Are you waiting to long to close the damper? Or waiting to long to start shutting the primary air.?Thats what I figured. What about @NewGuy132 ?
I have the other problem on a full load sometimes it all off gases at once and the cat spikes to 1600
Hot reloads can be tricky sometimes depending on the current cat temp. Last night I did a reload with the cat at 450*. This time I pushed all the coals to the back to give it a try. Cat definitely took off quick, however, I think my glass suffered from this. When I checked on it around 11 the glass was pretty dirty from having to shut down the primary to fast.I think didn't leave the damper open long enough. Hot reload packed it closed the damper closed the primary down in stages eventually all the way. And just slowly ticked its way up to little above 1600 stayed there for 30 min then settled back around 1300 ran normal the rest of the burn another 7 hours or so. Thinking it just smoldered and smoked
My cat was at like 600 so probably had too many coal in the back then the gas and smoke just took off. I let the cat get lower before my overnight and had no issues. The whole time the cat was going insane the stove temp never got over 650Hot reloads can be tricky sometimes depending on the current cat temp. Last night I did a reload with the cat at 450*. This time I pushed all the coals to the back to give it a try. Cat definitely took off quick, however, I think my glass suffered from this. When I checked on it around 11 the glass was pretty dirty from having to shut down the primary to fast.
I usually push the coals back do you not normally do that?Hot reloads can be tricky sometimes depending on the current cat temp. Last night I did a reload with the cat at 450*. This time I pushed all the coals to the back to give it a try. Cat definitely took off quick, however, I think my glass suffered from this. When I checked on it around 11 the glass was pretty dirty from having to shut down the primary to fast.
In these situations you can open the damper and start the process over. Let the flue hit 600, close the damper, start closing primary in increments.My cat was at like 600 so probably had too many coal in the back then the gas and smoke just took off. I let the cat get lower before my overnight and had no issues. The whole time the cat was going insane the stove temp never got over 650
I pull them forward to the glass. Helps keep the glass clean. Also it’s easier to visually monitor what’s going on in the fireboxI usually push the coals back do you not normally do that?
I never burned a wood stove before this season. Always jus thought it was a cast iron box with air control to slow burnt he wood. This is way more complicated than I ever thought. Knowing what I know now I'd probably have gone with a different stove but my dealer sold me on this. Mainly on looks because I had no clue how involved this would be. And it does look great in my living room, but it requires a lot more thought than I anticipated signing up for. Other than that, it will cost me less than half of what oil would cost me to heat my house so all in all I think it is a win. Basically paid the stove off in one seasonWell another nightmare burn last night.....
Time to start plugging holes again I guess.... I hate this stove....
- Full load of big splits, al seemed fine when I went to bed
- Awakened by my cat alarm set to 1500
- Opened the bypass damper and flue temps went through the roof, 1200F
- Closed primary air down started to get back puffing so had to open it back up a bit.
- Tried to engage cat again, went to 1600.... opened damper
- Got things under control, went to bed again as temps were dropping.
- Cat Launched again and then gave up... out of fuel.
View attachment 305342
Interesting, your griddle gasket looks way way way WAY thicker than mine.
Another person had this issue on a brand new stove. Maybe a defect? Might be worth checking put could be the over fire causeInteresting, your griddle gasket looks way way way WAY thicker than mine.
I love burning wood and all that goes with it, felling, bucking splitting, stacking etc.... I find it very fulfilling.I never burned a wood stove before this season. Always jus thought it was a cast iron box with air control to slow burnt he wood. This is way more complicated than I ever thought. Knowing what I know now I'd probably have gone with a different stove but my dealer sold me on this. Mainly on looks because I had no clue how involved this would be. And it does look great in my living room, but it requires a lot more thought than I anticipated signing up for. Other than that, it will cost me less than half of what oil would cost me to heat my house so all in all I think it is a win. Basically paid the stove off in one season
I just replaced my griddle gasket and mine is thinner and covered in stainless mesh.Interesting, your griddle gasket looks way way way WAY thicker than mine.
I've burned my VC since we bought it new in 87. Many of those years was with just a STT magnetic thermometer. It's almost like the more monitoring the more stressful it gets. I burned mine for a while as a metal box with an air control and didn't engage the cat as I knew it was burned out. The stove worked fine, I could get 8-9 hour burns and heat my home just fine. Granted I did have to clean the chimney during heating season and it did build creosote. This year I resealed the stove, put a new cat in and put a temperature probe on the cat and replaced the secondary air control coil. I've had more stress over the stove then I ever did in the past. There's a few things that I think have caused my stress. I think the newer cats are more active than the older ones. I think my secondary air never worked for years and was stuck shut. Now that I have it working it's causing more problems that I didn't have before. Add the digital display of the probe and it's a lot more stressful than before.I never burned a wood stove before this season. Always jus thought it was a cast iron box with air control to slow burnt he wood. This is way more complicated than I ever thought. Knowing what I know now I'd probably have gone with a different stove but my dealer sold me on this. Mainly on looks because I had no clue how involved this would be. And it does look great in my living room, but it requires a lot more thought than I anticipated signing up for. Other than that, it will cost me less than half of what oil would cost me to heat my house so all in all I think it is a win. Basically paid the stove off in one season
haha for sure it does. I had no idea the concept of downdraft. But now it seems entirely counterproductive to this process. Smoke naturally will want to go up. Why force it down? Seems this was overengineered but what do I know, I sit at a desk all dayI love burning wood and all that goes with it, felling, bucking splitting, stacking etc.... I find it very fulfilling.
