Whitfield died?

[Stovensen]

Bug's, first you need to scrape away all the conductive silver paint and don't use this again. It is only for emergency repair of low power circuitry like audio preamps, mixers etc. It is not approved for medium to high power circuits carrying line voltage, where the components may get hot. Soldering is necessary here.
An X-Acto knife is not an ideal scraping tool for delicate operations like this: The blade should be slightly curved and the long handle is in the way, when working in narrow spaces.
Many years ago I found the ideal scraper tool at the local pharmacy. They are razor sharp and with a piece of tape wrapped around the far end, you have perfect grip on it:


Fabrication of the anchor plate:



a single square cut from an experimental board like this will be perfect as anchor plate for the triac on the opposite side of the components.
You can see the measure on the vernier caliper: 0.293" . The modular hole-distance should be the same as the board and triac.
There should be space for it between the adjacent traces. The area should now be cleaned well with some acetone to remove the green protective paint and the square glued to the board. The new triac can be used as a guide to align the holes.

Now let us look at the component side:



This sketch is intended as a kind of "x-ray view" through the board in order to get the idea of what my "double-to-single sided conversion" is about. You see where to drill with a 1mm drill bit from the anchor plate side and the traces that must be connected through the holes. It should be possible to make at least four holes without hitting/touching anything unwanted. Through these four holes you now have contact to the other side. The copper wires should be fairly thick ( 1 mm will be perfect ). They must be strong enough to serve both as conductors and anchor wires for the anchor plate on the other side. My drawing skills are lousy, I know, but I hope you get my idea?
This way you could convert the mounting area from double sided to single sided = much easier soldering. And the triac will be mounted safely.

 

[Mt Bob]

Bug's, first you need to scrape away all the conductive silver paint and don't use this again. It is only for emergency repair of low power circuitry like audio preamps, mixers etc. It is not approved for medium to high power circuits carrying line voltage, where the components may get hot. Soldering is necessary here.
An X-Acto knife is not an ideal scraping tool for delicate operations like this: The blade should be slightly curved and the long handle is in the way, when working in narrow spaces.
Many years ago I found the ideal scraper tool at the local pharmacy. They are razor sharp and with a piece of tape wrapped around the far end, you have perfect grip on it:
View attachment 217540

Fabrication of the anchor plate:
View attachment 217541


a single square cut from an experimental board like this will be perfect as anchor plate for the triac on the opposite side of the components.
You can see the measure on the vernier caliper: 0.293" . The modular hole-distance should be the same as the board and triac.
There should be space for it between the adjacent traces. The area should now be cleaned well with some acetone to remove the green protective paint and the square glued to the board. The new triac can be used as a guide to align the holes.

Now let us look at the component side:

View attachment 217542

This sketch is intended as a kind of "x-ray view" through the board in order to get the idea of what my "double-to-single sided conversion" is about. You see where to drill with a 1mm drill bit from the anchor plate side and the traces that must be connected through the holes. It should possible be make at least four holes without hitting/touching anything unwanted. Through these four holes you now have contact to the other side. The copper wires should be fairly thick ( 1 mm will be perfect ). They must be strong enough to serve both as conductors and anchor wires for the anchor plate on the other side. My drawing skills are lousy, I know, but I hope you get my idea?
This way you could convert the mounting area from double sided to single sided = much easier soldering. And the triac will be mounted safely.

LOL Wow you are teaching class,here,LOL,Nothing wrong with that,just havin fun with you.If was my board,dab of solder to hold in place,several strands of thin copper wire to connecting points,overlay with solder.But I do have a very nice surface and hot air solder station,so is easy for me.

 

[Stovensen]

LOL Wow you are teaching class,here,LOL,Nothing wrong with that,just havin fun with you

That's ok, Bob, lol. Electronics was my trade for many years and I guess it will always be as long as I live. Now I'm just an old retired man sitting next to a humming Whitfield stove enjoying all the nice heat it throws out on this cooold night. What's your trade Bob?

 

[Mt Bob]

That's ok, Bob, lol. Electronics was my trade for many years and I guess it will always be as long as I live. Now I'm just an old retired man sitting next to a humming Whitfield stove enjoying all the nice heat it throws out on this cooold night. What's your trade Bob?

