husky345 vermont resolute
Feeling the Heat
I would say op definitely needs more rise on that pipe off the stove plus loose the 90 for two 45's
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Dissapointed in New Blaze King King
- Thread starter trevj
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Niko
Minister of Fire
At long last, some pictures to admire as you see fit.
I believe in what goes around, comes around, so i wish all those that have helped me out, the very best.
Some of y'all got some make-up reading comprehension to pick up on, and some, who have done little but question my intentions and provided nothing else, well, may your life will be comedic relief for someone else's.
Sorry (only sorta) that I don't fit in with your mutual admiration society.
So, for what it's worth, the outside pictures of the house show the general arrangement. The flue furthest from the camera is the wood stove.
I sprung for a couple magnetic temp gauges today. Will post temps both stovetop and on the pipe at the top 45 of the two, unless closer to the thimble is better. At this point, with the temp control dialed around to the 4:30 position, I have the catalyst thermometer just a little past the 12:00, reading 400F on the stove top beside that, and 200 on the lower side of the upper 45 degree joint.
Got a really rough estimate in the $2K range, for a new chimney liner/replacement, from a fellow that seemed to be on his game, as he was able to quote to me the chapter, paragraph and verse, of Code, as well as itemizing some things he saw that he thought could be done to maybe salvage the situation a bit.
One of the suggestions was to put in a outside air source. Seems like a decent idea, and rather more accessible than some of the options.
Feedback welcome, unless it is the nature as to questioning my motives. Those guys should expect to be treated pretty much as they give.
I am getting in to the shoulder season here, as far as heating needs go (suck it, Prairie boys, BTDT got the teeshirt!), so I am less in need of perfection, but am quite willing to work towards it.
See ya tomorrow.
Cheers
Trev
Why is your window completely black? Maybe i missed some posts before, but its looks like its got something on the window and like others have stated your byPass is wide open. A closed door and a window that is complete black, your bypass open is open, i habe never seen a window like that looks like its spray painted. You sure your wood is good? In the pixture it looks to bright, i thought better aged wood looked more greyish. Aghh what do i know goodluck man.
Im glad you posted pictures.
O by the way when i zoomed into your chimney pictures from the outside the one looks like creasote is all around the side of it, while the other is very clean.
I believe that is two 45s. They might work better separated, with one at the flue collar, one at the thimble, I don't know.
Yes, it's entirely possible you did miss one or two....try to keep up.
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lsucet
Minister of Fire
husky345 vermont resolute
Feeling the Heat
Sorry yes it is two 45,s my mistake. Is that bottle of Castrol you're fire starter op lol
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lsucet
Minister of Fire
I don't think he is to much off with the install as for the manual. maybe a little short on the uprise of the stove pipe to the 45. i can't see nothing in the manual saying that it should rise/incline the horizontal run but i know it helps too. maybe he needs the liner, be sure of tstat calibration, wood is at the right MC, and get used to the way these stoves works and learn to operate them.
jetsam
Minister of Fire
That appears to be my basement- it has my computer in it, but somebody else's dog. :/
At a glance, I'm gonna finger the first five feet of flue pipe as one problem. Making a 90 out of two 45s might satisfy the letter of the recommendations but not the engineering reasons the recommendations were made. (I am also guessing that there would need to be a second problem elsewhere in the flue to make a King incapable of making good heat.)
Also, if you've been running it hot, why in the world is the window black? Maybe it's just the picture.
The bypass needs to be closed to make proper heat, but it looks like it's not burning at all in the photo.
With the bypass closed and the thermostat all the way up, do you get a big roaring fire or what?
(Also, you would see a large benefit from insulating all that bare cement no matter what stove you have.)
If we can clear the likeliest suspects (draft and wood) of blame, it could also be an air intake problem, which is less likely but possible.
At a glance, I'm gonna finger the first five feet of flue pipe as one problem. Making a 90 out of two 45s might satisfy the letter of the recommendations but not the engineering reasons the recommendations were made. (I am also guessing that there would need to be a second problem elsewhere in the flue to make a King incapable of making good heat.)
Also, if you've been running it hot, why in the world is the window black? Maybe it's just the picture.
The bypass needs to be closed to make proper heat, but it looks like it's not burning at all in the photo.
With the bypass closed and the thermostat all the way up, do you get a big roaring fire or what?
(Also, you would see a large benefit from insulating all that bare cement no matter what stove you have.)
If we can clear the likeliest suspects (draft and wood) of blame, it could also be an air intake problem, which is less likely but possible.
kennyp2339
Minister of Fire
So moving the stove to the upstairs is out of the question? I'd move it upstairs, put in a clean out door in the basement and call it a day, oh and order the convection top and blower kit, let the heat ooze out slow and stead with the blower on low.
Attaboy
Member
Is this not more in line with what the manufacture has in mind when recommending an installation with 2 x 45° elbows.
