Dissapointed in New Blaze King King

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Why is that I break out old clay tiles all the time without building anything. And without the customer spending $100000. It is a very common part of working on chimneys.



Actually no you really didn't answer many of them at all. I am sorry but it really seems like you have more desire to complain about the stove than you do to get it working. You have not even called the dealer for their advice you have not posted pictures of the setup. And you really only answered one of the questions that the VP of the company asked you so he could try to help.

Alright. You work on chimneys.

I don't.

I have occasional contact with the mason that built this one. His wife buys hay off me. Will ask whether it is solid, around the clay (yeah, I was calling it ceramic. We all talking about the same stuff?) and what the costs might be.
Now, without you gettin all butthurt or nothin like that, I made that comment and meant it in terms of not having buckets of money to throw at this. Some do. Not me. it's better on TV, where i don't have bills to pay!

As for the questions, yeah, I gave the best honest answers I could. What I cannot see, I won't claim to be. I dislike glass doors on a wood stove. Do not want.

Cheers
Trev
 
Alright. You work on chimneys.

I don't.

I have occasional contact with the mason that built this one. His wife buys hay off me. Will ask whether it is solid, around the clay (yeah, I was calling it ceramic. We all talking about the same stuff?) and what the costs might be.
Now, without you gettin all butthurt or nothin like that, I made that comment and meant it in terms of not having buckets of money to throw at this. Some do. Not me. it's better on TV, where i don't have bills to pay!

As for the questions, yeah, I gave the best honest answers I could. What I cannot see, I won't claim to be. I dislike glass doors on a wood stove. Do not want.

Cheers
Trev
It will only break if you bash the door against wood that's sticking out. Thermal shock has no effect on ceramic glass, unlike the stoves of old.
 
I think the solid door should be removed as an option. It makes it very frustrating to help diagnose an issue. I love seeing what's going on in there and it's very helpful at times.

Maybe the only problem with the cat housing hanging down low is that you bought the shortest stove. Sitting on the floor trying to stuff wood in the there is the problem more so than the cat housing in my opinion.

Maybe they should consider packing a spare glass pane and seal in with the new stoves too, then.

I have had one mess with a broken door glass on a previous stove. Big ol' nope. Not gonna happen again. I bought this unit for utility, didn't give a damn about what it looked like as far as finish. It don't look half bad, to my eye. YMMV.

No, my problem with the cat housing is that I was expecting to load the stove up, not to have to spend my time peering in to see if I had room.
What I would have really liked out of this, is to have been able to slide a block of wood in the door that just fit through the door, have it drop into the lower section, then be able to slide another block in on top of that. Not happening. As if that were not obvious.

Cheers
Trev
 
Loading is the least of all worries on my King. The part that you refer to that hangs down is easily visible and far above the bottom of the firebox allowing a lot of wood to be put in below it. By no means do I have to go to my chiropractor after a season of loading my stove because I crook my neck looking into the stove trying to figure out where I can wedge that last piece into the stove lol.. secondly if a piece of wood is past the knife edge of the stove that the door gasket closes against is too long. That's a pretty simple gage as to weather you may break your glass or not. Having a soild fuel burning appliance in your house takes responsibility and you gotta have common sense to run one.

any pics you can share of your setup? It may help us diagnose your draft problems.

Thanks!
 
Loading is the least of all worries on my King. The part that you refer to that hangs down is easily visible and far above the bottom of the firebox allowing a lot of wood to be put in below it. By no means do I have to go to my chiropractor after a season of loading my stove because I crook my neck looking into the stove trying to figure out where I can wedge that last piece into the stove lol.. secondly if a piece of wood is past the knife edge of the stove that the door gasket closes against is too long. That's a pretty simple gage as to weather you may break your glass or not. Having a soild fuel burning appliance in your house takes responsibility and you gotta have common sense to run one.

any pics you can share of your setup? It may help us diagnose your draft problems.

Thanks!
I agree. I've never ever given a moments thought to the cat housing hanging down.

Breaking the stove glass is very rare, it takes some severe abuse. Perhaps your experience with broken glass was with tempered glass rather than cerimac?
 
(yeah, I was calling it ceramic. We all talking about the same stuff?
clay chimney liners are ceramic you were not wrong.

