new Vapor Fire 100 with very poor heat

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I know no wants me to help it with another stove. Everyone is telling me my money would be better spent on sealing... but I need to able to do it. In alot of cases I cant...
 
Even though your Avalon is a little smaller than ideal (probably) I still think it would provide a surprising boost to the overall house temp when combined with the Kuuma. It would/should get you through this winter and give you an idea where you might want to go with all this next, without spending the big bux on the F3500 and new chimney all at once...
 
Even though your Avalon is a little smaller than ideal (probably) I still think it would provide a surprising boost to the overall house temp when combined with the Kuuma. It would/should get you through this winter and give you an idea where you might want to go with all this next, without spending the big bux on the F3500 and new chimney all at once...
its 45 in the living room... Im thinking propane furnace. They want 6k to do the 3500... I think hes trying to play me cuz he knows the house is cold.
 
its 45 in the living room... Im thinking propane furnace. They want 6k to do the 3500... I think hes trying to play me cuz he knows the house is cold.
You spelled proPAIN wrong... ;) ;lol
That's complete BS if he is trying to take advantage of the situation! :mad:
What's heating oil prices like in your area? Around here its cheaper than propain for sure...
 
Ill keep the living room blocked off, VF100 on max, and the electric set to min.... I guess ill get by... thats all I can do at this point...
 
Switching gears a bit...it would admittedly be a small sample...but if you took a reading of your electric meter at midnight, then heated totally with electric for 24 hours, then took another meter read at midnight again, it might give you a rough idea of your heat load...you would have to calculate HDD in and all too.
Not that this fixes anything, but it would be nice to know...
 
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Switching gears a bit...it would admittedly be a small sample...but if you took a reading of your electric meter at midnight, then heated totally with electric for 24 hours, then took another meter read at midnight again, it might give you a rough idea of your heat load...you would have to calculate HDD in and all too.
Not that this fixes anything, but it would be nice to know...
Im not sure it would be correct... I'm using 4 of them.... theres alot more... Im trying to save as much as can
 
Some how I have to make that happen there...
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Going back to this pic...I just cant figure out what is going on there...that is some really weird framing! Can you get a pic of what is up in behind that wiring, what the framing that is actually sitting on the foundation wall looks like, exactly?
 
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Im not sure it would be correct... I'm using 4 of them.... theres alot more... Im trying to save as much as can
You have 4 electric meters?! !!!
 
haha no 4 of the electric baseboards
Oh, ok, sorry. Well, whatever you are using would still show up on the 24 hr meter read, and be able to be converted into BTU's...
 
its wrong anyway... whatever it is... its going to be more

He means letting the VF100 die out and heating the WHOLE house simply with electric, taking a meter read after the fire dies out and then again 24 hours later. This will then give you your energy consumption during that 24 hour time frame which can then be converted to gross BTU's.

That's if the meter doesn't fry itself from spinning too fast! ;lol ::-)
 
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it doesnt matter thats not what is heating the house half the house is 45 right now
I understand...what I am saying is to shut the VF down for a day, open the house back up normal like, heat the place to your preferred temp for 24 hours, get a meter reading. This reading, minus your average daily usage, would roughly equal your 24 hr BTU load. Might cost a bit, but 24 hours shouldn't be too bad, especially next week when its a little warmer.
But if you don't care what the number is, then I guess it doesn't matter...just would be nice to see once and for all if the VF is just completely overloaded, or something is not quite optimized yet...although it sure seems like that's been covered.
 
I understand...what I am saying is to shut the VF down for a day, open the house back up normal like, heat the place to your preferred temp for 24 hours, get a meter reading. This reading, minus your average daily usage, would roughly equal your 24 hr BTU load. Might cost a bit, but 24 hours shouldn't be too bad, especially next week when its a little warmer.
But if you don't care what the number is, then I guess it doesn't matter...just would be nice to see once and for all if the VF is just completely overloaded, or something is not quite optimized yet...although it sure seems like that's been covered.
Holy crap man... I dont have the money you think I do... there is just no way I can do that... sorry
 
Holy crap man... I dont have the money you think I do... there is just no way I can do that... sorry

If heating the place with electric really does cost -that- much over a 24 hour period, than yeah, I think you do have an astronomical heat load.
 
If heating the place with electric really does cost -that- much over a 24 hour period, than yeah, I think you do have an astronomical heat load.
it doesnt I used it all last month it only went up 30 but the vf100 was running the whole time
 
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