BK Ashford 30 Install

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Phew, the cat can breathe again! Is it normal to get that much buildup and clogging? There is a gap about 1/4" in my cat guard plate. I checked about a month ago and did not see any buildup like that, maybe something to do with the slower oak burns?
That at least makes sense with my recent problems in the past two weeks. Just ordered the 45s as well...
 

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Phew, the cat can breathe again! Is it normal to get that much buildup and clogging? There is a gap about 1/4" in my cat guard plate. I checked about a month ago and did not see any buildup like that, maybe something to do with the slower oak burns?
That at least makes sense with my recent problems in the past two weeks. Just ordered the 45s as well...
I had that gap on mine, I think it was heat induced so I straightened it out.
 
Phew, the cat can breathe again! Is it normal to get that much buildup and clogging? There is a gap about 1/4" in my cat guard plate. I checked about a month ago and did not see any buildup like that, maybe something to do with the slower oak burns?
That at least makes sense with my recent problems in the past two weeks. Just ordered the 45s as well...
Your cat looks like it’s popped out a smidge. If you haven’t done so already, gently push on those tabs and set it back in place as far back as it will go. I get fly ash accumulate on my cat as well. Just brush it off or gently vacuum.
 
There is a gap about 1/4" in my cat guard plate. I checked about a month ago and did not see any buildup like that, maybe something to do with the slower oak burns?
That at least makes sense with my recent problems in the past two weeks. Just ordered the 45s as well...
Looks like the buildup was on the upper part of the cat, and the gap was on the bottom?
Until you get the 45s in, anything that cuts draft (liked a clogged cat) is going to let the stove emit more odor.
Not sure if Oak is worse for ash but it's what Ashful mainly burns, I think, and he talks about brushing the cat rather often...
My stove has a screen for a flame shield, and it seems to catch some of the ash. I have to brush it a few times a season, and the cat maybe twice. 16' stack, rear-vent.
 
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Phew, the cat can breathe again! Is it normal to get that much buildup and clogging?

I have noticed that burning at higher settings seems to send more particulates up through the Cat. Rarely a issue for my setup but I have seen it.
I've been leaving the stat closed much further than recommended while opening the loading door and removing ash also. Not sure if that is making a huge difference but it seems to reduce floating flyash.
Occasionally the face of my cat gets vac'd. The rear does as well. Probably 3 times this season so far. Takes seconds.
Never had as much buildup as you have pictured. Yet! Good luck and nice to hear you are working through the setup/learning curve challenges and details to get this setup buttoned up.
 
Phew, the cat can breathe again! Is it normal to get that much buildup and clogging?
I’ve been having problems with ash buildup and clogging on one of my Ashfords, only when burning on a high setting. My other Ashford is on a shorter chimney, and never, ever, ever burned high, so no issues with that one.

Yours doesn’t look that bad, I can do that amount of damage in just a single load. I’ve had them plugged completely solid once or twice, to where the fire dies every time I engage the cat.

My solution: keep interam gasket on-hand, pull cat and vacuum it whenever it gets plugged. It’s too hard to get a vacuum nozzle up to the face of the cat in the Ashford, and I usually want to vacuum the chamber behind it anyway, rather than sucking the crap back there into the back of the cat.

I did try compressed air to blow it clean, while installed in the stove once, but will never make that mistake again! I’ll probably be finding dust in crevices about the house for the next ten years, after that bone-headed move.

Installing a key damper to control draft has really helped with the problem, in my case, as I have a very tall chimney that sucks like... well, never mind. However, I do something bone-headed and let it run too hard a few times each year, defeating the advantage.

Woodstock Fireviews had the same problem, but they resolved it by placing a screen in front of the cat. Lots of posts on this forum ca.2012/13 about users removing and vacuuming that screen as part of their weekly cleaning routine, although most of those users and posts were deleted in the great Exodus of 2013.
 
