550XP or 562XP as a fill in?

[Caw]

I'm still currently deciding between the 550/562 xp mark II models. I rarely do any felling this will be 99% used for bucking 4-5 cords of firewood a year in my driveway. Most of the stuff I get is 14-22" with the very occasional 30" big boy mixed in.

I mentioned it a little bit in another thread but I currently have a 440 with an 18" bar. It gets the job done but it's really just too wimpy for anything 20" plus it takes forever. It's not a bar size issue it's a HP issue it gets bogged down buried in oak as you'd expect from a 40 cc homeowner saw.

I think in ideal world I'd grab the 550 xp mark II with an 18" bar and a 572 xp with a 24" for the big boys and go with the two saw plan but that's not really in my budget. I can only buy one saw this year. That makes the 562 xp mark II 60 cc with an 18 or 20" bar pretty enticing for a one saw plan.

The thing is that 550 xp mark II really rips. It's so much better than the homeowner saws. I had a friend bring his MS 261 over the other day and it destroyed the 30" oak log I had. No problems and only a 50 cc saw. Kind of makes me think given what I'm doing the 550 xp mark II with an 18" is plenty of power. It won't bog down buried in the occasional 30" log and will hot knife through butter all the small stuff, a true lightsaber, while saving some weight. It just seems like a pretty perfect all around saw for my needs. Then if I ever want a toy for super big boys I can pick up a 572 in the future.

What do you think? Leaning 550 xp mark II with an 18" bar. The 440 will be relegated to light limb/unpinching/backup duty.

 

[Ashful]

If you had or bought a 572, then the 440 or 550 would be a great pairing to that saw. But as noted, it's expensive, and if you rarely do over 30 inches, I wouldn't bother with the 572.

If only buying one saw for the usage you describe, it would be 60 - 65 cc, all day every day.

I lived life with only a 50cc saw at one time, and will never do that again. It may be fine when the log is small enough that the nose protrudes, but it's going to suck every time you bury the nose on any bar of reasonable length in oak, or any other real hardwood.

 

[Caw]

If you had or bought a 572, then the 440 or 550 would be a great pairing to that saw. But as noted, it's expensive, and if you rarely do over 30 inches, I wouldn't bother with the 572.

If only buying one saw for the usage you describe, it would be 60 - 65 cc, all day every day.

I lived life with only a 50cc saw at one time, and will never do that again. It may be fine when the log is small enough that the nose protrudes, but it's going to suck every time you bury the nose on any bar of reasonable length in oak, or any other real hardwood.

I imagine 18" on a 562 xp would be lightsaber mode. A 60 cc professional saw should handle 20" no problem for every day use, too. Could put a 24+ on of you wanted to go slow motion.

 

[sloeffle]

I have a 20” bar on my 562XP with full chisel chain on it and it eats dead ash like there’s no tomorrow. I built a 372XP clone over the winter that I just got running. I’m interested to see how it does vs the 562XP. It will probably wear the 24” bar that I’ve used on the 562XP vs the 28” bar I bought for it.

If you are that impressed with the 261, why don’t you look at a 261 ? @brenndatomu is a big fan of that saw. On another forum they said the 550XP is great if you can keep the RPM’s up but once it starts bogging down that’s it. Where the 261 is the exact opposite from what they said. Most people say it’s a toss up between the two.

 

[Caw]

I have a 20” bar on my 562XP with full chisel chain on it and it eats dead ash like there’s no tomorrow. I built a 372XP clone over the winter that I just got running. I’m interested to see how it does vs the 562XP. It will probably wear the 24” bar that I’ve used on the 562XP vs the 28” bar I bought for it.

If you are that impressed with the 261, why don’t you look at a 261 ? @brenndatomu is a big fan of that saw. On another forum they said the 550XP is great if you can keep the RPM’s up but once it starts bogging down that it. Where the 261 is the exact opposite from what they said. Most people say it’s a toss up between the two.

The 261 is a fine saw but I prefer to stick with Husqvarna. I prefer the way it feels in my hand and I have a lot of their other products I'm happy with. The 550/261 seem pretty identical to me.

For the one saw plan I think the 562 with an 18 or 20" bar makes the most sense. It's not that much more expensive than the 550 for a good bit more oomph. For a two saw plan I'd go 550/572 but thats out of my budget and overkill for my needs.

I envision the 562 with an 18" bar being a legit lightsaber. Making lightsaber chainsaw noises as I type lol.

