2017-18 Blaze King Performance Thread (Everything BK)

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I’m arguing it’s not a failure point, at least for me. Mine stay so clean that my chimney guy doesn’t even have to go up on the roof to clean it, since I installed the Ashfords. I’m doing about 6 cords per year on the one stove burning 12-hour batches, and 3 cords on the other burning 24-hour batches.

Now as to why you would want one? I had a squirrel get into my Jotul within three months of opening that chimney. It caused me $650 in parts to repair the damage he had done, plus a month of lost time burning while I waited for Jotul to ship the parts, plus a full day of tearing down and rebuilding that stove. I’d give almost anything to avoid that hassle again, and the screens have caused me zero trouble.

When I say “screen”, I’m using 5/8” mesh expanded metal, not hardware cloth or window screen. If you’re clogging that, you must be burning very, very dirty!

Yes, Duravent makes both options. They need to offer options to those who burn dirty stoves, but I don’t see why anyone running a BK would need to resort to that, unless they’re in a place so cold they’re dealing with ice clogging the cap.

Now, knowing you put a lot of effort into burning clean, what’s the difference? Hardwood vs. softwood? King vs. Ashford? I really want to know!

Well you no longer have the Jotuls so there is no chance of a 650$ squirrel bill. Even without screens, the OEM duravent cap has bars that wouldn't allow a squirrel to enter. Or a seagull for that matter.

Since permanently eliminating the clogged screen problem by removing the screen, I don't have a screen problem so I won't be able to help you with an analysis of why some screens clog and some don't while using BK products.

If you have a recurring animal problem or a local code requirement then the screen may be necessary along with the possibility/likelihood of increased maintenance. If no recurring animal problem or local code requirement then having no screen guarantees that you won't have to clean your screen in a snowstorm, at night, and fall off the roof onto your head.
 
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New cat time, I guess the different coloring across it is part of the process they use? I don't remember what my last one looked like when it was new......

That's weird. The new ceramic cats that I've seen were much more consistently colored. Was that from firecatcombustors?
 
That's weird. The new ceramic cats that I've seen were much more consistently colored. Was that from firecatcombustors?

I’m hoping BKVP sees that photo, and chimes in. I wouldn’t want to install that combustor, until I hear some expert opinion on why it looks the way it does. I suspect that one cell group to the left is missing it’s plating, but that’s a very “non-expert” opinion, from me.
 
Thanks again for the thoughtful replies.

@webby3650 , I've attached the relevant part of the manual for your perusal...We'll have plenty of clearance behind the stove, so I think the only issue will be if it passes inspection without the blower. I'd rather have a peltier fan because they work by magic (and are quiet), albiet less powerful.

[Hearth.com] 2017-18 Blaze King Performance Thread (Everything BK)


@Poindexter , thanks for the info on EMC. I get 8% in July for our area (50deg dewpoint, 80deg average temp = 36%RH, or about 8% EMC). I'll burn big splits and see how it runs; will report back. I don't have a moisture meter, but regularly get 20MOhms with my multimeter on a freshly split surface with the probes spaced along the grain 1.25" apart.

@Heftiger , I'm in Quincy. Good to know you like the Ashford!

@begreen , the flue will be one straight shot, a few feet from the peak of the roof.
 
Thanks again for the thoughtful replies.

@webby3650 , I've attached the relevant part of the manual for your perusal...We'll have plenty of clearance behind the stove, so I think the only issue will be if it passes inspection without the blower. I'd rather have a peltier fan because they work by magic (and are quiet), albiet less powerful.

View attachment 201807

@Poindexter , thanks for the info on EMC. I get 8% in July for our area (50deg dewpoint, 80deg average temp = 36%RH, or about 8% EMC). I'll burn big splits and see how it runs; will report back. I don't have a moisture meter, but regularly get 20MOhms with my multimeter on a freshly split surface with the probes spaced along the grain 1.25" apart.

@Heftiger , I'm in Quincy. Good to know you like the Ashford!

@begreen , the flue will be one straight shot, a few feet from the peak of the roof.

Hey! I’m in Susanville.


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I had a bird (I think) end up in my brand new Ashford 30 this weekend when I was away. My wife (and dog) noticed it Sat. and Sun. but it hasn't made any noise since then. The bypass was closed so whatever it was couldn't drop down into the firebox and is likely stuck in the cat chamber. I'm trying to figure out what I should do.
  1. Let er rip, and assume whatever was in there is either out now, or will get incinerated
  2. Disconnect the stove pipe and lift to to try and get the animal out the top of the cat chamber?
  3. Maybe partly open the bypass and hope if it's still alive that it can climb over the bypass damper and end up in the firebox where I can get it out.
  4. Something else?
I think I'm going to try and remember to open the bypass on my stove when it's not in use to avoid trapping animals in the cat chamber.
A few years I had same experience. Thought I better just peek. Slid up the slip joint and there sat a beautiful owl...his head spinning just like Linda B. in The Exorcist. So glad I checked!
 
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New cat time, I guess the different coloring across it is part of the process they use? I don't remember what my last one looked like when it was new......
That is a perfectly great combustor. The color patterns mean little to nothing. We purchase the cell blocks, add hankering and can them. More often than not, the colors are more consistent. The lighter block could be from a different production run. The fit looks perfect. Install and run with confidence.
 
