2017-18 Blaze King Performance Thread (Everything BK)

[Marshy]

Or get the stove with an ash pan, pull plug and push ah into hole, reinsert plug and dump. No ash plume lol.

 

[webby3650]

I've done it with direct sunlight streaming in an otherwise dark room. You can see every particle in the air. If you use a traditional bucket, you are going to get an ash plume. Here's the method that's been working for me for over 2 decades without ANY ash entering the living space.

You need a metal baking pan that is deep enough to be wedged under the bottom knife edge (the part that presses into the door gasket when the door closes on it) and wide enough to match the firebox opening. If the pan is the right depth for your stove it will be securely locked in place under it's own weight and tilt at a slight angle back towards the firebox.

Before you begin, make sure the flue has a positive draft. If it's warm in the house and cold outside it probably will but it never hurts to crack a window before you begin.

Wedge the wide rectangular pan in place under the knife edge. Take a scoop of ash and pull the loaded shovel back and place it flat in the bottom of the baking pan. Lift the shovel handle so the ashes want to start sliding and simultaneously draw the handle backwards neatly sliding the ashes onto the bottom of the pan without any vertical drop and no ash plume. If you don't do it smoothly you will see a little dust but watch as it is "magically" drawn back into the firebox and up the flue. Repeat until you have removed enough ash. Carry the baking pan outside without jostling it.

This method keeps the house dust free. I can't count on both hands the number of people that told me they converted from wood heat to propane because wood heat was too "dusty". Little did they know it was all because of un-refined ash removal technique. I agree there is an art to it. If a vacuum works for you, more power to you. I want to achieve the same thing without the additional equipment and hassle.

That’s the same process that should be executed when using a bucket. Everyone does not have enough draft to suck that non existent plume up the flue... especially when it’s still hot outside. For most, it would become airborne within the home. Not cool.

I’m doing this for a living, I have a vacuum in the house already, and can’t take any chances.

 

[WoodyIsGoody]

That’s the same process that should be executed when using a bucket. Everyone does not have enough draft to suck that non existent plume up the flue... especially when it’s still hot outside. For most, it would become airborne within the home. Not cool.

Sigh....

A bucket is too deep to properly use this technique. I don't know where these "low draft" stoves are that you speak of. I've used it on my last four stoves with perfect success. The beauty of the pan flush with the bottom of the door opening is the draft doesn't have to be very strong. A bucket would not work this way, even if you did devise a way to secure it there.

Don't try this with a bucket!

But since you do this for a living, you already know everything! I don't do this for a living, I'm just passing on a useful technique for other wood-burners like me.

 

[webby3650]

Sigh....

A bucket is too deep to properly use this technique. I don't know where these "low draft" stoves are that you speak of. I've used it on my last four stoves with perfect success. The beauty of the pan flush with the bottom of the door opening is the draft doesn't have to be very strong. A bucket would not.

Don't try this with a bucket!

But since you do this for a living, you already know everything! I don't do this for a living, I'm just passing on a useful technique for other wood-burners like me.

I’m always learning. Yes, everyone use your wife’s cookie sheet for all your ash cleaning needs.
You always find a way to turn things negative.

 

[WoodyIsGoody]

I’m always learning. Yes, everyone use your wife’s cookie sheet for all your ash cleaning needs.
You always find a way to turn things negative.

Nothing negative there, just trying to help you understand that a bucket is not involved in my method.

Neither is a cookie sheet. I use a dedicated pan.

But I think I've described it sufficiently for most so I won't explain it further for you.

 

[webby3650]

Nothing negative there, just trying to help you understand that a bucket is not involved in my method.

Neither is a cookie sheet. I use a dedicated pan.

But I think I've described it sufficiently for most so I won't explain it further for you.

good

 

[Highbeam]

Pook? Is that you?

 

[jetsam]

I think Webby arguing with himself about ash pans for two pages is the strangest piece of stove-related performance art I've seen this year.

