BurningIsLove said:
There have been numerous threads about the difficulties w/ everburn. Heck, I was one of the original critics.
Do a search using some keywords like everburn and VC and you'll find them.
But after spending a lot more time w/ mine, it's not as much a design 'defect' that cannot be overcome. Yes, it takes at minimum double the effort, care, and attention to detail that a VC-cat stove like the encore. It's far more temperamental, harder to make secondary combustion occur, more sensitive to draft & atmospheric conditions, etc. It is definitely not an entry level stove, nor one that you can expect to have working efficiently and consistently until your second season.
But, once you come to terms and become acquainted with it, it becomes MUCH easier and less effort, and the burn times are very long (10+ hours). Last year I couldn;t achieve secondary combustion unless it was below 25 degrees outside, only likely below 15 or lower. But its 37 degrees outside now and it's rumbling away in an efficient burn w/ a mix of green & seasoned wood.
It is without question designed (or at least advised) for an experienced, 24x7 burner who is using it for primary heat of a large space.
All the above being said, VC has been less involved with the issue than I would like.
I've been off forum for a while, and missed this thread...
It never ceases to amaze me how similar our thoughts and experiences with the same stove have been. I agree with your comments. This stove just plain takes a long time to get used to, more than a full season for both of us. I feel like I'm finally "getting there". My burntimes now are fantastic, better than my friends with burn tube on top designs can get (and using less wood) and I'm finally getting the emissions issue solved. I agree that this stove is designed for serious heating, and runs best when you are heating 24/7, and especially when outdoor temps are consistently low. I'm also disappointed in the lack of involvement by VC reps on the forums (I would think this would be the best "free" advertising they could get - certainly the most bang for the buck if they are paying someone at least part time for such as task), especially when other manufacturers have been very involved. The dealers and even CFM tech support guys aren't very helpful either based on all of the reports that have been discussed here - and really that's to be expected, anyone that has not used the stove personally for at least a year if not longer, probably isn't going to be of much help.
As for the glowing stove parts - NO, I have never had glowing stove parts, and personally I think there is a serious problem going on for anyone that does. I also haven't had any runaway fire events that made me worry about my stove (flue temps never stay above 1000 for more than 15 minutes for example). I would not continue to burn any stove that glowed red like that, its only a matter of time before those parts fail. If you're certain there are no leaks, then you need to limit secondary air intake (see detailed discussion about this). Paint flaking off is a sign of over-firing as well. If limiting intake air does not solve the problem, and VC doesn't want to take responsibility, I'd either accept the loss and move on, or take them to small claims court (usually that threat alone is enough for a company to "make it right"). And hey, if they are saying they haven't had many complaints, then they should not have a big problem with replacing a stove or two.
As for my old everburn video - you guys mentioned a broken link - I'm not sure what the problem is or was, but that file is still on my server. HOWEVER, in case you missed it, I just posted a brand new series of videos (with more to come) demonstrating how I operate my everburn stove. See:
https://www.hearth.com/talk/threads/14536/#159748
p.s. Craig I'm looking forward to listening to the new Gulland interview.
p.p.s. No one should be surprised that the everburn stoves do well in the EPA test. When you understand how the tests are performed, the only thing that shocks me is how any stove could fail. But the everburn stoves are especially well suited to pass the test with flying colors. I've posted in detail about this before...
In the cases of overfiring despite no leaking gaskets, you REALLY must read this article from John Gulland:
http://www.gulland.ca/florida_bungalow_syndrome.htm
There is something very simple that you can try which could help. All you need to do is take a piece of tin foil, stick it over your secondary air inlet (bottom rear of stove), fix it to the stove using the pre-drilled holes intended for the outdoor air connection, then poke a hole in the tin foil at the center. You can start with any size hole, and adjust as needed!
Read the article to understand why this is a better solution than alternatives such as a flue damper, cap restrictor, or barometric damper. If you want to get fancy, you can make something that is adjustable, this should not be much trouble really, I’m thinking of a simple metal, open/close slider control.