Jotul c550 Rockland tips thread

[Halligan]

Wow, great thread. I just read all 18 pages and I feel like I understand my new Rockland much better. I went from an Oslo in my old house to this stove and I'm pleased.

The only thing is I don't have a block off plate down low. I just the stainless liner up 25' to the cap which blocks off the flue. The installer did put insulation at the top just below the cap though. Truthfully it's so tight above my stove I don't think you could get a block off plate in there. The installer had a tough time getting the pull down collar in the stove never mind having a block off plate limiting the movement of the flex liner.

Anyway, so far I love the 550.

 

[jatoxico]

I posted a thread about my modification of the primary air https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/jotul-550-primary-air-modification.120412/ .

On inspection I found that the center air opening is designed to allow air in when fully closed which is undoubtedly an aspect its ability to gain EPA certification. Two of the remaining 6 slots which should have closed fully were not. The channel that houses the adjustment knob acts as a stop for the open position but the knob could not use full travel in the closed position. I filed down the slide and now have what I believe is the full air control that was intended.

One thing I noticed when removing the air wash manifold was that the 3 bolts that fasten it were barely hand tight. While looking at the exploded view of the stove you can see the manifold and stove face sandwich some gaskets. Being as loose it was those gaskets could not have been doing their job. At the very least the air wash was not able to work as well as it should. Looking at the diagram the loose bolts may have been letting uncontrolled air in.

In my first burn after reassembly I noticed the secondaries seemed to fire earlier than I was used to as if it was pulling air better from the secondary air intake than before, the fire was more evenly distributed in the fire box (always burned more on the right) and the air wash was more active. Time will tell if it was just one of those things but that manifold should not have been that loose.

 

[jatoxico]

Just a followup. I posted about modifying or perhaps more acurately adjusting the primary air on the 550 so that I can get full use of the intended air control. Tonight was the the first time I needed to shut the air fully. It's quite a difference.

I loaded as usual but conditions were right and the fire took off. Normally this would have resulted in an 800 degree stove and I would just have to ride it out but really it's a waste of wood and heat. Too much too soon and a short lived fire. I shut it down maximally and its running on doghouse air the secondaries and what little air its getting from the primary. Been doing so for an hour and a half at 650 (fan almost on high as well). No signs of slowing down, flame color bright yellow/white no smoke from the stack.

I will open the air a bit before I go to sleep so I burn clean but I'm calling this an improvement.

 

[bobbyblades]

3rd year with a 550 had blower speed control fail on warranty and replaced . this year was loading more wood into stove and sparks coming out out from the knob area ,speed control . got a new control ebay plugged it in and more sparks from new unit . blew fuse . ran a jumper wire for temp fix// fan on full all the time and runs ok . fan controls burning up??
you can see the arc burn on top

 

[jatoxico]

3rd year with a 550 had blower speed control fail on warranty and replaced . this year was loading more wood into stove and sparks coming out out from the knob area ,speed control . got a new control ebay plugged it in and more sparks from new unit . blew fuse . ran a jumper wire for temp fix// fan on full all the time and runs ok . fan controls burning up??
you can see the arc burn on top
View attachment 121823

You running on an undersized extension cord or something?

 

[bobbyblades]

You running on an undersized extension cord or something?

no ext cord used.. doubt that would cause power to jump from control to mounting plate it sits in/weird

 

[jatoxico]

no ext cord used.. doubt that would cause power to jump from control to mounting plate it sits in/weird

Hmm just didn't know if you were getting any hot wires or components. That is odd. It's only the switch that's an issue? Any fan problems?

 

[bobbyblades]

Hmm just didn't know if you were getting any hot wires or components. That is odd. It's only the switch that's an issue? Any fan problems?

ran a 5 inch jumper where the control was works fine one speed may leave it at that . never used it on slower speeds

 

[bobbyblades]

ran a 5 inch jumper where the control was works fine one speed may leave it at that . never used it on slower speeds

have a speedster control laying around
SE Electronic Stepless Speed Controller.. amazon
if i need to run fan slower ill try this

plugs into outlet then to stove

 

[jatoxico]

ran a 5 inch jumper where the control was works fine one speed may leave it at that . never used it on slower speeds

That runs the fans on full speed? Not that it has anything to do with your problem but I don't usually run at max fan spped, almost never actually.

