to try splitting your wood a bit smaller and see if that makes it work better. if you are only fitting 4 or 5 splits in a king they have to be pretty darn big. It may have absolutely no effect but it is worth a try.
 
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It takes more than 800F for steel to glow unless it's thin sheet metal.
;lol ;)
Those temps all sound in line. But it still is not putting out good heat?...I think you also might want to try splitting your wood a bit smaller and see if that makes it work better. if you are only fitting 4 or 5 splits in a king they have to be pretty darn big. It may have absolutely no effect but it is worth a try.
Yeah, temps sound better since he's trying to pick drier wood. Now to get the heat upstairs....I wonder if the stairs are close to the stove, and if they come out in the middle of the upstairs layout?
Split size, I dunno...he seems to be cranking out some heat now with the bigger ones....
 
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