Not easy to see from the pics but the top two corners were fully jammed, about 1/3 of the area blocked. It was putting out the flame when I closed the bypass unless there was a big blazing fire of small splits. It's been on inactive a lot, about 2-3 times a day because I'm not getting good enough burn times to make it overnight and during the day. I can't load it up without it getting above 80°F downstairs when in the 40's outside.

After cat cleaning there is certainly better airflow through the stove but the typical creo smell is no different. Just a little bit slower draft or too low flame and we are getting some smell upstairs. Depending on what is going on in the box that could be at 75-90% air setting.
 
I just had my Ashford 30 installed 2 weeks ago and I've had nothing but a great experience so far. I'm sorry that you're going through all of this, but its amazing how the same stove in 2 different set ups acts so differently. I hope you get it straightened out and really start to enjoy this stove. I am thrilled with mine after coming from an old smoke dragon. Good luck~
 
I just had my Ashford 30 installed 2 weeks ago and I've had nothing but a great experience so far. I'm sorry that you're going through all of this, but its amazing how the same stove in 2 different set ups acts so differently. I hope you get it straightened out and really start to enjoy this stove. I am thrilled with mine after coming from an old smoke dragon. Good luck~
Glad to hear it. Good you're chimney layout was optimal and you didn't up with a $4K new smoke dragon.
 
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Great, to make things worse I came home tonight and the stove was cold, relit with 4 or 5 small logs with the bypass closed. I got it going, but my next overnight load just started dying after 20 min with air on full. When I open the bypass the air started rushing through. <>

Guess I'm going to have to cool down the stove again tomorrow to reclean.

Has anyone had a more painful experience with a BK than what I'm dealing with?
 
Great, to make things worse I came home tonight and the stove was cold, relit with 4 or 5 small logs with the bypass closed. I got it going, but my next overnight load just started dying after 20 min with air on full. When I open the bypass the air started rushing through. <>

Sooooo? Why would you try to relight with the bypass closed? Completely incorrect procedure. On a cold stove relight are you not running the stove with the bypass open until your cat gauge reaches active? Then closing the bypass on that fresh full load leaving the stat on full air for BK's recommended 20-30 minutes before reducing air to your normal cruise spot. Fire dying at the 20 min mark indicates a real problem with either your setup, procedure or fuel in my opinion. Is there any local experienced BK users near you that can stop by to trouble shoot? Gotta be somebody nearby who can give it a look. Believe I'd swallow my pride and start a new thread asking for a local experienced BK user to come give me help.

Might want to re read this page from your Op Man.
(broken link removed to https://www.blazeking.com/EN/PDF/manuals/OM-AF30-E.pdf)
 
@moresnow
No no, let me rephrase. Before I got home, a certain someone had reloaded a cold stove and immediately closed the bypass. There were smouldering half burnt logs left. I opened the bypass and cracked the door and got a flame going. Then I threw on about 5 small ash logs that got it up to active temp to get ready for the overnight load.

I'm about to check, but I think the cat is replugged. If you read the last 5-10 posts they were about how when the cat is plugged the flame can go out when the bypass is closed.
 
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No no, let me rephrase. Before I got home, a certain someone had reloaded a cold stove and immediately closed the bypass. There were smouldering half burnt logs left. I opened the bypass and cracked the door and got a flame going. Then I threw on about 5 small ash logs that got it up to active temp to get ready for the overnight load.

I'm about to check, but I think the cat is replugged. If you read the last 5-10 posts they were about how when the cat is plugged the flame can go out when the bypass is closed.

Ahhhh, the certain someone situation! That can be remedied with time, teaching and patience;lol My certain someone is completely capable of running ours. It took awhile to get her there!

I have been monitoring your progress the entire journey. Including the plugging cat issue. Your rough road seems like it has to have a reasonable explanation/solution. Like I have mentioned it may be time for a fresh set of eyes/hands to help you out. Or confirm there is something out of the ordinary happening. Just a thought. Best of luck.
 
Great, to make things worse I came home tonight and the stove was cold, relit with 4 or 5 small logs with the bypass closed. I got it going, but my next overnight load just started dying after 20 min with air on full. When I open the bypass the air started rushing through. <>

Guess I'm going to have to cool down the stove again tomorrow to reclean.

