Dissapointed in New Blaze King King

[kennyp2339]

My take on this... I'm a huge proponent of BK stoves, I have one and it really works well for my application but... its not going to work correctly for the OP.
The BK King btu per hour range on high is approx. 50,000, that's not enough rapid heat for him, he's trying to heat air through duct work and redistribute it around his house, that air needs to be above 110 deg to get any worthy heat.
I'm not sure what stove will fix the op's problems (including flue) but I would suspect that he needs a woodstove that could produce +75,000 btu's per hour. (insert Englander nc30 here) or a true wood furnace.
The nice thing about owning a BK King (if in good shape) is the higher than average resale value, I personally don't think the op will loose his shirt reselling the stove.

 

[BuckyBeaver524]

My take on this... I'm a huge proponent of BK stoves, I have one and it really works well for my application but... its not going to work correctly for the OP.
The BK King btu per hour range on high is approx. 50,000, that's not enough rapid heat for him, he's trying to heat air through duct work and redistribute it around his house, that air needs to be above 110 deg to get any worthy heat.
I'm not sure what stove will fix the op's problems (including flue) but I would suspect that he needs a woodstove that could produce +75,000 btu's per hour. (insert Englander nc30 here) or a true wood furnace.
The nice thing about owning a BK King (if in good shape) is the higher than average resale value, I personally don't think the op will loose his shirt reselling the stove.

Progress Hybrid Soapstone Stove #209 12500-73200 btu/hr But is probably too good looking for a basement application.

 

[Highbeam]

My take on this... I'm a huge proponent of BK stoves, I have one and it really works well for my application but... its not going to work correctly for the OP.
The BK King btu per hour range on high is approx. 50,000, that's not enough rapid heat for him, he's trying to heat air through duct work and redistribute it around his house, that air needs to be above 110 deg to get any worthy heat.
I'm not sure what stove will fix the op's problems (including flue) but I would suspect that he needs a woodstove that could produce +75,000 btu's per hour. (insert Englander nc30 here) or a true wood furnace.
The nice thing about owning a BK King (if in good shape) is the higher than average resale value, I personally don't think the op will loose his shirt reselling the stove.

Yes, but remember that whole BTU discussion we had earlier. The 50,000 btu that the king puts out is not the peak output like most other stoves list in their brochures. The peak of the king was right near 90,000 btu according to BK. The peak of the NC30 according to the EPA chart is 28,300 which is less than the EPA max for the king at 39800. In other words, the properly installed king spanks the NC30. The PH (a small stove at just 2.8 CF) has long legs at a max of 73200 per the EPA but even the 1.5 CF keystone (actually smaller) is supposed to make 40,000 so I suspect some cooking of the books here.

https://www.epa.gov/sites/production/files/2013-08/documents/certifiedwood.pdf

It is hard to trust that EPA chart but it's the only thing we have. Maybe just firebox size is all we can trust and if so, the king is huge!

 

[BuckyBeaver524]

Yes, but remember that whole BTU discussion we had earlier. The 50,000 btu that the king puts out is not the peak output like most other stoves list in their brochures. The peak of the king was right near 90,000 btu according to BK. The peak of the NC30 according to the EPA chart is 28,300 which is less than the EPA max for the king at 39800. In other words, the properly installed king spanks the NC30. The PH (a small stove at just 2.8 CF) has long legs at a max of 73200 per the EPA but even the 1.5 CF keystone (actually smaller) is supposed to make 40,000 so I suspect some cooking of the books here.

https://www.epa.gov/sites/production/files/2013-08/documents/certifiedwood.pdf

It is hard to trust that EPA chart but it's the only thing we have. Maybe just firebox size is all we can trust and if so, the king is huge!

Now you're starting to sound like Trump.........

 

[BuckyBeaver524]

The OP joined the site Monday and the two threads he has posted in have been complaining about BK. He won't take anyone's advice, won't provide proof of his setup, and insults the people he is asking for help.

View attachment 193452

Lots of good information from reputable folks here though!

you BK guys are so sensitive......

 

[lsucet]

Ok one more time about btu for BK. real world more or less

The facts on BTU.
There are only two rating methods that mean something to you, the consumer:

1
The first is the BTU output that is achieved during EPA testing. This testing is quite complicated and costly milled woods are burned. This is a standard for all manufacturer testing and is not intended to provide consumers with a model for how a stove will burn in their home.

