2018-19 Blaze King Performance Thread Part 1 (Everything BK)

[Ashful]

I too am in the too much draft camp but didn't realize it was being talked about in this thread so I started anew.

It was the hot topic last year, I don't think it had been discussed in this thread... yet.

so you are using something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NI4JUMY/?tag=hearthamazon-20

Yes, that is the exact model I have on the stove with the 30 foot pipe.

You'd need temperature sensors at the top and bottom of your stack to use that chart. You can't compute average stack gas temperature using just a probe at the bottom.

I was thinking the other way... could we use such a chart to compute our exhaust temp at the cap, if we knew draft and stovepipe temp at the bottom? With some chimneys, cooling above the roof line will be dramatic, and thus the average temperature is not close to (bottom + top) / 2. But in the case of my insulated liner in an all-exterior masonry chimney, I think a chart like this might give a reasonable approximating of exhaust temperature at the top of my stack, based on looking up average stack temp vs. draft, and knowing bottom stack temp.

 

[jetsam]

It was the hot topic last year, I don't think it had been discussed in this thread... yet.


Yes, that is the exact model I have on the stove with the 30 foot pipe.


I was thinking the other way... could we use such a chart to compute our exhaust temp at the cap, if we knew draft and stovepipe temp at the bottom? With some chimneys, cooling above the roof line will be dramatic, and thus the average temperature is not close to (bottom + top) / 2. But in the case of my insulated liner in an all-exterior masonry chimney, I think a chart like this might give a reasonable approximating of exhaust temperature at the top of my stack, based on looking up average stack temp vs. draft, and knowing bottom stack temp.

You could roxul the pipe above the penetration and wrap the roxul in 8" HVAC duct. That would level the numbers out quite a bit and look fine, plus give you less crud on your cap.

 

[Ashful]

You could roxul the pipe above the penetration and wrap the roxul in 8" HVAC duct. That would level the numbers out quite a bit and look fine, plus give you less crud on your cap.

I guess one could do that, if they were in that situation. I don’t get crud on my cap, my flue is already fully insulated, top to bottom. I was speaking about those who seem to have this problem.

 

[chemie]

Is round better than split when it comes to obtain longest burn time in BK? Or worse ? Or doesn’t matter? Nearby forest is filled with dead trees.The driest one I find is either catalpa or red oak branches. Should I leave them as round or split them? They are mostly 4 to 6 in diameter. If I am not mistaken the ones in the pic below are red oak (?). When I take the MC reading from the end of fresh cut rounds and inside of splits there is not much difference. They are all below %20 MC. So I assume taking a reading from the end of freshly cut round is fine?

 

[showrguy]

Is round better than split when it comes to obtain longest burn time in BK? Or worse ? Or doesn’t matter? Nearby forest is filled with dead trees.The driest one I find is either catalpa or red oak branches. Should I leave them as round or split them? They are mostly 4 to 6 in diameter. If I am not mistaken the ones in the pic below are red oak (?). When I take the MC reading from the end of fresh cut rounds and inside of splits there is not much difference. They are all below %20 MC. So I assume taking a reading from the end of freshly cut round is fine?
View attachment 232422

Bigger peices will last longer..

I cut a standing dead red oak a few weeks ago, and it was over 60%, all of it..

 

[jetsam]

Is round better than split when it comes to obtain longest burn time in BK? Or worse ? Or doesn’t matter? Nearby forest is filled with dead trees.The driest one I find is either catalpa or red oak branches. Should I leave them as round or split them? They are mostly 4 to 6 in diameter. If I am not mistaken the ones in the pic below are red oak (?). When I take the MC reading from the end of fresh cut rounds and inside of splits there is not much difference. They are all below %20 MC. So I assume taking a reading from the end of freshly cut round is fine?
View attachment 232422

In general you should always split oak rounds so they don't take 10 years to dry. If you are splitting those and getting 20% on the inside of the fresh split at room temp, congratulations and leave them unsplit.... but don't get used to it, normally you need to split them.

And yes, less surface area = longer burn, even in a BK.