 

[bobbyblades]

That runs the fans on full speed? Not that it has anything to do with your problem but I don't usually run at max fan spped, almost never actually.

got 3400 sq ft stove fit without having to extend hearth /code/
doesnt heat whole house but it dropped oil bill considerably close off unused rooms and it manages good on max , just loud 2 more yrs pay for itself

 

[Fonzy]

Hello,

I really need some help, we are thoroughly frustrated with our 550. We can't seem to warm the room let alone the house.

We are brand new to wood stoves and we purchased one for the purpose to heat the home and move off oil and so far we are frustrated beyond belief. When we were shopping for a stove, several sales people and the installer said we will have problems moving hot air out of the room and getting it to circulate. They suspected the room would easily be in the 80's and in practice we can't get the room above 68, once we saw 70 (it was 40 degrees outside).

The house is a center hall colonial about 3000sqft. We have friends with similar fireplaces and similar style houses and they are able to heat their homes so we expect to be able to heat ours. The fireplace is in our family room and measures x feet, 8' 6" tall and on a slab. The rest of the home is over a basement. There are three openings to the room each 3'6" wide. In other words, it isn't a great room or big open area. We had friends over who have smaller units in a similar house and were curious as to why we weren't sweating. My wife and I often feel as if this is no different then having a regular fireplace.

I read this entire forum and I'm trying many of the tips proved. For example, today, we are waiting for the stove to reach 500 degree's where the air comes out before turing the fan on. The door is reading 550 and the top was reading about mid 500's. Once the fire dies down it cools down very quickly even though there are hot coals at the bottom. In fact, I'm noticing that the right half of the unit is about 50 degrees warmer than the left half of the unit.

In regards to the wood, I bought a moisture meter and the wood I'm using has a moister of less than 10%. It isn't the hardest wood, (maple and sycamore) but it is dry and it is heating up the unit. I'm getting secondary burn with no problem and I have the damper set to half way or 1/4 of the way.

The top of the surround is 200 degree's, the glass is about 600 and the metal frame around the glass is 350. The top of the stove where the air comes out is about 550 as mentioned above. I have the fan on medium to medium low, I don't want it to lower the temperature of the unit. Now, get this, the room is 67 degrees.

Is it possible, the stove is using too much house air and depressurizing it causing the outside air to seep in? The home was build in 1976 and has brand new efficient windows, new pink insulation in the attic and new vinyl siding, but I don't believe the previous owners put tyvek up. Not sure why.

I'm sitting here writing this in the family room 7 feet from the unit and I feel a cold draft. We blocked the bottom of the door to the basement and resealed around the front door.

Please, someone help, I'm about ready to rip this out of the wall and throw it in the trash. This was a lot of money to be cold.

 

[jatoxico]

Hello,

I really need some help, we are thoroughly frustrated with our 550. We can't seem to warm the room let alone the house.

We are brand new to wood stoves and we purchased one for the purpose to heat the home and move off oil and so far we are frustrated beyond belief. When we were shopping for a stove, several sales people and the installer said we will have problems moving hot air out of the room and getting it to circulate. They suspected the room would easily be in the 80's and in practice we can't get the room above 68, once we saw 70 (it was 40 degrees outside).

The house is a center hall colonial about 3000sqft. We have friends with similar fireplaces and similar style houses and they are able to heat their homes so we expect to be able to heat ours. The fireplace is in our family room and measures x feet, 8' 6" tall and on a slab. The rest of the home is over a basement. There are three openings to the room each 3'6" wide. In other words, it isn't a great room or big open area. We had friends over who have smaller units in a similar house and were curious as to why we weren't sweating. My wife and I often feel as if this is no different then having a regular fireplace.

I read this entire forum and I'm trying many of the tips proved. For example, today, we are waiting for the stove to reach 500 degree's where the air comes out before turing the fan on. The door is reading 550 and the top was reading about mid 500's. Once the fire dies down it cools down very quickly even though there are hot coals at the bottom. In fact, I'm noticing that the right half of the unit is about 50 degrees warmer than the left half of the unit.

