Jotul c550 Rockland tips thread

[Ansky]

I think you are good with the 18-20" pieces. But I would also cut some smaller pieces so you can lay them front to back in the unit and make a grid pattern for lighting up. The firebox is not very deep, so I wish I had more smaller pieces, maybe 12" or so that I could lay diagonal to my longer 18" pieces.

 

[bboulier]

so i've deciced on the Jotul C550 at this point..install will be in June and i'm curious what you guys think about this. so i know they claim you can use splits up to 24" in length...what are most guys throwing in there. i cut all my stuff to 18-20" and i'm getting ready to buck/split a lot and i'm curious if i should go the bit longer to help burn times?

go with 24" or stick with 18-20" ?

thanks, riggs

I would stick with the 18"-20" Load these lengths on the left side and put shorter wood and uglies N/S on the right.

 

[Riggs]

ok sounds good...i'll just keep at 18-20" then....thanks.

hey while i have your attention...tell me if this deal i went for sounds good..i've shopped around and this guy is by far the best reviewed in our area and great to work with so far..and the price seems great to me. for a Jotul C550 in Majolica Brown, 25' of Armor Flex pipe w/ 1/2" foil faced super liner wrap installed, cap/screen vent and he's also making/installing a custom lower block off plate for me..all labor & parts....$5,500 tax included(that includes the upcharge for the Armor Flex) it was $5250 if i opted for the standard Olympia Forever flex pipe. i thought that was a smokin deal.

 

[yjslave]

I am not sure if I am going crazy bit it seems like I have more heat coming from the door area I front of the glass then running the fans even with stove temps in the 800s. Can anyone confirm this is how it has always been or are my door seals on their way out?

 

[Ansky]

Ugh. I just broke the knob off the fan speed control unit when putting the grate back on. Here's a pic. It snaped right off. Anyone else do this? And if so, how'd you fix it. I hope i don't have to buy a whole new fan control unit.

 

[jnorthway]

Ugh. I just broke the knob off the fan speed control unit when putting the grate back on. Here's a pic. It snaped right off. Anyone else do this? And if so, how'd you fix it. I hope i don't have to buy a whole new fan control unit.

Ugh that's a drag. The switch post is made of weak plastic, which is serious design issue in my opinion. Mine was damaged when I got my stove. My dealer replaced it under warranty. It's an expensive part otherwise.

 

[USMC80]

Went out window shopping today and of course the wife loved the look of the 550. I know its not the most efficient one out there but I'm not going to win that battle. The upstairs I am looking to heat is 1100 sq feet and not the best insulated. I am installing ceiling fans where the unit will be and in the kitchen and bedrooms. Will this insert be able to keep this living space at 70 degrees in a NJ winter?

 

[Ansky]

Went out window shopping today and of course the wife loved the look of the 550. I know its not the most efficient one out there but I'm not going to win that battle. The upstairs I am looking to heat is 1100 sq feet and not the best insulated. I am installing ceiling fans where the unit will be and in the kitchen and bedrooms. Will this insert be able to keep this living space at 70 degrees in a NJ winter?

I would sure think so. I heated my house - an 1800sf, 2 floor, open floor plan - with this stove. My space generally stayed at 68 degrees, but I never loaded it up as much as you are supposed to. I'm still learning. I will tell you that my block off plate made a huge difference. That certainly helps the efficiency. Also, the importance of well seasoned wood can not be understated.
It's a good stove. I'm happy with it. And so is the wife.

 

[USMC80]

I've read that you have to remove the surround and pull out the unit to clean the flue, is this true?

 

[Ansky]

I've read that you have to remove the surround and pull out the unit to clean the flue, is this true?

no. Not true. Just lift the top baffle up and move to the side and you'll get easy access to the flue. Cleaning couldn't be easier with this insert. At least that's what the installer told me. I haven't had to do mine yet.

