550XP or 562XP as a fill in?

[Matt93eg]

I have both the 550xp and the 562xp.. the 550 is my primary saw with an 18 inch bar. I use the 562 with a bigger bar for cutting the larger items. The 550 is just easier to move around in the woods and working around obstacles. The 550 is a fast cutter..

Thanks for replying. I'm still trying to decide. I keep going back and forth. I think the 550 for what I'm trying to do, weight wise is really the better option. But one thing I do like about the 562 is the large mount, I don't intend to run longer bars if I got the 562. 18 probably, maybe a 20, anything bigger and I'll do it with the 390, but if something say happened to my 390 and i was waiting on a part, etc i could throw a longer bar on the 562 if need be.

 

[Sean McGillicuddy]

I like your thinking ..👍

 

[Ashful]

I wouldn't even think of running a 20" bar on any saw as small as the 550XP. Slow city. I don't like going slow, just to pamper an over-taxed saw.

I think a good argument could be made for the 550XP, if it's lighter than the 562XP, but I'd be putting a 16" or 18" bar on it. Nothing larger.

Conversely, if you really want a 20" bar, the 562XP is the only one of these two saws I would even consider.

 

[walhondingnashua]

The 562 comes with a 20" bar and mine ran like crazy with a 20". As stated before, i have not problems with a 24" and am considering a light 28". The 562 is a very light saw for what it is capable of.

 

[Ashful]

Can a 60cc saw turn a 28" bar? Sure, if you're patient and gentle. It can work for the odd occasion, but I'd not want to run that setup with any regularity. It's really too much bar for that saw to turn with any efficiency or speed, and it's going to be hard on that small motor.

28" bars are the reason they make 85cc saws.

Likewise, I will very occasionally run my 36" bar on my 85cc saw, but only with skip chain. I switch it back to the 28" bar as soon as the job requiring the extra length is completed. I used to own a 125cc saw for that 36" bar, but it wasn't used frequently enough to justify keeping it around, as 125cc saws are very "not cheap".

 

[Jsjac1]

Not sure how do you tell mark 1 or 2 ?

Do you have the Mark 1 or Mark 2 model?

I looked at my saw today.
It says 550XP.
It does not say Mark 2 so it must be a Mark 1.

 

[Matt93eg]

I wouldn't even think of running a 20" bar on any saw as small as the 550XP. Slow city. I don't like going slow, just to pamper an over-taxed saw.

I think a good argument could be made for the 550XP, if it's lighter than the 562XP, but I'd be putting a 16" or 18" bar on it. Nothing larger.

Conversely, if you really want a 20" bar, the 562XP is the only one of these two saws I would even consider.

Oh no doubt, my 20" reference was for the 562 only. If I got the 550 It would for sure be a 16".

 

[Matt93eg]

Thanks for all the insight guys. I think I'm gonna just grab a 562. It will see an 18" bar, maybe a 20. Anything outside of that will be 390XP work. The 562 will be alot lighter for that In between stuff and then if I go out to tackle some big oak and for someone reason I have an issue with the 390, in a pinch I can throw a longer bar on the 562.

 

[Ashful]

Now that's settled, maybe someone can 'splain me why Husqvarna has a 5xx series "for professional loggers and tree care", and then a 7xx series "for professional logging" and a 8xx and 9xx series for "professional tree care". Seems they're slicing it awful thin, here?

I'm not pretending Stihl's numbering system is any less stupid, in fact I think Husqvarna's has more potential for sanity. But why not just 1xx for homeowners, 2xx for farm and ranch, 3xx for pro, and 4xx for rescue?

Put otherwise, what's the difference between "professional loggers" and "professional logging", or 5xx for "tree care" versus 8xx for "tree care", with 6xx for "rescue" jammed in the middle?

 

[hobbyheater]

These logs were done with a 562 XP and a 28 inch bar, had no problem at all !

Use a 390 XP with a 32 inch bar for the bigger stuff !

For 20 inch and down use a MSA 300 with a 20 inch bar !

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Hope this helps .

 

[Ashful]

No doubt. It can be done. From cars to dump trucks, there are many arguments to be made for "adequate" versus "comfortable". What I find slow and frustrating, based on actually having run larger saws, might not bother someone else who never knew any better.

