Attaboy
Member
Quick point, that chimney does not look like 30 feet high !
Dissapointed in New Blaze King King
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Attaboy
Member
There is not much lift on that flue pipe from the stove top to the chimney, if need be can the timble entry into the chimney be higher up with a plug and cement sealing the actual one ? What did your tech say on this particular item ?
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Maybe not, but it's close to 25' anyway. Plenty tall enough.
The home doesn't look very old, the insulating and sealing shouldn't be too bad. It appears to be quit a lot larger than 1100' on each level though.
lsucet
Minister of Fire
How far into the burn at this point? for me when it looks like i am ready to reload if i open the tstat at those settings like you and rake the coals out the ash and to the front, i get easy 2 to 3 more hrs of usable heat and the stove top climb almost to 500 with sometimes touching the 500 df mark in the stovetop thermometer. by the time it drop to 300 stovetop with the cat probe around 10 o'clock, i have to be careful cause possibly what is in there is not enough to relight a new load. I am wandering if you tstat is calibrated properly and we can compare it regardless that not all setups are the same but it can be an starting point. at 4:30 like you said if still wood inside it should be in flame.
The temp in the flue is hard to tell if is not a flue probe that give you more accurate reading.
Attaboy
Member
Unfortunately that hood arrangement is a carbon monoxide and killer smoke spreader should that stove malfunction or a fire ignite in the basement.
As some one else noticed. There does not appear to be a rise/incline in the horizontal stove pipe. Also as stated the fresh split wood is a concern. That was my struggle my first year with an EPA stove.
Attaboy
Member
Am I wrong, I am interpreting this as the fireplace flue and the stove flue are both in the same chimney ?
Move the stove closer to the wall, shorten that horizontal run. It's a non combustible wall, I'd get it as close as possible as long as the t-stat still works ok.(too close can cause it to think it's hotter than it is) I would also move the thimble up like others have suggested before messing with a liner. You can have that done reasonably cheap if you don't want to mess with it yourself.
If I missed it I'm sorry, what is the temp in the basement and first floor with the stove running?
If I missed it I'm sorry, what is the temp in the basement and first floor with the stove running?
Attaboy
Member
Definitely and just love the mountains in the background, brings you closer to god.
lsucet
Minister of Fire
It's a clean out. I would seal it with silicone to ensure it isn't sucking any air.
Attaboy
Member
lsucet
Minister of Fire
That is the reason of my question cause it is just there where the intake of the stove is. sometime wear things happen and is from something so simple.
Attaboy
Member
3' vertical is recommended, 2' is the minimum.
1/4" per foot of rise in horizontal runs.
lsucet
Minister of Fire
I really have no experience at all with those kind the setups but i can see that if is connected or is part of the chimney and it is not well sealed can create a loop back to the intake of the stove affecting draft. like everybody knows BK required good draft to work correctly. I used to have overdraft issue in the past with other stoves and with BK never have a feeling of that happening. But i know, my setup is simple, not complicated at all.
lsucet
Minister of Fire
I believe they recommend 30 or 36" minimum if i remember correctly before any bend and also recommend two 45 instead of a 90 in all their wood stove installation.
Dieselhead
Minister of Fire
Attaboy
Member
In a previous house with an exterior brick chimney I would fill the chimney clean out with Roxul insulation just in case air tried to seep in there.
In the pic, the cat is not engaged.
2) your flue temps are silly low. for a test please turn the stat all the way up until you can't turn it any farther. Where is the needle pointing? It should point straight to the floor.
2) your flue temps are silly low. for a test please turn the stat all the way up until you can't turn it any farther. Where is the needle pointing? It should point straight to the floor.
Put the flue meter on vertical pipe, 18" above stove top if you can.
Did he give you a written estimate? Need more details on this guy's proposal to tell if it's a decent deal. Busting out the clay liner? What make and model of liner? Insulated? What were the options he suggested as possible improvements?
I wouldn't stay married to the BK, either; I'd ask if he could get a 5.5" insulated liner in the leaving the clay liner intact. Then I would call Drolet or maybe some others to see if they thought the HT-2000 would breathe well enough to work on a 5.5". That really opens up your options for what could be connected to the chimney down the road, and you avoid the expense of busting out the clay liner. Of course, a big stove with 8" liner might be what you really need there, I don't know. Do you have any utility bills from when you didn't use the stove, or could you get usage data from the utility? With that info, I think I've seen some folks here figure out how many BTUs/hr. are needed.
That's with the meter on the bottom of the second 45 elbow...gonna be cool there.
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