2018-19 Blaze King Performance Thread Part 1 (Everything BK)

[lsucet]

I guess what I was worried about is my probe which is actually 37” above stove top spends a lot of its time between 200-250. The prob is that high because 18” would of meant going through all 4 layers of the telescoping pipe. I’m burning mostly spruce that is at least three years old now so it is dry. I do char the wood good at the beginning of the burn and my probe usually gets up between 600 and 750 but rapidly drops when shut down. I guess I thought as long as it was active I was ok but maybe that’s not true?

I will go for the cat being into the active zone. that is the way this stoves work. I run one of them for a while without flue probe and now with flue probe i still run it the same. I dont see any different on creosote when i clean the chimney than with previous stoves. i can go the whole season without worries.

 

[Ashful]

Ashful how low are you turning it down. I’m new to this but my probe temp when running low is definitely cooler than yours.

Actually, your post made me realize I made a mistake, above. The 22 hour number I posted was EXTERNAL, on single wall stove pipe. All other temperatures were INTERNAL, in double wall stove pipe.

They were recorded at a burn rate setting that typically gives me 12 - 14 hour reloads on a nice coal bed. I am running almost 100% oak, with an occasional piece of Sassafras that managed to find it’s way into the mix.

 

[bholler]

I will go for the cat being into the active zone. that is the way this stoves work. I run one of them for a while without flue probe and now with flue probe i still run it the same. I dont see any different on creosote when i clean the chimney than with previous stoves. i can go the whole season without worries.

I see a huge difference in mine. And in the chimneys i clean.

 

[MissMac]

I guess what I was worried about is my probe which is actually 37” above stove top spends a lot of its time between 200-250. The prob is that high because 18” would of meant going through all 4 layers of the telescoping pipe. I’m burning mostly spruce that is at least three years old now so it is dry. I do char the wood good at the beginning of the burn and my probe usually gets up between 600 and 750 but rapidly drops when shut down. I guess I thought as long as it was active I was ok but maybe that’s not true?

I think that you need to remember that you're chatting with a group of guys who are stove enthusiasts here. They are way more into the details and weeds about how their stove's run, taking measurements, tweaking set ups etc. The manual that comes with the stove tells the average user (the majority of people likely) how to run the stove - using the cat probe. If BK wanted all of its stoves ran using heat measurements in the flue at various stack heights, then that's what would be in the manual. But they don't write that stuff, cause it's more involved than most end users want to be, and would create way more issues than it would resolve. Instead, BK says run your stove based off the cat probe, and check your chimney for creo and clean accordingly.

However, if you're one of the people who digs getting into the weeds about how your stove is performing, then get into them. If you're not, don't overthink it. Follow good wood burning practices, tight door gasket if you have a cat, burn seasoned wood <20%MC, follow the manual for your stove, monitor your chimney and clean as necessary.

My two cents.

 

[lsucet]

I see a huge difference in mine. And in the chimneys i clean.

I believe it can be a difference. Non cat regardless, you burn hot (nature of the beast). I always burn hot on reloads or initial fire, possibly that helps. Sometimes is not desirable cause it get too hot but once i dial it down things gets okay

 

[Highbeam]

If you read the literature, the active cat eats all of the creosote forming stuff. Just water and CO2 coming out the stack right?

 

[bholler]

If you read the literature, the active cat eats all of the creosote forming stuff. Just water and CO2 coming out the stack right?

No not true. The cat eats allot of it but there is still plenty left to cause a problem. I do like the nice even heat but so far it seems to make the chimney pretty dirty

 

[lsucet]

No not true. The cat eats allot of it but there is still plenty left to cause a problem. I do like the nice even heat but so far it seems to make the chimney pretty dirty

Can we question your wood MC?

 

[showrguy]

Can we question your wood MC?

I dare ya !!

 

[lsucet]

I dare ya !!

 

[bholler]

Can we question your wood MC?

14 to 18. I have been burning a long time i know how to dry wood. My experience reflects what i have seen in the chimneys of other bks i have cleaned as well. Again i like the stove and how it heats. But i am not seeing the magic of massive woodsavings or really clean low burns some here claim.