 

[lsucet]

Going back to stove operation, the best way for me to start the fire is loading a good amount of small pieces at the front half of the stove and use the top/down fire with a piece of super cedar. Cat and draft temperatures are almost the same and draft doesn't go that crazy from starting point compare to cat temperature. I did try other methods and this one works the best for me. Closed the bypass when cat is just into active zone and cause draft is not that crazy the cat can eat the smoke easier when I shut down the bypass, minimising resident time and no smoke outside since early into the burn. On reload is better for me to rake the coals to the front. If I spread the coals making a bed is like everything want to catch at the same time and it will smoke outside for awhile till I start dialing it down. With coals at front it is lot lot lot less smoke.

 

[jetsam]

I put a little pile of kindling on the top front of the load so it burns right in front of the cat. Once the load catches that kindling on fire, the cat is ready to go no matter what the probe says.

I wouldn't recommend this method to anyone due to the risk of flame impingement, but my cat still looks pretty good after 2 seasons, and 3 seasons is gonna be its limit.

 

[webby3650]

I think Webby arguing with himself about ash pans for two pages is the strangest piece of stove-related performance art I've seen this year.

 

[Ashful]

Everyone else, for $50 I'll come over and write some numbers on your swoosh with a sharpie.

I put little triangle "arrows" on my swoosh with electrical tape, indicating the marks for repeatable 12-hour and 24-hour burn times. It was a little more work than just having the numbers to go by, but much easier to remember in the fall, after not having burned for five months.

@Ashful .... we have a THREE BK situation here.... your move!

I know when I'm beat! But I do have a third fireplace.

At yous guys with the ashpans, i found a sweet spot on my ashford 30.0 where i can run it untik the ashbed is getting kinda thick, then put a panful of ash through the hole in the floor during a hot reload, finish the reload, then deal with the full ashpan.

I am not sure if it is a BK approved technique, but i can run my stove for weeks without having to shut down for ash removal. Usually in deep winter i take a pan of ashes out every 5 days or so.

This is exactly what I do. Works like a charm. I bought a 4" diameter cast iron shower drain grate that I drop in place of the ash plug, so I can just sift ash into the pan, and keep the coals in the stove. When finished, I lift the grate out, and re-install the plug. BK should sell these as an accessory!

Also, @Marshy has a king and I think you have a smaller stove.

Unless I'm mistaken, Marshy posted that he got rid of his King, and was done with BK. He said it didn't make nearly enough heat for his needs. Am I mixing up posters?

 

[lsucet]

Unless I'm mistaken, Marshy posted that he got rid of his King, and was done with BK. He said it didn't make nearly enough heat for his needs. Am I mixing up posters?

I think you are right. Maybe he bought another king?

 

[jeffsk7]

What's everyone's thoughts on the quality of firebrick used in the blaze king stoves. I have 2 cracked in the back and lots of wear on the sides. Compared to other stoves I've had these are not holding up that great. I'm only on year 3. This isn't to bash blaze king, still love the stove. But are there more durable brick options out there?

 

[jetsam]

What's everyone's thoughts on the quality of firebrick used in the blaze king stoves. I have 2 cracked in the back and lots of wear on the sides. Compared to other stoves I've had these are not holding up that great. I'm only on year 3. This isn't to bash blaze king, still love the stove. But are there more durable brick options out there?

Unless you're hauling the stove up.and down a flight of stairs every day, I don't think it matters much. Cracked is okay.

 

[jetsam]

I know when I'm beat! But I do have a third fireplace.

You are actually going to need at least 2 additional stoves to maintain BK Superiority... I suggest installing four or six Ashfords in a ring with one of those Dr. Seuss stove shop venting solutions! (We want pictures.)

 

[Marshy]

Unless I'm mistaken, Marshy posted that he got rid of his King, and was done with BK. He said it didn't make nearly enough heat for his needs. Am I mixing up posters?

You are not. I sold my King and I'm working on installing a boiler. I think my opinion about the ash pan is still valid.

 

[kennyp2339]

You are actually going to need at least 2 additional stoves to maintain BK Superiority... I suggest installing four or six Ashfords in a ring with one of those Dr. Seuss stove shop venting solutions! (We want pictures.)

More stray cats to feed though, don't think his wife will like that.

 

[BrianN]

I have never used the ash box in the bottom of my king. I always figured that the ash would plume up under and create a mess in the box underneath.
I guess I will have to try that this year and see how it goes.

