Dissapointed in New Blaze King King

[trevj]

Careful, the OP's BK is being left at maximum thermostat setting all the time. This is NOT the same thing as leaving the intake throttle blade open all the time. The BK will close the throttle blades when it warms up to the thermostat set point which includes the max stat setting.

Indeed. I hear the plate thumping back and forth regularly.

Cheers
Trev

 

[trevj]

And all the manuals I've read through are the same. They have to have the blower and a thermostat as standalone. Again if there is an existing FAF system in place my bet is a standalone isn't allowed to be installed separately it would have to be done as a downstream add on. But regardless the universal requirement of the blower would mean ducting is required. As you can't suck 900-1800(more?)cfm of air from right outside a wood combustion box or just from the room it's in, let alone the same room or area that a completely separate FAF is in too. Which again, makes the proper way(a downstream add on) a more practical install as you don't need to install non-combustible return ducts with a properly installed downstream addon.

Furnaces and ducting and all that comes with it are much more complicated than space heater installatiOns(woodstoves and inserts).

Anyone else dizzy yet?

Ayup. Spinning like a drunkard dizzy.

I appreciate that info, and your using your time to chase it down. it is beginning to sound like a real soup sandwich trying to keep a handle on it all.

Cheers
Trev

I enjoy reading this discussion, because I learn some great trouble shooting tips. It is a shame that the OP has hit the trifecta for poor performance. Questionable wood quality, poor draft, and a but the old one worked fine approach to the problem.

My question to BKVP is does a glass door add to the amount of heat outputted by a stove? I know when I am in front of the glass it is much warmer then off to the side.

Thanks everyone for sharing your experience and wisdom with the world.

Yeah. About that. Bought a moisture meter. Wood is looking..OK. Have not yet got a number pinned down on the draft. Will post when.

And yeah, the old one worked fine!

Cheers
Trev

 

[begreen]

Like a Fisher XL...BIG DADDY!

I think he'd be fine with a large Drolet if the current issue is not solved.

 

[trevj]

I know you've never seen a BK stove but the classic model the OP has probably doesn't even have the optional side shields. The internal heat shields just take the place of bricks since the deep firebox actually tilts inwards near the top and bricks would fall out.

The intake hood would work to move heated air to the house. A primarily radiant stove would make less hot air than a primarily convective stove. That's the whole point of a convective stove, to heat air. I think you have it backwards which type of heater would work better under a hood.

Right. No side shields. Was not made aware of them as an option even.

I think one of the major points is that this stove heats (at least it seems to me) a lot of air a bit, rather than a bit of air a lot, if that makes sense?

This house was not set up around that model. Maybe it can be adjusted to suit, maybe the answer for me, and my situation, isn't this. Dunno yet.

Trying stuff. New batch of wood today. Dryer than the last lot. Pulled the stove apart from the chimney, checked out the bypass through the top. Looks good. Still running 7 inch single wall from the stove to the chimney though.

Cheers
Trev

 

[trevj]

Good points, and it sounds to me like it's a cash-and-carry, self-installed.
As far as the sq. footage, that's 1100 in the un-insulated basement, then you have to get heat to the 1100 main floor, and the stairway may not be centrally located in the main floor. He said the house has been around a long time, so I'll go ahead and guess insulation and air-sealing are marginal, layout is cut up...and then he lives where it's cold. Sounds like an uphill battle all the way. He said he has all the wood he could want, and doesn't mind loading the stove, just had a small box. Maybe he just needs an old smoke-blower with a huge box. Not sure why he didn't go this route in the first place, rather than shelling out 4K for the IDK BK.

Yes, it was cash and carry, self installed.

Yes, you pretty much have a solid handle on the layout, as well as the generation of building that this is.

I would not have minded an old smoke dragon at all, except that I needed to pass an inspection, so as to be able to keep the insurance in place. That pretty much meant a new stove, which the BC authorities won't even show up to do a safety check upon, without it being an EPA approved model now.