 

[lsucet]

Is round better than split when it comes to obtain longest burn time in BK? Or worse ? Or doesn’t matter? Nearby forest is filled with dead trees.The driest one I find is either catalpa or red oak branches. Should I leave them as round or split them? They are mostly 4 to 6 in diameter. If I am not mistaken the ones in the pic below are red oak (?). When I take the MC reading from the end of fresh cut rounds and inside of splits there is not much difference. They are all below %20 MC. So I assume taking a reading from the end of freshly cut round is fine?
View attachment 232422

Rounds are good for sure. The problem with them is drying time, takes longer. If you are years ahead it will be a good add to the pile. You should anyway split one and take it inside for 24hrs with 48 even better and then check MC. Including if not ready, possibly good for next winter. Still a good deal if it is free.lol

 

[Ashful]

Is round better than split when it comes to obtain longest burn time in BK? Or worse ?

Worse, because round wood just doesn't dry very well. I split everything, even stuff that's only 3" diameter gets halved.

Bigger wood will extend burn times a bit, but is not a requirement in a BK, as much as with other stoves.

 

[chemie]

I’m sure the branches I cut from the fallen trees from previous storms have been there over 10 years. If outside temperature around 60 F do you still need to take the split inside for 24-48 hrs to take the MC?I am thinking 60F to 70 F wouldn’t make much difference on MC reading.
Am I thinking wrong?

 

[Ashful]

I’m sure the branches I cut from the fallen trees from previous storms have been there over 10 years. If outside temperature around 60 F do you still need to take the split inside for 24-48 hrs to take the MC?I am thinking 60F to 70 F wouldn’t make much difference on MC reading.
Am I thinking wrong?

Nah, at 10 years, they're going to be dry either way. They'd still burn better with an exposed face (broken surface / exposed wood fibers), but they'll do okay round, too.

 

[Highbeam]

Worse, because round wood just doesn't dry very well. I split everything, even stuff that's only 3" diameter gets halved.

Bigger wood will extend burn times a bit, but is not a requirement in a BK, as much as with other stoves.

I’m thinking that #s of wood in the firebox is more important than shape of the splits. Of course within reason. At either extreme weird things happen (box of kindling, or one huge chunk).

 

[jetsam]

I’m thinking that #s of wood in the firebox is more important than shape of the splits. Of course within reason. At either extreme weird things happen (box of kindling, or one huge chunk).

If you need data on "box of kindling" let me know. Due to mild weather I've been burning for a month and haven't touched my woodpiles yet.

 

[MissMac]

If you need data on "box of kindling" let me know. Due to mild weather I've been burning for a month and haven't touched my woodpiles yet.

have you found that stuffing your stove full of smaller stuff has led to more smoke going out your chimney - too much food for the cat?

 

[allan5oh]

xplain that

1300 sq ft bungalow 8 foot walls. Stove is main floor in a corner of the living room and house. That side of the house is heavily insulated, sealed, and exposed to the sun.

I think this contributes to burn time length. Compare it to a house with vaulted ceilings and a central stove location with the same stove and stove settings the burn times would be much shorter for the latter. The natural convection is no different than turning the fan up.

Do you want the heat to spread more or, is that a "feature"/good thing?

It is a feature in a few ways. My parents like the living room at 22c but the bedrooms much colder. If the house was larger I would see it being an issue. Also the house isnt occupied 30% of the time. All we care about during those times is keeping the electric heat off and extending the burn times as long as possible. Electric heat comes on around 14c.

 

[Ashful]

1300 sq ft bungalow 8 foot walls. Stove is main floor in a corner of the living room and house. That side of the house is heavily insulated, sealed, and exposed to the sun.

I think this contributes to burn time length. Compare it to a house with vaulted ceilings and a central stove location with the same stove and stove settings the burn times would be much shorter for the latter. The natural convection is no different than turning the fan up.

So, you are supposing that natural convection actually affects operation of the internal thermostat, in a similar way to the blowers on the stove pushing cold air across it? I don’t buy it.

 

[begreen]

I think the lack of natural convection in the house extends the burn time.

1300 sq ft bungalow 8 foot walls. Stove is main floor in a corner of the living room and house. That side of the house is heavily insulated, sealed, and exposed to the sun.

I think this contributes to burn time length. Compare it to a house with vaulted ceilings and a central stove location with the same stove and stove settings the burn times would be much shorter for the latter. The natural convection is no different than turning the fan up.