Has anyone had a more painful experience with a BK than what I'm dealing with?
Why did you start a fire from cold with the bypass closed? That's not the proper procedure for a cold start - your bypass should be open until your cat is active. It's not surprising that your fire was sluggish in this instance. Follow the manual.
 
@MissMac , read the next two posts.

So now I went to go remove and inspect the cat, it was clean... but in the process I disintegrated the cat gasket. So I have a bunch of material on order and stove is down..

I'm a little worried the cat is decaying. It looked okay but I do see a lot of red powder. There was a lot when I ran the stove on high trying to cure the paint. It's possible I may have hit some wet spots in this oak stash, most of it was ~18%. There was about 2 cups of coals and it was about 20° on the dial above the active mark when I filled the E-W 25lb oak load and threw one 1lb oak stick on the coal. Might have been a little too low of a start. The chimney may be a little clogged too.
 
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Glad to hear it. Good you're chimney layout was optimal and you didn't up with a $4K new smoke dragon.
BK sells thousands of stoves per year, and very few setups are “optimal”, but they work. I’m running two BK’s in this house, one on a 15 foot chimney and the other on 30 feet, and both run just fine. There is likely no reason your setup shouldn’t work, in the right hands.

Has anyone had a more painful experience with a BK than what I'm dealing with?
There have been a few, mostly self-inflicted. That’s not a dig at you, I honestly haven’t been paying enough attention to the history of this thread to have a solid mental picture of what you’ve been through. But I can say I’ve seen many life-long smoke dragon burners come to this forum, way past the point of frustration, get straightened out pretty quickly. Almost all of them will tell you today that they’d never go back, once they finally saw the light.

Then there are a few that were just too stubborn to listen, insisting on doing things “their way”, rather than taking the advice given here. You just can’t help some folks.

What I’d like to do, and ask others here to do, is go back and read through your posts. Let’s see if we can help you get this thing burning right. I’m going to make it my homework for later tonight.
 
@Ashful
That would be great. I really think there some inherent problems due to my install causing poor draft and very high stall point. Mainly stemming from:
-90degree 2ft above stove
-Tee and wall exit
-Exterior chimney without a chase.

As far as performance I think I was able to get about a 15hr burn earlier in smoke mode, just that it was releasing lots of smoke into the house. Mostly the goal is to get consistent 10-12hr lower heat burns and not get smoke in the house without the stars being perfectly aligned.

I had no idea that "recommended/preferred" in the manual was recommending/preferring you prevent smoke spraying into your house. Otherwise I would have been super stringent about those requirements.
 
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Also, quick question. So only the bottom cat gasket edge stayed intact. I was able to stuff the crumbs around the other three edges but it's not perfect. Could this damage the combustor if the gasket is not perfect? Any tips for securing the gasket material before inserting the cat? Replacements normally comes with a paper band...
 
Also, quick question. So only the bottom cat gasket edge stayed intact. I was able to stuff the crumbs around the other three edges but it's not perfect. Could this damage the combustor if the gasket is not perfect? Any tips for securing the gasket material before inserting the cat? Replacements normally comes with a paper band...
Just got to reading your thread through, but this one is easy:

1. No, it will not harm your cat to run it with an imperfect gasket, it will only diminish performance. You should get to replacing it, sooner than later, but don't let a damaged cat gasket keep you from burning while you await the arrival of a new one.

2. Gasket is disposable, to be replaced each time you pull it. It only costs $2 per foot, and you need 2.5 feet per installation, so it's a $5/per cat pull type thing. Order 10 or 20 feet of it from an online stove shop, or pick it up locally. It's called "interam" gasket, and it's 2" wide.

Most folks will tell you that you should never have to pull a cat before it's due for replacement, around 3 years for a 24/7 burner. However, I'm becoming a fan of pulling them for the yearly cleaning. It gives me a chance to inspect it, vacuum it clean, and clean the chimney sweepings out of the cat chamber without pulling my stovepipe.
 
although most of those users and posts were deleted in the great Exodus of 2013.