Else I would have quietly driven to Alberta, bought a stove, and nobody ever may have been the wiser. It's not like anyone is driving around here in the sticks looking for smoke so they can write a ticket!

I was really hoping to have the best of both worlds. Hellish heat, and a reasonable improvement in efficiency while burning cleaner.

Cheers
Trev

 

[rwhite]

I've seen or read a lot on this forum. Have yet to experience the level of ass that the OP is . Like a starving man complaining about an over done steak. The boldness to come asking for help and cuss everyone that tries is beyond me. Kind of felt like I might have been a bit touchy on my previous comment but I'm thinking I nailed it.

 

[trevj]

Like a Fisher XL...BIG DADDY!

Ahhhh.... Be still my heart!

The folks that have them, are holding on tight.

Dumb thing is, as long as they are built pre-.... (1989?) I think they will actually pass them on a safety check, but I sure wouldn't take that to any bank.

The problems with most of the used ones out there are holes, and more holes. IIRC from when our little RSF was installed, it pretty much was about that the stove was essentially as it had been when it left the factory. No repairs allowed. Not a common thing on a 25 year old stove!

Cheers
Trev

 

[trevj]

I don't remember the OP showing any interest in a furnace. He's trying to get his freestanding woodstove to heat the space...

I'd have been PLENTY interested in a furnace! I believe I have stated at some point, that I don't much care if it looks like a lime green 1970's refrigerator, if it throws heat and can pass the required inspections.
It was never touched upon as an option at that point, when discussing my wants, vs. available solutions. Dunno. Wish it had.

Cheers
Trev

 

[trevj]

Granted it's a huge derail. But he did specifically ask me about wood furnaces, many pages back now.

I've pursued it to try and learn about them. I'll drop it and get back to regular programming now.

You all may think it's a derail. I am finding the Q and A educational, for which I thank y'all.

Cheers
Trev

 

[trevj]

It will only break if you bash the door against wood that's sticking out. Thermal shock has no effect on ceramic glass, unlike the stoves of old.

Yeah, and you pretty much need one person not aware, on their game, in a hurry, or otherwise, to do that.

Came close enough once, not going there again.

May have reconsidered my choice, had I the information I now have, but I hadn't.

Cheers
Trev

 

[trevj]

Loading is the least of all worries on my King. The part that you refer to that hangs down is easily visible and far above the bottom of the firebox allowing a lot of wood to be put in below it. By no means do I have to go to my chiropractor after a season of loading my stove because I crook my neck looking into the stove trying to figure out where I can wedge that last piece into the stove lol.. secondly if a piece of wood is past the knife edge of the stove that the door gasket closes against is too long. That's a pretty simple gage as to weather you may break your glass or not. Having a soild fuel burning appliance in your house takes responsibility and you gotta have common sense to run one.

any pics you can share of your setup? It may help us diagnose your draft problems.

Thanks!

Well, common sense ain't so common, is a pretty common saying, too. My form of common sense was to cut the frills and not required stuff. Like being able to watch the fire. I have a fireplace for that. Meh. What did I know, eh?

I understand the depth of the door seal frame very well thanks, as I have in fact used it to accommodate wood too long to otherwise load, which I wasn't in the mood to simply fire back into the wood box.

Pictures likely tomorrow. When and if the damn camera materializes.

Cheers
Trev

 

[trevj]

I agree. I've never ever given a moments thought to the cat housing hanging down.

Breaking the stove glass is very rare, it takes some severe abuse. Perhaps your experience with broken glass was with tempered glass rather than cerimac?

Having a house burn down is very rare too, yet we all take what precautions seem best for our needs, no? And get suckered into the insurance game.

Couldn't tell you what it was made of. It was on a Regency, I think, about 15, OK, closer to 20 (ugh!) years back, and got closed on a piece of wood that was 'just' too long. Aside from giving me a minor general dislike of glass doors, it seemed to me when I was looking at this stove that it was pretty much the last thing I would need or want.