It is a feature in a few ways. My parents like the living room at 22c but the bedrooms much colder. If the house was larger I would see it being an issue. Also the house isnt occupied 30% of the time. All we care about during those times is keeping the electric heat off and extending the burn times as long as possible. Electric heat comes on around 14c.

OK, I think I see what you are trying to say. If the heat can't convect out of an area, then the heat demand from the stove is going to be less. That is unless the heat loss of the area is great. Take the case you described but now make it a basement with uninsulated walls. About a 3d of the heat the stove produces will radiate out of the walls to the ground surrounding the house. The stove will have to be pushed harder to heat the area and its burn time will be shorter. The same thing would happen if the stove is main floor in a corner of the living room and house. That side of the house has a lot of north facing glass, it's night and cold outside.

 

[Ashful]

OK, I think I see what you are trying to say. If the heat can't convect out of an area, then the heat demand from the stove is going to be less.

If you’re saying that turning down the stove, due to less heat demand will extend burn times, then we’d all say “of course”. But that doesn’t seem to be what he is saying, here. He is implying he gets longer maximum burn times, simply because of the nature of the space he is heating.

 

[begreen]

Yes, I qualified that. It has less to do with natural convection and everything to do with the nature of the space (and time of day).

The same thing would happen if the stove is main floor in a corner of the living room and house. That side of the house has a lot of north facing glass, it's night and cold outside.

 

[allan5oh]

If you’re saying that turning down the stove, due to less heat demand will extend burn times, then we’d all say “of course”. But that doesn’t seem to be what he is saying, here. He is implying he gets longer maximum burn times, simply because of the nature of the space he is heating.

What other factors should be looked at when I am getting 36 hours of cat burn time out of a Princess Ultra as a rookie?

 

[showrguy]

What other factors should be looked at when I am getting 36 hours of cat burn time out of a Princess Ultra as a rookie?

I'd say you're doing just fine !! Rookie

 

[Highbeam]

What other factors should be looked at when I am getting 36 hours of cat burn time out of a Princess Ultra as a rookie?

You say that like it’s a problem. All we know is that your stove is emitting 1/36th of the fuel load as heat every hour. We know that you must have a selected low burn rate, used a very dense fuel load, or both. Many of us strive for long burn times and you’re not the only one to exceed the 30 hour rating published by bk.

The heat load of the space does not determine the burn time of the stove, rather, the operator loads fuel and sets the stove to produce a certain amount of heat which determines the burn time. The operator matches his stove settings to meet his desired outcomes. Sometimes the chosen settings overheat the house and sometimes temperatures fall but the stove has no brain.

 

[chemie]

Nah, at 10 years, they're going to be dry either way. They'd still burn better with an exposed face (broken surface / exposed wood fibers), but they'll do okay round, too.

So even below 20% MC, I should split the rounds of 4 to 6 inches in diameter to obtain better burning?

 

[kennyp2339]

Typical fall day here, 45deg with a misty rain, loaded the stove last night before bed, still going strong, 400deg stove top, 72 def inside, loving the extended burn times with flat heat output,

 

[Highbeam]

View attachment 232477 View attachment 232479
Typical fall day here, 45deg with a misty rain, loaded the stove last night before bed, still going strong, 400deg stove top, 72 def inside, loving the extended burn times with flat heat output,

Looks familiar! My glass has really gotten ambered more than usual with this red cedar burning at low settings. It gasses out pretty fast so I get a little too much heat at the beginning with the stat closed but after the initial offgassing event my install needs a little higher stat setting to stay active. Just typical shoulder season stuff plus oily wood.

 

[kennyp2339]

Looks familiar! My glass has really gotten ambered more than usual with this red cedar burning at low settings. It gasses out pretty fast so I get a little too much heat at the beginning with the stat closed but after the initial offgassing event my install needs a little higher stat setting to stay active. Just typical shoulder season stuff plus oily wood.

Yup, I haven't manually cleaned my glass in 2 years, once it gets cold it will just burn off, the nice thing about burning low is seeing the build up on the glass fairly uniform from one side to the other, top to bottom, it tells me that my door and stove glass seals are still good.