Here's what I've found works well, from my own personal experience, without bogging or slowing my work when buried to the nose in hickory or oak:

35cc = 12"
50cc = 16"
65cc = 19"
85cc = 28"
125cc = whatever the hell you want, sprocket accordingly

Ignoring the pole saw, I've stripped my saw plan down to just three, at 35, 63, and 85cc, barred as noted above. It's a good system for hardwoods, but those who live out west and cut only softwood might choose smaller motors for the same bars.

 

[Matt93eg]

No doubt. It can be done. From cars to dump trucks, there are many arguments to be made for "adequate" versus "comfortable". What I find slow and frustrating, based on actually having run larger saws, might not bother someone else who never knew any better.

Here's what I've found works well, from my own personal experience, without bogging or slowing my work when buried to the nose in hickory or oak:

35cc = 12"
50cc = 16"
65cc = 19"
85cc = 28"
125cc = whatever the hell you want, sprocket accordingly

Ignoring the pole saw, I've stripped my saw plan down to just three, at 35, 63, and 85cc, barred as noted above. It's a good system for hardwoods, but those who live out west and cut only softwood might choose smaller motors for the same bars.

For hardwoods I for sure agree with your cc vs bar length you mentioned above. Softwoods could bump up in bar length some per same cc saw but I don't cut enough softwood to set my saws up that way. I will cut the occasional pine and it gets eat like butter compared to dense oak. I cut quite a bit of tulip poplar, which is supposedly classified as a hardwood but it cuts like butter, more like pine. Oak is just a different animal.

cc per bar can be felt with my 390XP, it will absolutely rip through oak with a 22" bar buried, it will also pull a 28" in oak with authority, but then jump up to the 36" in oak and all the sudden the 390 is feeling more like a 50cc with a 20", its just not fun nor impressive. If I was using the 36" a lot then I would for sure get an even bigger saw but I rarely use it so when I do need it I just use the 390 for it. The new 562XP I am going to get, with a 18" should be FUN as heck to run, But once it goes to where I need that 22" buried i'll be going to pick up my 390XP. I like to grin when I am running a saw.

 

[Matt93eg]

Now that's settled, maybe someone can 'splain me why Husqvarna has a 5xx series "for professional loggers and tree care", and then a 7xx series "for professional logging" and a 8xx and 9xx series for "professional tree care". Seems they're slicing it awful thin, here?

I'm not pretending Stihl's numbering system is any less stupid, in fact I think Husqvarna's has more potential for sanity. But why not just 1xx for homeowners, 2xx for farm and ranch, 3xx for pro, and 4xx for rescue?

Put otherwise, what's the difference between "professional loggers" and "professional logging", or 5xx for "tree care" versus 8xx for "tree care", with 6xx for "rescue" jammed in the middle?

Not sure, all I can say is at least with Husky I can look at a given saw, 550, 390, 3120 and know what class saw it is cc wise....Stihl I have no idea, id have to go look at the spec sheet. LOL

 

[ABMax24]

Now that's settled, maybe someone can 'splain me why Husqvarna has a 5xx series "for professional loggers and tree care", and then a 7xx series "for professional logging" and a 8xx and 9xx series for "professional tree care". Seems they're slicing it awful thin, here?

I'm not pretending Stihl's numbering system is any less stupid, in fact I think Husqvarna's has more potential for sanity. But why not just 1xx for homeowners, 2xx for farm and ranch, 3xx for pro, and 4xx for rescue?

Put otherwise, what's the difference between "professional loggers" and "professional logging", or 5xx for "tree care" versus 8xx for "tree care", with 6xx for "rescue" jammed in the middle?

Husqvarna currently has only 3 series. At least in Canada.

1 - Homeowner
4 - Farm/Ranch
5 - Professional. XP for extreme performance. i for electric.

3 - series are still listed, but are the outgoing professional series.

Pretty simple if you ask me.

 

[Matt93eg]

By the way, where did all this "over barring" originate? I know if you go to a box store and look at like the 4 series homeowner huskies, they will be putting all the 450s with a 20, terrible terrible terrible. Not only does the saw not have the balls to pull it well, its also balanced horrible. I have seen some people speak about saws and they will say something like yeah I got a 24" saw. That means nothing cause 24" with a 50cc is absolutely horrible, yet 24" with a 70cc is mainly ok.