In regards to the wood, I bought a moisture meter and the wood I'm using has a moister of less than 10%. It isn't the hardest wood, (maple and sycamore) but it is dry and it is heating up the unit. I'm getting secondary burn with no problem and I have the damper set to half way or 1/4 of the way.

The top of the surround is 200 degree's, the glass is about 600 and the metal frame around the glass is 350. The top of the stove where the air comes out is about 550 as mentioned above. I have the fan on medium to medium low, I don't want it to lower the temperature of the unit. Now, get this, the room is 67 degrees.

Is it possible, the stove is using too much house air and depressurizing it causing the outside air to seep in? The home was build in 1976 and has brand new efficient windows, new pink insulation in the attic and new vinyl siding, but I don't believe the previous owners put tyvek up. Not sure why.

I'm sitting here writing this in the family room 7 feet from the unit and I feel a cold draft. We blocked the bottom of the door to the basement and resealed around the front door.

Please, someone help, I'm about ready to rip this out of the wall and throw it in the trash. This was a lot of money to be cold.

Welcome aboard Fonz. Have no fear the 550 is a pretty capable heater, I'm not gonna lie, the flush mount of the 550 does not make it the baddest boy on the block (I needed a flush configuration) still you can get good results. It's 23 degrees here, my house is 3000 sq ft+ and it's in the 70's in the house no furnace coming on.

For starters how is the unit installed? Full liner, outside chimney? Also how are you measuring the moisture content of the wood? Should be done on the face of a fresh split not the ends.

Also you might consider posting your questions in the stove room as general thread so you get more responses. Explain you have a 550 but most everything else applies to all stoves. Best to be able to explain the install and the house layout.

I have one concern that you say you are on a slab that is acting as a heat sink. Is it in a basement? BTW I have many disadvantages in my setup, outside chimney, not fully insulated liner and in a walk out basement type situation and still can get decent heat so don't freak yet. Joe

 

[Fonzy]

Joe,

Thanks for the feedback. I'm in south eastern PA just north of Philly so I'm in the same storm you are in and it is 67 in the family room. I forgot to mention that the room is 13x25.

To answer some of your questions.
The stove is in the family room on the first floor. Half the house is a slab and half is a basement and the family room is on the part that is on the slab (center hall colonial). The wall the chimney is on is shared with the garage so the back of the chimney is cinder block and that is warm. This morning my car (stored in the garage) temp read 45 degrees and the outside was low 30's upper 20's. So heat is escaping out the back of the chimney.

I'm not sure how tall the chimney is but it goes to roof of the second story and is a round stainless steel liner. It isn't insulated but it is in terra cotta lined chimney.

To measure the moisture I'm not splitting the wood further, I'm just sticking the meter to the wood.

I'm encouraged your house is 70 degrees.

I didn't want to cross post because some people seem to dislike that so I figure I would try this forum first.

Thanks,

 

[jatoxico]

Joe,

Thanks for the feedback. I'm in south eastern PA just north of Philly so I'm in the same storm you are in and it is 67 in the family room. I forgot to mention that the room is 13x25.

To answer some of your questions.
The stove is in the family room on the first floor. Half the house is a slab and half is a basement and the family room is on the part that is on the slab (center hall colonial). The wall the chimney is on is shared with the garage so the back of the chimney is cinder block and that is warm. This morning my car (stored in the garage) temp read 45 degrees and the outside was low 30's upper 20's. So heat is escaping out the back of the chimney.

I'm not sure how tall the chimney is but it goes to roof of the second story and is a round stainless steel liner. It isn't insulated but it is in terra cotta lined chimney.

To measure the moisture I'm not splitting the wood further, I'm just sticking the meter to the wood.

I'm encouraged your house is 70 degrees.

I didn't want to cross post because some people seem to dislike that so I figure I would try this forum first.

Thanks,

The chimney being in the garage is good, not absolutely ideal but good. Mine is on an outside wall so totally exposed. How's the draft especially at start up? Smoke in the house?

