Ok, what do I need to make my saw cut better?

[nola mike]

Drive link has "72 "stamp on it.

 

[Dairyman]

Drive link has "72 "stamp on it.

Then its 72 dp. 3/8 .050 gauge semi chisel.

 

[nola mike]

So, based on that and/or the pic, what would this chain be comparable to? Because it kicks the crap out of the OEM stuff on the husky...

 

[Dairyman]

It would be comparable to Stihls 33RM3 or carlton A1EP-BL. Full size 3/8 will always out perform the smaller sizes so long as the saw has the power to pull it.

 

[nola mike]

So that's anti kickback? I thought this was 20+ years old at least

 

[Dairyman]

So that's anti kickback? I thought this was 20+ years old at least

Low kickback chains have been sold since the mid 70's.

(broken link removed to http://www.oregonproducts.com/pro/company/history.htm)

 

[CTYank]

{snip]
* Periodically check and sharpen teeth to equal length. After many sharpening with a particular chain, one side of the cutters or individual teeth, will begin to vary in length causing vibration and stress to chain and saw. Use micrometer to measure and locate the longest teeth (right and left side). Sharpen until all teeth same same length. Makes a big difference.
[snip]

IME of about 40 yrs, matching cutter lengths is a waste of time. File each cutter just enough to get it sharp to the touch, and move on. So long as they're all sharp, with depth gauges set properly, you're good to go. OTOH if cutters on one side are dull, like from hitting debris, and you insist on cutting with it, you likely will need to level the bar rails. If you get OC about cutter lengths, try a grinder. (Nah, save that for rocked chains. )
IME Granberg file guide (same one since '70s) works great for all chain sizes, and depth gauges, for sharpening with least # of strokes and least metal removal.

 

[woodhog73]

IME of about 40 yrs, matching cutter lengths is a waste of time. File each cutter just enough to get it sharp to the touch, and move on. So long as they're all sharp, with depth gauges set properly, you're good to go.

If I could double like or triple like this comment I would.

I cut a LOT of trees. It's typical for me to be cutting 8 plus hours in the woods and I stop to hand file my chain sometimes twice an hour. I can't stand a dull chain, and any experienced firewood cutter, tree service guy, or timber faller will agree. It takes 5 minutes to cut a notch in a block of wood, set your saw bar in the notch in the woods, and put an edge on your cutters. Totally new saw every 30 minutes. Totally new saw every 1 cord of cutting by a 5 minute field sharpening.

Sure if you have time take a grinder on it. But 99 percent of the time I hand file as fast as possible and move on.

To the OP put any brand full chisel chain on your saw and you will be happy. Keep a sharp edge. Every 4th or 5th hand filing run a flat file one stroke over your rakers. Then go cut. Anything more is probably overthinking it.

 

[Jon1270]

If I could double like or triple like this comment I would.

I cut a LOT of trees. It's typical for me to be cutting 8 plus hours in the woods and I stop to hand file my chain sometimes twice an hour. I can't stand a dull chain, and any experienced firewood cutter, tree service guy, or timber faller will agree. It takes 5 minutes to cut a notch in a block of wood, set your saw bar in the notch in the woods, and put an edge on your cutters. Totally new saw every 30 minutes. Totally new saw every 1 cord of cutting by a 5 minute field sharpening.

Sure if you have time take a grinder on it. But 99 percent of the time I hand file as fast as possible and move on.

To the OP put any brand full chisel chain on your saw and you will be happy. Keep a sharp edge. Every 4th or 5th hand filing run a flat file one stroke over your rakers. Then go cut. Anything more is probably overthinking it.

In contrast, I've seen some tree service guys that can't hand-sharpen, and so keep cutting with dull chains to the point that smoke pours out of the cut from the friction. It's unbelievable how much time some of them waste this way.

 

[CTYank]

In contrast, I've seen some tree service guys that can't hand-sharpen, and so keep cutting with dull chains to the point that smoke pours out of the cut from the friction. It's unbelievable how much time some of them waste this way.

Unfortunately, much too common. Lots more than time is wasted- chain, bar, fuel, engine. Worst case is when one side of cutters is hammered more than the other. Makes for a good circle-cutter once you wear down one of the bar rails.
IMO hand-filing is best done with Granberg guide and maybe a stump vise if you're feeling lazy. For me, at least every other fillup of a big tank- a touch.
I'm surprised some of these goons just don't swap the chain around and run it backwards. Makes as much sense.

 

[Jon1270]

Yep, one of those crews did a bunch of cleanup work on my neighbor's overgrown hillside a couple of weeks ago. I'd agreed to take some of the wood, so I stopped over when they were just getting started. I noticed they had an MS362 with a 3-foot bar and commented that it was twice as much bar as they needed for anything on that hill. The foreman/company owner replied, "Yeah, but it's sharp!" I answered back, "But that one isn't," nodding at a guy running a polesaw that was struggling with a 2" branch. The foreman agreed: "We run 'em until they're reaaalll dull." Then he picked up the 362 by the front handle, took hold of the starter, and pulled the rope while throwing the saw out sideways, top towards himself, with the bar hanging straight down and lined up with his crotch. I... uh... stayed out of the way after that.

 

[nola mike]

What do you guys think of the dremel grinder? I had hand filed, but this seems to do a good job. Certainly not as precise as that granberg, but user friendly for sure.