I have occasional contact with the mason that built this one. His wife buys hay off me. Will ask whether it is solid, around the clay (yeah, I was calling it ceramic. We all talking about the same stuff?) and what the costs might be.
You need a chimney guy not a mason. I have never met a mason who had any idea how to break out chimney liners and put in stainless.

No, my problem with the cat housing is that I was expecting to load the stove up, not to have to spend my time peering in to see if I had room.
What I would have really liked out of this, is to have been able to slide a block of wood in the door that just fit through the door, have it drop into the lower section, then be able to slide another block in on top of that. Not happening. As if that were not obvious.
Are you seriously loading blocks of wood so large they barley fit through the door? There part of the problem.
 
As for the questions, yeah, I gave the best honest answers I could.
Well you can tell if the fire responds to the thermostat by turning it up or down letting it run for 10 or 15 mins then opening the door you should see the difference in the fire. You can check the bypass to make sure it is sealing. Others have asked about the pipe temps and gotten no response. If you want help we need info. Listening to you complain is not going to tell us how to help you.
 
Maybe your old stove worked better because your flu temps where 5 times hotter. If smoke is coming out of your stove you need to run it on high and leave the door open a lot longer before you fully open the door. I had this problem also when I first bought mine and many on this forum helped me. Now i don't have this problem because i learned what i was doing wrong. Im still have some problems and sometimes i think it the stove but in the end its been my wood.

But i also got to be blunt and point out the obvious, post a dam pic or even a video of whats going on. its not that hard, We have no idea if your hear to bash the stove or if you really need help.

I am a complete rookie with woodburning and my blaze king will get my downstairs 100 plus if i leave it full blast for a while. Tho i have never done it i can achieve 90+ easy with the stove cranked halfway up.


Not sure if it was mentioned before you ever think of putting a class a chimney on the side of your house?

No, I actually hadn't considered putting a chimney up the side of my house, mostly because I already have a very large pair of them running up the bloody middle of it.
One serves the stove in the basement, the other the wood fireplace in my living room on the main floor. But you would maybe have picked that out of previous posts had you read them, no?

Sorta like the minor detail of leaving the bloody thermostat on wide open pretty much since it was installed.

Yeah. Pictures. Find my camera, I'll post them. In the meantime, close your eyes and imagine what a 8 to 7 inch reducer looks like (tapered, 6 or so inches long, so half inch taper per side), a vertical rise above that, followed by two consecutive 45 degree bends (because the local place didn't have a bloody 90 degree bend), and a horizontal run from there in to a cinder block wall. Should about cover it, no? Somewhere previous, I actually posted measurements.

Same again. I get smoke, because of fresh wood being dropped onto a bed of coals. After the stove has run a while, I can open the door and it sits there just fine. When I put the first stick of wood on the coals though, it starts to puke smoke.
edited.

Cheers
Trev
 
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Well you can tell if the fire responds to the thermostat by turning it up or down letting it run for 10 or 15 mins then opening the door you should see the difference in the fire.
Yeah, I guess you could do that, if there were absolutely no way around it... ;hm ;lol
 
I think you need to punch your grade school teachers in the mouth. They passed you, without your being able to understand what you read.
We completely understand what you are saying you just are not giving us the info we need to help you. If you want help stop bitching at the people trying to help you and answer their questions. We also would like to see pics because no matter how many times you tell us your setup that is not the same as seeing it.
 
No, I actually hadn't considered putting a chimney up the side of my house, mostly because I already have a very large pair of them running up the bloody middle of it.
One serves the stove in the basement, the other the wood fireplace in my living room on the main floor. But you would maybe have picked that out of previous posts had you read them, no?

Sorta like the minor detail of leaving the bloody thermostat on wide open pretty much since it was installed.

Yeah. Pictures. Find my camera, I'll post them. In the meantime, close your eyes and imagine what a 8 to 7 inch reducer looks like (tapered, 6 or so inches long, so half inch taper per side), a vertical rise above that, followed by two consecutive 45 degree bends (because the local place didn't have a bloody 90 degree bend), and a horizontal run from there in to a cinder block wall. Should about cover it, no? Somewhere previous, I actually posted measurements.

