new Vapor Fire 100 with very poor heat

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think I would simply cut a piece of foam board to fit snug in the opening up against the window, and tape around the edges with lots of painters tape to air seal around the edges.
yeah I was thinking the same thing... Iooks like I will be replacing the windows in the spring
 
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but that has to be one of the oddest looking register setups I've ever seen.
They did strange things like this all over the house... not just went the furnace... I think they didn't have the money to hire someone so they did the best they could but didn't really know what they were doing.
 
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They did strange things like this all over the house... not just went the furnace... I think they didn't have the money to hire someone so they did the best they could but didn't really know what they were doing.
My house was allegedly designed by a very forward thinking (for the 70's) architect, but it seems the local builders didn't execute the plans well. As a result the house had invisible water infiltration for decades that went unnoticed by the previous owners. Plus the hexagonal Terra cotta tile is tenting in the middle of the room which sucks. I feel your pain, but I'm getting inspired by your determination. I've found four new areas of air infiltration I the last two days.
 
My house was allegedly designed by a very forward thinking (for the 70's) architect, but it seems the local builders didn't execute the plans well.
I got a little bit of that going on here too but I'll get it sealed up sooner or later
 
Not getting any easier to keep track of all these pages, and not sure it was mentioned before or if it was, what was said - but have you considered a mini-split heat pump? Also not sure exactly how your winter climate is, outdoor temperature-wise. But thinking you should be able to get a very good cold climate setup installed for half that amount. And get a/c & dehumidifying for the summer months to boot.
Still not gonna be cheap to run if the heat wont stay in the house...
 
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Still not gonna be cheap to run if the heat wont stay in the house...

Yes, true, but one strategically placed could likely improve the situation quite a bit. And would likely be cheaper to run than anything else other than wood. Maybe. Depending on local LP prices.
 
'm getting inspired by your determination. I've found four new areas of air infiltration I the last two days
I'm happy to hear that this book we got going here is helping other people then just myself. I just got home from geting the supplies to do the rim joists. I went with 2in ridged foam. Going to do the unfinished part first and go from there.
 
I'm happy to hear that this book we got going here is helping other people then just myself. I just got home from geting the supplies to do the rim joists. I went with 2in ridged foam. Going to do the unfinished part first and go from there.
Lots of us following along to learn.
 
yeah I was thinking the same thing... Iooks like I will be replacing the windows in the spring

I found this thread about a week ago and read all of it. Good to see some improvement, though sorry to see that there has been no big reveal that can be fixed.

I have no wood furnace experience and will leave that area alone but thought I’d mention a few thoughts that came to mind as I read the massive thread.

1). Insulation and air sealing pay major dividends all year round. Good to pursue that no matter what.

2) We replaced windows in our former home and loved them. In our current home it’s cost prohibitive and was not even recommended by our energy audit. We have, however, installed interior window inserts (ours are aluminum framed with vinyl sheeting), and this has been an easy way to make a huge improvement in the comfort of our home. [Hearth.com] new Vapor Fire 100 with very poor heat

3). Insulated ducts are great, but have you checked inside the insulation to make sure that your lines haven’t been disconnected or bumped loose at their attachment points? It sounds as if the BTUs from 2 cords of wood simply have not made it to your living space more than can be accounted for with functional duct work even if it does run through a crawl space.

4) Your idea of turning your crawl space into part of the conditioned envelope sounded great. I wish we could do that with our attics (where all our ductwork is—it appalls me).

Kudos to you for caring about efficiency, not giving up, and working with the knowledgeable folks on this forum. I wish you well as you keep on working on it.
 
We have, however, installed interior window inserts (ours are aluminum framed with vinyl sheeting), and this has been an easy way to make a huge improvement in the comfort of our home
Some of my windows are fogged over so I think I'm just going to replace them all in the spring/summer. The big window in my living room is in nice shape maybe I will put a insert on that one.
 
