new Vapor Fire 100 with very poor heat

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I've heard about the 2, 10, 3 foot rule when it comes to chimneys.

(broken link removed)
 
Even going by that, site specific wind patterns can do real strange things sometimes when going over roofs & peaks & stuff. Could be it is pushing down on the top of you chimney some too, if the top of chimney is not above the highest point of the roof.
 
Even going by that, site specific wind patterns can do real strange things sometimes when going over roofs & peaks & stuff. Could be it is pushing down on the top of you chimney some too, if the top of chimney is not above the highest point of the roof.
I bet it is that's why I'm making it higher too
 
I just got off the phone with Rockford Chimney and he said everyone he knows has problems getting the vapor fires to draft.

Also, don't let them make it out to be a bad thing. Low stack temps are a good thing, at least for those who have the benefit of tall chimneys. :)
 
I wish I could stop with the questions on here beacuase im sure its geting old but I need more advice. The chimney guy finally showed up and said just running the liner down is never going to work. He said its needs a inch of insulation +3 more blocks. He said since I all ready bought the liner he will take 500 off of 2500 to do it. All told and sold I would have 3900 into the chimney. He also said he wants to change the inside pipe from the stove out too. Puting double wall in to keep the heat in. I know that's good advice beacause the guys from Lamppa also said to do that. All in all I would have 3900 into the chimney plus whatever the double wall stove pipe is going to cost which I know is not cheap. Maybe I would be better off at this point just puting a new chimney up? Again thanks so much for all the help
 
I just looked. I paid $3,700 to have an ICC/Excel system installed from scratch inside the house by NFI certified people.....about 30'+ of it. Here's some photos of after they installed it and before the chase was built. Starting from the top and going down.


[Hearth.com] new Vapor Fire 100 with very poor heat


[Hearth.com] new Vapor Fire 100 with very poor heat



[Hearth.com] new Vapor Fire 100 with very poor heat


[Hearth.com] new Vapor Fire 100 with very poor heat


[Hearth.com] new Vapor Fire 100 with very poor heat


[Hearth.com] new Vapor Fire 100 with very poor heat


[Hearth.com] new Vapor Fire 100 with very poor heat
 
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I wish I could stop with the questions on here beacuase im sure its geting old but I need more advice. The chimney guy finally showed up and said just running the liner down is never going to work. He said its needs a inch of insulation +3 more blocks. He said since I all ready bought the liner he will take 500 off of 2500 to do it. All told and sold I would have 3900 into the chimney. He also said he wants to change the inside pipe from the stove out too. Puting double wall in to keep the heat in. I know that's good advice beacause the guys from Lamppa also said to do that. All in all I would have 3900 into the chimney plus whatever the double wall stove pipe is going to cost which I know is not cheap. Maybe I would be better off at this point just puting a new chimney up? Again thanks so much for all the help
If he lays up the extra block, can you DIY the liner? It really isn't that hard.
As I mentioned earlier in the thread, putting up a new Supervent class A chimney should run under a grand for the parts.
Edit: I just went to Menards site and priced it all out...the whole chimney system, all the parts, and doublewall stove pipe/elbows/tee too...should be all the major parts needed, unless I missed a minor piece...total was (pretax) $991.81...minus 11% rebate (in store credit) if you bought it by midnight tomorrow. This is for about a 19' chimney (18' of pipe plus the tee)
 
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If he lays up the extra block, can you DIY the liner? It really isn't that hard.
As I mentioned earlier in the thread, putting up a new Supervent class A chimney should run under a grand for the parts.
Edit: I just went to Menards site and priced it all out...the whole chimney system, all the parts, and doublewall stove pipe/elbows/tee too...should be all the major parts needed, unless I missed a minor piece...total was (pretax) $991.81...minus 11% rebate (in store credit) if you bought it by midnight tomorrow.

