2018-19 Blaze King Performance Thread Part 1 (Everything BK)

[bholler]

I could always fully control my nc30 by closing the intake. The nc30 in my shop is good like that. I like to run it hot though so I’ve never actually fully snuffed a load of fuel.

I don’t know what other folks’ experience is. Maybe you should ask them if you don’t know.

I could always fully control my nc30 by closing the intake. The nc30 in my shop is good like that. I like to run it hot though so I’ve never actually fully snuffed a load of fuel.

I don’t know what other folks’ experience is. Maybe you should ask them if you don’t know.

So you can or cant snuff it out?

You do remember complaining about the unrestricted air to the dog house dont you? And saying all non cats were leaky and uncontrollable as well.

 

[Highbeam]

I propose that instead of the usual, we have them do some pudding wrestling this year.

Turns out that you can’t “ignore” staff. We’re good buds, it’s fine.

 

[Highbeam]

So you can or cant snuff it out?

You do remember complaining about the unrestricted air to the dog house dont you? And saying all non cats were leaky and uncontrollable as well.

I think you have me confused with someone else. That doghouse air is unrestricted on my nc30 and most l noncats certainly do have engineered uncontrolled air inlets which I suppose you could call leaky.

They’re certainly controllable though. Within the range that they are designed to be controlled.

Not sure what this interrogation has to do with the thread though.

 

[bholler]

I think you have me confused with someone else. That doghouse air is unrestricted on my nc30 and most l noncats certainly do have engineered uncontrolled air inlets which I suppose you could call leaky.

They’re certainly controllable though. Within the range that they are designed to be controlled.

Not sure what this interrogation has to do with the thread though.

I am just pointing out that you are contradicting your earlier comments.

So how do you snuff out a stove that has an unrestricted inlet to the doghouse and built in leaks?

And by the way even blazekings have built in leaks

 

[Highbeam]

I am just pointing out that you are contradicting your earlier comments.

So how do you snuff out a stove that has an unrestricted inlet to the doghouse and built in leaks?

And by the way even blazekings have built in leaks

I think you’ve confused me with someone else or didn’t correctly comprehend my statements. I really enjoy my nc30. It’s been a great stove.

 

[ratsrepus]

score highbeam 1 beholler2. top the 9th 2 out

 

[greg66]

What? I can shut it down and snuff it out. That "entry level" noncat has great control and burns clean.

we want a snuff film of you killing your fire!

 

[lsucet]

we want a snuff film of you killing your fire!

@Highbeam do it on your BK. He didn't specify on which stove.

 

[Highbeam]

@Highbeam do it on your BK. He didn't specify on which stove.

Or a candle! I’m not a video guy but both stoves snuff pretty well when the intakes are closed. Just the noncat spews horrible amounts of smoke since the temperature falls below the clean burning sweet spot.

Both stoves are cold right now.

 

[bholler]

The only air regulated on an NC30 is the airwash air admitted above the door. It is only somewhat regulated since the air control slider can't be completely closed. There are three other holes in the stove shell that feed full throttle, uncontrolled, combustion air into the firebox. One hole to the secondary system and two holes to the doghouse.

It is for this reason that an OAK on the NC30 is worthless.

It's a fine system that has very low emissions (lower than my cat stove!) for a very large 3.5 cubic foot firebox. You just can't run clean and cool. Hot and bothered is how she runs!

So you said this but now you can magically shut off all that uncontrolled air?

 

[jetsam]

score highbeam 1 beholler2. top the 9th 2 out

I am not scoring, I am just waiting for the pudding to come out.

 

[SD Golden]

Finally got my Blaze King Sicorro 30 today and was reading the book that calls for lighting the fire with kindling, adding small logs, then adding large logs. Is there anyone that fills the fire box from the start and lets it go? Is there a reason I would need to build the fire in stages instead of filling it up and letting it burn?

 

[Highbeam]

So you said this but now you can magically shut off all that uncontrolled air?

Uh no. It’s uncontrolled, you can’t shut it off. I shouldn’t have to explain this to you. Do your own research and hopefully you will be able to comprehend.

That old quote is still perfectly valid. You must be confused. Maybe you are thinking I am someone else?

 

[Highbeam]

I am not scoring, I am just waiting for the pudding to come out.

Pudding is bueno. All this time, bholler was picking on me because he thought I was someone else!

 

[begreen]

Finally got my Blaze King Sicorro 30 today and was reading the book that calls for lighting the fire with kindling, adding small logs, then adding large logs. Is there anyone that fills the fire box from the start and lets it go? Is there a reason I would need to build the fire in stages instead of filling it up and letting it burn?

Try lighting it with a top down burn if loading full.

 

[Highbeam]

Finally got my Blaze King Sicorro 30 today and was reading the book that calls for lighting the fire with kindling, adding small logs, then adding large logs. Is there anyone that fills the fire box from the start and lets it go? Is there a reason I would need to build the fire in stages instead of filling it up and letting it burn?