Also I like my wood 16.5-17" so an 18" bar often has 17" exposed from the dogs which makes for easy marking. That's how I do it with my 440.

 

[Ashful]

I imagine 18" on a 562 xp would be lightsaber mode. A 60 cc professional saw should handle 20" no problem for every day use, too. Could put a 24+ on of you wanted to go slow motion.

Every model, and indeed every saw varies, as does its response to your chain grind. I've mentioned before that I use a very aggressive grind on my chains, because I get kicks out of cutting fast and spewing chips the size of playground mulch (slight exaggeration). In any case, on my 63cc pro saw, I found 20" was just a hair more bar than it liked, with the aggressive chain grind, when I'd bury it nose deep in a 30" round of red oak (most of what I was cutting at the time was red oak).

I resolved it by putting big felling dogs on that saw, which reduced the exposed bar length to about 19 inches. That seems about perfect. Yeah, 18" would be real fast, probably never even dropping RPM much at all when fully buried, especially if you run a factory chain grind.

As to this "aggressive grind", it's really nothing that special. I run Stihl RS3 chain, or other brand equivalent full comp full chisel 3/8" chain, whatever the saw shop has on their spools when I go in. I use the factory 30/60/10 degree angles, but I take the depth gauges (what some people call "rakers") down farther than the factory .026". I've played with different depths, often up to .036", which work great if you have the horsepower to pull it. This increased cut also increases vibration a little, no big deal with an AV saw, and increases grabbiness around the tip. I'm used to all of that, I've been running this grind profile for about 10 years now.

 

[Caw]

Every model, and indeed every saw varies, as does its response to your chain grind. I've mentioned before that I use a very aggressive grind on my chains, because I get kicks out of cutting fast and spewing chips the size of playground mulch (slight exaggeration). In any case, on my 63cc pro saw, I found 20" was just a hair more bar than it liked, with the aggressive chain grind, when I'd bury it nose deep in a 30" round of red oak (most of what I was cutting at the time was red oak).

I resolved it by putting big felling dogs on that saw, which reduced the exposed bar length to about 19 inches. That seems about perfect. Yeah, 18" would be real fast, probably never even dropping RPM much at all when fully buried, especially if you run a factory chain grind.

As to this "aggressive grind", it's really nothing that special. I run Stihl RS3 chain, or other brand equivalent full comp full chisel 3/8" chain, whatever the saw shop has on their spools when I go in. I use the factory 30/60/10 degree angles, but I take the depth gauges (what some people call "rakers") down farther than the factory .026". I've played with different depths, often up to .036", which work great if you have the horsepower to pull it. This increased cut also increases vibration a little, no big deal with an AV saw, and increases grabbiness around the tip. I'm used to all of that, I've been running this grind profile for about 10 years now.

Yeah that makes sense. I'm familiar with the different chains and filing more aggressively. I probably won't do that though. I'll likely just run a standard 3/8 factory full chisel chain that I'll hand file nice and sharp keeping the rakers appropriately filed. I appreciate what you're doing but don't have the super aggressive need for speed. I just like to keep my chain extra sharp.

I'm also cutting 90% red oak in the sizes I mentioned (14-22", occasional 30"). An 18" bar will fly through but it seems to me the 562 should be able to pull a 20" bar with a sharp factory chain through anything buried, too. Given the chain isn't cutting as much as you are.

I'm not sure how much I'm really gaining going to 20". Going 18 to 24 sure but just 2"? Meh. The occasional log I'll be able to buck in one cut instead of having to nip it on the back side to finish. I'm not sure that's really worth anything time wise and it just adds weight. Having more power on an 18" could save more time overall. Never dropping rpm is pretty luxurious.

 

[Ashful]

I think it would probably pull 20" with a factory grind just fine. It's basically the same displacement as my 036 PRO, and something like 4.70 hp compared to my older saw's 4.42 hp, so something like 6% more power.

But if you think you might want a 24" bar for occasional use anyway, and if 18" isn't so short that you'd have to change it too frequently, I'd lean toward doing 18" and 24" bars. Like you said, 18" would be almost lightsaber mode on the 562, with a factory grind.

I do the same with my 85cc saw. I run a 28" bar will full comp full chisel on my 064 AV, and that saw is a total screamer with "only" 28 inches of bar on it. But have a 36" that I can swap to on those occasions when I need it. I run skip chain on the 36", since it takes less to pull that, and I'm never using that bar for cutting anything small. I don't need 48 cutters in the kerf, when I bury the nose on that long bar!