2
The second method is what Blaze King refers to as the "Real World" method. These BTUs are achieved during in house testing using the same thing a consumer burns, split, dry cordwood. In our tests, we use fir. The "Real World" BTUs listed are what the average consumer can expect to achieve, with slight variations depending upon geographical location, type of wood, elevation and amount of fuel added. Higher BTUs are possible. If you were to stand in front of your stove and frequently add fuel, burn the unit on high and have optimal conditions, the PE1006 could produce as high as 87,850 BTUs and the KE1107 could exceed 90,000 BTUs!

However, maximum BTUs would only be achievable at a certain "peak" during the burn.

Blaze King does not wish to mislead you, so we give you all the facts.

 

[Tocramed]

you BK guys are so sensitive......

This would be no different if it was a Progress Hybrid...or any stove.

 

[weatherguy]

He said he was going to try and get a camera to take some pics, give him some time, he probably has to work for a living and sounds like has farm chores to do also.

 

[lsucet]

Plus he had some precious metal removed from his leg. Give him some time.

 

[brenndatomu]

In our tests, we use fir

Blaze King does not wish to mislead you, so we give you all the facts.

I take you are a BK employee?

 

[lsucet]

I take you are a BK employee?

Hey, you never know

 

[Highbeam]

I take you are a BK employee?

That quote was from the BK webpage which is why it reads that way.

 

[BigFir]

I live in Kamloops, and if you used the shop I think you did, I would not be to surprised you got bad info. Before buying the NC30 I did some shopping there. I wasn't interested in a BK, but they pushed it SOOOO hard regardless of my interest of the Summit. It annoyed me so much I refused to buy from there, glad I made that decision ( although I still really like the PE).

The impression I got from them is the stove was so great it would run without a chimney or even wood for that matter! lol

Disclaimer: I have nothing against the BK

 

[Attaboy]

I have posted several times here that I believe that the problem and poor stove performance the OP is living with is caused by his chimney and his current flue installation. Alternatively not much can be done for the OP's contempt of the big Blaze King as he does not like certain things in the stoves engineering / design, however he could certainly see how it was built and discern this with the stove which was on display on the dealers show room floor unless the dealer did not have one and it was a special order for the OP.

I sympathise with the OP's situation as it is extremely disappointing and heartbreaking for him or anyone else who would have such problems, however and I say this respectfully if it were me stuck with this problem I would by now have paid a qualified independent certified technician to analyse my installation and setup, have the tech test and evaluate the flue and chimney followed by the brand new stove itself, if anything or several things were problematic have the tech recommend how to fix it and confirm all his findings and solutions on paper, now I am fully equipped to make decisions and move ahead.

Obviously there is a cost of probably $200.00 - $250.00 perhaps even more, however I would now be done with it and well geared up to fixing my installation, resolving the issues and progressing to safely heat my home and then enjoy my wood heat, (or confront my selling stove dealer and if absolutely necessary because all else is ok then purchase another stove better suited to my needs and expectations).

None of us know the OP, we do not know if he is really legit or not, neither if he really wants true honest help judging from his present demeanor, nor do we know if he can financially afford to move ahead with required changes/modifications or not, all this could simply be an exercise of beating a dead horse and an incredible waste of time for all.

 

[BigFir]

Other simple solution......Sell the BK for 3 times what you can get a Timberidge 50 at CT and stop fighting the battle. I burn dead standing fir all the time (judgement is needed as some is ready some not) and get a clean hot burn and easy over night burns. If the pipe and thimble are the issue, this would be easier and you would be putting money back in your pocket.......

 

[BuckyBeaver524]

I live in Kamloops, and if you used the shop I think you did, I would not be to surprised you got bad info. Before buying the NC30 I did some shopping there. I wasn't interested in a BK, but they pushed it SOOOO hard regardless of my interest of the Summit. It annoyed me so much I refused to buy from there, glad I made that decision ( although I still really like the PE).

The impression I got from them is the stove was so great it would run without a chimney or even wood for that matter! lol

Hell you hear that same thing from some of the fanboys right here. Emphasis on the word some.

 

[tarzan]

Hell you hear that same thing from some of the fanboys right here. Emphasis on the word some.

Nope! Us fanboys realize it's all about dry wood and draft.