I always fill it up and let it burn. I’d venture to say it is very rare that any of us burn a kindling fire before loading firewood. Some folks use the “ top down method” some use fancy super cedar fire starters. I build the entire fire before ignition.

Does anybody do the kindling fire thing? This is applicable to cold starts.

 

[bholler]

Uh no. It’s uncontrolled, you can’t shut it off. I shouldn’t have to explain this to you. Do your own research and hopefully you will be able to comprehend.

That old quote is still perfectly valid. You must be confused. Maybe you are thinking I am someone else?

I am not saying the quote isnt true because i dont know if it is or not. I am saying that quote and the claims you just made about being able to snuff it out cant possibly both be true.

 

[bholler]

I always fill it up and let it burn. I’d venture to say it is very rare that any of us burn a kindling fire before loading firewood. Some folks use the “ top down method” some use fancy super cedar fire starters. I build the entire fire before ignition.

Does anybody do the kindling fire thing? This is applicable to cold starts.

I find i need a fair amount of kindling with the princess. But i dont do a kindling fire just load it up with kindling on the bottom and light it.

 

[lsucet]

Finally got my Blaze King Sicorro 30 today and was reading the book that calls for lighting the fire with kindling, adding small logs, then adding large logs. Is there anyone that fills the fire box from the start and lets it go? Is there a reason I would need to build the fire in stages instead of filling it up and letting it burn?

Top/down works good for me every time. If using super cedar, stick some small pieces also between the rest of the load. It will light up quick.

 

[tarzan]

Finally got my Blaze King Sicorro 30 today and was reading the book that calls for lighting the fire with kindling, adding small logs, then adding large logs. Is there anyone that fills the fire box from the start and lets it go? Is there a reason I would need to build the fire in stages instead of filling it up and letting it burn?

The books explanation is the ol’ standard fire building 101. It works but I usually load up and start top down. The reason I like top down is because it puts an emphasis on heating the flue, which is a plus in milder weather, when most cold starts happen, for establishing draft to get things rocking quicker.

I’ve also used kindling at times with a full load of wood around it, as well as some variation of the owners manuals suggestion. I suppose you could say I like the top down method best, but it really doesn’t amount to a hill of beans! Mixing in some smallish pieces, dry wood, and leaving the loading door open until you get the fire established is key imo no matter which method you use.

 

[jetsam]

Mixing in some smallish pieces, dry wood, and leaving the loading door open until you get the fire established is key imo no matter which method you use.

Or burn dry pine. It just about lights itself.

 

[moresnow]

We light full loads. Full size splits. Have not P_zzed with kindling for a long time. No need. Either a small chunk of S.C. jammed in towards the bottom or 2 pages from our local liberal rag rolled up and tucked in towards the bottom. I've not really found the top down lighting method to be of any benefit on my setup.
The paper method is. Um. Very satisfying

 

[Ashful]

Since I’m burning almost 100% oak the last few years, I have found a few lumber scraps, even a single 18” piece of 2x4 split in half, is still very helpful in getting from cold start to active cat in an acceptable timeframe. Yes, I can and have done it many times with just a super cedar under a full load of oak, but it takes longer than I would like. A few pieces of dry lumber really get it up to temperature so much faster, and ultimately (I presume) reduce the amount of creo I’m depositing in the chimney during bypass.

When I have some ash, maple, or walnut mixed in the load, the need for dry lumber as kindling is reduced. Oak is just slower to light than other woods, in my experience.

 

[Niko]

What a huge difference a brand new cat makes! After questioning the installation of fire cat steel cat in my King, first time ever changing the cat is was simple as eating a piece of baklava. Now taking the original cat out after 5 years was simple and the tabs do help. The new cat does not have tabs but i guess pushing it out from the back would be the best for now.. I got 2 days using it so i hope it lasts at least 2-3 years. I wont stretch the cat longevity anymore. I was wasting fuel leaving the thermometer up. Now once i see my flu pipe hit 400 i close my bypass and boom instance cat take off. I know that wont last forever but for now i can enjoy being spoiled lol.

I can splurge 300 bucks every 2-3 years..

 

[chemie]

Finally got my Blaze King Sicorro 30 today and was reading the book that calls for lighting the fire with kindling, adding small logs, then adding large logs. Is there anyone that fills the fire box from the start and lets it go? Is there a reason I would need to build the fire in stages instead of filling it up and letting it burn?

I did have the same question. Based on my -3 weeks -experience, you can do both. If I want to bring up temperature of the house real quick, I use about an inch thick dimensional oak lumbers as kindling for the initial load. It brings up the cat in active zone fast and leaves nice coals for the main load. And if I am not mistaken, having initial load with kindling, extends the burn time of main load.But I also did start with full load by using some kindling and piece of papers from old student papers without need of using a fire-starter like duraflame or cedar. Using a fire-starter makes it easier though. But I’m very happy how easy to start a fire in BK as compared to in a fireplace ( I know not comparable).
For the record, for the shoulder reason, I mostly use pine, catalpa, and some oak.