 

[Caw]

I think it would probably pull 20" with a factory grind just fine. It's basically the same displacement as my 036 PRO, and something like 4.70 hp compared to my older saw's 4.42 hp, so something like 6% more power.

But if you think you might want a 24" bar for occasional use anyway, and if 18" isn't so short that you'd have to change it too frequently, I'd lean toward doing 18" and 24" bars. Like you said, 18" would be almost lightsaber mode on the 562, with a factory grind.

I do the same with my 85cc saw. I run a 28" bar will full comp full chisel on my 064 AV, and that saw is a total screamer with "only" 28 inches of bar on it. But have a 36" that I can swap to on those occasions when I need it. I run skip chain on the 36", since it takes less to pull that, and I'm never using that bar for cutting anything small. I don't need 48 cutters in the kerf, when I bury the nose on that long bar!

Yeah I think for my one saw plan we've narrowed it down nicely. Grab a 562 xp mark II with an 18" for regular use and I can grab a 24" to throw on when I have something that warrants it. It would only be like 2-4 logs a year. It'll be a little slow but pull it just fine for once in a while use.

I still think I'd be in with a 550/18" but the 562 just makes more sense for not much more $.

Thanks for the help!

 

[Ashful]

You won't be sorry. I've never handled a 562XP, but I've got hundreds and hundreds of hours on my Stihl 036 PRO, predecessor to the current competing MS362. It's a great size for all-around use, big enough for almost anything most firewood cutters encounter, while not being too heavy. If I recall, the 036 is a good bit lighter than the MS362, and I bet the 562XP is similar weight to the 036.

Plus, if I recall, you already have a 40cc saw? Great pairing with, or even emergency backup to, the 60cc saw. Of course, you could also ebay/C'list that 40cc saw, and replace it with a 30cc top handle, next!

 

[Caw]

Quick research says the 036 pro was 12.4 lbs, 362 is 12.8 lbs, and the 562 weighs 13.4 lbs. They aren't super clear whether that's just the power head or equipped weight so it's all pretty simialr. Even if it's a tad heavier it's not too bad. I'm just lugging the saw from the shed to my driveway, not through the woods, and I'm rarely cutting for more than a couple hours at a time so an extra lb isn't the end of the world

I have my 440 but I'll be keeping it for sure. It only weighs 9.7 lbs and is perfect for limbing and smaller jobs around the yard. No need to break out the 60 cc to cut up some downed branches etc. Also that 440 and I have been though a lot together I couldn't just trade it in. It's been good to me.

 

[Ashful]

Stihl weights are all listed on their site and manuals as "powerhead only". I suspect Husqvarna is the same, but haven't verified.

I'm honestly surprised the 562XP is so much heavier. Husqvarna's historic path was to build lighter than Stihl, at same horsepower and displacement. Most negative press I've seen from arborists regarding Husqvarna is all about durability or ruggedness, never weight.

Folks love the MS-362, but I honestly don't get it. The 036 was better in every way, IMO. Same with 064 or 066 versus newer MS-66x, the older ones had higher power to weight ratios, if I recall. I adore my old 064 AV, it must be one of the highest power/weight ratio saws Stihl ever made.

 

[EbS-P]

I’m of the opinion everyone NEEDs a 90cc class saw I love mine! Zero issues and it’s been run HARD on a mill.
https://www.farmertec.com/92cc-Holz...parts-are-For-MS660-066-Chainsaw-p692245.html

your one saw plan is exactly what I’d choose and I’d have a loop full skip semi chisel for each bar too for the really dirty stuff you know will dull a chain fast. Keeps the rpm’s up in the big stuff. Faster to sharpen.

 

[Caw]

Guys I just want to lightsaber some firewood!

 

[Caw]

I’m of the opinion everyone NEEDs a 90cc class saw I love mine! Zero issues and it’s been run HARD on a mill.
https://www.farmertec.com/92cc-Holzfforma®-Blue-Thunder-G660-Gasoline-Chain-Saw-Power-Head-Without-Guide-Bar-and-Chain-Top-Quality-By-Farmertec-All-parts-are-For-MS660-066-Chainsaw-p692245.html

your one saw plan is exactly what I’d choose and I’d have a loop full skip semi chisel for each bar too for the really dirty stuff you know will dull a chain fast. Keeps the rpm’s up in the big stuff. Faster to sharpen.