The VC stoves are beautiful, no doubt about it and they have some awesome features. But these newer 2n1 stoves are terrible designs. No doubt the quest for higher efficiency and tightening EPA regulations have made it much harder to design a stable wood burner, but I think removing the the secondary air control was a huge mistake. Not that the older stoves with secondary air control were perfect either.... but I suspect they were easier to control.
All stoves have their idiosyncrasies, some are more touchy than others. There is always a learning process, you learn what the stove likes and doesn't like and eventually you should be able to achieve repeatable burns (assuming consistent dry wood of course). With my stove I have been experimenting, modding and learning for 10 years..... I am fairly certain for my design (defiant model 1975) there is no process that will yield consistent burns, the design is inherently unstable. I have days and even weeks where things seem fine and then I will get a string of cat over-temps. I do not know why.....
Never again will I buy a newer VC stove or any other stove without active secondary air control. Not what you want to hear but misery loves company.....
I had no stress before the digital probe. I just did it by feel and engaged the cat and let it go. No doubt it was overheating but I had no clue so no worries. Figure I will absolutely destroy this cat this season and hopefully have it somewhat figured out by the time next season starts and just start fresh. Wonder if a steel cat would function better or not. My fear is it would warp quickly since the cat temps get so high sometimes.I've burned my VC since we bought it new in 87. Many of those years was with just a STT magnetic thermometer. It's almost like the more monitoring the more stressful it gets. I burned mine for a while as a metal box with an air control and didn't engage the cat as I knew it was burned out. The stove worked fine, I could get 8-9 hour burns and heat my home just fine. Granted I did have to clean the chimney during heating season and it did build creosote. This year I resealed the stove, put a new cat in and put a temperature probe on the cat and replaced the secondary air control coil. I've had more stress over the stove then I ever did in the past. There's a few things that I think have caused my stress. I think the newer cats are more active than the older ones. I think my secondary air never worked for years and was stuck shut. Now that I have it working it's causing more problems that I didn't have before. Add the digital display of the probe and it's a lot more stressful than before.
So not mistaken this gasket with wire mesh gasket.Interesting, your griddle gasket looks way way way WAY thicker than mine.
Ive only really found one way to burn with my dauntless. Medium.I love burning wood and all that goes with it, felling, bucking splitting, stacking etc.... I find it very fulfilling.
The VC stoves are beautiful, no doubt about it and they have some awesome features. But these newer 2n1 stoves are terrible designs. No doubt the quest for higher efficiency and tightening EPA regulations have made it much harder to design a stable wood burner, but I think removing the the secondary air control was a huge mistake. Not that the older stoves with secondary air control were perfect either.... but I suspect they were easier to control.
All stoves have their idiosyncrasies, some are more touchy than others. There is always a learning process, you learn what the stove likes and doesn't like and eventually you should be able to achieve repeatable burns (assuming consistent dry wood of course). With my stove I have been experimenting, modding and learning for 10 years..... I am fairly certain for my design (defiant model 1975) there is no process that will yield consistent burns, the design is inherently unstable. I have days and even weeks where things seem fine and then I will get a string of cat over-temps. I do not know why.....
Never again will I buy a newer VC stove or any other stove without active secondary air control. Not what you want to hear but misery loves company.....
I think my air control bimetal whatever is buggy. If you have it on high, sometimes when you shut it down it doesnt respond so I have to go back and forth with it for it to finally unstick. Bet it's creosote between the coils. Genius design.I've burned my VC since we bought it new in 87. Many of those years was with just a STT magnetic thermometer. It's almost like the more monitoring the more stressful it gets. I burned mine for a while as a metal box with an air control and didn't engage the cat as I knew it was burned out. The stove worked fine, I could get 8-9 hour burns and heat my home just fine. Granted I did have to clean the chimney during heating season and it did build creosote. This year I resealed the stove, put a new cat in and put a temperature probe on the cat and replaced the secondary air control coil. I've had more stress over the stove then I ever did in the past. There's a few things that I think have caused my stress. I think the newer cats are more active than the older ones. I think my secondary air never worked for years and was stuck shut. Now that I have it working it's causing more problems that I didn't have before. Add the digital display of the probe and it's a lot more stressful than before.
im not sure what you mean by the 4th click back puffs. Are you going from lowest to highest with 3 clicks and the 4th click backpuffs?i also dont fill my stove anymore. 3 decent logs and watch for 20 minutes or so before going to bed.i also cant damper down more than 3 clicks on the air. i f i go to the 4th i will get a back puff. occasionally i will go in between the 3rd and 4th click on the air. id like to just get a whole new stove but the wife would kill me.
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