Hopefully it had a low water cut off to shut off power to the fans when the line blew. Otherwise if it had a fire going with no water you could have bigger problems.
I wouldn't run it until the controller is hooked back up to the fan at least.
Negatory. There is no control on his boiler. For the record ColdInMichigan seems like a very nice dude AND I 100% believe he had no part in installing his system. He's way too smart to have done this. That said, his installation is a full-on example of how NOT to install a wood fired appliance. For the purposes of someone benefiting from this info in the future I'll outline below some of the things this particular DIY'er did horribly wrong:
Major items:
1.) The boiler plumbing is tied directly to his house plumbing with no backflow preventer / autofill device. It is hard plumbed with only a gate valve between the two sides.
2.) The boiler has no mixing valve/loop. Supply goes straight to the house, returns straight back to boiler. ColdInMi will be fixing this soon with an extra pump he has (similar to Eric Johnson's recommendation).
3.) The primary circ pump is plugged into the wall (on 100% of the time).
4.) The fan is plugged into the wall (on 100% of the time).
5.) The pex is good pex (1" pex-al-pex) but I'm guessing it's buried to an average depth of 6-12" as it approaches the house. That said, it's only loosing 5 degrees per side, +/-.
6.) It sounds like the pex was buried with some cored styrafoam blocks around it. For water intrusion purposes this might as well be direct-burial, uninsulated.
7.) There is a small expansion tank plumbed in the house but it is leaking and clearly blown (see my prior post).
8.) We now know the pressure relief valve is either non-functioning or rated far too high for boiler use (or both). It's also got no vent leg (if it blows, it's strategically directed toward where the operator would stand).
9.) The boiler is located basically outside. It is covered but it get's plenty of wind and probably a bit of precip too.
10.) I think the flue might be 4"...possibly 6", I did not measure it. It comes out and exits the barn at a 30 degree angle with about 8' of total pipe.
Minor items:
1.) The boiler is plumbed with a mix of black, galvanized, copper and pex pipe.
2.) Gate valves were used throughout instead of full port ball valves.
3.) The upper door seals are completely shot. A river of creosote runs down the left side.
4.) There is only one lower refractory remaining and it's in rough shape.
5.) I didn't get to see the upper refractory from the top but the secondary holes are present and in good shape. Upper refractories might need some attention though.
The good news:
1.) The EKO boiler is kick ass and rugged. It can come back from this abusive history.
2.) ColdInMichigan has a coil in his furnace plenum that I wish I had. It's a very nice coil, plenty big enough for a big heat load and/or low to moderate supply temps.
3.) The pex is proper O2 barrier pex in spite of its depth.
I've said it before but perhaps it's worth saying again - I am not an HVAC professional. Never have been, never will be. Just a DIY'er who learned everything he knows about boilers from this very site (and my own installation). There are pro's on this site that know more than I will ever know. But they also charge for house calls! ha.
I really hope we can get ColdInMichigan in a survivable situation for this winter. His kids appear to love the movie Frozen just like mine do but I don't think they want to build Olaf in the middle of the living room this week.