Vermont casting dauntless

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Okay.
That makes sense.
But no, most kiln dried wood is actually above 20%, i.e. too wet. Because it's kiln dried to kill bugs (and transport it legally without spreading invasive bugs), not to dry it.
 
Okay.
That makes sense.
But no, most kiln dried wood is actually above 20%, i.e. too wet. Because it's kiln dried to kill bugs (and transport it legally without spreading invasive bugs), not to dry it.
This is news to me! I assumed it was put in a kiln to get rid of the moisture. I am learning so much here.
 
Correct, no warning about kiln dried wood. Unfortunately, it does exclude burning highly compressed sawdust products which I was going to suggest, but deleted it.

FYI, there are legitimate sellers of kiln dried wood that do more than just bug killing. They are ok with you bring your ax and testing the wood for MC. I know of a couple in mid NY state, not sure about VT.
 
This place guarantees below 20% MC. Bring an axe and MC meter.
estimated 15% mc
Not sure about this one:
 
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Yeah but is that on a fresh split?
Anything that has been in a kiln will have sub10% on the outside...

We ve seen too many wood sellers advertising MC that turned out to be bogus.
 
This place guarantees below 20% MC. Bring an axe and MC meter.
estimated 15% mc
Not sure about this one:
Amazing thank you!!
 
He mistated his cross grain test which showed 19.8% moisture content, not 16.9% like he claims. That is a small difference of a percent.
I think you missed something. (The last readings - after the cross grain is shown and said it not the preferred method)
The 16.9 to 20.8 is demonstrated from the same parallel test spot and shows sinking the pins deeply was almost 4% difference in the reading.
It shows the readings rising from 16.9 to 20.7 as the pins go deeper and deeper.
The point of the video is to show that you need to sink the pins to get more accurate readings.

The cross grain was just to show it's not the preferable way to test, even though the readings were not to far off.
 
Fair enough. It's a good point. I'd like to find a video or image sequence that illustrates, step by step, the correct way to test wood moisture so that I don't have to create this from scratch for a sticky thread.
 
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The cat helps it burn cleanly at a lower rate.
So I m curious why, I have been in the middle of hot burns, about an hour/ hour and a half after reloading, and my stove pipe temperature plummets. I am not even having my fan spin, it’s less than 300 degrees. All the while my stove top is still getting hotter, reaching 6-700 degrees. I will have to turn the air control back to keep the stove from getting too hot. I don’t understand how these two things are happening at once. Stove top temp rising, while stove pipe temperature plummets. To be clear, I had the stove pipe temperatures much hotter for the first 5-6 hours of the burn I started up tonight.
 
Stove pipe temp dropping while the stove top temp rises is an indication of internal secondary combustion occurring.

What is meant by the fan spin. Is this a stovetop fan?
 
Stove pipe temp dropping while the stove top temp rises is an indication of internal secondary combustion occurring.

What is meant by the fan spin. Is this a stovetop fan?
Okay, so that’s the goal right? Internal secondary combustion?

The fan is just my gauge, I have it mounted to the stove pipe to give me a general idea. I know VC just recommends the stove top thermometer so I typically go by that, but have been confused by the times when the pipe has been hot and when it hasn’t.