rossco...is that a Dolmar or Husqy in your avatar?
I don't think so.Sounds expensive to me. I think I paid less than that for my Ashford 30 in enamel finish with fan kit.
I don't think so.
$2,800 sounds right on if that included the panels and blower.
North Idaho Energy Logs. But I got 18 cords of maple cut up and stacked for the future...
I've run out of my 15% wood. The stuff in my woodshed, with a fresh split, shows a moisture content of 24.5%. Is that too green to burn in the Ashford? If not, should I run it hotter to prevent creosote buildup? Or do I need to go out and buy duralogs or something of that nature?
I've run out of my 15% wood. The stuff in my woodshed, with a fresh split, shows a moisture content of 24.5%. Is that too green to burn in the Ashford? If not, should I run it hotter to prevent creosote buildup? Or do I need to go out and buy duralogs or something of that nature?
Would have to split and measure every piece to find its moisture content. How low does it need to be?
FWIW I paid about 4200 for my Ashford 30 with the fan kit and another 150 for the delivery guys to bring it upstairs. Shipping to Alaska is crazy expensive, butter (also shipped up from the lower 48) was up to $6/ pound a couple years ago.
I haven't tried wood with MC over 16% in my Ashford 30 yet. 16% is OK but the 13% MC as called for in the manual is "better". I don't have hard data like x number of BTUs for y amount of hours and so on, but imagine a 1969 whatever muscle car that needs the carb cleaned out and new points and plugs and wires. Getting from 16 to 13% MC is the same as before and after. Might only be worth a couple tenths in the quarter mile, but it just runs noticeably better.
I will try some 20% MC in my Ashford when I find some.
ASA 200 was/is a setting my digital SLR. Its actually ISO200, but this in one place where the metric people just went with the existing imperial standard. I learned to shoot on slide film and I really really miss shooting Fuji Provia at ASA 100, but I am not going back to analogue. I would need a much more expensive DSLR to get a ISO100 setting.
I don't know what kind of draft you guys have but once a load starts catching, if my stoves spend any appreciable amount of time at WOT, the tee will be glowing orange in short order and the stove top won't be too far behind. An hour and a half?? You're kidding, right?!!There would be a pool of molten steel in my basement by then. Maybe your wood's not all that dry...
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I later remembered that the BK WOT was done with the bypass closed. Still, on the Dw the baffle would be glowing orange, on the Keystone the cat scoop would, even on half a load. Both stove tops would over-fire soon after. Kinda defeats the purpose of having a wood-saving, clean-burning cat stove if you are gonna waste a load smoke-bombing the 'hood once a week with a big, stinky creo fire.I spent 1 hour on 3 with a little less than a half load and all was well.
I later remembered that the BK WOT was done with the bypass closed. Still, on the Dw the baffle would be glowing orange, on the Keystone the cat scoop would, even on half a load. Both stove tops would over-fire soon after. Kinda defeats the purpose of having a wood-saving, clean-burning cat stove if you are gonna waste a load smoke-bombing the 'hood once a week with a big, stinky creo fire.![]()
Oh, I could bomb the 'hood with creo stench if I chose to; Plenty of it in my cat stoves, too.Ahh, your just jelous cause you can't and we can![]()
I later remembered that the BK WOT was done with the bypass closed. Still, on the Dw the baffle would be glowing orange, on the Keystone the cat scoop would, even on half a load. Both stove tops would over-fire soon after. Kinda defeats the purpose of having a wood-saving, clean-burning cat stove if you are gonna waste a load smoke-bombing the 'hood once a week with a big, stinky creo fire.![]()
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