 

[lsucet]

14 to 18. I have been burning a long time i know how to dry wood. My experience reflects what i have seen in the chimneys of other bks i have cleaned as well. Again i like the stove and how it heats. But i am not seeing the magic of massive woodsavings or really clean low burns some here claim.

I am just messing with you.

 

[lsucet]

14 to 18. I have been burning a long time i know how to dry wood. My experience reflects what i have seen in the chimneys of other bks i have cleaned as well. Again i like the stove and how it heats. But i am not seeing the magic of massive woodsavings or really clean low burns some here claim.

I spend all day every day doing this I am just going by the day.

 

[bholler]

I spend all day every day doing this I am just going by the day.

Doing what? I am not following you

 

[lsucet]

I don't know what happened.

 

[bholler]

I don't know what happened.

???

 

[lsucet]

???[/QUOT
rebuilding transmissions. I attached the picture before but for some reason it didn't showed when i quoted you.

 

[bholler]

Ok i was lost lol. On that note for an eod behind a lightly modified 351 in a 1990 bronco would you recomend a shift kit or performance vavle body? And what tc?

 

[lsucet]

I will go with shift kit if lightly modified. performance valve body will be better if you are reinforcing other areas plus a different stall torque converter, etc. anyway is up to you. And, at the end of the day is the same thing. you can do yourself a shift kit or buy the valve body ready to go. not much different.

I have been out of modifications for years and years. no time to side jobs. plus it is easier to fix what it is still original. when something come here all out of wack is better to start putting everything back to oem specs. believe me. life is easier that way .lol

 

[bholler]

I will go with shift kit if lightly modified. performance valve body will be better if you are reinforcing other areas plus a different stall torque converter, etc. anyway is up to you. And, at the end of the day is the same thing. you can do yourself a shift kit or buy the valve body ready to go. not much different.

I have been out of modifications for years and years. no time to side jobs. plus it is easier to fix what it is still original. when something come here all out of wack is better to start putting everything back to oem specs. believe me. life is easier that way .lol

Thanks i just want to firm the shifts up a bit. The motor has a mild cam headers and performance intake so nothing crazy. I am pulling the motor and tranny to regasket everything in a few weeks. It sat for 2 years and wverything leaks lol.

 

[chemie]

Do you wait until cat is in active zone to close the door?
In my experience, even from a cold start, less than 5 minutes ( usually 2-3 minutes) is enough for the fire to get going. Then I close the door. Wait some more to have the cat to be in active zone. As soon as it is on the borderline of active zone, I close the bypass. ( Can you close the bypass a bit earlier than it is in active zone?)
Then I let it run for 15-30 min for charring.

 

[bholler]

Do you wait until cat is in active zone to close the door?
In my experience, even from a cold start, less than 5 minutes ( usually 2-3 minutes) is enough for the fire to get going. Then I close the door. Wait some more to have the cat to be in active zone. As soon as it is on the borderline of active zone, I close the bypass. ( Can you close the bypass a bit earlier than it is in active zone?)
Then I let it run for 15-30 min for charring.

You have to do whatever works for your setup. I only need to crack the door for cold starts. Reloading on a coal bed i can close it right away

 

[lsucet]

Do you wait until cat is in active zone to close the door?
In my experience, even from a cold start, less than 5 minutes ( usually 2-3 minutes) is enough for the fire to get going. Then I close the door. Wait some more to have the cat to be in active zone. As soon as it is on the borderline of active zone, I close the bypass. ( Can you close the bypass a bit earlier than it is in active zone?)
Then I let it run for 15-30 min for charring.

No just when the fire establish and you shut the door and the fire doesn't go out. it means the flue started drafting

 

[tarzan]

14 to 18. I have been burning a long time i know how to dry wood. My experience reflects what i have seen in the chimneys of other bks i have cleaned as well. Again i like the stove and how it heats. But i am not seeing the magic of massive woodsavings or really clean low burns some here claim.

If you were expecting massive wood savings I believe you will be disappointed, but you should go through noticeably less wood.

 

[bholler]

If you were expecting massive wood savings I believe you will be disappointed, but you should go through noticeably less wood.

I have routinely been told to expect wood savings of about 1/4. So far i have used considerably more wood.