Dissapointed in New Blaze King King

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Quick point, that chimney does not look like 30 feet high !
 
There is not much lift on that flue pipe from the stove top to the chimney, if need be can the timble entry into the chimney be higher up with a plug and cement sealing the actual one ? What did your tech say on this particular item ?
 
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Quick point, that chimney does not look like 30 feet high !
Maybe not, but it's close to 25' anyway. Plenty tall enough.
The home doesn't look very old, the insulating and sealing shouldn't be too bad. It appears to be quit a lot larger than 1100' on each level though.
 
I sprung for a couple magnetic temp gauges today. Will post temps both stovetop and on the pipe at the top 45 of the two, unless closer to the thimble is better. At this point, with the temp control dialed around to the 4:30 position, I have the catalyst thermometer just a little past the 12:00, reading 400F on the stove top beside that, and 200 on the lower side of the upper 45 degree joint

How far into the burn at this point? for me when it looks like i am ready to reload if i open the tstat at those settings like you and rake the coals out the ash and to the front, i get easy 2 to 3 more hrs of usable heat and the stove top climb almost to 500 with sometimes touching the 500 df mark in the stovetop thermometer. by the time it drop to 300 stovetop with the cat probe around 10 o'clock, i have to be careful cause possibly what is in there is not enough to relight a new load. I am wandering if you tstat is calibrated properly and we can compare it regardless that not all setups are the same but it can be an starting point. at 4:30 like you said if still wood inside it should be in flame.

The temp in the flue is hard to tell if is not a flue probe that give you more accurate reading.
 
If you guys talked code and this guy was a walking encyclopedia of it, what'd he say about the hood?

Unfortunately that hood arrangement is a carbon monoxide and killer smoke spreader should that stove malfunction or a fire ignite in the basement.
 
As some one else noticed. There does not appear to be a rise/incline in the horizontal stove pipe. Also as stated the fresh split wood is a concern. That was my struggle my first year with an EPA stove.
 
The flue furthest from the camera is the wood stove.

Cheers
Trev

Am I wrong, I am interpreting this as the fireplace flue and the stove flue are both in the same chimney ?
 
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Move the stove closer to the wall, shorten that horizontal run. It's a non combustible wall, I'd get it as close as possible as long as the t-stat still works ok.(too close can cause it to think it's hotter than it is) I would also move the thimble up like others have suggested before messing with a liner. You can have that done reasonably cheap if you don't want to mess with it yourself.

If I missed it I'm sorry, what is the temp in the basement and first floor with the stove running?
 
Quick point, that chimney does not look like 30 feet high !
Looks similar to my house and mines 26 feet to the top of the stove.
 
What is that vent behind the stove? is it connect it to chimney? an outside air?
 
What is that vent behind the stove? is it connect it to chimney? an outside air?
It's a clean out. I would seal it with silicone to ensure it isn't sucking any air.
 
What is that vent behind the stove? is it connect it to chimney? an outside air?

May be wrong but I took that as the chimney clean out.
 
It's a clean out. I would seal it with silicone to ensure it isn't sucking any air.


That is the reason of my question cause it is just there where the intake of the stove is. sometime wear things happen and is from something so simple.
 
Does anyone know if blaze king requires a minimum stove pipe rise for that stove, is it listed in their manual ?
 
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Does anyone know if blaze king require a minimum stove pipe rise for that stove, is it listed in their manual ?
3' vertical is recommended, 2' is the minimum.
1/4" per foot of rise in horizontal runs.
 
May be wrong but I took that as the chimney clean out.


I really have no experience at all with those kind the setups but i can see that if is connected or is part of the chimney and it is not well sealed can create a loop back to the intake of the stove affecting draft. like everybody knows BK required good draft to work correctly. I used to have overdraft issue in the past with other stoves and with BK never have a feeling of that happening. But i know, my setup is simple, not complicated at all.
 
Does anyone know if blaze king requires a minimum stove pipe rise for that stove, is it listed in their manual ?
I believe they recommend 30 or 36" minimum if i remember correctly before any bend and also recommend two 45 instead of a 90 in all their wood stove installation.
 
Were you reloading in that pic I notice the bypass is open. Also At the thimble it looks blued looks like you get some heat up the stack!
Very nice backdrop BTW!
 
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I really have no experience at all with those kind the setups but i can see that if is connected or is part of the chimney and it is not well sealed can create a loop back to the intake of the stove affecting draft. .

In a previous house with an exterior brick chimney I would fill the chimney clean out with Roxul insulation just in case air tried to seep in there.
 
In the pic, the cat is not engaged.

2) your flue temps are silly low. for a test please turn the stat all the way up until you can't turn it any farther. Where is the needle pointing? It should point straight to the floor.
 
Does that hood pull air the entire time the stove is running?
 
I sprung for a couple magnetic temp gauges today. Will post temps both stovetop and on the pipe at the top 45 of the two, unless closer to the thimble is better. At this point, with the temp control dialed around to the 4:30 position, I have the catalyst thermometer just a little past the 12:00, reading 400F on the stove top beside that, and 200 on the lower side of the upper 45 degree joint.
Got a really rough estimate in the $2K range, for a new chimney liner/replacement, from a fellow that seemed to be on his game, as he was able to quote to me the chapter, paragraph and verse, of Code, as well as itemizing some things he saw that he thought could be done to maybe salvage the situation a bit. One of the suggestions was to put in a outside air source. Seems like a decent idea, and rather more accessible than some of the options.
Put the flue meter on vertical pipe, 18" above stove top if you can.
Did he give you a written estimate? Need more details on this guy's proposal to tell if it's a decent deal. Busting out the clay liner? What make and model of liner? Insulated? What were the options he suggested as possible improvements?
I wouldn't stay married to the BK, either; I'd ask if he could get a 5.5" insulated liner in the leaving the clay liner intact. Then I would call Drolet or maybe some others to see if they thought the HT-2000 would breathe well enough to work on a 5.5". That really opens up your options for what could be connected to the chimney down the road, and you avoid the expense of busting out the clay liner. Of course, a big stove with 8" liner might be what you really need there, I don't know. Do you have any utility bills from when you didn't use the stove, or could you get usage data from the utility? With that info, I think I've seen some folks here figure out how many BTUs/hr. are needed.
your flue temps are silly low.
That's with the meter on the bottom of the second 45 elbow...gonna be cool there.
 
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