 

[bholler]

He said he was going to try and get a camera to take some pics, give him some time, he probably has to work for a living and sounds like has farm chores to do also.

Plus he had some precious metal removed from his leg. Give him some time.

Yes but that does not give him a reason to insult and demean those of us who know more then him about stoves and chimneys and are trying to help him

 

[weatherguy]

Yes but that does not give him a reason to insult and demean those of us who know more then him about stoves and chimneys and are trying to help him

I was only commenting on why he hasn't been around.

 

[lsucet]

Yes but that does not give him a reason to insult and demean those of us who know more then him about stoves and chimneys and are trying to help him

Possibly he is under some strong medication if he had screws and metal coming out his body. Maybe he is in pain or he just is a pain.

 

[bholler]

was only commenting on why he hasn't been around.

And I have absolutely no problem at all with someone not responding right away I know people are busy. But what bothers me is someone coming here for help then being disrespectful to those trying to help him.

 

[brenndatomu]

That quote was from the BK webpage which is why it reads that way.

Thanks, I see that now...that little fact was kinda omitted in the post...

 

[Woody Stover]

even the 1.5 CF keystone is supposed to make 40,000 so I suspect some cooking of the books...hard to trust that EPA chart but it's the only thing we have.

I'm seeing 35 K for the Keystone. For sure, some of the numbers seem screwy. Maybe the wackiest I saw, the Englander Madison SSW01, 12000-26300 BTU/hr. Then the SSW02, 19472 – 22961 BTU/hr?? Just a bad test run, or what? You wouldn't think that would be the case, with fixed fuel loads, and the mfgr. running their stoves at four different air settings. That said, I've run the Woodstock Fireview, Keystone, and the Dutchwest 2460 here. I never ran any of them flat out, but running in my normal ranges, the EPA numbers for those stoves correspond to the outputs I saw here. I was running the Buck 91 in a different house but that rated 51200 BTU/hr, weather right or wrong, was melting the buttons off my shirt!

if you used the shop I think you did, I would not be to surprised you got bad info....I did some shopping there. I wasn't interested in a BK, but they pushed it SOOOO hard regardless of my interest of the Summit. It annoyed me so much I refused to buy from there

That's not the first dealer I've heard of pushing the BKs like they were the be-all and end-all, but I guess that's to be expected...

that does not give him a reason to insult and demean those of us who know more then him about stoves and chimneys and are trying to help him

I was only commenting on why he hasn't been around.

Even if he's gone, at least we got a chance to kill some time. I mean, what else have we got to do? We are warm, there is nothing at all wrong with our perfect stoves, and a load of wood lasts for several days.

Other simple solution......Sell the BK for 3 times what you can get a Timberidge 50 at CT and stop fighting the battle. I burn dead standing fir all the time (judgement is needed as some is ready some not) and get a clean hot burn and easy over night burns. If the pipe and thimble are the issue, this would be easier and you would be putting money back in your pocket.......

I think he'd be fine with a large Drolet if the current issue is not solved.

This is what I would be looking to do. Hopefully he can get his money back, otherwise sell the BK for a bit of a loss, you still end up with money in your pocket. Stick the Drolet HT-2000 in there, as begreen suggested...numbers say it is a flame-thrower, and I'm seeing about $1000 US. Should handle the low-20% wood better as well.
The flue is twice the required size for a 6" connector. I think the rule of thumb says anything under three times the area of the flue can work, but the Drolet manual says to use a liner. With 30' of interior chimney, and a stove that tosses more heat up the flue, it may work without a liner...did with his old stove, apparently. But I'm no chimney expert, so it would be best to get advice from a certified pro. I also wonder if you could possibly run an insulated 5.5" liner, but it sounds mighty tight, with no wiggle room; Clay liner would have to be straight, with no mortar coming out of the joints or anything.
The un-insulated basement as well as insulation and air-sealing issues should be addressed for optimal heating, but I can see how the OP may not want to, as he is renting. Only he knows weather putting much effort into that stuff might pay off.

 

[BuckyBeaver524]

This is one of the best threads I have seen on Hearth.com. The OP is a riot. And for all you kids who feel you have been insulted or disrespected, stop whining and move on. No one says you have to stay on the thread and be a punching bag.

 

[bholler]

With 30' of interior chimney

I have to question the 30' number to