Glad for ya, re the Cat Housing. Still kinda irritates me. Showed it to a friend today, on the terms of 'take a look in there', and he wasn't impressed, that without any coaching on my part. So I don't feel entirely alone!
It's an irritant, but a lesser one. As I said in another post, I would like to see the door height free and clear to the back wall. Yeah. Among a bunch of other wishes coming true.

Still chasing a manometer.

Cheers
Trev

 

[lsucet]

Still chasing a manometer.

Here is cheap and works
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009PAN3C8/?tag=hearthamazon-20

 

[trevj]

We completely understand what you are saying you just are not giving us the info we need to help you. If you want help stop bitching at the people trying to help you and answer their questions. We also would like to see pics because no matter how many times you tell us your setup that is not the same as seeing it.

Well, for one, I really did reconsider that particular comment, no matter how heartfelt it was from me. And edited it out.

In his case in particular, it really was about the suggestion to make sure thathe temperature control was wide open, while loading, despite my having typed and retyped exactly that...how many times.

I'm a lot less polite in real life.

Yep. Pictures. I know. Have not gone looking for the camera, as been here in front of the computer. Here in front of the computer, because I am beat from cutting wood and trying to get caught up on some chores. Been on my ass for a few days after having a couple ounces of stainless steel and screws out of my leg last Friday. Doing what I can.

Cheers
Trev

 

[trevj]

clay chimney liners are ceramic you were not wrong.


You need a chimney guy not a mason. I have never met a mason who had any idea how to break out chimney liners and put in stainless.


Are you seriously loading blocks of wood so large they barley fit through the door? There part of the problem.

Clay/ceramic. It seemed to be causing some confusion.

OK, he is the guy that built this chimney from the ground up, including the fireplace upstairs, and the associated brickwork, when my father built this house. He probably has an idea how it was put together.

And no, not actually door size. Halves of smaller rounds, quarters and eighths to fill. Given about a 8-81/2 vertical clearance between the cat housing and the lower edge of the door, that does not seem absurd to me. You? They go in level, to the back, and get dropped down, if there is not a bunch of coals there.

And yeah, I figure if I could put a block of wood in through the door, that was the full height of the door, I would. I honestly expected to be able.

Cheers
Trev

 

[trevj]

Looking for LATE NIGHT SHOW. am i in the right place?

It's early yet.

Cheers
Trev

 

[trevj]

You can't give moisture readings just after cutting. It is repeated ad nauseum in this thread the wood needs to be freshly split at room temperature for overnight. You are yet to demonstrate even doing this after 10 pages of inquiry. If you want help, respond to the help.

Yeah, about that. Go back to the start and read through. It's there.

Bonus points for reading comprehension, if you quote me back the value I posted off the wood that had been indoors in excess of 4 days and fresh split.

Cheers
Trev

 

[trevj]

OK, now that I have responded to some of the posts, I

Well you can tell if the fire responds to the thermostat by turning it up or down letting it run for 10 or 15 mins then opening the door you should see the difference in the fire. You can check the bypass to make sure it is sealing. Others have asked about the pipe temps and gotten no response. If you want help we need info. Listening to you complain is not going to tell us how to help you.

Yeah.

Pulled my pipe off the top of the stove today while it was cooled down. Took a look at the bypass, and it seems to be working OK. Nice pattern of the seal, in the surface of the dust on the deck in there.

Stuck my arm into the chimney flue. Turns out I was incorrect. Not 7 x 8 as I had stated. 6 1/2 x 10 inside instead. Couple squares bigger. Set up likely not life changing, or, maybe you no longer have any trust in me and want a divorce! Whatever. Measured.

I've seen or read a lot on this forum. Have yet to experience the level of ass that the OP is . Like a starving man complaining about an over done steak. The boldness to come asking for help and cuss everyone that tries is beyond me. Kind of felt like I might have been a bit touchy on my previous comment but I'm thinking I nailed it.

Well thanks. Door is thataway.

Do me a favor, and quote where I cussed out anyone so far. Put up. Your play.

Cheers
Trev

 

[Chimney Smoke]

And yeah, I figure if I could put a block of wood in through the door, that was the full height of the door, I would. I honestly expected to be able.