 

[USMC80]

good to hear, that would be deal breaker

 

[Riggs]

So if the fireplace opening is not minimum 33" is it a closed done deal or is there some wiggle room when installing the stove. I know the stove is 30" wide...and they call for 33" so there is 1.5" of clearance on both sides.

So can a guy get away with an opening of 32" and only leave 1/2" on both sides or is that a safety issue and why?

 

[Ansky]

good to hear, that would be deal breaker

I may have given you some bad info. I'm looking into this process now, for myself, and it seems its a major PITA to clean the flue with a traditional 6" poly brush. I think you are right, you would have to pull the stove, and disconnect the flue. I definitely don't want to do that. But I searched this site and found another option...

The Gardus Sooteater seems to be the way to go. Using this product, I can just remove the baffles and clean the flue easily. So that's probably what I'm going to do. I'm glad I figured this out before I spent $80 on a 6" poly brush and 30' of rod!

Anyway, sorry for giving bad info earlier.

Here's the sooteater...
http://www.amazon.com/Gardus-Inc-RCH205-Sooteater-Cleaning/dp/B0010H5JXA

 

[Riggs]

I may have given you some bad info. I'm looking into this process now, for myself, and it seems its a major PITA to clean the flue with a traditional 6" poly brush. I think you are right, you would have to pull the stove, and disconnect the flue. I definitely don't want to do that. But I searched this site and found another option...

The Gardus Sooteater seems to be the way to go. Using this product, I can just remove the baffles and clean the flue easily. So that's probably what I'm going to do. I'm glad I figured this out before I spent $80 on a 6" poly brush and 30' of rod!

Anyway, sorry for giving bad info earlier.

Here's the sooteater...
http://www.amazon.com/Gardus-Inc-RCH205-Sooteater-Cleaning/dp/B0010H5JXA

i'm guessing this was for another thread???

 

[Ansky]

i'm guessing this was for another thread???

Nope. I was just following up on a question USMC80 asked a few posts up.

And sorry, I don't know the answer to your question above regarding clearances. Good luck.

 

[Riggs]

Nope. I was just following up on a question USMC80 asked a few posts up.

And sorry, I don't know the answer to your question above regarding clearances. Good luck.

Oh ok...somehow I missed that. It's to to know too

 

[J.Stempel]

New Jotul 550 owner, with a question if anyone can help. This may seem absurd, but I was under the impression when we installed the 550 that we would be able to have fires with the door open if we felt like it. We bought the insert because we were tired of the inefficiency, smell, and risk of our large open Rumford fireplace, but I was worried we would lose the ambience and feel of seeing/hearing a real fire in the fireplace. Our dealer stated well before we bought/installed the unit that we could run the unit with the glass door open, but the manual advises against it. I guess what I'm wondering is whether anyone here leaves the door open when they are in the room simply to enjoy more of the fire look and feel or if there is too much smoke escape to do that or some other issue I'm not able to discern.
Thanks in advance.

 

[Dave A.]

Can't really speak to the specifics of the Rockland, but can tell you generally with wood stove inserts if you want to operate them with the door open, you need to have a firescreen in place. Maybe that's what your dealer was talking about -- there might be an accessory screen available that fits the Rockland, probably $100 or so. But if he didn't mean that, and meant to operate with the door open and no screen that's bad advice.

If you have a folding firescreen that will fit and protect against sparks and flames, you might get by with that until you get the accessory. But you probably shouldn't be out of the room with the door open until you get the one that fits it and is made for it, and if there isn't one available might be safer not to leave the door open. Check the manual further to see whether there is any mention of operation with a firescreen.

 

[J.Stempel]

Dave -
Thanks. I hear you regarding safety and a firescreen. I was more focussed on whether or not the stove draws efficiently enough when it gets hot that smoke won't escape into the room when the door is open. Since I just built my first [very small] fire tonight for break-in, I was not surprised that there was smoke that escaped into the room when I had the door open to move the wood around. I was just hoping that once the firebox was well heated up that it would draw so efficiently I could have the door open without puffing smoke into the room.