;lol I don’t think I’ve ever heard it described that way. ;lol
 
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Okay, I read every one of your posts, and even a few of the responses. Forgive me if I'm repeating a lot of what was already said, some of that is intentional, but also some is probably because I didn't take the time to read every response already given by every contributor. In any case, some repeat, or even refutation of what has already been said, might be useful at this stage of the game.

It's 19.5ft outside with two 15° elbows to go around the roofline. It's 50°F out and draft seems decent. There is some smoke spillage when it is opened and there are good flames going.
Plus another elbow indoors. Plus another tee on the outside of that wall. Each elbow or tee effectively reduces your chimney height. Old member Backwoods Savage used to always quote the effective height reduction as 2 - 3 feet per 90 degree elbow, which means your original 3' inside + 19.5' outside would be an effective 12.5 feet by his estimate, although I'd bet his numbers are another subject of debate.

Smoke spillage is a definite sign of weak draft in an Ashford 30, the one I have on a 30 foot pipe that never spills an ounce of smoke, no matter when in the burn cycle I open it. The one on the 15 foot pipe rarely spills smoke when I open the door, but it has on a few occasions.


Even now after 6hrs it's still getting some smoke in the house. I had to open a bunch of windows again. I have young kids in the house, I might need to shut it down until it gets colder :confused:

Would it help to run it hotter? It was at about 5/10 most of today, now just increased it to 6.
Usually, yes. Draft increases with chimney temperature, and chimney temperature increases with burn rate.

There is about 3' inside and 19.5' outside. It doesn't smell like paint curing, more of a creosote type smell. And I'm pretty positive it is coming from the probe hole...
A few members have reported the same, you are not alone. All but one case of smoke smell have been resolved except one that I am aware. Also all but one were user or installation issues, as far as we know on this forum, I only recall one that was an actual manufacturing issue (incomplete weld leaking creo). The point is, there is a good chance this will be resolved.

Again today, fine when running high, but anything below 7/10 seems to emit some odor. It's now in the 40's. Our 10mo old was coughing all last night. I'm starting to get concerned about the air quality and disappointed overall with this whole endeavor.

Sounds like possibility not a perfect draft and maybe a connector problem? There aren't even any screws connecting the DVL adapter to the stove outlet, just slipped on. Should they have also put some sealant on all the DVL?
At this point, I'd be ordering some equipment to measure the draft. I went with a 0.25"WC Magnehelic off ebay, but there are less expensive options out there.

I just called BK and they said it was definitely a draft issue. The easiest thing would be to add 3ft more chimney to meet the recommended height... should have played it safe during the install. :mad:

The temp probe IS directly tapped into the combustor output, so smoke will come out there with poor draft.
Following the timeline of your story, I'd have said the same thing, at this point. Four 90's is an awful lot for 22.5 feet of pipe, when you're aiming for an effective 15 feet.

So update for anyone still reading:

Ordered a 3ft chimney extension and mostly running it full open or 75% a few logs at a time. I tried wrapping a few layers of tinfoil around the probe which seemed to help, but on Sunday I tried a 60% setting with 5 med logs and once it damped down I saw two big puffs of smoke come out of all the dvl connections! Is that normal?
Backpuffing at low burn rates is another indicator of low draft. I used to have the same problem with one of my Jotuls on a 15 foot x 8" clay tile exterior flue. I dropped a 6" liner into that cold clay tile flue, and it was mostly resolved. I moved the stove to the 30 foot flue, and it was completely resolved. We didn't need this to think draft is too low, but this is yet one more indicator.

Luckily it is now staying in the 30's or 20's which should help. How much flue do you need to be able to run medium/low air without getting any smoke in the house? Does anyone have success with a BK wall exit? I'm wondering if my dreams of the 20hr+ are impossible for my setup. Having the window cracked is kind of detracting from the efficiency gained by the BK.
I am doing it on 15 feet of fully insulated liner, straight up. Truth be told, I have had a light creo smell in the house on a few occasions, but that's been the exception. I believe each time has been under one of two conditions:

1. I run the stove on the 15 foot pipe at a very low rate, while having another big air demand in the house, like letting the stove on the 30 foot pipe rip wide open.

