While we are on the topic of cats failing what or when is the best time to do a reload? What temperature is ok to open the bypass and then the door? I guess it's hard for you BK guys to know exactly the temperature but do you let it fall out of the active zone or close to it?
Lopi Rockport
I reload anytime I need to. If I feel like I should add a few pieces then I do. No real schedule. Just avoid wet or icy wood.While we are on the topic of cats failing what or when is the best time to do a reload? What temperature is ok to open the bypass and then the door? I guess it's hard for you BK guys to know exactly the temperature but do you let it fall out of the active zone or close to it?
Lopi Rockport
That tape is gone in an instant, the cat won't care what color it is, it'll make it disappear.I almost feel stupid for asking but is the blue masking tape okay here? Oh and can the butt joint be anywhere or do you go for a corner?
So, do you have a Rockport and a BK?While we are on the topic of cats failing what or when is the best time to do a reload? What temperature is ok to open the bypass and then the door? I guess it's hard for you BK guys to know exactly the temperature but do you let it fall out of the active zone or close to it?
Lopi Rockport
So, do you have a Rockport and a BK?
I have coals left for a relight after the stove falls out of the active range but a 12 or 24 hour schedule is my norm so the cat is usually in the active range when I reload.
No just the rockport but am considering the ashford 25 for our other fireplace. But the claims of 24 hour reloads or more makes me want a freestanding bk instead too. Just hard to justify buying another $3k stove when this one is paid for and does the job just fine.
Lopi Rockport
I like to reload with a good bed of coals cause the new load start lighting up quick, less smoke, charr the wood quicker and back to black box again in no time.
Difference in wood. Once my cat goes inactive with hardwood I usually have big, red coals hiding under the ashes ready to light a new load.
Neither of my cats ever drop out of active range, when there are still coals visible coals in the stove. Am I alone, here? The coals must be just about gone, or at least completely buried in the ash, before it crosses into inactive. I'm burning mostly oak and ash.Difference in wood. Once my cat goes inactive with hardwood I usually have big, red coals hiding under the ashes ready to light a new load.
My cat activity has no bearing on when I reload. Here's my routine:While we are on the topic of cats failing what or when is the best time to do a reload? What temperature is ok to open the bypass and then the door? I guess it's hard for you BK guys to know exactly the temperature but do you let it fall out of the active zone or close to it?
Neither of my cats ever drop out of active range, when there are still coals visible coals in the stove. Am I alone, here? The coals must be just about gone, or at least completely buried in the ash, before it crosses into inactive. I'm burning mostly oak and ash.
That is the green stuff you may see on the steel cats (potassium manganate.)potassium magnate junk is masking the catalyst.
Should be OK. The smoke when it burns should bypass the side of the cat anyway.blue masking tape okay here? Oh and can the butt joint be anywhere or do you go for a corner?
You can do it any time, as long as you open the bypass for a few minutes before you open the door, so the cat has a chance to cool off. But usually, I "batch-burn" so I load full, then let the load burn to coals and the stove and cat are already pretty cool when I start thinking about re-loading. I still open the bypass for a couple minutes though.What temperature is ok to open the bypass and then the door? I guess it's hard for you BK guys to know exactly the temperature but do you let it fall out of the active zone or close to it?
Neither of my cats ever drop out of active range, when there are still coals visible coals in the stove. Am I alone, here? The coals must be just about gone, or at least completely buried in the ash, before it crosses into inactive. I'm burning mostly oak and ash.
My cat activity has no bearing on when I reload. Here's my routine:
Mornings: Turn stove to max when I come downstairs, go make coffee and water the chickens, then load the stove. Usually the coal bed is too big, but who cares? I need to get to work.
After work: Rake coals to top front, and burn stove on max setting to burn down coals. Throw on a piece of cedar or 2x4, if I need more heat than the coals can deliver.
Evening: As soon as coals are burned down to a reasonable level, load the stove full, and start all over!
