The "pick Joful's new stove" thread!

[Ashful]

Although I concur with the conclusion there will be a caveat with installing a BK freestanding stove in a fireplace. The thermostatic control is in the back. If there is too much heat build up in the fireplace cavity, the thermostatic operation can be erroneously affected. Talk with BK about this.

There's always a catch, isn't there? This is good information. I will be sure to check this with BK. Given how deep that stove is, the one going into the fireplace in the floorplan above will be fairly close to the wall in the back. The other fireplace is so deep I could put one stove in front of another, in that space.

 

[shoot-straight]

I have an alcove and have no issues with my stat. My stove is set the minimum from the back wall too. Even with the fan off. That potential problem is over exaggerated. In fact, I cannot remember seeing a confirmed case where it was the problem. I thought that was my problem. It was not.

 

[tarzan]

I still can't fathom not getting a stove simply beacause of some split wood you have that's too long.....

I will also say that buying an Ashford doesn't immediately garuntee magical 24 hr burns either.I have to run mine fairly high to keep warm when its cold. Normal burns in mine consists of 8-10 hours in active zone with fan running. Thats it. In mine, longer burns are impossible when fans are running. Yes I it makes that much of a difference in my setup. My pipedreams of loading once a day were crushed, but its still better than what I had or could have I think. If there was something betterbetter that fit my space and setup, I'd buy it. Although I'm dissapointed, I'm satisfied. My expectations were just too high.

This is what I was getting at when I asked about the blower earlier. the thermostat on the BK will regulate itself to the blower. For instance, if you run the stove at 500* without the blower running but then turn the blower on it will still maintain approximately the same stove top temps but provide more btu's by maintaining the same temps while the blower is scrubbing heat from the stove and of course burn wood quicker.

I don't think I could use my stove as a stand alone heat source for our 1500sq ft home without the blower. Huge difference in heat with or without the blower.

 

[branchburner]

If there is too much heat build up in the fireplace cavity

The easy (but not pretty) way to help prevent this is to have a fan on the floor blowing cool air behind the stove, such that it warms and flows back out of the opening over the top of the stove. This also pulls heat off the masonry... it's a great help pushing heat off my stove and out of the fireplace, since my stove (recessed half way into the opening) has a rear secondary burn chamber and no blower.

 

[Ashful]

I have an alcove and have no issues with my stat. My stove is set the minimum from the back wall too. Even with the fan off. That potential problem is over exaggerated. In fact, I cannot remember seeing a confirmed case where it was the problem. I thought that was my problem. It was not.

@begreen, can you point us to the thread or other info to which you're referring? Thanks!

 

[begreen]

I don't recall it being in a post. I have not run this stove and no longer have a fireplace so I'm not qualified to comment on it. This was from a private conversation with BK. That's why I suggested you contact them and ask what they think. With your large fireplace it may not be an problem. With tighter installations I can see where it might be an issue at times if the thermostat is no longer reading the ambient room temperature.

 

[bobdog2o02]

I don't recall it being in a post. I have not run this stove and no longer have a fireplace so I'm not qualified to comment on it. This was from a private conversation with BK. That's why I suggested you contact them and ask what they think. With your large fireplace it may not be an problem. With tighter installations I can see where it might be an issue at times if the thermostat is no longer reading the ambient room temperature.

The stat reads the stove temp not the room temp, right?

 

[Ashful]

@begreen, Cool. Thanks. Yes, I'll definitely question them on this. If the sensor is in the back of the stove, that may be an issue for me, as one stove will be slammed pretty close to the rear wall. If the sensor is on top... no problem!

 

[BrotherBart]

Yep. An issue with my 30-NC halfway in the fireplace even though it doesn't have a stat. I have to use a blower to push the heat out or it just keep building around the back of the stove and it keeps getting hotter. I can imagine the effect that would have on a stat. Though you have a lot more room for the stoves to shuck heat.

 

[tarzan]

Yes, the thermostat monitors stove temp. It is located at the back of the stove in the middle on top. It also has a shield covering it.

Edited to say this is on the Princess.

It would be worth asking about I suppose but I doubt you have much to worry about with the size of the fireplaces.

 

[shoot-straight]

Yes end the what if discussion and contact bk with your dimensions.

 

[begreen]

The stat reads the stove temp not the room temp, right?

You could be right. The last stove I had with a thermostatic control on it was the original VC Resolute. It read room temp. BK may be doing it differently. That's why I suggest asking them for guidance here.

 

[Ashful]

Yes, the thermostat monitors stove temp. It is located at the back of the stove in the middle on top. It also has a shield covering it.

Edited to say this is on the Princess.