Cheers
Trev

I have the complete opposite stove as you, as small tube stove which typically burns hotter and with shorter burn times. I generally have my air closed 75% after loading the stove and my stove will run me out of the house if I don't let it burn way down between reloads. If I tried loading a solid block of wood the size of my door onto a bed of coals I'm pretty sure it would be a smoldering mess even with the air wide open. You may not want to hear it but just because something has always worked for you in the past doesn't mean it's the best way or that it will work for you if something changes.

 

[Niko]

Hey trev you just joined the forum on Monday, they guys on hearth have a lot of experience and knowledge. Not taking away from you and what you know but obviously something is wrong with your setup. Its not our stove or our house that is cold now. 90 percent of us on this forum heat our house with wood and do it very effectively. Your the one that has problems and can't figure out what is going on.

Their is also a issue of honesty, you come into this forum bashing a product to the point where your making all of us suspect you and your issues at hand. Many people have taken their time to help you don't forget. Many first time posters don't even get this much attention because the lack of pictures and lets be honest here, the internet is full of people that do stuff to make a brand look bad. i think the right thing to do here is take same pictures of the stove, some pictures of your wood setup, some pictures of your ir gun showing stove top temps etc.

I gaurantee you that once this is done your problem will be solved quickly.

 

[NoobTube]

I read through most this thread and feel bad for all parties here. However I think one thing that has been said several times but still has not happened is to have your sales person come out and look at the stove. If he is truly knowledgable about the product he sold you, he should be able to diagnose any problems that you have not yourself detected.

Trust me I know. We all want to be as intelligent and well equipped with the information we have before asking others for help. But at this point, I think he needs to stand behind his product. If its not going to work perhaps he can work out a deal with you. Given that the King is being used to heat a 1200 sqft space (which in my opinion is over-sized for the application) and not working. The one big issue I see is the chimney flue size. You said it was now 6.5 x10" now.

If at all else, perhaps he will entertain a trade for a BK Princess. That only requires a 6" flue, and that should be more than adequate for your space.

I am sorry that you are going through this. I think though at this point, the best that could happen is that your dealer could help make it right. Not to downplay the help of the great people of this forum, but I think they have tried everything they could suggest, save putting hands on product.

 

[rwhite]

OK, now that I have responded to some of the posts, I


Yeah.

Pulled my pipe off the top of the stove today while it was cooled down. Took a look at the bypass, and it seems to be working OK. Nice pattern of the seal, in the surface of the dust on the deck in there.

Stuck my arm into the chimney flue. Turns out I was incorrect. Not 7 x 8 as I had stated. 6 1/2 x 10 inside instead. Couple squares bigger. Set up likely not life changing, or, maybe you no longer have any trust in me and want a divorce! Whatever. Measured.



Well thanks. Door is thataway.

Do me a favor, and quote where I cussed out anyone so far. Put up. Your play.

Cheers
Trev

I was not considering cussing as vulgar language. It it the very poor and demeaning way in which you speak to people trying to help.

 

[tarzan]

I'm a lot less polite in real life.

Cheers
Trev

I was going too suggest doing your homework before making any major purchase instead of putting your faith in the knowledge of the folks who are trying to sell you something but now I'm just starting to feel a little bad for the folks at the stove shop.

Mixing ignorance and arrogance probably played a huge role toward getting you where your at right now.

Now you realize you need help but after 11 pages of folks trying to help you, you yourself haven't gotten beyond page one, post one for that matter!

 

[BuckyBeaver524]

Before doing anything drastic, I would try mixing some bio-bricks in with the wood to eliminate moisture as a cause for poor performance. If that doesn’t help and you’re not in a position to upgrade the install to BK recommendations, I would then swap out the stove for one that is an easier breather and more forgiving on the installation side of the equation. And yes, you will have to take a loss. Live and learn..

 

[jetsam]

Since it turns out that his flue does have enough square inches to support the king, I bet an investigation of the flue and the wood would get that king roaring.