on average it was 1 gallon a day for hot h2o. I ripped out the boiler and put in the electric heat pump. My electric bill went DOWN.
Everything Drolet Tundra - Heatmax...
- Thread starter brenndatomu
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on average it was 1 gallon a day for hot h2o. I ripped out the boiler and put in the electric heat pump. My electric bill went DOWN.
DoubleB
Minister of Fire
Ah, got it.
I don't remember if you have a hot water coil on your Kuuma, but if so, it's saving you the cost of your heat pump for 4-6 months per year that you burn wood. I'm guessing the heat pump costs about $20-$30/month for hot water? If so, the coil is saving you $120-$150/year nowadays, not $1200-$1500 of yesteryear. I'm not belittling your coil at all, I'm just trying to understand properly and get the right order of magnitude savings.
JRHAWK9
Minister of Fire
We have LP furnace, drier and water heater and we used a total of 135 gallons over 55 weeks last year. Roughly 38 gallons were used for the LP furnace over that timeframe. So over that same 55 weeks our drier and water heater used less than a combined 100 gallons.....or about 7 gallons a month for both on average.
I think you are misunderstanding me. My hpwh from april till november I make money on hot h20 free hot h20 and electric bill goes down. The Kuuma does have a coil but its just a helper, basicaly increases the amount of hot water on hand. With the hpwh the hot h2o coil saves me very little, if I was still on oil hot h2o the savings would be greater. My point was not that the coil was great, but rather how much money @brenndatomu could save with a hpwh.
DoubleB
Minister of Fire
Serial # 1500, about 4 months of heating noticed crack in face of furnace, near damper (photos attached). SBI wants me to hire a welder, I want a refund. Seriously when does this rise to the level of a class action law suit?
Anyone had any luck extracting a refund when SBIs initial response was repair?
Anyone had any luck extracting a refund when SBIs initial response was repair?
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DoubleB
Minister of Fire
Wow, that's a big one. Sorry to hear about that.
IIRC someone else recently reported in this thread that SBI wanted them to hire a welder, and I believe they held out until SBI refunded. If you look through the last several pages (I know, some time required), you'll find who it was, unless they speak up first.
For what it's worth, the space behind that crack is just empty airspace that the blower blows through. The firebox is right below it. The crack there might even be limiting full stress from reaching your firebox. I'm not at all saying the crack is good. But at least if it were to crack that's a less bad place for it. I have one there, too, although not quite as big.
IIRC someone else recently reported in this thread that SBI wanted them to hire a welder, and I believe they held out until SBI refunded. If you look through the last several pages (I know, some time required), you'll find who it was, unless they speak up first.
For what it's worth, the space behind that crack is just empty airspace that the blower blows through. The firebox is right below it. The crack there might even be limiting full stress from reaching your firebox. I'm not at all saying the crack is good. But at least if it were to crack that's a less bad place for it. I have one there, too, although not quite as big.
Most of the cracking is purely cosmetic. There is little room for a lawsuit in this case specially in the case that if the Tundra is installed by a certified installer and ran to spec it will not crack. The error here is in allowing too much user error in the design of how the Tundra operates so a class action law suit is highly unlikely.. However I will speak highly of SBI as they replaced my old model with a new updated model setup with proper measures so it can not be cracked by user error. It is a great furnace. Much better an more efficient than the first model. They tried to offer me a repair as well but I simply demanded a replacement. They did it with no argument. Call them an demand a replacement, tell them you are counting on this furnace to heat your home and are concerned about repairs not solving the problem or a rebuild kit. They will replace it if you stand firm and demand it. They will not issue a refund as that is not part of the warranty. SBI is great, makes awesome stoves they just screwed up letting people use thermostats without a better high limit shut off and lower fan turn on temps. They new tundra models is awesome. Trust that.
While this cracking issue is far from impressive, and obviously not optimal, I don't feel like it is a safety issue really. I think the fact that a couple of us have continued to run 'em that way long term with no issues kinda shows that. I mean these are a natural draft unit, that's a completely different animal than a cracked HE on a forced combustion oil or gas furnace.
I can't speak for everybody, but of the people that I know of that have made a warranty claim, most received store credit equal to what they paid for their unit. I think @Digger79 is the only one I know of that got a direct replacement. Can't say I know of anybody getting a complete "refund" in cash (per say)
I can't speak for everybody, but of the people that I know of that have made a warranty claim, most received store credit equal to what they paid for their unit. I think @Digger79 is the only one I know of that got a direct replacement. Can't say I know of anybody getting a complete "refund" in cash (per say)
DoubleB
Minister of Fire
I give @Digger79 credit for being more gracious than me. I agree SBI customer service has been great to many of us. I am hopeful (but need more evidence) that new Tundras won't crack. But as for the first 3 years of production, those Tundras seemed to crack a lot even when installed and operated to spec. I don't think user operation has much to do with it, it appears to be a design that doesn't accommodate enough thermal expansion.