Mine was around $1200 from menards so this should be accurate. I ran 36 feet class A from my basement wall and up, plus all the wall brackets, pipe connectors etc.

Also bought mine during the 11% rebate and ended up with a nice in store rebate check to soften the blow.
 
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If he lays up the extra block, can you DIY the liner? It really isn't that hard.
As I mentioned earlier in the thread, putting up a new Supervent class A chimney should run under a grand for the parts.
Edit: I just went to Menards site and priced it all out...the whole chimney system, all the parts, and doublewall stove pipe/elbows/tee too...should be all the major parts needed, unless I missed a minor piece...total was (pretax) $991.81...minus 11% rebate (in store credit) if you bought it by midnight tomorrow. This is for about a 19' chimney (18' of pipe plus the tee)
I can do the liner myself but I can't brake out the Terracotta
 
I wasn't going to but the chimney guy said it was essential to have it
I personally think he is wrong (of course I am always suspicious of salespeople)...I think with adding 3' height and the SS liner, that would do the trick...but insulation is always better. Thing ought to suck like a Hoover when you are done!
 
I personally think he is wrong (of course I am always suspicious of salespeople)...I think with adding 3' height and the SS liner, that would do the trick...but insulation is always better. Thing ought to suck like a Hoover when you are done!
Ok well I'm going to stick to the plan then. The Rockford liner with no insulation is going to be here Monday. My neighbor is going to help me install it sometime after the holiday.
 
The good thing is that if you install without insulation and you are not happy with it, it can be pulled out and insulated, then re-installed after the clay is broken out...assuming that the liner is not messed up on initial install...which it shouldn't be, unless it gets stuck and then you force it on through...something like that.
 
The good thing is that if you install without insulation and you are not happy with it, it can be pulled out and insulated, then re-installed after the clay is broken out...assuming that the liner is not messed up on initial install...which it shouldn't be, unless it gets stuck and then you force it on through...something like that.
If it doesn't work im just going to cut my losses and start over with a triple wall pipe. Thats what it should have been to begin with. haha what are you going to do?
 
If it doesn't work im just going to cut my losses and start over with a triple wall pipe. Thats what it should have been to begin with. haha what are you going to do?
You mean doublewall, right? Even though triple wall is approved for wood burning, doublewall is the preffered pipe, and a bit cheaper too.
Doublewall runs warmer (internally) and stays cleaner due to the insulation...so it will draft better too. The triplewall may have a tighter CTC spec (I dunno) but it is also 2" bigger OD...so the 2" CTC spec of doublewall ends up fitting in the same spot (not that this CTC stuff matters much for your setup)
 
You mean doublewall, right? Even though triple wall is approved for wood burning, doublewall is the preffered pipe, and a bit cheaper too.
Doublewall runs warmer (internally) and stays cleaner due to the insulation...so it will draft better too. The triplewall may have a tighter CTC spec (I dunno) but it is also 2" bigger OD...so the 2" CTC spec of doublewall ends up fitting in the same spot (not that this CTC stuff matters much for your setup)
ok good to know Ill go with double if i have to go down that road
 
I bet I could do that in my house too. Maybe ill pacth it up with the liner for this winter and next year ill put something like this in. If i did it this way I go strait up right off the furnace


yeah, it works good. Being in heated space and insulated pretty much the whole run allowed me to supply an outside make up air duct to my BD to send cold outside air up the chimney instead of heated basement air in order to regulate the draft. Been using it this way for about 1.5 heating seasons now.

If your new liner works, I'm not sure spending even more money on a completely separate and new chimney would be worth it. Obviously your call though. It would be better, but at what point does the law of diminishing returns come into play in regards to $$$$$ spent.
 
Ok well I'm going to stick to the plan then. The Rockford liner with no insulation is going to be here Monday. My neighbor is going to help me install it sometime after the holiday.
So install on Friday? If you get all sooty doing it...kinda gives new meaning to "Black Friday", eh?! ;lol :rolleyes:
 
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