2. My house is shaped like a big "U", with a central courtyard, and one stove at either end of the "U". When wind conditions are right, smoke from one chimney can be drawn in as make-up air in windows across the courtyard. Others living in areas prone to downdrafts have reported similar issues, smoke being drawn in from outside, as make-up air. It's possible you are unknowingly resolving this by opening a window near the stove, reducing the need to bring in that make-up air from some location in the smoke path of your chimney, but this seems unlikely if you successfully burned another stove on this chimney.

That sounds pretty similar to my situation. Around the 3:30 is where I'm trying to run overnight. But I get smell everytime. It's always warmed up beforehand for an hour or two on high. Last night I ran at 4:30 setting and there was very little (also 20 degrees out). I don't always have big logs that can last that long. It seems better for me if I warm the flue and then on the overnight load I turn it down earlier and let itself slowly damp the air. If its fully ignited, hot and try to turn down it will smoke hard.

The current supply is 2yr seasoned ash. It was 20% last winter.

I'm wondering if everyone gets this creosote smell at some setting or if that's particular to poor draft setups?
Oddly enough, one guy here (@aaronk25 ) seemed to be reporting a smell with an unusually high draft. But yes, I suspect others are related to low draft. However, most of us just see our stoves stall out when we try to run too low for our draft, the creo smell issue really has been isolated to just a fraction of the users. It has been mostly Ashford 30 users, though...

Yes, I did search for an interior chimney solution. There is no spot where the pipe can run through without horribly disrupting the rooms. Above this now is the master bed. It would have a very inconvenient position in the room with the pipe running through.

I can easily add more pipe to the top, that is the plan. The downside is that it will have an increasingly awkward appearance to the outside of our modern suburban house. Right now it is sticking up 6' above the roofline on the frontside of the house.

The 90, tee and 15's are definitely limiting the draft. The BK manual calls for 25ft vertical rise with this setup while I'm currently at 22ft. So I'll see how it runs when I return in town next year and add the 3ft.
But you still have the double jog to get around the soffit? It seems the ideal setup would be:

1. Replace indoor 90 with dual 45's.
2. Punch straight thru soffit, get rid of jog up there.
3. Increase height a few feet.

It looks like my "safe" setting is about 4:30 which keeps it about the start of high with a full load. It's enough to last the night but it's a little hotter than needed for nighttime downstairs.

My new chimney pipe came in dent free so I'm hoping that will let me lower the min setting to 3:00 or lower, smoke free.
I run each of mine around 3:00, and my stall points are probably close to 2:00, just for reference. Oddly, the difference between stall point on the two is within minutes on the clock face, very small differences for a two-to-one difference in my two chimney heights.

I'm going to stop here for the night, bed time. I read the rest, so yes... I already know you've added height, and are still having trouble. I'll respond to the rest later.
 
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Thanks for all the time Ashful. If you haven't seen, BK has a guide in their latest manual revision that allows you to calculate effective flue height. 45=1ft, 90=2ft, tee=3ft. Horiz run= 2ft/ft horiz. According to that I'd need about 23-24ft vertical. I have about 25ft now with the extension.
 
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Thanks for all the time Ashful. If you haven't seen, BK has a guide in their latest manual revision that allows you to calculate effective flue height. 45=1ft, 90=2ft, tee=3ft. Horiz run= 2ft/ft horiz. According to that I'd need about 23-24ft vertical. I have about 25ft now with the extension.

Cool. We can check that box, then.

More tonight, if I get to readin’ before I get to drinkin’. :-)
 
Also, this corrugated Selkirk DSP is horrible pipe. It clearly provides no sealing of the air, just "directs" the smoke. Look at what came out when I blew a hair dryer up the flue.
 

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