As far as the wood just sticking the meter in the wood won't work. I was suspicious because 10% is rather low. To properly measure moisture take a split that is room temp and re-split it then take your measurement with the probes following the grain.

The difference between burning dry wood and wet cannot be over stated. So check your wood and to be double sure get a pack or two of kiln dried wood from the super market or box store to test with. How are you measuring temps IR or stove top thermo? I regularly see 600-650 even 700 on the top measured in the vent.

Like I said post a new thread that simply says you are trying to get more heat from your insert, everything else will follow. People that take a litlte time to read here and learn how to operate these stoves usually have success but many, many times it is the wood.

 

[degkop]

I'm in bucks county, so in the same storm too. The 550 puts out good heat for an insert, but nothing compared to a regular wood stove. Just not enough exposed surface area. With that being said, some things will help. Was a block off plate installed at the old damper? How about some roxul insulation above that? Those really help keep the heat in the room, rather than up the chimney. I second Joe's comment about good dry wood. I had some seasoned ash that sent the stove to 800 plus, but burning some newer elm that is barely getting to 500. So get one of those bags of wood at the super market and see if that changes the temps. Finally, I put the damper all the way closed and the temps do come up more so than if left at 1/4 (stove is leaky enough). Hope that helps.

 

[Fonzy]

Joe,

Thank you for your feedback. I really do appreciate your help.

I think I'm finally understanding the impact of good wood. We got a load of hardwood and we were told it was seasoned and I'm learning now that it clearly isn't. Until I find a better supplier I'm using some softer woods that were cut down in late spring and split in September. Getting the kiln dried wood is a great idea, I'll get a few packs tomorrow and give that a go.

I'm measuring with an IR meter. I've never seen 600 degree's, most likely because of the wood. I've borrowed good wood from people and we did notice the difference. We are now on the hunt to find some decently priced wood that is good for burning.

By the way, is the purpose of the fan to heat the room or to keep the temperature of the stove down? Perhaps we are using the fan incorrectly? Our thought is that although the wood isn't great, it does produce hot air when I use the fan, so we put it on high to try and get the air in the house to circulate. Now I'm thinking that perhaps my understanding of the purpose of the fan is incorrect?

I didn't know you had to split the wood to measure it. What is a good percent to look for?

Thank you again for your feedback. I will definitely post to the forum you suggested.

Joe

 

[Fonzy]

I'm in bucks county, so in the same storm too. The 550 puts out good heat for an insert, but nothing compared to a regular wood stove. Just not enough exposed surface area. With that being said, some things will help. Was a block off plate installed at the old damper? How about some roxul insulation above that? Those really help keep the heat in the room, rather than up the chimney. I second Joe's comment about good dry wood. I had some seasoned ash that sent the stove to 800 plus, but burning some newer elm that is barely getting to 500. So get one of those bags of wood at the super market and see if that changes the temps. Finally, I put the damper all the way closed and the temps do come up more so than if left at 1/4 (stove is leaky enough). Hope that helps.

Degkop,

I'm in Bucks county as well. Can you suggest any quality but fairly priced wood suppliers?

wow 800 degrees? I would think that would be dangerous especially since some have said it started to melt and created what appeared to be fireballs in previous posts in this thread.

I saw them put a white insulation blanked where the flu was previously located. And no block off plate was installed.

Thanks

 

[degkop]

Degkop,

I'm in Bucks county as well. Can you suggest any quality but fairly priced wood suppliers?

wow 800 degrees? I would think that would be dangerous especially since some have said it started to melt and created what appeared to be fireballs in previous posts in this thread.

I saw them put a white insulation blanked where the flu was previously located. And no block off plate was installed.

Thanks

Not sure about getting good wood this time of year. Most "seasoned" wood isn't. I scrounge for my stuff so I know when it is split. My neighbor buys and is happy, so I will ask him tomorrow.

From what I have read, 800 isn't out of the ordinary for this stove. Was a little worried, but it was fine. Just fired up the fan at full speed and opened the damper up a little bit. Sounds counter intuitive, but it brings cooler air in and cools things down. Wet paper towels also do the trick.

When you pull it out at the end of the season to clean, I would suggest getting some thin stainless steel and create a basic block off plate. Multiple threads on this site give you great directions and it was really easy. Have heard that it makes a huge difference.