Same again. I get smoke, because of fresh wood being dropped onto a bed of coals. After the stove has run a while, I can open the door and it sits there just fine. When I put the first stick of wood on the coals though, it starts to puke smoke.

I think you need to punch your grade school teachers in the mouth. They passed you, without your being able to understand what you read.

Cheers
Trev
Negative pressure, or poor draft. Only way to get smoke on reload. Got my popcorn with extra butter waiting on those pics. As a machinist you know details count! Help us help you.
 
0p=
I've never run a BK (or any cat stove for that matter) but it sticks out to me that the air is being left wide open all the time...I know on the tube stoves I have run, they put out more heat when throttled down (once the secondary burn is stabilized)
I wonder what happens when this unit is throttled down? And does running the stove wide open all the time damage anything...like maybe the cats cooked? (I know, I know, there's a chinese food joke in there somewhere's)

Gonna find out. Cooled the stove off today while I went woodhunting. Last loaded it last night at about 10:00 PM. By this aft., it was cool enough to rake through the ash with my fingers, if quickly.

Just relit a short while ago. Locked the lever over to the cat when it reached the active zone, is currently up near the top of that gauge. Temp control right now is set lower than I usually turn it down to at night.

70 pounds total, of fir that is reading sub-10 percent (I have my doubts about the 5 % readings, even if they DID repeat!), up to 17 percent at surface. Falled late this morning, split soon after, and hauled in to my wood box about 45 minutes after that. Standing dead fir, bark falling off,nice big check visible from ground level, a bit punky around the outside down low, but that will work fine in the fireplace. Another 'too nice to cut up' tree. so white I thought it was Pine.

Cheers
Trev
 
You can't give moisture readings just after cutting. It is repeated ad nauseum in this thread the wood needs to be freshly split at room temperature for overnight. You are yet to demonstrate even doing this after 10 pages of inquiry. If you want help, respond to the help.
 
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The OP is not happy with the biggest and best performing stove on the market (in my opinion and many others) I seriously doubt he will be happy with any EPA stove or furnace for that matter. Some people just can't get past the massive amount of heat produced from these old smoke dragons. They were inefficient, but heated like crazy. Most people welcome the lessened wood consumption, long burn times, and the even heat distribution, but some people are only looking for big heat and that's it. Often the home is bleeding Btu's so rather than weather seal the home they just let that old stove eat gobs of wood. I think this is one of those situations.

I have spent somewhere near $800-$1000 out of pocket trying to sort out the various air bleeds around this house. A new door, lots of weatherstripping, several new high E windows, and so on. Pretty high buck to spend to lower my utility costs in a rental!

It ain't no R-2000 home, that's for sure. But this isn't Northern Alberta either.

And the advice I got here? Open a window!

Now, as much as I understand the reasoning behind it, which is to do with the pressures of the hot air attempting to rise and working against a draft on this stove that pretty much seems about as powerful as the fart of a guy that has been freight-trained by the entire Pride parade, this house was set up from the start to use what I had, more or less, and is ill equipped to deal with what I have. The cold air return was essentially meant to travel in via the stairwell from above, while warm air was supposed to be circulated by the blower. Thus, no negative pressure mass in the basement. In theory.

Wood, I have. 800+ acres to pick over, just of the private land, plus about triple that again in crown/public land above. Yeah. I am 'that' guy I guess.

I am looking for a lot of heat. This stove is what I was sold when I was told what I actually wanted (steel box, black, big door, BIG inside) was not going to happen.

Not BS'ing anyone. I was sold this stove, it wasn't that I walked in there saying I want that, this and the other. I discussed the chimney, I discussed the thimble on the chimney, and was assured it would work.

My choices were legs, ash box, or neither, so I have neither, as that was my best of the three options.

It got me a stove that was closer to the ground ( which got me a larger rise to the thimble too), but as someone pointed out, it's my fault for choosing that, if I didn't want to have to knee down to see, rather than it being a bit of a strange (in my opinion) engineering decision to eat 2 or more inches off the top of the door's height to accommodate the cat housing.
I have been told outright that the conversations I had at the dealer, could not have happened, if they had any knowledge at all, yet I have also been told I should have talked to them if I was not happy.