I will check if the little nut that holds the coil s not loose causing the coil to not read accurate. I think we had similar situation with other member here and the fix was to tight the nut.
If is not the right one I am sure BKVP will assist you.

Thanks. I checked the little nut, and it is not loose.
 
That is a perfectly great combustor. The color patterns mean little to nothing. We purchase the cell blocks, add hankering and can them. More often than not, the colors are more consistent. The lighter block could be from a different production run. The fit looks perfect. Install and run with confidence.

Sounds good to me
 
I'd rather have a peltier fan because they work by magic (and are quiet), albiet less powerful.

You can have both! Looks like you are stuck installing fans which I would recommend anyway but they can be shut off and you can run the peltier fan instead or even both at the same time. There is an off switch on the fans or you can leave them unplugged. In this application, the fan kit is serving as a rear heat shield.
 
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I would highly recommend the fan kit in the Ashford anyways. During the very cold months we can’t get enough heat from our Ashford without the fan.


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To those of you that help others...from around the globe, here is an update.

Blaze King 30's are now legal to sell in New Zealand. New Zealand has two test methods and if you wish to sell in Canterbury Region (Christchurch) or Nelson, both in the South Island, you must pass the ULB Method, which involves cord wood testing with their pine.

I post this update because from time to time this inquiry has been asked here. Approvals for sale in New Zealand are not (unfortunately) extended to the great land of Aussie's! Someday!

Now a performance observation. I once flew Pasco WA to Seattle, to LAX, to Sydney to Auckland. When we left the house I loaded up a big load of walnut (single huge piece), a couple of large pieces of silver maple and four NEILS on top. When I called home to advise our son we arrived safe...he told me the combustor was still was active and would be for many more hours! Total flight/layovers etc...34 hours.

BKVP
 
@Highbeam and @Heftiger , you make a good point! I'll have it, but don't need to run it unless I need it!
@Heftiger -- Hi neighbor! You're definitely drier in Susanville than we are, so I'm reassured that I won't have any problems with the wood getting too dry.
My wife likes the look of the Ashford, so we're golden!
 
Yes, the Ashford is a good looking stove. I cut, split, stack and burn the same wood in the fall in Nevada City at the 2,600 foot level. In the summer the humidity goes below 25% a lot and last summer was a scorcher. Pine, oak & madrone.
 
Too dry + too small is a problem. Some of the commercial compressed sawdust logs are well below 10%.

I never had a too dry problem.
 
Would an outside air kit bringing outside air close to the air intake of the stove be a good idea? I understand that the square footage of all the walls is plenty to bring in the air the woodstove needs. My problem is that with all the air going into the chimney, I think most of it is coming in from the basement (urethane is only on the basement exterior walls and new windows whole house). Does the chimney effect created by the wood stove makes the basement colder?should I make a hole behind the stove outside wall and put a piece of pipe in it?
 
There have been two or three (Calentarse, Parallax, etc.) who have had the same issue, and I believe they all had Ashford 30’s. Never heard about this smoke smell from Princesses or Kings, unless it was draft / back-puffing issues.

The others have pretty much concluded it’s the thick gasket. I am not sure if anyone from BK has endorsed this idea, but it’s one I’ve seen the others post. They believe the thick gasket is just soaking up enough creosote, possibly exacerbated by wet wood (but not necessarily so), that it eventually just smells.

There is no way a stove that has good draft is going to leak smoke, unless it is back-puffing. But if the innards of your firebox look anything like mine, a glazed creosote mess after a slow burn, one might think this gasket idea plausible.
Hi ashful,how are you,I am looking for a warming shelf for my old firelight 12,ideas? Bought the last one from stoveworks last year need one more,thanks
 
Would an outside air kit bringing outside air close to the air intake of the stove be a good idea? I understand that the square footage of all the walls is plenty to bring in the air the woodstove needs. My problem is that with all the air going into the chimney, I think most of it is coming in from the basement (urethane is only on the basement exterior walls and new windows whole house). Does the chimney effect created by the wood stove makes the basement colder?should I make a hole behind the stove outside wall and put a piece of pipe in it?

Yes. You can purchase the Outside Air Kit that will attach to the stove intake.
Before we added an OAK we noticed a considerable draft that made the house feel cold unless you were close enough to the stove to feel the radiant heat.


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If your outside air is coming from a basement area, ultimately that air is made up from leaks so yes, it can make the basement colder. If plumbed to the outside that goes away. Screen it with 1/2" hardware cloth as it might make a very nice home for critters. Don't use fly screen as it is too restrictive and will plug up with fuzz.
 
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Hi ashful,how are you,I am looking for a warming shelf for my old firelight 12,ideas? Bought the last one from stoveworks last year need one more,thanks

Set up a saved search on eBay, which will email you whenever one is listed. They show up at least once or thrice per year.
 
Yes. You can purchase the Outside Air Kit that will attach to the stove intake.
Before we added an OAK we noticed a considerable draft that made the house feel cold unless you were close enough to the stove to feel the radiant heat.


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Ok thank you for the info. What are the drawbacks of an oak? Do you have cold air coming in when the stove is not in use and do you see condensation on the pipe?
 
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