 

[Dave A.]

Okay, I looked at your manual and looked around the web, no firescreen accessory. And no mention of operation with a screen in the manual. So you may have been mislead about that.

If it's very warm there and you have a shorter flue you might be having a problem getting a good draft.

Since I just built my first [very small] fire tonight for break-in, I was not surprised that there was smoke that escaped into the room when I had the door open to move the wood around. I was just hoping that once the firebox was well heated up that it would draw so efficiently I could have the door open without puffing smoke into the room.​

You should be able to. You need to open the door slowly, however. Unlatch and kind of wait for the pressure to stabilize before you open it. If you open too fast you will get smoke. Your house might be too tight or you have exhaust fans operating. Might be necessary to crack open a window or outside door near the stove.

Again I don't have the C-550 and can't speak to it's specifics, and I see in the manual they mention not doing things I'm used to doing with other stoves -- like cracking the door or starting a fire with the door open. So beyond that, dunno what to say.

 

[Ansky]

Hmmm. Im not sure why he told you that. Well, yes I do...he wanted to make a sale. I have the 550 and I can't leave the door open all the way. I get too much smoke escape into the room. Maybe my wood isn't dry enough, but it just doesn't work for me. As it is, I need to open my door slowly as not to get a plume of smoke in the room. Not to mention, if you keep the door open, you are killing the efficiency of the unit. Basically it will be the same as a regular fireplace. I'd recommend keeping the glass clean and shutting the door.

 

[J.Stempel]

Dave, Ansky - thanks for the input. I'm resigned to the notion that open door fires are likely not a viable option. I'm sure as winter returns I'll find it's a manageable tradeoff, it's just something we learned to enjoy. I'm sure as I see the obvious return on heat output I'll adapt.
Thanks again.

 

[Ansky]

Dave, Ansky - thanks for the input. I'm resigned to the notion that open door fires are likely not a viable option. I'm sure as winter returns I'll find it's a manageable tradeoff, it's just something we learned to enjoy. I'm sure as I see the obvious return on heat output I'll adapt.
Thanks again.

You know, when I first bought my unit, I thought I'd miss the sounds/crackling of the open fire. But my wife and I still get mesmerized by the fire and we get caught up just starring at it. It has a nice big viewing area, so it wasn't much of a sacrifice. Plus the warmth of the thing makes up for any crackling that your missing. I'm happy with it. I just wish I bought it much much sooner.

 

[J.Stempel]

You know, when I first bought my unit, I thought I'd miss the sounds/crackling of the open fire. But my wife and I still get mesmerized by the fire and we get caught up just starring at it. It has a nice big viewing area, so it wasn't much of a sacrifice. Plus the warmth of the thing makes up for any crackling that your missing. I'm happy with it. I just wish I bought it much much sooner.

Thanks for that, I think I needed to hear that. The fire has always been a gathering place for the kids in the morning and the only thing that would easily lure them into the family room on a cold morning, and I think I'm in mourning, as silly as that sounds. But reading through these posts I can easily see how we will grow to appreciate the benefits. I think I just need to get it broken in and get a couple robust fires going to get our heads around this.
On a different note, where do most people generally attach their magnetic thermostat on this unit for the best reading?
JS

 

[Ansky]

Thanks for that, I think I needed to hear that. The fire has always been a gathering place for the kids in the morning and the only thing that would easily lure them into the family room on a cold morning, and I think I'm in mourning, as silly as that sounds. But reading through these posts I can easily see how we will grow to appreciate the benefits. I think I just need to get it broken in and get a couple robust fires going to get our heads around this.
On a different note, where do most people generally attach their magnetic thermostat on this unit for the best reading?
JS

I keep mine where the blower output is. That seems to be the most popular location. Here's a pic. Just ignore the mess. I was having issues with the furnace cement after I installed my block off plate.