2018-19 Blaze King Performance Thread Part 1 (Everything BK)

[kennyp2339]

During this char period, full throttle after cat engagement, are you folks pegging our your cat meters? If you have flue temp gauges are you getting high temperatures there too? I know the thermostat is supposed to protect everything from getting too hot but do you notice that you’re almost too hot during the char?

When my cat was brand new it would go to 5 o'clock, now that it has settled I just wait for positive cat needle movement, once im satisfied with that then I start closing the t-stat down.

 

[SuperJ]

I personally never wait for the temperature to climb into the active zone from a cold start, I'm not even sure it would get that high if I tried. (maybe it needs an adjustment). I just leave the bypass open until the flue gas probe reads over 400degF, and the flames are very active in the firebox. If the flames are licking at the heat shield, then the cat always takes off right away regardless of what the thermometer says. If your firebox is full of flames it's hot enough to fire up the cat, no matter what the gauge says.

Once the cat is engaged the stove cruises with the flue gas temp at a pretty steady 380-400deg on low, and increases proportionally to the throttle up to 800-900 on high.

 

[Highbeam]

I suppose it’s similar to letting your car idle for 30 minutes until the computer goes into closed loop mode and is less polluting. Doesn’t seem like many of us run full throttle for 30 minutes after cat engagement. I sure don’t.

 

[lsucet]

I always shoot for heat up the cat first. That is my goal with the way that I start from cold. Top/down right at front under the shield. Sometimes the way the fire develop heats up the chimney first but I can say 90% of the time i am successful bringing the cat to temp first with low flue temp still.

 

[Rickb]

I personally never wait for the temperature to climb into the active zone from a cold start, I'm not even sure it would get that high if I tried. (maybe it needs an adjustment). I just leave the bypass open until the flue gas probe reads over 400degF, and the flames are very active in the firebox. If the flames are licking at the heat shield, then the cat always takes off right away regardless of what the thermometer says. If your firebox is full of flames it's hot enough to fire up the cat, no matter what the gauge says.

Once the cat is engaged the stove cruises with the flue gas temp at a pretty steady 380-400deg on low, and increases proportionally to the throttle up to 800-900 on high.

I always let it heat up till active.........

I wonder if BKVP could clarify if it would be ok to switch it over once the flue gas it up to temp. I would be very interested in that.

 

[Tar12]

I suppose it’s similar to letting your car idle for 30 minutes until the computer goes into closed loop mode and is less polluting. Doesn’t seem like many of us run full throttle for 30 minutes after cat engagement. I sure don’t.

I started off as a newbie doing this but quickly realized it was unnecessary with properly seasoned wood...my chimney cleanings and lack of serious build up says what I am doing works.

 

[chemie]

I always let it heat up till active.........

I wonder if BKVP could clarify if it would be ok to switch it over once the flue gas it up to temp. I would be very interested in that.

I wouldn’t know what my flue temperature or stove temperature since I am using an insert. So I appreciate if explanation of best charring way does also take into account of AF25 inserts, too.

 

[lsucet]

I wouldn’t know what my flue temperature or stove temperature since I am using an insert. So I appreciate if explanation of best charring way does also take into account of AF25 inserts, too.

I start burning last year my second setup without a flue probe. Cause experience with the other I went for how I see the fire doing in there plus the cat probe. I know that at least I have the experience with the other and that can make the differences. This winter I installed a flue probe on my second setup also and I can say I was right on the money eyeballing before.

 

[Highbeam]

I wouldn’t know what my flue temperature or stove temperature since I am using an insert. So I appreciate if explanation of best charring way does also take into account of AF25 inserts, too.

So you have no way to monitor any temperatures other than the cat meter which on your stove is an “idiot light” on or off switch. I can’t see how you will be able to do anything but follow the manual and use your gut. It’s like flying a plane without instruments. We’re talking about cruising at 25000 or 30000 feet but you can never know your altitude without gauges.

 

[Tumpin' Wood]

Thank you Kenny. Insulation and moulding will be going up tomorrow.

 

[chemie]

So you have no way to monitor any temperatures other than the cat meter which on your stove is an “idiot light” on or off switch. I can’t see how you will be able to do anything but follow the manual and use your gut. It’s like flying a plane without instruments. We’re talking about cruising at 25000 or 30000 feet but you can never know your altitude without gauges.