I was a mechanic,Dad was an electrician,ran the elec. dept at a cement plant,and I have dabbled in electronics since a kid.Also I am a ham radio buff.

 

[Stovensen]

I was a mechanic,Dad was an electrician,ran the elec. dept at a cement plant,and I have dabbled in electronics since a kid.Also I am a ham radio buff.

Cool, now we are a small club here of grown up people with many similar interests, lol. I have always repaired my cars all by myself, motor overhaul, welding, electrics, all except paint jobs.
And recently I bought a motorcycle again after a pause of almost 40 years.

 

[Ssyko]

<=== taking notes

 

[stellep]

Hey Stovensen and Bob Bare. I do a lot of the same things as you guys. In fact, I have the same caliper as Stovensen.
Must mean something.

 

[Bugs]

I will stop by fry’s and see if they have the supplies needed. What is best way to cut square from board ?

Sounds like we all have similar interests Ham radio, old classic cars, and pretty much anything that challenges the mind.
My biggest problem is eye sight, I have a lighted magnifying glass with 3x glasses but it’s still a challenge
Can’t wait to get the old girl running again, been beautiful out but getting into the 20 and low 30’s here in Oregon.

 

[Stovensen]

Hey Stovensen and Bob Bare. I do a lot of the same things as you guys. In fact, I have the same caliper as Stovensen.
Must mean something.

Hey stellep, nice to hear from you. I'll start a thread on our calipers in the inglenook section, so we don't derail Bug's thread. Yes, it could mean something, spiritualwise. Could be interesting to explore. Down-to-earth-wise we certainly could give our reviews: Digital vs. traditional caliper. I also have some pictures of my new motorcycle, if anyone is interested.See ya in the inglenook.

 

[Stovensen]

What is best way to cut square from board ?

The base of the experimental board appears to be made of pertinax ( phenolic paper ), so it can be machined by drilling, sawing, milling and hot punching. Cold punching and shearing are not recommended, as they leave a ragged edge and tend to cause cracking and so does cutting with a wire cutter.

Ideal for us DIY'ers will be this tool:

Sounds like we all have similar interests Ham radio, old classic cars, and pretty much anything that challenges the mind

I'll start a thread in the inglenook section with pictures of my new motorcycle and other interesting stuff. See ya.

My biggest problem is eye sight, I have a lighted magnifying glass with 3x glasses but it’s still a challenge

My eye sight is also challenged when making solderings on small items etc.. I cannot work without this clock makers loupe. Not me on the pic.

Can’t wait to get the old girl running again, been beautiful out but getting into the 20 and low 30’s here in Oregon

Neither can we. Temps are getting low around you.

Good luck and take care. Keep posting

 

[Bugs]

The base of the experimental board appears to be made of pertinax ( phenolic paper ), so it can be machined by drilling, sawing, milling and hot punching. Cold punching and shearing are not recommended, as they leave a ragged edge and tend to cause cracking and so does cutting with a wire cutter.

Ideal for us DIY'ers will be this tool:
View attachment 217591

That’s what I was going to use. I think I still have a couple disks


I'll start a thread in the inglenook section with pictures of my new motorcycle and other interesting stuff. See ya.

My bike is the red one in my sig. will have to find the thread to see yours.


My eye sight is also challenged when making solderings on small items etc.. I cannot work without this clock makers loupe. Not me on the pic.
View attachment 217592




Neither can we. Temps are getting low around you.

I here ya, I’m sure this thread is getting old for some, but I still greatly appreciate the help.

Good luck and take care. Keep posting

I’m amazed at all the hams out there.

 

[Ssyko]

I don’t get bored with threads like this. Im here for the duration. I am not in the ham club but i do fall into the Car/bike club.

 

[Bugs]

I know it isn’t pretty, but this is what I have done so far to prepare to install triac 5. The trace for the center hole is still there just lifted out of it’s original spot, I pushed it into the hole and believe it will stay,I still need to fix the closest hole as you can see the trace fall short of the hole.
On the back I have glued the piece on between the traces and the triac slide through fine.
Let me know if you see any issues before I solder.
Thank you.

 

[Bugs]

This is a better pic.

 

[Ssyko]

Oh hell yeah looks good bugs.