 

[Ashful]

I have never used the ash box in the bottom of my king. I always figured that the ash would plume up under and create a mess in the box underneath.
I guess I will have to try that this year and see how it goes.

I don't know any other way to empty ash. I've tried the bucket thing, and have made up my mind that anyone who claims it can be done without dusting up your house must have lower standards of cleanliness than me. Most folks do.

My favorite system is the grate style, used by companies like Jotul. In this system, the ash pan is sealed off by a door, and part of the firebox air space. Ash naturally falls thru the grate as the fire burns and you load, and you just empty it 2x per week. All of the coals stay in the box. The down side to this system is a little safety, in that a broken ash door or gasket will turn your stove into a forge, but those of us with them have just learned to always empty the pan BEFORE loading, to negate this issue.

The BK system is better than none, though. Keeping the coals in the stove, while trying to get ash into the pan, is a challenge. But I found a 4" round cast iron shower grate that fits into the space of my plug. I just pull the plug, drop the grate in its place, and rake the ash and coals across it. The coals stay in the stove, the ash goes into the pan. No plume, as the chimney draws any dust up. It's a very clean system.

 

[BrianN]

My wife is always walking around with a towel, or a mop, or a broom.
Every time I clean the stove out, she is there cleaning right behind me.
My current system isn't the best, but, it does not make too much of a mess. I do however, have to wait for the stove to cool down.
I have my metal bucket, metal shovel and shop vac.
Brush any large, warm coals aside. Scoop the ash, and as I am dumping them into the bucket, I follow the shovel with the vac, gathering any floating ash. It is not pretty, but, it is pretty quick and clean.
And yes, after I finish, I put my metal shop vac outside, just in case I accidentally gathered some hot ash, and it sparks up.
As said previously, I will try the ash trap next time I do a clean out. Even though I do need to let it cool down so that I can clean the chimney and do a deep clean before the real cold weather starts.

 

[WoodyIsGoody]

I don't know any other way to empty ash. I've tried the bucket thing, and have made up my mind that anyone who claims it can be done without dusting up your house must have lower standards of cleanliness than me.

True, the bucket method lets dust escape into the room which is unacceptable. I came to that conclusion 30 years ago. I'm surprised some people still use that method.

 

[Marshy]

My wife is always walking around with a towel, or a mop, or a broom.
Every time I clean the stove out, she is there cleaning right behind me.
My current system isn't the best, but, it does not make too much of a mess. I do however, have to wait for the stove to cool down.
I have my metal bucket, metal shovel and shop vac.
Brush any large, warm coals aside. Scoop the ash, and as I am dumping them into the bucket, I follow the shovel with the vac, gathering any floating ash. It is not pretty, but, it is pretty quick and clean.
And yes, after I finish, I put my metal shop vac outside, just in case I accidentally gathered some hot ash, and it sparks up.
As said previously, I will try the ash trap next time I do a clean out. Even though I do need to let it cool down so that I can clean the chimney and do a deep clean before the real cold weather starts.

Any plume that is made in the pedestal is pulled up into the firebox and into the chimney. The chimney draft takes it all up and out of the firebox. Try it and I bet you'll like it.

 

[bigaar]

Is the bypass door on the Ashford 30 supposed to pass a dollar bill test? I was thinking it did, but I do not see anywhere in the manual saying it should. If it should, is there bypass door adjustment instructions for Ashfords somewhere?

 

[WoodyIsGoody]

Is the bypass door on the Ashford 30 supposed to pass a dollar bill test? I was thinking it did, but I do not see anywhere in the manual saying it should. If it should, is there bypass door adjustment instructions for Ashfords somewhere?

Check pg. 36 of your Owner's Manual:

(broken link removed to http://www.blazeking.com/EN/PDF/manuals/OM-AF30-E.pdf)

The door adjustment is best done by feel of tension on the bypass damper handle. You can use the dollar bill test but be aware that the flat surfaces of the bypass gasket will have less resistance when properly adjusted than the knife edge seal of the door gasket. All the dollar bill test will reveal is whether there is any warpage (because the actual tension is best adjusted by handle feel).