Some of my windows are fogged over so I think I'm just going to replace them all in the spring/summer. The big window in my living room is in nice shape maybe I will put a insert on that one.
We replaced a bunch of fogged windows a few years back too. They were actually really good windows (Pella) but at around 40 years old, it was time...it was also nice to get rid of the wood frame to paint every few years, and the Pella roll-o-screens too.
It was amazing how much better it made the house look with fresh windows (had the outside wrapped too)
We also skipped replacing a large picture window because it was fine (and expensive)
I'm glad that I didn't replace them because I thought it was going to help with heating/cooling the house, because it didn't make a lot of difference. I think windows are often oversold for helping with heating/cooling.
Now if the old windows were elcheapo's, single pane, or poorly installed air leakers, I'm sure it would have been a different story.
 
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We replaced a bunch of fogged windows a few years back too. They were actually really good windows (Pella) but at around 40 years old, it was time...it was also nice to get rid of the wood frame to paint every few years, and the Pella roll-o-screens too.
It was amazing how much better it made the house look with fresh windows (had the outside wrapped too)
We also skipped replacing a large picture window because it was fine (and expensive)
I'm glad that I didn't replace them because I thought it was going to help with heating/cooling the house, because it didn't make a lot of difference. I think windows are often oversold for helping with heating/cooling.
Now if the old windows were elcheapo's, single pane, or poorly installed air leakers, I'm sure it would have been a different story.
hmmm mine are not cheap windows as far as know at least. They are Andersen's windows but original to the house. Some are not sealing up good anymore on top but I put weather striping in yesterday to help with that. I would like new ones not only for the heat but also the look. My sister got new ones in her house last year and they look really nice. She said she could see the difference in the heat but hers were in much worse shape then mine. On a side note I got half way around the basement today with the foam board. I didn't seal any of them in yet. I figure I will just do them all at once so I can take my time and cut and measure.
 
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My sister got new ones in her house last year and they look really nice. She said she could see the difference in the heat but hers were in much worse shape then mine. On a side note I got half way around the basement today with the foam board. I didn't seal any of them in yet. I figure I will just do them all at once so I can take my time and cut and measure.
We added the mullions on ours to give it the divided light look...I like that.
And went with casement windows too...they generally seal better. But our house was built for casement windows though too. (taller, more narrow window openings)

Good call on sealing the foam in later, all at once...once you crack a can open, its best to keep moving. Only have to clean up once that way too.
 
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On a side note I got half way around the basement today with the foam board. I didn't seal any of them in yet. I figure I will just do them all at once so I can take my time and cut and measure.
Hopefully you didn't do like I did when I started out...I cut the foam too close to exact size and it made it harder to get the expanding foam in there right. IMO its much easier (and a better seal) to leave a nice gap to fill up.
 
Hopefully you didn't do like I did when I started out...I cut the foam too close to exact size and it made it harder to get the expanding foam in there right. IMO its much easier (and a better seal) to leave a nice gap to fill up.
I left like a 1/8in gap little more maybe
 
I left like a 1/8in gap little more maybe
That's what I did too...I ended up going more like 1/4" to 3/8" the whole way around. Just seemed to work better...easier to cut too since you don't have to be so precise. I tend to get a little perfectionistic, even with stuff that just doesn't need it! ;lol
I call it "attention to details"...some would call it OCD :oops:
 
That's what I did too...I ended up going more like 1/4" to 3/8" the whole way around. Just seemed to work better...easier to cut too since you don't have to be so precise. I tend to get a little perfectionistic, even with stuff that just doesn't need it! ;lol
I call it "attention to details"...some would call it OCD :oops:
Hmm I could take them out and shave some off?
 
Hmm I could take them out and shave some off?
Oh, that's up to you, 1/8" will work, I just thought it was easier to get the spray foam in a larger gap, and then it probably traveled back in further too...which would make a better seal...I'd think...
 
Did you see (or feel) any obvious air leak areas? It was cold when I started doing mine and there were a couple spots that really had a lot of cold air coming in...and my rim joist area doesn't have near the gaps I've seen on some other houses!
 
but the house is 75 right now and it's 30 now so it must be helping
Is that the whole house, or do you have part of it blocked off still?
 
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