 

[Ssyko]

I have used a single strand of coppr wire to loop around legs of components to repair traces. On 120v side i used cat5 single solid wire.

 

[Stovensen]

View attachment 217716

This is a better pic.

Yes, this is a lot better. And now we clearly see that the damage is not at all that bad. Only the solder pad and trace connected to Main Terminal 2 needs repair with a longer copper wire looped around the triac pin ( as suggested by Ssyko ). Maybe it gets so long that a dab of glue is needed to secure it to the surface? Just to be safe. Afterall the auger voltage is 120V/60Hz.
The Gate terminal is so close to the broken trace that a short piece of copper wire looped around the Gate pin on the triac also can make a secure connection here.
Solder pad for Main Terminal 1 appears totally undamaged.
No need to drill any holes to get in electrical contact to the anchor plate.
I hope you have a tip to your Weller that can solder in narrow places like the ST7 here:


The following procedure is actually quite important to ensure precise positioning:

Remember to pre-tin the points to get soldered. That way only a short burst of heat is needed to make the final solder. And you have one hand free to guide critical items in exact place with a tweezer, when you don't have to add tin during the final solder.
During the pretinning you can also verify that the tin is flowing as it should to get perfect contact. If not, maybe some more flux is needed to clean the metal surface. Scraping some more can be necessary.

 

[Mt Bob]

I never pre tin small components,was not taught that way.I never would have made the board support,but it is proper,if you think the board is good and will need another repair,I have used low temp solder paste,for surface mount,to repair a board like that,to run solder down a few strands of copper wire,as jumpers.But really is no wrong way,as long as it works!

 

[Bugs]

This is becoming the board from hell, put the new triac in as suggested before putting it back in protective case I plugged it in, yay worked... put the cover on plugged it in hmmm no auger looked like the trace to the center pole was thin added a little solder to reinforce, plugged it in auger runs continuously:-( looked it over with glass can’t find anything obvious I’m thinking maybe solder ran together between the board and added piece of board shorting two pins ?

 

[Ssyko]

Did you superglue the anchor piece onto the board? I would think the glue would have insulated the areas between the holes. I could be wrong. Hey the fuse didnt blow

 

[Stovensen]

looked it over with glass can’t find anything obvious I’m thinking maybe solder ran together between the board and added piece of board shorting two pins ?

Bugs, we are equally challenged in our eyesight, since we're both in our 60's. I can fully put myself in your place, but you have to have both hands free and a sharp focused view of the small items, while working and inspecting.
I just took a virtual tour inside your local Fry's Electronics. ( wow, that's a huge place! ), but all I could find was this "Elenco LED Magnifying Lamp With Third Hand".
$42 is a bit pricy, and it has many functions that you probably already have:
https://www.frys.com/product/9369940?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG

This watchmaker's loupe is universal and will enable you a sharp focused view and both hands free. I cannot make these critical operations without it, so I have bought two of them, in case one disappears. X5 magnification!
They have it at my local electronic's shop for DKK 59,- ( app. $9 ). They have a webshop. You can probably find it somewhere around you, but it may take time.
I'm sure the guys in my electronics shop would raise their eyebrows, if they received an order from Oregon, USA But included shipping costs + shipping time it may not be an option. They still have 22 items in stock:
https://elektronik-lavpris.dk/p119451/bn204768-urmager-lup-x5/

Hey the fuse didnt blow

That's the spirit, Ssyko. Positive thinking is the key to success

 

[stellep]

Possibly you got super glue on the contacts?

 

[Bugs]

Yes I did super glue the anchor, test fit everything. I have a table mounted magnified lamp, plus my 3x reading glasses.
It’s just weird that when I finished the original soldering and plugged it in, it was working! Put the cover on and it wasn’t? Added some solder to the center terminal. And now continuous.
I’ll look it over carefully today and see if I missed something.
I guess the good news is my soldering is getting better
I could not have done any of this without the great help I’ve received.
Thank you all.

 

[Ssyko]

Bugs do you have a solder sucker? Maybe remove some from the center terminal from the bottom?

 

[Rickenbackerman]

Bugs would you mind posting up the part # for the triacs you're usings? For those of us out there whose boards currently work but for future reference in case of trouble...