DoubleB
Minister of Fire
Didn't someone on the a-site get a direct replacement unit in the early days?
I contacted SBI about the update in regards to the new blower switch and over temp switch locations and mounting and they said there is no such thing. Can you guys provide details? Anyone with a newer stove or who has moved theirs that can send pictures and details?
DoubleB
Minister of Fire
The first few hundred serial numbers had the snap disc on the rear of the furnace, I'm pretty sure inside the control box. I don't recall any pictures in this thread of the snap disc inside the control box, but Wisneaky's picture in post #3 on page 1 shows the top of his furnace doesn't have anything on it (other than ducts).
No later than serial number 7xx, the snap discs were relocated to the top of the furnace, and the snap discs and their wiring was enclosed under steel strips on top of the furnace as shown in post 994 of page 40. Still had the same control box on the rear of the furnace. Most of the Tundras/Heatmax's have this configuration.
If you asked SBI about a newer switch or location they might not have understood what you were asking since it happened a few years ago early in the production run.
So your limit switch is in the control box on the back? If so then I call BS on SBI, they moved the revised fan control and limit switch up on the top, in the middle. And there is extended wiring and metal "conduit" to run the wires in. They have given the "kit" to quite a few people that had the original "on the back" setup
You are both right. I am serial #609 and I asked for the updated switches/wiring for the new mounting location on top of the furnace instead of the control box on the back of the furnace. SBI said no such kit exists. I will try to further clarify with them.
Especially on start up, the top center of the furnace is way too hot to touch before the blower starts.
Especially on start up, the top center of the furnace is way too hot to touch before the blower starts.
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Honestly it isn't that hard to DIY. Get on fleabay and order a couple adjustable temp snap switches, extend the wires up to the middle of the top (there are already marks punched there where the switchs and the screws go) using high temp rated wire. You could easily DIY some EMT conduit to run the wires in to keep it clean looking.
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DoubleB
Minister of Fire
I agree with Brenn and Stihly, total BS.
Brenn's right, you should be able to DIY without too much trouble. However, before that I'd look up the more recent owner's manual, get the parts list for the parts and wires you need, and give them the BOM and ask them to send those parts to you. No sense re-inventing the wheel if you could hold their hand and help them out a little bit to remember exactly what they recently did on the subsequent 1500 units they produced.
You should be able to find a manual and see the difference between the parts in your manual, but if not let me know and if I find some time here I can try to find it for you.
New model Tundra won't crack. They got the damn fan coming on so soon plus high limit.. flu never goes over 750-800 so long you shut the door... lol. yeah I left it cracked too long one day and hit like 950-1000.. still no cracks. I freaked out. chit smelled warm but nothing melted nothing warped nothing cracked.. Prob caught it just before something went wrong. Gotta stop leaving that door cracked and walking out for 5 min w out setting a damn timer. lol. Anyhow I do know if the initial tundra was installed to spec and not left to run on a therm in a under insulated or over square foot size home for the furnace.. Tundra 1 would not crack. It was def due to the therm calling for heat with too low of a high limit switch. Once I figured out the problem I am confident I could have run Tundra 1 without cracking it but def would require modification. So Yeah SBI is at fault as well the users IMO including myself. I've been thru 2 models now, lots of time on phone with SBI techs, welders discussing things. The new model I've had for 2 seasons now this being the 2nd. Ive cranked it up hot as I can an the new controls will not let it over heat. I am having a little issue with the fan coming on so early and staying on so late. It does blow cool air for a while at startup and end of burns. Even though its pushing mild heat even though it feels cold.. which should ultimately put more heat in the home.. I am thinking a slight adjustment allowing the plenum to heat just a little bit more could produce better heating on demand. The new model is solid no doubt. They idiot proofed it.
An added not about the cracking... I was concerned with pinging noises new stove was making an discussed this w SBI as well. They assured me the new model would not crack on me and said relax... If your new unit cracks we will send you a new one again and again you have our word. So far so good. It takes a little work and phone calls work best and demanding they return calls. I found dealing with emails they tried to blow me off but soon as I got verbally in contact with them customer service was far better. Prob have a email protocol to follow so working with them live thru phone calls works best. SBI is a smaller company than we may think and some of the people working at customer service in CA are actually good people, former welders and techs for SBI and I was shocked they actually gave a crap about me and my dismay with this situation. One tech advised me no deny the repair and demand the replacement but not to tell SBI she said so. She was a welder. Thats pretty good customer service IMO.