Lowes also sells the 545 with a 20 when it should be sold with a 16. I just don't get it.

 

[ABMax24]

I think there is some failed logic in this thread.

If I'm cutting a 14" diameter log only 14" of chain is cutting, it doesn't matter if that's on a 16" bar or a 20" bar. The increased friction from 8" of extra chain touching the bar is pretty negligible.

Not sure how buying a 16" bar to cut 19" wood is any faster when you have to cut from both sides? When a 20" could cut straight through in one pass.

A 35cc saw with a 24" bar will still cut a 24" log, or 48" if cut from both sides. I don't care if your saw is 120cc, if it's got a 16" bar it isn't cutting that log.

Then there's the reach factor, you bend down 4" less with a 20" bar over 16" to limb and such.

 

[hobbyheater]

I'm 5'6" and the 28 " bar on the 562 sure saves a lot of bending over for wood that is on the ground!
Your going to love the 562 !

 

[Newbie78]

Well, I was cutting with an '86 Jonny 590 today, just ripping thru some 4-10" dry aspen. Damn saw just wouldn't run out of gas as I made cut after cut after cut. If that were one of my 60cc saws, I would have run out of gas way, way sooner and long before I would have cut what I cut.....

A good 50cc saw is such a delightful pleasure to run..

 

[Ashful]

Husqvarna currently has only 3 series. At least in Canada.

1 - Homeowner
4 - Farm/Ranch
5 - Professional. XP for extreme performance. i for electric.

3 - series are still listed, but are the outgoing professional series.

Pretty simple if you ask me.

I'm usually right there with you, ABMax24. But I was recently looking at an advertisement for a Husqvarna 970, which doesn't seem to fit your explanation.

 

[EbS-P]

I'm 5'6" and the 28 " bar on the 562 sure saves a lot of bending over for wood that is on the ground!
You’re going to love the 562 !

“Stand up and buck” BBR puts 32” on just about everything but he’s special

 

[ABMax24]

I'm usually right there with you, ABMax24. But I was recently looking at an advertisement for a Husqvarna 970, which doesn't seem to fit your explanation.

Thought we were talking chainsaws? The 970 isn't a chainsaw, and probably why it's labelled differently, to avoid confusion with the chainsaw lineup.

 

[Ashful]

Thought we were talking chainsaws? The 970 isn't a chainsaw, and probably why it's labelled differently, to avoid confusion with the chainsaw lineup.

Well, this was a chainsaw, although its application is indeed concrete.

Husqvarna Chain Saw | K970 Chain Saw | Concrete Chain Saw

Ideal for cutting minor adjustments to window and door openings, The Husqvarna K970 has a unique cutting depth.

www.diamondtoolstore.com

But I've also seen other references to Husqvarna using 700 series for chainsaws developed for fire and rescue applications.

 

[ABMax24]

Well, this was a chainsaw, although its application is indeed concrete.

Husqvarna Chain Saw | K970 Chain Saw | Concrete Chain Saw

Ideal for cutting minor adjustments to window and door openings, The Husqvarna K970 has a unique cutting depth.

www.diamondtoolstore.com

But I've also seen other references to Husqvarna using 700 series for chainsaws developed for fire and rescue applications.

The original post I responded to was regarding tree/wood usage. And still holds true for that.

The snowblower lineup doesn't fit my explanation either, but also isn't relevant to the context it is referencing.

 

[duramaxman05]

I cut this Saturday morning with my 550xp with tsumara 18", 3/8" chain and a new skip tooth chain. It's all ash, oak and hickory. I never had any power problems cutting. I didn't push on it real hard and it chewed through all of it. A sharp chain is key. I was very happy with it. It beats lugging around a big saw. I did have my jonsered 2172 with 24" bar on stand by.

 

[Ashful]

...new skip tooth chain.

Cool! In addition the sharp chain and never taking the depth gauges below factory height if you don't have the extra HP, I'd say skip chain is also key for any "over-barred" saw. Skip chain takes substantially less horsepower per inch, it has half (or 2/3, depending on config) the cutters, but also cuts slower and can be too grabby if the thing you're cutting isn't big enough to keep at least 2 or 3 of those widely-spaced cutters buried in the kerf.

I run skip chain when I mount my 36" bar on the 85cc saw, but full comp at 28" and below.