Help please, before i freeze to death
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Wisneaky
Minister of Fire
I took a close look at the design of the cap after BG identified it. Actually a well designed cap that with sufficient chimney height and draft should do a good job and not have the overfire problems that caps without wind guards have when the wind is blowing hard.
As to the stove, many folks have gotten good service from that lil stove for many years. Including one of the moderators here that has heated his shop with one for at least ten years.
That chimney is just short for a EPA stove to draft properly in anything but bone busting cold weather.
As to the stove, many folks have gotten good service from that lil stove for many years. Including one of the moderators here that has heated his shop with one for at least ten years.
That chimney is just short for a EPA stove to draft properly in anything but bone busting cold weather.
I just want to give the op respect for all he's done to remedy this problem. Good on you for being an informed buyer and doing your part. It may turn out to be wood, draft, or the stove but I feel your doing your best and a fine job at it to remedy this problem.
jatoxico
Minister of Fire
I can't really tell from the video you posted. What was your impression, did the fire get more brisk with the air open?
JA600L
Minister of Fire
Nobody mentioned this so I will. Is it possible that your house is too tight ? Have you tried leaving an outside door or window open? Maybe the pull is just strong enough with the door open and can't with it closed.
Wisneaky
Minister of Fire
In that video you push that rod in which I assume is the damper. Are you supposed to shut it all the way? Does that stove have secondary burn tubes?
I think you should try it without the cap on once.
I actually did for about 10 minutes. the girlfriend said it looked as if the flames got even smaller.
That chimney is just short for a EPA stove to draft properly in anything but bone busting cold weather.
Originally I totally was hoping this was the issue. however its height is exactly what the manufacturer calls for, AND I added 3 more feet and didn't get a sliver of a difference. I'm not going to say this CANT be my issue, but I sure can't seem to verify it is.
Thank you Blazing! So refreshing to hear, especially after hearing how unsafe I'm apparently being. I'm trying to do the best I can with the conditions I have. I'm just here hoping someone will spot something I haven't already questioned. Some people don't realize I have been trying my best to find the answer myself before I even came here. Either way I really appreciate the kind words
can't really tell from the video you posted. What was your impression, did the fire get more brisk with the air open?
My impression was that it didn't change at all. It did die down, but that was due to it being a piece of paper. I could record you guys a video of the same thing when its actually going, and opening and shutting the damper does nothing. Maybe if I can get it to proper operating temp it may, but with the puny little fire I have now, its useless.
As of now my next step is maybe more wood testing, and if that doesn't work, pulling the stove. I have spent mucho denero, and grown many grey hairs... I really want this to one day soon be worth the head and heartache.
thank you all for your suggestions! Keep em coming! =o)
I actually did for about 10 minutes. the girlfriend said it looked as if the flames got even smaller.
That chimney is just short for a EPA stove to draft properly in anything but bone busting cold weather.
Originally I totally was hoping this was the issue. however its height is exactly what the manufacturer calls for, AND I added 3 more feet and didn't get a sliver of a difference. I'm not going to say this CANT be my issue, but I sure can't seem to verify it is.
Thank you Blazing! So refreshing to hear, especially after hearing how unsafe I'm apparently being. I'm trying to do the best I can with the conditions I have. I'm just here hoping someone will spot something I haven't already questioned. Some people don't realize I have been trying my best to find the answer myself before I even came here. Either way I really appreciate the kind words
can't really tell from the video you posted. What was your impression, did the fire get more brisk with the air open?
My impression was that it didn't change at all. It did die down, but that was due to it being a piece of paper. I could record you guys a video of the same thing when its actually going, and opening and shutting the damper does nothing. Maybe if I can get it to proper operating temp it may, but with the puny little fire I have now, its useless.
As of now my next step is maybe more wood testing, and if that doesn't work, pulling the stove. I have spent mucho denero, and grown many grey hairs... I really want this to one day soon be worth the head and heartache.
thank you all for your suggestions! Keep em coming! =o)
BKVP
Minister of Fire
Is it possible that your house is too tight
Excellent question. I read about this too. but unfortunately an open window just makes me colder lol
In that video you push that rod in which I assume is the damper. Are you supposed to shut it all the way?
No not typically, I just wanted to show there was no difference from fully shut/open
Does that stove have secondary burn tubes?
Yes it does
Excellent question. I read about this too. but unfortunately an open window just makes me colder lol
In that video you push that rod in which I assume is the damper. Are you supposed to shut it all the way?
No not typically, I just wanted to show there was no difference from fully shut/open
Does that stove have secondary burn tubes?
Yes it does
electrathon
Minister of Fire
I read this thread earlier, came back to ask about the outside air or lack of it. By your answer I am guessing you did not install it, correct? A short chimney, no outside air and possibly wet wood all togeather add up poorly. Direct Connection to combustion air without the need for extra draft suction really helps if you have draft issues already.
Wisneaky
Minister of Fire
Those secondary burn tubes should be rolling flames when the damper rod is shut. If it's not producing any flames from those tubes than I bet the wood isn't dry enough.
JA600L
Minister of Fire
The idea is not to leave the window open permanently. Leave it open for 5 minutes or so then close the door. See if it helps.
I am sorry but when we see some very obvious and very serious safety issues they need to be pointed out. I personally would not even work on that stove the way it is set up if i was called to your house. It is dangerous. Fix the clearance issues.