I don't have much experience with skip chains. Can you elaborate why you'd choose that route? I typically just cut with standard semi chisel on my say and my dad's MS 250 has a full chisel on it. I have no problem with semi chisel it cuts plenty fast for me. I'm pro speed but not at the cost of increased risk with crazy chains.

 

[Ashful]

Okay, worth defining terms, here. You probably already know this, but just so everyone can follow along:

Skip chain just means they don't have a cutter on every second driver. Some skips leave out every other cutter, as in B-L-B-R-B-L-B-R, and some just leave out one cutter between each left/right pair, as in B-L-R-B-L-R, where "B" = "blank".

Semi-chisel vs. full chisel has nothing to do with cutter count or skip, but with cutter shape. Full chisel has a tooth with a sharp right angle, viewed in cross section, whereas semi-chisel looks like a question mark "?" when viewed in cross section.

Then there's square-grind chain, which is generally full chisel profile, but sharpened perpendicular to the bar, rather than the usual 30'ish degrees.

So, three variables, for a given pitch and size of chain:

1. skip vs. full-comp
2. tooth shape (semi vs. full-chisel)
3. grind

Full-chisel generally out-performs semi-chisel, and it's what you should be running, Caw. The only reason anyone would ever want to run semi-chisel is that it can take more of a beating, from inexperienced homeowners who put it into the dirt, or don't know how to sharpen. It has a place, but it's not with any dedicated firewood cutter. It's good to hand to a homeowner who's going to run the thing on odd jobs for three years, before asking how to sharpen it.

Full comp vs. skip is a different matter. Skip just means bigger gaps between cutters, with full comp having 1-1/2" (4 rivets) between cutters on 3/8" chain. You always want at least a few cutters in the kerf, to prevent grabbing and stalling, so full comp can pretty nicely cut anything over 3" diameter. I'm sure you've noticed the way the saw just grabs at anything under that 1-1/2" diameter threshold, as the branch can land on the chain between cutters. Skip chain can have twice the distance between cutters, or 3" gaps, meaning it's pretty grabby on kerf much under 6"... but it can really fly through big stuff, as it bogs the saw less, dragging all those cutters thru a long kerf.

If I were buying a 562XP, it'd be 18" full chisel full comp, yellow chain. My secondary bar would be 24" or 28" full chisel yellow skip chain. Yellow chain cuts faster, and is no less safe when used properly, but does have higher kickback potential if you're careless enough to touch the top quadrant of the bar to something, before the bar is buried.

 

[EbS-P]

I don't have much experience with skip chains. Can you elaborate why you'd choose that route? I typically just cut with standard semi chisel on my say and my dad's MS 250 has a full chisel on it. I have no problem with semi chisel it cuts plenty fast for me. I'm pro speed but not at the cost of increased risk with crazy chains.

Less cutter to sharpen, less drag = more rpm, semi chisel while not as fast won’t dull as quick. It’s all about chain speed. My two cents when you want to cut wood bigger than your displacement would recommend.

I can pull a 40-42” cut with a 90 cc Chinese saw,keeping it in the power band with sharp full skip and rakers set to taller than stock. Anyone I asked said I was stupid and would burn the saw up.

Your 18”and 24” plan sounds great I’d do the exact thing and a loop of skip for the 24” probably a 28” light weight…..

Okay, worth defining terms, here. You probably already know this, but just so everyone can follow along:

Skip chain just means they don't have a cutter on every second driver. Some skips leave out every other cutter, as in B-L-B-R-B-L-B-R, and some just leave out one cutter between each left/right pair, as in B-L-R-B-L-R, where "B" = "blank".

Semi-chisel vs. full chisel has nothing to do with cutter count or skip, but with cutter shape. Full chisel has a tooth with a sharp right angle, viewed in cross section, whereas semi-chisel looks like a question mark "?" when viewed in cross section.

Then there's square-grind chain, which is generally full chisel profile, but sharpened perpendicular to the bar, rather than the usual 30'ish degrees.

So, three variables, for a given pitch and size of chain:

1. skip vs. full-comp
2. tooth shape (semi vs. full-chisel)
3. grind

Full-chisel generally out-performs semi-chisel, and it's what you should be running, Caw. The only reason anyone would ever want to run semi-chisel is that it can take more of a beating, from inexperienced homeowners who put it into the dirt, or don't know how to sharpen. It has a place, but it's not with any dedicated firewood cutter. It's good to hand to a homeowner who's going to run the thing on odd jobs for three years, before asking how to sharpen it.