Yep, that’s I’ve been trying to do. I had asked before, what would I need with an insert, thermometer etc. I think I was just told get an ash bin. I hope “idiot light” is good enough.

 

[jetsam]

Yep, that’s I’ve been trying to do. I had asked before, what would I need with an insert, thermometer etc. I think I was just told get an ash bin. I hope “idiot light” is good enough.

You don't need to get any fancier than idiot light. When the cat is warm enough to light off, flip the lever. No need for more measurements unless you just like measurements. (Which, admittedly, I DO, but....)

 

[Highbeam]

Yep, that’s I’ve been trying to do. I had asked before, what would I need with an insert, thermometer etc. I think I was just told get an ash bin. I hope “idiot light” is good enough.

Idiot light is not a bad thing. It’s what most of us have to operate our automobiles. Manufacturers tend to trend away from providing the user as much information in order to simplify operations.

You seem to want more information. I don’t blame you.

 

[lsucet]

I don't think that char the wood more or less is that much related to information based on probe, etc. BK, if, working correctly will not overfire and that will help you to experiment with the charring deal. Just go for how you see the fire. You will get the hang of it in no time.

 

[kf6hap]

I do run mine wide open for 15 minutes at reload. No problems at all with operation or creosote. BK season 3. Good dry wood seems to do the trick.

 

[jetsam]

When the stove is burning, my reload takes about 20 seconds. Bypass, thermostat up, door open, wood in, door closed, bypass off, thermostat re-set.

I used to give the cat a couple minutes to help with thermal shock, but I have steel this year!

 

[chemie]

When you reload, is your cat always active? The burn times being mentioned by the users is considering the cat is still in active zone or inactive but still there is enough coal left?

 

[kf6hap]

First firing of the year. 60s outside. Never would have fired up any of my older stoves with it this warm outside. Running on the EPA hole, damper clacked shut.

Hey BKVP:
How about a deeper ash drawer so I can make ferments like kraut, kefir and yogurt in quart jars?

 

[SuperJ]

I should clarify, Even though I close the bypass early and get onto the cat asap. I still run on high after closing, for 15 to 30 minutes to dry everything out before I go to my cruising setting. The Ashford has enough heavy iron in it to buffer heat output, that the room won't overheat with less than 30 min on high .

 

[kf6hap]

The Ashford has enough heavy iron in it to buffer heat output, that the room won't overheat with less than 30 min on high .

That is the beauty of the 500 pounds of iron and steel.

 

[jetsam]

When you reload, is your cat always active? The burn times being mentioned by the users is considering the cat is still in active zone or inactive but still there is enough coal left?

Yep. This time of year, the stove runs on minimum and I feed it every 12 hours, when it's about half empty. Once a week I let it run down to coals so I can scoop some ash.

During last year's "polar vortex" I was doing 3 loads a day-to-day a 12 hour lowish burn while I was at work, a hot 4 hour load when I got home, and a medium 8 hour burn overnight.

If you want to burn 24/7, you'll get a feel for it pretty quickly. The first year, the fire will burn out a bunch of times while you're figuring it out. After you get a handle on it, you really only need to let it get down to coals for ash removal and chimney sweeping.

 

[jetsam]

Hey BKVP:
How about a deeper ash drawer so I can make ferments like kraut, kefir and yogurt in quart jars?

I asked him for a BK that made ice cream last year and didn't get it, so don't hold your breath for the Yogurt Stove.

 

[MissMac]

Well i stretched a load of jack pine out for 19.5 hours yesterday - personal best. It could have kept going probably for another couple of hours, but I had to crank it up and reload the stove before work. Quite pleased that i'm finding the longer burn time sweet spot on the stove though.

 

[black smoke signals]

How is your stove burning when the Wind picks up Miss Mac?

 

[MissMac]

How is your stove burning when the Wind picks up Miss Mac?

Haven't noticed any issues related to wind with my set-up. One thing i've noticed is that on morning reloads when there's a surface inversion, I can get some smoke spillage when i open the loading door, even after i've warmed up the chimney. But this is pretty explainable - lack of lift in the atmosphere = hard for a column to pull out my chimney. So to solve it, i've just made sure that i crack the door just enough to pile the coles and get a little flaming going before i fully open it for reload. Seems to do the trick.

If you're inquiring because of my issues last year - i still have the char smell issue, but have decided to ignore it. i'm fairly certain the smell bleeds through the door gasket rope when dialed down.