JA600L
Minister of Fire
Nobody here is insulting you or trying to upset you. Most of us came to this site with the same kind of safety issues. Thanks to the professionals on here who gently guide us in the right direction. We all care about your problem and the safety of your family. Safety and family come first.
colin.p
Burning Hunk
Well I have similar issues right now, and it is entirely due to crappy wood. The wood I got in this winter (from a new supplier) is definitely not dry enough and getting the wood to burn is a fight. However, I got 5 cords of it and hopefully a couple cords will be dry enough for next winter.
I am planning on getting a tri-axle load to build on my long term wood supply. Interestingly, I have some oak that is notoriously hard to burn, but this stuff burns like it's soaked in gasoline (well kind of).
I can understand the frustration of the OP, just I have had this problem for a few years now and fully experienced in burning issues (or the lack there-of) and in my case, it's always the wood quality. So don't give up, I know it's frustrating but it is a learning curve that you will figure out, and as far as the safety issues, they can be fixed as well.
I am planning on getting a tri-axle load to build on my long term wood supply. Interestingly, I have some oak that is notoriously hard to burn, but this stuff burns like it's soaked in gasoline (well kind of).
I can understand the frustration of the OP, just I have had this problem for a few years now and fully experienced in burning issues (or the lack there-of) and in my case, it's always the wood quality. So don't give up, I know it's frustrating but it is a learning curve that you will figure out, and as far as the safety issues, they can be fixed as well.
Good morning everyone.
If there is not enough draft then air will not be pulled through the secondary tubes. Construction scraps should be very dry.
If this is true then maybe the draft is fine. Once I get the fire big and hot enough the secondary's do lite
The idea is not to leave the window open permanently. Leave it open for 5 minutes or so then close the door. See if it helps.
Yes I know, I was attempting to have a little humor. Opening the window does nothing
Ok so here is the picture of the wood I'm burning... I plan to get a meter, but do you guys think it looks like its seasoned enough? If not I'm going to have a hard time finding wood this year because this is what everyone is selling.
![[Hearth.com] Help please, before i freeze to death](https://www.hearth.com/talk/data/attachments/164/164432-78d426644ad004f998dc0f78b2632470.jpg?hash=4JpzjsnUa9 "[Hearth.com] Help please, before i freeze to death")
If there is not enough draft then air will not be pulled through the secondary tubes. Construction scraps should be very dry.
If this is true then maybe the draft is fine. Once I get the fire big and hot enough the secondary's do lite
The idea is not to leave the window open permanently. Leave it open for 5 minutes or so then close the door. See if it helps.
Yes I know, I was attempting to have a little humor. Opening the window does nothing
Ok so here is the picture of the wood I'm burning... I plan to get a meter, but do you guys think it looks like its seasoned enough? If not I'm going to have a hard time finding wood this year because this is what everyone is selling.
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electrathon
Minister of Fire
Without a meter the best test I know to do is to split the wood, lay the fresh cut piece against your cheek. If it is cool, it is likely wet, the coolness is water. Not very accurate, but a quick backyard answer. I was splitting this weekend and have been playing with a meter, so far I have been wrong on every piece I guessed at. I had a few pieces I would have sworn were dry (nice deep open cracks, felt dry, sounded dry hitting them togeather) and they were at the 22 plus moisture content.
Sometimes it is surprising haw the accumulation of all of the little problems can add up to things not working. Improper air inlet, short chimney, wet wood... Any one is a problem, the three together can keep things from working. Plus the possibility of another unknown that has not surfaced yet. Also, the colder it is outside the easier it is to get a draft going.
Sometimes it is surprising haw the accumulation of all of the little problems can add up to things not working. Improper air inlet, short chimney, wet wood... Any one is a problem, the three together can keep things from working. Plus the possibility of another unknown that has not surfaced yet. Also, the colder it is outside the easier it is to get a draft going.
jatoxico
Minister of Fire
A lot of that stuff looks like pretty big splits. My stove isn't happy with stuff like that unless it's good and dry and already hot. Re-splitting some of that stuff down may help since you'll have better air/surface area ratio. Won't be surprised if the rounds are not dry.
Was that wood bought, too? In order to get it below 20% moisture content it needs to be split and stacked in a spot with lots of sun and wind. It is rare to find a firewood seller who has the time and space to do that. Still, they often advertise their wood as "seasoned" because it has been sitting in logs on their yard before being split sometimes at the day of delivery. A moisture meter will give you a final answer. I am also with jatoxico that wood still in rounds dries very poorly (at least in my hands). I now split everything down to 2" diameter branches at least once before stacking.
I would try BeGreen's suggestion of lumber scraps or go for compressed wood logs like Envi-blocks, BioBricks etc. That will help in figuring out whether the wood is the problem.
My guess is that once it really gets cold there will be just adequate draft and by then the wood will have dried out some more. At that point the wall behind the stove and stovepipe and the floor in front of the stove are going to get hot. What is the plan to fix these issues?
Double wall to the ceiling support box will help draft and depending on how close it is clearances as well.
Re-splitting some of that stuff down may help since you'll have better air/surface area ratio
Ok I will try this today
Was that wood bought, too?
yes. I just have installed the stove, and hadn't the chance of splitting my own. next year will be a different story.
I'm off to buy some toys. a maul, a infared thermometer, and a moisture meter. I'll report my findings later!
Thanks everyone
Ok I will try this today
Was that wood bought, too?
yes. I just have installed the stove, and hadn't the chance of splitting my own. next year will be a different story.
I'm off to buy some toys. a maul, a infared thermometer, and a moisture meter. I'll report my findings later!
Thanks everyone
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