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No, the 45's should be together so there is more vertical rise before the first elbow.
husky345 vermont resolute
Feeling the Heat
Attaboy
Member
Attaboy
Member
Personally I do not have a problem with the uninsulated basement, especially in the area he resides in, yes it is always preferable to insulate but this is not the cause of his problems.
VirginiaIron
Minister of Fire
In that case, thermocontrol probably makes what you want, but now I see that The website says it's not for residential installation. And all but the smallest have an 8 inch venting requirement.
http://www.thermocontrolstoves.com/
Edit: my mistake I thought you had a full 8 inch chimney.
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shoot-straight
Minister of Fire
its simply amazing how much heat is lost (transferred) into that uninuslated block wall.
I have an oversized, uninsulated masonry fireplace that sits on the northern outside wall of my house. I too was unhappy with the output of my ashford at first, saying it didnt out enough heat. In the end, I lose LOTS of heat through that brick. So much in fact that I have considered buying an insert, which I could then insulate. However, I like the look of the free stander too much and have figured out how to burn my stove to get the best heat output.
In short, slow, even heat does not do well with all that block. You need to "overwhelm" it so the heat can be passed on to other areas of the home. Hope that makes sense.
I have an oversized, uninsulated masonry fireplace that sits on the northern outside wall of my house. I too was unhappy with the output of my ashford at first, saying it didnt out enough heat. In the end, I lose LOTS of heat through that brick. So much in fact that I have considered buying an insert, which I could then insulate. However, I like the look of the free stander too much and have figured out how to burn my stove to get the best heat output.
In short, slow, even heat does not do well with all that block. You need to "overwhelm" it so the heat can be passed on to other areas of the home. Hope that makes sense.
He is still way short of the vertical rise they want, and two 45s is a little less abrupt than a 90. Pushing the stove to the wall and cutting down the horizontal run will help. Might have to insulate behind the thermostat, though...
Shame on me. I thought this stove was in his main floor the entire time while reading this. His setup really would be better off using a wood furnace instead. Sell it and get a wood furnace. His application makes no sense to me.
I know several of you run stoves in your basements, but i would say that a good portion of that heat is going right into the un-insulated cinder block. The heat that is actually going into the hood and then blown around the house is likely minimal.
The question would be will he be OK with sacrificing the burn times with a conventional wood furnace over the BK's long burn times. (Although they do have a catalytic wood furnace for sale in Canada... The Apex.
I know several of you run stoves in your basements, but i would say that a good portion of that heat is going right into the un-insulated cinder block. The heat that is actually going into the hood and then blown around the house is likely minimal.
The question would be will he be OK with sacrificing the burn times with a conventional wood furnace over the BK's long burn times. (Although they do have a catalytic wood furnace for sale in Canada... The Apex.
lsucet
Minister of Fire
It can be ideal after the 2' minimum rise but better with 3' rise and the setup in the picture
Attaboy
Member
With the present chimney timble placement I am not sure there is sufficient height to rise up vertically 36'' and then go up in to the timble allowing for 1/4'' per foot of horizontal run, which is why I previously inquired from Trev if it was possible to move the timble up and seal off the actual hole location.
IMHO all I see here choking the stove from 8'' to 7'' and then more re-choking of the draft with the flue.
IMHO all I see here choking the stove from 8'' to 7'' and then more re-choking of the draft with the flue.
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Attaboy
Member
The cinder block chimney is located in the middle of the house therefore to an extent maintains heat by its central location, not as bad if it were on an outside wall.
husky345 vermont resolute
Feeling the Heat
Is that single wall installed backwards? Sure looks like it.
I hope trev checks the thermostat . What if he's only been using 50% of the range? He says he hears it clack closed a lot which shouldn't happen much at 600 degrees on the stovetop. Simply spin the little black knob full clockwise until it hard stops and verify the pointer is pointing directly at the ground. Ignore the label, spin the knob full clockwise!
Do you think he would tell us if he hadn't been engaging the cat? Only engaging the cat during reloads causing smoke rollout? Trev, when at your computer looking at the stove, spin the cat handle full clockwise to engage the cat and get the heat.
BigFir
Burning Hunk
http://www.google.ca/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0ahUKEwisqp6G3-LRAhVIImMKHcQCChIQFggaMAA&url=http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/timber-ridge-wood-stove-2200-sq-ft-e-p-a-0642845p.html&usg=AFQjCNGiiL4yH5s8Calic7b1dGw_8rIHig
In stock in Kamloops in Aberdeen CT. In 5 hours It would be sitting in your basement. Ask for the last sale price and they will probably give it to you(I did that and it worked. 999.99$).
Make a deal with Squisher on the BKK and everyone is happy!
I love solving problems.........
You're welcome...lol
In stock in Kamloops in Aberdeen CT. In 5 hours It would be sitting in your basement. Ask for the last sale price and they will probably give it to you(I did that and it worked. 999.99$).
Make a deal with Squisher on the BKK and everyone is happy!
I love solving problems.........
You're welcome...lol
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I doubt we would ever know but it is a plausible explanation for his problems and, if true, a simple fix as long as he hasn't wrecked the bypass yet.
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