 

[woodhog73]

Not sure on a dremel grinder

But have you got good round files ? In the correct size ? Hand filing is not too difficult but the files do wear out. You might want to pick up a new file. They sharpen cutters great when they are new.

 

[nola mike]

I have files somewhere, but don't use them. The dremel has a nice little guide that sits on top of the cutters, and an angle guide. Very easy. I have a depth gauge and flat file for the rakers. A file without a jig is pretty tough to get a consistent angle in any direction. Really, what I should do is sharpen my current chain best I can, get a new 95VP for the 20", and compare it to get an idea if my sharpening skills suck (although again, I sharpened the chain on the JD as well).

 

[Dairyman]

What do you guys think of the dremel grinder? I had hand filed, but this seems to do a good job. Certainly not as precise as that granberg, but user friendly for sure.

Some like it. Just don't overheat the cutter. Also monitor the sharpening stones wear. As it deteriorates the angles on the cutter will also. There is an ABN stone available that will last a lot longer. ( I think it will work on a dremel) And keep the gullets cleaned out.

 

[Sean McGillicuddy]

I touch up my chain every once in awhile with this 2 in 1 guide.

This gets me close to where I should be.

 

[Jon1270]

Really, what I should do is sharpen my current chain best I can, get a new 95VP for the 20", and compare it to get an idea if my sharpening skills suck (although again, I sharpened the chain on the JD as well).

I know you said back on the first page that you took down the rakers on the Husky, but I'm wondering if you used a depth gauge or feeler gauge of some sort, or just took a stroke or two off the top and called it good? I don't think you've posted any photos of the sharpened Husky chain; it might help to do so.

 

[nola mike]

I know you said back on the first page that you took down the rakers on the Husky, but I'm wondering if you used a depth gauge or feeler gauge of some sort, or just took a stroke or two off the top and called it good? I don't think you've posted any photos of the sharpened Husky chain; it might help to do so.

Rakers were done with a depth gauge. Here's a couple of pics.

 

[jetsam]

I hand sharpen as I go, once or twice per tank, and take the Granberg to it when I get time (every couple tanks or so). I can't go too long without the granberg because my angles start going all wonky.

 

[CTYank]

I hand sharpen as I go, once or twice per tank, and take the Granberg to it when I get time (every couple tanks or so). I can't go too long without the granberg because my angles start going all wonky.

Yer basically describing my MO for sharpening on saws with big tanks. Wherever I go with a saw for more than a few quick cuts, a Granberg guide with file(s) to suit goes. Period. If "hand sharpen" means "free handing", I'll pass. Great way to futz-up a chain. OTOH, with said guide, every other fillup, a stroke or so per tooth- Done. Even in clean hardwood, that's about as far as full-chisel chain goes. I'm all about lifetime of chain, bar, engine.

In operating a saw, there's a lot to be said for precision, whether in cuts or chain maintenance. Kinda, sorta, maybe- sub-optimum (lousy) IMO.

 

[DUMF]

I touch up my chain every once in awhile with this 2 in 1 guide.
View attachment 188686
This gets me close to where I should be.

Sean nailed it. If you cut in the "woods", and don't or can't hand file, hire someone who can. Not hard to learn BTW.
Shown is the new, fancy version of the Pferd system that in a stroke does the raker and cutter....simple, easy, usable with your handy stump vise.
Don't have a stump vise ? It's as handy as $#^%&@, and you can't go in the field without one.
Forget those grinders, they and you normally 'burn' a chain when used wrong, making the steel soft.
Sooooo---learn to hand file, get the Pferd system ( specific for your chain specs ): licensed to both Stihl and Husky with nice colors.
The older versions take some getting used to. No, I don't have a $$$ stake in Pferd..

 

[maple1]

I just touch up, using only the file. Freehand. No other tools. Never ever felt the need to pack more tools to the woods, such as a vise or filing guide. I check & if needed touch up the rakers once in a while, back home in my cozy basement, with guage & flat file.

Too easy to whip the file out & spend a couple minutes on a touch up, usually doing it when refueling so it's like a break - adding more time & more tools to the process is a bit of a put off & will likely get the sharpening put off too.

 

[DUMF]

I just touch up, using only the file. Freehand. No other tools. Never ever felt the need to pack more tools to the woods, such as a vise or filing guide. I check & if needed touch up the rakers once in a while, back home in my cozy basement, with guage & flat file.
Too easy to whip the file out & spend a couple minutes on a touch up, usually doing it when refueling so it's like a break - adding more time & more tools to the process is a bit of a put off & will likely get the sharpening put off too.

Hey Maple, a stump vise with the Pferd system which is not a "guide" ( simple with a round file WITH a flat file for the rakers). Both fit into big pockets along with your "kit"--wedges, hammer/axe, blood stopper, tournqs, gauzes, oil/gas tool, whistle, Snickers and beer. You do have a kit ?

Check out the Pferd, it's not much more than your file with a handle. And that stump vise is small, just pound it into any stump, clamp the bar, and file away. No more holding the bar between your crotch ( danger ) or into a wobbly groove in a log. Both encourage sharpening...fast, easy, accurate.
The new Pferds ( Stihl or Husky ) have fine colours also ( U.S. = "colors" ).

 

[Handsonautotech]

How about this more budget combo?
Oregon Pro-lite knock off
Oregon LPX chain

That chain costs almost as much as I pay to have my Stihl chains sharpened.

 

[nola mike]

How about the pferd v. Granberg?