lsucet
Minister of Fire
is seeing the build up on the glass fairly uniform from one side to the other, top to bottom
It is not build up, it is tinted. that what i said when somebody ask.
is seeing the build up on the glass fairly uniform from one side to the other, top to bottom
Yup, I haven't manually cleaned my glass in 2 years, once it gets cold it will just burn off, the nice thing about burning low is seeing the build up on the glass fairly uniform from one side to the other, top to bottom, it tells me that my door and stove glass seals are still good.
I also do that a few times during the season, I to experience some spots that make it feel like if I pull any harder the dollar is going to rip, other spots it pulls out with some decent resistance, I guess there's nothing to worry about until the dollar can be easily pulled through.I just did the dollar bill check on my door over the weekend and I still don’t feel like I know how tightly the bill should be held. It was never easy to remove but some places were harder than others.
Over 26 hrs with around 3/4 load. Look all what is left. I do love this things. Rake to the front closed door and bypass and flames popped again.
I still hanging in thereLook at that muscle-man reflection is the third picture!
26h., that is impressive. I average 18h on a load of hemlock (3/4 full). The reloads are throwing me off however. 12 on 12 would be logical or 24 on 24.
It’s okay to load fresh fuel at 12 hours on top of 1/3 full firebox. I need to do that when temps fall into the single digits. Just beware that smoke spillage through the loading door is very likely without preventive measures.
I am heating an enormous space, by the standards of heating with wood stoves, and I'm hitting those burn times with a smaller stove. I don't think it's your small rooms that are getting you there!What other factors should be looked at when I am getting 36 hours of cat burn time out of a Princess Ultra as a rookie?
Okay, after a 2-week observation period, I'm ready to report flue temps. All are given as probe in 30 feet of 6 inch double wall. Temps on outside of single wall seem to hold almost exactly half these numbers.Yeah at 22 hours in that doesnt surprise or concern me at all.
I assume those are internal temps right.Okay, after a 2-week observation period, I'm ready to report flue temps. All are given as probe in 30 feet of 6 inch double wall. Temps on outside of single wall seem to hold almost exactly half these numbers.
Peak temperature after 30 minutes on high, during start-up phase: 900F
15 minutes after turning down: 400F
30 minutes after turning down: 350F
From 1 hour to 12 hours: 300F
@ 22 hours: 175F
We've been having warm days, so I haven't (intentionally) had any fires over 24 hours yet this year. I'm doing short loads, 40% - 80% of stove capacity. How much I fill the stove doesn't seem to affect the flue temps, other than falling off quicker after 12 hours.
I assume those are internal temps right.
All are given as probe in 30 feet of 6 inch double wall
Each setting will be different for each individual, the reason is micro climate, draft strength, type of wood being consumed and moisture content.Ashful how low are you turning it down. I’m new to this but my probe temp when running low is definitely cooler than yours.
Yes but if you arent keeping temps above 212 at the top of the chimney you are going to have problems. And at 300 internal it is probably pretty close to that.Each setting will be different for each individual, the reason is micro climate, draft strength, type of wood being consumed and moisture content.
Yes but if you arent keeping temps above 212 at the top of the chimney you are going to have problems. And at 300 internal it is probably pretty close to that.
I agree with that for the first three stages of fire, incipient, growth, and fully developed, but for the decay stage pretty much all the volatiles are burnt off.Yes but if you arent keeping temps above 212 at the top of the chimney you are going to have problems. And at 300 internal it is probably pretty close to that.
Yes of course it can drop in the last stageI agree with that for the first three stages of fire, incipient, growth, and fully developed, but for the decay stage pretty much all the volatiles are burnt off.
The problem with that is you can have the cat active but still not have enough temperature to prevent condensation at the to of the chimney. That will lead to creosote buildup (which i am seeing much more of from the princess than i did from the regency).One more time it comes down to the way of how it works. As long the cat stays on the active zone that all what matters.AT LEAST TO ME. When monitoring flue temp is good for many reasons, the manufactures provided cat probe not flue probe. i use them but i think at some point it is just there. All what i care is what is the status of the cat. if i go for how low the flue temp is, i am not using the full capability of the stove to run real low when needed. Quality of the wood ( about being seasoned, not species) and a good char of the wood, is more important than flue temp. Is 500df vs 1100df. if the cat is active i shut door, bypass regardless what is the flue temp. If fire is going on in there to the point of the cat gets active, for me it means there is draft.
And yes moisture content is the most important thing. But different species burn differently so species absolutly matters. Soft woods in general off gas faster which changes how the stove acts.One more time it comes down to the way of how it works. As long the cat stays on the active zone that all what matters.AT LEAST TO ME. When monitoring flue temp is good for many reasons, the manufactures provided cat probe not flue probe. i use them but i think at some point it is just there. All what i care is what is the status of the cat. if i go for how low the flue temp is, i am not using the full capability of the stove to run real low when needed. Quality of the wood ( about being seasoned, not species) and a good char of the wood, is more important than flue temp. Is 500df vs 1100df. if the cat is active i shut door, bypass regardless what is the flue temp. If fire is going on in there to the point of the cat gets active, for me it means there is draft.
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