It would be worth asking about I suppose but I doubt you have much to worry about with the size of the fireplaces.

Each fireplace is 5' wide x 9' high to block-off plate. One has a lintel at 5' height, and is 3' deep. The other has a lintel at 4' 5" height, and is 4' deep. If the T-stat was in the back of the stove, I'd be a little concerned about the 3' deep fireplace, but I suspect it's not an issue if on top. The 4' deep fireplace is so big that I can't imagine it would be a concern, even if the T'stat were in the rear.

Yes end the what if discussion and contact bk with your dimensions.

Hard to do that on a Sunday, and no harm in debating things before calls are made. If our discussion is bothering you, you don't have to read it, or comment.

 

[drz1050]

These guys don't list any pine, I think the Pine Barrens of Southern New Jersey is Joful's closest source of softwood that might be processed to 18" and ready for Sep 2015. Even though they don't list pine, they clearly handle a LOT of wood, and they buy wood too, according to the website. I dunno if it is legal to ship firewood over the Delaware river, there are lots and lots of rules about stuff back east.... http://www.jerseyfirewood.com/

$1276/ cord Holy chit.

 

[ddddddden]

Dunno 'bout the new BK's, but the Princess/King are supposed to be something like 6" from the rear wall for the t-stat to work properly. BK insert has the temp sensor on the front. If you call Chris, remember that he is on Pacific time.

 

[ironpony]

why not buy pellet stoves, sell off your CSS wood to buy pellets and use thermostats?? cleaner, easier, more consistent. Add a couple in other rooms and distribute the heat.

 

[bobdog2o02]

why not buy pellet stoves, sell off your CSS wood to buy pellets and use thermostats?? cleaner, easier, more consistent. Add a couple in other rooms and distribute the heat.

I kinda like this idea....

 

[ironpony]

I kinda like this idea....

when I was looking at an 1800's house that was my thought, put one in each old fireplace.

 

[Ashful]

I'd rather run oil than pellets. The sole advantage of pellets over oil, after all the hassle, is cost. I can afford oil.
But, if I can save money while getting excercise and satisfaction out of processing wood, then I consider that a win. I'd rather spend my time in the woods felling trees, than hunting Home Depot for the perfet pellet.

 

[Poindexter]

I had another idea about wood processing.

Once a pair of Ashfords are in and measured up I would maybe make a caliper out of half inch plywood. Like a capital letter I cut in half vertically. The distance between the two jaws would be something like 20", or 20 3/16" or whatever comfortably fits both stoves. Any "twenty" off the existing stack that fits inside the calipers can be loaded NS above the door rim.

Any existing split that doesn't fit inside the caliper can go in a jig to be cut down to 18" - or whatever 18.75" measured length that can be loaded EW.

So out of the existing wood maybe half can be loaded NS. Making 18s out of the long splits -shazaam- use the off cuts to fill the bottom of the firebox behind the coals, and then load 20s NS on top of that.

I keep telling my sons it pays to be lazy.

 

[Ashful]

I keep telling my sons it pays to be lazy.

We think alike. I'll always put time into setup, to minimize time in manufacturing. Actually... that's what I used to do for a living, in my first career as a robotics engineer.

 

[semipro]

I keep telling my sons it pays to be lazy

My sons are well aware....

 

[semipro]

Since radiant versus convective heat has been discussed I thought I'd relate my experience.
We used to run a Jotul 12 in our basement. For a variety of reasons we installed a pellet stove in its place. I understand you don't wan to go pellet and I respect that.
We noted a big change in how the basement felt. Both stoves were installed with a large masonry wall behind them that is below grade, so a big heat sink.
The big Jotul is obviously a primarily radiant device and using it resulted in overheating our basement. When we installed the pellet stove, with its forced-air convection we immediately found that more of the heat produced moved upstairs.
I guess what I"m suggesting is that if you want to heat the room where the stoves are located radiant may be best. If you want to heat the whole house though, installing a stove with forced air convection might be better. That said, I don't think you want air circulating between the stove and the masonry behind it. This will break down the insulating boundary layer there and result in even more heat loss through the masonry.
I think your idea of installing radiant heat shields behind the stoves is a good one.

 

[begreen]

If the stove has a blower on it will be pulling in room air toward the back of the stove, warming it up, then blowing it out across the stove top. A layer of insulation behind a stainless or aluminum sheet would help reduce masonry losses, but I wouldn't worry about it unless we are talking about an exterior wall fireplace.

 

[semipro]

I wouldn't worry about it unless we are talking about an exterior wall fireplace.

I got the impression somehow that Joful's hearths were on exterior walls?