Dan

 

[jatoxico]

Joe,

Thank you for your feedback. I really do appreciate your help.

I think I'm finally understanding the impact of good wood. We got a load of hardwood and we were told it was seasoned and I'm learning now that it clearly isn't. Until I find a better supplier I'm using some softer woods that were cut down in late spring and split in September. Getting the kiln dried wood is a great idea, I'll get a few packs tomorrow and give that a go.

I'm measuring with an IR meter. I've never seen 600 degree's, most likely because of the wood. I've borrowed good wood from people and we did notice the difference. We are now on the hunt to find some decently priced wood that is good for burning.

By the way, is the purpose of the fan to heat the room or to keep the temperature of the stove down? Perhaps we are using the fan incorrectly? Our thought is that although the wood isn't great, it does produce hot air when I use the fan, so we put it on high to try and get the air in the house to circulate. Now I'm thinking that perhaps my understanding of the purpose of the fan is incorrect?

I didn't know you had to split the wood to measure it. What is a good percent to look for?

Thank you again for your feedback. I will definitely post to the forum you suggested.

Joe

Wood of 18-20% is good. There's a lot on here about wood quality but for simplicity 20%. Even 22-24 is ok, I find real problems start above 25%. If I have to burn 22-25% wood I split it down small and try to mix it in with drier wood or throw small splits on a hot coal bed.

Many of us myself included had to make do in the first year. Since getting dry wood from a supplier is difficult folks have gotten pallets or construction debris to mix in with the wetter wood. You can also buy compressed wood blocks to supplement a less than optimal wood supply. If your wood is sucky keep the air open to help but that does tend to cool things, but establish a coal bed and feed small splits, big chunks of wet wood won't work well.

The fan does get heat out into the room. This is especially important for a flush mount stove. At start up fan is off till she gets hot. Then I turn on low and increase fan speed depending on stove top temp. I put in on auto low when I go to bed so it will shut itself off. Too much fan is also a bad thing since it cools the stove too much killing secondary burn. I try to keep my stove top above 350 and prefer >450. As I said I see temps of 600+ all the time. I almost never run the fan flat out.

 

[jatoxico]

I'm in bucks county, so in the same storm too. The 550 puts out good heat for an insert, but nothing compared to a regular wood stove. Just not enough exposed surface area. With that being said, some things will help. Was a block off plate installed at the old damper? How about some roxul insulation above that? Those really help keep the heat in the room, rather than up the chimney. I second Joe's comment about good dry wood. I had some seasoned ash that sent the stove to 800 plus, but burning some newer elm that is barely getting to 500. So get one of those bags of wood at the super market and see if that changes the temps. Finally, I put the damper all the way closed and the temps do come up more so than if left at 1/4 (stove is leaky enough). Hope that helps.

Yeah I see we're all getting the same storm. Our governor shut down some highways since we had a real problem last year w/ 36" dropped at once (was skiing in PA at the time which partially collapsed my garage ). Think they are over reacting though. Nasty night but 10" snow and you would think the world was ending.

 

[Soundchasm]

Hello,

I really need some help, we are thoroughly frustrated with our 550. We can't seem to warm the room let alone the house.
...

I'm sitting here writing this in the family room 7 feet from the unit and I feel a cold draft. We blocked the bottom of the door to the basement and resealed around the front door.

Please, someone help, I'm about ready to rip this out of the wall and throw it in the trash. This was a lot of money to be cold.

I've been around the block with my 550 insert, and after three years things are finally getting through to me.

1. Wood must be DRY. Mine is beyond picky about this. If your glass is turning brown, then it simply isn't dry.
2. Are you seeing secondaries? They can be quite dramatic-rolling and tumbling. This is where the stove begins to be worthwhile. I could use a few more feet of stack to make more draft, but I can put the slider at 1/2 and the secondaries will sustain, depending on the wood and the draft.
3. Mine seems to make hotter air right after I clean the ashes. I think the bottom must play a part in heating the air, so I scoop it out when it dies down.
4. I suspect the draft you feel is the air being drawn into the fans to be blown back out on the room, and not for combustion. It's a drag if your chair has its back to the unit. I turn on the central heat/air fan to break up that air pattern. You probably have a nice layer of warm air 1' from the ceiling.
5. The insert simply cannot compete with the 40 year old free-stander in the basement. Six sides of radiant heat with a blower. I get a lot more heat out of less wood.