The combustor pretty much never leaves the active zone.
Whoa. Read @Poindexter 's story on this page from last year's BK thread and his description of the issue matched mine very well.
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads...rformance-thread-everything-bk.145814/page-46
So he got a new cat after burning 14% spruce which is what I'm doing. It was also clogged and even a chunk of the cat fell off!
I still think that cat got poisoned by a copper jacketed lead bullet.
The cat was stained kinda dark where the substrate fell out, with a copper looking wash around it. IIRC copper is not a cat poison but lead is.
I realized the lead would need to vaporize to make it to the cat. And the boiling point of lead is 3180 deg. F which I don't think would be possible without melting your stove.
I still think that cat got poisoned by a copper jacketed lead bullet. The deceased got shipped to Walla Walla, I got a free in warranty replacement, and I never got a note from BK asking for $$.
The logs I bought had been felled on Fort Wainwright. There have been lonely soldiers walking around in the woods out there for 100+ years. The cat was stained kinda dark where the substrate fell out, with a copper looking wash around it. IIRC copper is not a cat poison but lead is.
Oblviously, with only some smaller coals left it the stove, the cat has stopped burning smoke quite a while before that. So, with a BK, can you tell when the load is done gassing and the cat is no longer burning smoke? Leaving the air where I originally set it when I cruised the load, about 15-20% open, when the cat is done burning, STT will level off around 250 and stay there for a long time, unless it's cold and I need more heat in which case I'll open the air a bit. I would need to put a probe in the Ks to get an accurate cat reading and see how long it stays "active"....or over 500.My cat does not drop out until down to a few small glowing nuggets.
Well, I've heard it said that you shouldn't burn zinc-plated nails in a cat stove, but I'm not sure if that advice came from a cat authority. If so, that would indicate that the zinc wouldn't have to be "vaporized" to harm the cat...after considering your cat failure further, I realized the lead would need to vaporize to make it to the cat. And the boiling point of lead is 3180 deg. F which I don't think would be possible without melting your stove. The boiling point of copper is even hotter. Is it even possible for the lead in a split of wood to make it to the cat?
You never gave that first cat that crapped out a vinegar bath, did you? I just popped some corn to munch while I await the results of the vinegar bath...I sent my first cat, that didn't make it three years of full time use, back to BK too. No word about why it failed. That one had what the manuals call "minor peeling" which is supposed to be normal. This steel cat has no peeling, it just quit after less than two years of full time use. Looking like the vinegar trick might be coming up soon as a last ditch effort.
That's why I haven't boughten a BK, and have instead chosen to remain blissfully ignorant.only people that can be happy with a 12 hour burn time are people that haven't had the pleasure of 24 hour burn times!
I sent my first cat, that didn't make it three years of full time use, back to BK too. No word about why it failed. That one had what the manuals call "minor peeling" which is supposed to be normal. This steel cat has no peeling, it just quit after less than two years of full time use. Looking like the vinegar trick might be coming up soon as a last ditch effort.
I am not loving the 12 hour burn times. The only people that can be happy with a 12 hour burn time are people that haven't had the pleasure of 24 hour burn times! I want my BK back!
At first read this sounded plausible since it would not be uncommon for there to be spent rounds in trees. Around here it's illegal to shoot into trees or natural timber (even if it's down and dead) but the world is full of inconsiderate and thoughtless individuals who don't give a damn. So, yes, plenty of rounds in timber.
But, after considering your cat failure further, I realized the lead would need to vaporize to make it to the cat. And the boiling point of lead is 3180 deg. F which I don't think would be possible without melting your stove. The boiling point of copper is even hotter. Is it even possible for the lead in a split of wood to make it to the cat?
Well, I've heard it said that you shouldn't burn zinc-plated nails in a cat stove, but I'm not sure if that advice came from a cat authority. If so, that would indicate that the zinc wouldn't have to be "vaporized" to harm the cat.
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