It's been an interesting combination of mixed messages, as well as outright reading comprehension failures (assuming that the posts prior to the writers were actually read).

Yeah. I know what assuming gets me. But I generally assume folks are not stupid, until they prove it isn't just ignorance. There is a cure for ignorance. Stupid, we just have to try to stop from hurting anyone. Esp. me. :)

Cheers
Trev
 
Is the chimney (flue) that the stove is connected to only connected to the stove and is it otherwise sealed? Or is there some other source of "air bypass" that could be resulting in a reduction of the draft up the chimney? from either below the stove or above it. This will make a big difference. The air being pulled up the chimney to create the draft will come from the point of least resistance. If the point of least resistance is an open ash clean-out, or a poorly sealed stove/thimble/chimney connection or an opening in the flue on another level of the house, the resulting draft at the stove will be reduced. This could lead to the symptoms of back-puffing and minimal heat generation/ lackluster performance the OP is describing.

It comes off the top of the stove and runs up, 90 degrees (2x 45 degrees, in reality) a horizontal run in to the wall, then straight up to daylight, a couple feet above the peak of the top floor roof. Basement, Main floor, top floor, with the sloped in roof being the walls of the top floor. No other connections.

Cheers
Trev
 
Not BS'ing anyone. I was sold this stove, it wasn't that I walked in there saying I want that, this and the other. I discussed the chimney, I discussed the thimble on the chimney, and was assured it would work.


Cheers
Trev
after you post pics id go raise hell at the dealer if I were you. Then have them come check out your setup, show them you installed it how you described to them and them telling you it would work with your setup, and if they do their due diligence with testing draft etc and everything is up to snuff you should get a refund. I've never had good luck seasoning logs in log form. Dead standing is log form. Split, stacked and top covered for a year plus depending on species has always worked best for me. It may help you too.
 
Bottom line here whether the OP keeps his BK or moves on to something like a Pacific Energy Summit, Drolet or what ever brand, for peace of mind and to ensure any stove and installation he will end up with will be problem free it requires elimination of any possible or potential problem with the chimney because he is going from a old free flowing smoker / polluter which burned and ran unrestricted to anything that has to be EPA certified which is a totally different animal and transformed burning / heating world. Although frustrating for him presently some time and money requires to be invested to make sure any new stove and installation will work optimally and heat his basement and home. Any problems that arises in 6 months, 1 year, 5 years down the road will obviously be more costly to resolve then right now.

I am no expert by any means but can not believe that the new BKK stove he purchased is not capable of heating so strongly it chases him out of his own basement, which I am sure he will be pleased with and appreciative of when this does happen.

Hopefully with the help and cooperation of his dealer they will resolve all issues with his actual new stove and installation.

It would be just incredibly maddening for the OP to get rid of the BK and take a loss on it, purchase a new stove of $2000.00, spend $$ on the install and face a chimney and draft problem again using another new EPA stove.

Thank you for giving me the credit.

At this point, I am educating myself to be able to have the conversation with my dealer. as I stated earlier, I wish to not only be able to put actual facts on the table (besides that I am annoyed with what he sold me), and even more so, to be able to decide if that conversation is required, or simply that I chose poorly. Hey, nobody bloody well twisted my arm. But I trusted. So I learn.

And yeah, I think maddening wouldn't half describe it.

Cheers
Trev
 
I very much would want to use a furnace as a space heater for my shop area. Mostly because the wood furnaces are capable of much higher output than any EPA stove. The wood furnace pictured above, the drolet, has an 1800 CFM blower with a large heat exchanger where the actual flue pipe snakes back and forth through the forced air stream, and the 4.9 CF firebox is completely within the blower cabinet too. Oh and they are thermostatically controlled so no fiddling with the damper.

The OP Trev should remove the intake hood above his stove in any case. The intake can still be in the same room as the wood furnace. Or, a very small separate duct system can be added just through the floor above to dump some or all of the wood furnace heat into the living area.

I understand the risks and consequences, but for now, will choose to live with them, at least, until I can discuss them face to face with the Inspector.
This place is so far from airtight, while I wouldn't actually run a gas BBQ in my living room, I am not completely sure I couldn't. :/

Cheers
Trev
 
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