I'll do whatever it takes to get a blockoff plate installed next spring. Very dry wood, and this stove seems to like a big fire. It also seems to like burning better when temps are below 32 degrees outside.

I wish you luck, keep us posted, and more than a few have had this struggle.
Thanks,
Greg

 

[Fonzy]

I've been around the block with my 550 insert, and after three years things are finally getting through to me.

1. Wood must be DRY. Mine is beyond picky about this. If your glass is turning brown, then it simply isn't dry.
2. Are you seeing secondaries? They can be quite dramatic-rolling and tumbling. This is where the stove begins to be worthwhile. I could use a few more feet of stack to make more draft, but I can put the slider at 1/2 and the secondaries will sustain, depending on the wood and the draft.
3. Mine seems to make hotter air right after I clean the ashes. I think the bottom must play a part in heating the air, so I scoop it out when it dies down.
4. I suspect the draft you feel is the air being drawn into the fans to be blown back out on the room, and not for combustion. It's a drag if your chair has its back to the unit. I turn on the central heat/air fan to break up that air pattern. You probably have a nice layer of warm air 1' from the ceiling.
5. The insert simply cannot compete with the 40 year old free-stander in the basement. Six sides of radiant heat with a blower. I get a lot more heat out of less wood.

I'll do whatever it takes to get a blockoff plate installed next spring. Very dry wood, and this stove seems to like a big fire. It also seems to like burning better when temps are below 32 degrees outside.

I wish you luck, keep us posted, and more than a few have had this struggle.
Thanks,
Greg

Hi Greg,

I woke up to the house at 58 degree's this morning and hot coals in the unit. It is cooling down rather fast. My glass does seem to have a slight tint of brown.

With the choke all the way down (level fully left) I get great secondary burn and a nice flame. The wind outside is effecting my flames, is that normal?

What's interesting is that the brick on my fireplace is very hot and the wood mantle which covers a good part of the brick was extremely hot last night. I don't have the metal plate that directs the radiant heat away from the wood because I met the clearances as per the Jotul installation guide. Do you guys get hot mantles?

Yes, if I stand on a latter the ceiling is pretty warm. What do you guys do to move air around.

I have a very drafty front door that needs to be replaced and I'm beginning to think the unit is pulling air from the front door. I may need a model that uses outside air to feed the fire. The sales person told us it is fed from up the chimney and the installer told us it uses the room air which we were very disappointed to hear.

Thanks,

 

[Ansky]

And here I am thinking I was getting pretty good at knowing all about my stove, and now I'm reading about all these modifications and I realize I don't know my stove at all. Such as, what the heck is the "doghouse?" ...aside from where I usually reside, thanks to my wife.

 

[bobbyblades]

ditto on the seal of the chimney itwill suck out that heat. i pulled my stove half way out last year for cleaning and found no roxul no block off . called installer to complain owner came down got mad at his installers .loaded holes up roxul at damper hole reset stove WOW big difference..

my room 14x14 gets killer hot 90's so i temp clamped a 20 in fan to top of door and pointed it down and out into the kitchen to circulate now room at upper 70's i set my air on half and full stove fan and stove stays steady temp with ir gun add 1 log at time if i load a hot fire too many peices at once it will drop the output . just a pain to go over ever hour too maintain

i also made a scoop to keep the ashes from getting into fan when i load wood

also the slower the fan the hotter the mantle gets

as for the fan there is another door on the other side so i dont use this way out . im short enuff to miss the fan anyway a little crude but works great ,pulls hot air down and heats the floor in kitchen

i got 3400 sq ft if it gets into the teens the oil kicks in . second floor just too far for this stove so i closed off a few rooms up there ..all depends on circulation and how far each room is from stove .when they invented radiators and baseboards it was heaven .. even heat to whole house .

there's a give and take with a wood burner hot close too cold far away