Full comp vs. skip is a different matter. Skip just means bigger gaps between cutters, with full comp having 1-1/2" (4 rivets) between cutters on 3/8" chain. You always want at least a few cutters in the kerf, to prevent grabbing and stalling, so full comp can pretty nicely cut anything over 3" diameter. I'm sure you've noticed the way the saw just grabs at anything under that 1-1/2" diameter threshold, as the branch can land on the chain between cutters. Skip chain can have twice the distance between cutters, or 3" gaps, meaning it's pretty grabby on kerf much under 6"... but it can really fly through big stuff, as it bogs the saw less, dragging all those cutters thru a long kerf.

If I were buying a 562XP, it'd be 18" full chisel full comp, yellow chain. My secondary bar would be 24" or 28" full chisel yellow skip chain. Yellow chain cuts faster, and is no less safe when used properly, but does have higher kickback potential if you're careless enough to touch the top quadrant of the bar to something, before the bar is buried.

Well said.

 

[Caw]

Thanks guys I appreciate the insight. It all makes perfect sense to me. So here's the final plan:

562 xp mark II
18" full chisel for daily use
24" or 28" full chisel skip for big boys.

..............

When the wife allows it. Lol. Really though I just got the splitter this winter so I'm hoping to get the saw for the upcoming bucking season. I won't need it until then anyways may as well spread out the spending. Unless there's a good sale! Which there is right now...😬😬😬

 

[Ashful]

If you're just looking for 60cc and not specifically "562 XP", putting word in with your local saw shop to watch out for a clean one, might get you a good deal. I bought both of my larger saws used, one through a saw shop who knew I was shopping for something around 90cc. When one of their pro customers came in looking for a new MS-660, they took their old one in, cleaned it up, and resold it to me for less than half of new. I bought and resold an 056 Super (crazy-big-fast saw) and a 135cc 084AV from them previously, they're always rehabbing and reselling older pro saws. I think I only paid $450 for the 064, compare that to a new MS-662.

I think my 036 was an ebay deal, some homeowner who bought it and used it literally once. Bar was a mess, because that one use was cutting a stump out of the earth, but the saw itself looked like new in box. $300.

 

[Caw]

To be honest I'm considering the double saw plan again. Just got a $1,000 repair done for free (tldr it took 2 months longer than it should have due to part issues) sooooo back to the drawing board lol. I think I can probably swing getting the 550 with an 18" for the small stuff then next year grabbing a 572 with a big boy bar.....

Decision paralysis! Thankfully I'm not buying it right now lol.

 

[salecker]

Guys I just want to lightsaber some firewood!

Get it ported by a reputable porter

 

[Ashful]

To be honest I'm considering the double saw plan again. Just got a $1,000 repair done for free (tldr it took 2 months longer than it should have due to part issues) sooooo back to the drawing board lol. I think I can probably swing getting the 550 with an 18" for the small stuff then next year grabbing a 572 with a big boy bar.....

Decision paralysis! Thankfully I'm not buying it right now lol.

lol... 75cc would pull a 24" bar nicely, if you have frequent need for a 24" bar. Of course, the 18" bar on the 562 XP will cut 34" logs all day, without complaining. You said you don't often get stuff even that big, let alone larger.

The 562 XP also can pull a 24" bar, esp. with skip chain, just not as fast as the 572. If you're getting big rounds very frequently, speed matters. But if they're a rarity, then speed in those big rounds becomes less important.

I'd never talk anyone out of a bigger saw, at least up to 100 cc... but they aren't cheap!

 

[Caw]

Lol... 75cc would pull a 24" bar nicely, if you have frequent need for a 24" bar. Of course, the 18" bar on the 562 XP will cut 34" logs all day, without complaining. You said you don't often get stuff even that big, let alone larger.

I'd never talk anyone out of a bigger saw, at least up to 100 cc... but they aren't cheap!

Yeah honestly the bigger saws would just be toys for me....but I love my toys!

 

[Ashful]

I totally understand. Did I tell you I brought a 135cc saw home from the saw shop, once? Stupid big, the damn thing should have had wheels and handlebars on it, but my caveman brain just couldn't resist buying the biggest thing in the shop.

The 064 (85cc) is tiny, compared to that monster, but it's so much faster and more fun.

 

[Caw]

What happened to that saw? Still have it?