Poor draft?

[SPED]

HEY Corie, Do you agree with longer term lining this stack?

Yeah that's a good question. My big concern with that is getting a 6" liner through the 90 degree bend and 6" id horizontal piece in the pic a couple pages back. I read from the manual that I can't use anything smaller, but i'm not sure how I would connect this otherwise(unless i use a 5.5). Also, since i'm marginal at best on the 2 part of the 10-3-2, how can you extend a flexible liner? Do you just hook up a piece of rigid class A to it and brace it? Sorry if that's a dumb question.

 

[SPED]

Well as long as I'm asking dumb questions, is there a way to extend my masonry chimney for less than what a liner would cost?

 

[Corie]

www.extendaflue.com

 

[SPED]

Ok, have had a fire going for about an hour and forty minutes at this point i'm up to 5 4" splits, that are completely burning, look like coals etc. While the door is open you can hear air going in kinda of a rushing sound. As soon as I close the door the roaring/rushing sound stops completely as if it isn't getting air. And the flames die within 30 secs. Should I be up to more wood, stove is 450, pipe is 400? Is there any easy way to check that nothing is blocked on the air intake?

I guess before I call a sweep, what would be my lining option? I would imagine because of the horizontal thimble id of 6" that I'd need either a 6" flex pipe with some 5.5 on the end and and adapter or a 5.5 all the way, but can i do 5.5? Will 5.5 make the 90 degree bend? While I was at it I would need to extend at least 2 feet on top to make absolutely sure i'm ok on the 10-3-2 rule. And let's say I do a liner and an extension, what are my chances of success? Yes I know noone knows, but give me a guess ;-) I want to make sure I don't just throw money at the problem if it won't do anything.

I want to think through my options before I spend any dollars I figure if a sweep is gonna charge me 50-100 to do a draft test, maybe i should just think about the liner ;-)

 

[SPED]

www.extendaflue.com

Wow those things are 600 bucks, dang

 

[Corie]

Shut the door with the air control wide open and hold a smoke generating device at the intake air opening at the bottom rear of the stove (3" round pipe). The smoke should be drawn into the hole big time if it isn't plugged up somehow.

 

[SPED]

Shut the door with the air control wide open and hold a smoke generating device at the intake air opening at the bottom rear of the stove (3" round pipe). The smoke should be drawn into the hole big time if it isn't plugged up somehow.

Ok, the match flame is drawn in there, not enough to put it out, but pretty good.

So where do I go from here? Basically time to look for a liner? Just trying to figure out my options. Thanks again for all the help.

 

[SPED]

I see brotherbart has a 5.5 liner with his englander. Anyone else ever done a 5.5 with this stove? And can you bend these 90 degrees? I don't have room to drop the tee fitting since my flue is only 7x7 id.

 

[BrotherBart]

I see brotherbart has a 5.5 liner with his englander. Anyone else ever done a 5.5 with this stove? And can you bend these 90 degrees? I don't have room to drop the tee fitting since my flue is only 7x7 id.

You buy the liner kit with a two piece "tee". It is standard with most kits. The body of the tee is attached to the liner before you lower it down the chimney. You then reach through the thimble and attach the "snout" of the tee and your inside pipe.

Yes, you can bend 5.5 through the thimble. I did it on my downstairs stove but it ain't something ya wanna play with. Member Todd did it also. Screw it up and you wreck the liner. Do it with a tee instead. I would not put a 5.5 liner in a chimney that short. Mine is over thirty feet so it drafts fine. On a short one I think your draft will be for crap. The 5.5 on the NC-30 is a straight shot up 21 feet.

 

[SPED]

So you think I should go 6"? What does the tee take as an input, just regular stovepipe or more liner? I can definitely fit 6" liner in the main chimney but the thimble is 6" on the nose.

 

[BrotherBart]

So you think I should go 6"? What does the tee take as an input, just regular stovepipe or more liner? I can definitely fit 6" liner in the main chimney but the thimble is 6" on the nose.

Don't know how long that thimble is. They sell long snouts. The big problem is that the snout is six inch.

 

[begreen]

The chimney appears to be made of precast cement blocks with a tile liner. Could he just knock off the cap and add some more cement block and tile to take it up a couple few feet?

As a test, I like the idea of sticking a temp 3' section of cheap pipe in the top of the flue with some insulation stuffed around it.

 

[stoveguy2esw]

ok, iove had a chance to look at the thread again , here's what i see

1. the flue is definately not high enough above the ridgeline(peak) by 2 ft , that aint gonna pull an epa unit in most cases. the tests he has run indicates a lack of sufficient draft (need.05 overpressure minimum) the old franklin didnt need near that much due to lack of resistance (an lack of efficiency as a result) dumps a lot of heat up the flue

2. the flue needs to be virtually airtight except for the top of the flue and the air path through the stove, we are low on pull so we have to force the flue to only be able to pull through the stove , dont give it any other option.

3. the draft control isnt blocked, dont waste your time with the coat hanger all that will do is possibly get caught up in there and cause a real problem.

4.and important: best suggestion i have seen yet , possibly haveing a mason come out and add a foot or so to the top of the flue with block and tile matching whats already there. BG is correct in my opinion. get the flue to the proper 2 ft height above the peak and draft will increase. might even be less expensive than the extendaflue depending on how much work is needed.

we have standby draw, the fire with the door open as well as the franklins operation proves that out , but the short stack with less than the optimal height above the roof is the problem. look at it this way , a chimney is like a car, horsepower is essential for speed, and this flue with this stove doent have the horsepower to accellerate , essentially its like a racecar with a briggs and stratton under the hood. we need more chimney above the thimble.