new Vapor Fire 100 with very poor heat
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brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
Couldn't cost much more than $25-30 for the day...$40 at the most.
$40 per day would be $1200 per month...I can't imagine it would run more than that.
My buddy had an all electric house and during the "polar vortex" event we had a few winters back, he had a $900 bill.
He installed a NG system, with AC...then sold the place.
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
new Vapor Fire 100 with very poor heat
I know no wants me to help it with another stove. Everyone is telling me my money would be better spent on sealing... but I need to able to do it. In alot of cases I cant...
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Reposting, in case it was missed...
900? that's why I'm keeping the VF100 going... again what do I get out of knowing the BTU number?
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
Like I explained before...it would be just to put a number on it...because its hard to make informed decisions going forward when you have an undefined target. If the plan is to just add more firepower until it is adequate to keep up, then that certainly is your prerogative.
If the plan is to insulate/air seal until you win...well, that is certainly not a bad idea.
I would want a number...but that is just me.
If your not willing to seal your house up to reduce the heat load... you are going to compensate with another wood burning stove?... not sure why you don't just go with a larger wood furnace instead of 2 burners. Better make your mind up before the window closes.
I have a wood stove insert along with my wood furnace, but I only used it 5 days last winter. Sounds like if you get a woodstove upstairs you will be firing it everyday to keep up. Two units to fill, more wood mess...that will get old real fast.
It's going to cost 800 to remove the VF100, then 500 to ship it back and maybe 800 to install the new one that's why...If your not willing to seal your house up to reduce the heat load... you are going to compensate with another wood burning stove?... not sure why you don't just go with a larger wood furnace instead of 2 burners. Better make your mind up before the window closes.
I have a wood stove insert along with my wood furnace, but I only used it 5 days last winter. Sounds like if you get a woodstove upstairs you will be firing it everyday to keep up. Two units to fill, more wood mess...that will get old real fast.
I have this lingering picture in my head of the guy that told you the "thin" insulation in the ceiling was ok when you had a chance to change it. Did he look like he had just crawled out of a sleeping bag when he got to the job in the morning?
Heat loss of the magnitude you're speaking should be obvious as the nose on your face but after this amount of scrutiny it hasn't been discovered. I can open a window in my house and baking a pie in the oven will keep the house above 45 degrees.
Heat loss of the magnitude you're speaking should be obvious as the nose on your face but after this amount of scrutiny it hasn't been discovered. I can open a window in my house and baking a pie in the oven will keep the house above 45 degrees.
Well no he looked like any other guy if you ask me... he did put a very nice ceiling up if you ask me...
Your first post states you were able to keep the house a comfy 75 with a 50% efficient Clayton consuming 9 cord for the season. If nothing has changed within the heating envelop something doesn't add up at all.
Please post a picture from behind the wires on the basement wall so we can see what the sill plate looks like.
In the picture of the ceiling in the living room what is the hole/access going up that is right of the ceiling fan?
Please post a picture from behind the wires on the basement wall so we can see what the sill plate looks like.
In the picture of the ceiling in the living room what is the hole/access going up that is right of the ceiling fan?
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
This ^ ^ ^.
Having a few select areas foamed would possibly be a good option too...but yes, need a better pic (closeup) of what exactly things look like up there above/behind those wires in the sill plate/rim joist area...
garmford
Member
I noticed the window next to your front door is cantilevered past the foundation of the house and you also are showing a ton of heat loss in that area too. Is this the picture under that area? Obviously getting rigid foam in there is nearly impossible but you could push batt insulation in there or better yet, you may be able to remove the plywood from the outside under the window bump out and insulate, caulk, seal any holes that the romex goes thru the plates, then put the plywood back on.
i won’t argue that rigid foam accompanied with spray foam is you’re best defense, but in areas that you can’t get to, batt insulation will still be a huge improvement.
That's why I'm starting to think. It must be at the delivery. Due to the nature of the epa furnaces they are slow and steady heat producers unlike the old clayton. So definitely alot of air infiltration near or around the rim joists cooling the the ducts... that's my take on it anyway.
This is correct... My freinds use to come over and complain it was too hot in the house... Sometimes when the fire got to big it would go to 77. This is one of the photos I sent to the Lamppas when I was asking if it would be a good replacement...
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@brenndatomu and @JRHAWK9 how much wood could a guy comfortably comfortably go through per heating season if he were to load the vf100 full every time the furnace goes down to coals on max setting? I was thinking 5 cords but you two have first hand experience.
What im trying to get at is, if the clayton has an estimated 50% efficiency and burns 9 cords. The vf100 (correct me if I'm wrong) 86%? And on top of that Lampa gave @gary38532 knowledge to bump up the rate of burn capacity. So maybe he is able to go through 6 cords now with the adjustments made? This is all speculation so correct/add on if it's not accurate.
With that logic he should be near the same heat output the old clayton was producing, except at a slow and steady rate of heat delivery.
What im trying to get at is, if the clayton has an estimated 50% efficiency and burns 9 cords. The vf100 (correct me if I'm wrong) 86%? And on top of that Lampa gave @gary38532 knowledge to bump up the rate of burn capacity. So maybe he is able to go through 6 cords now with the adjustments made? This is all speculation so correct/add on if it's not accurate.
With that logic he should be near the same heat output the old clayton was producing, except at a slow and steady rate of heat delivery.
maple1
Minister of Fire
Im not an IR or insulation expert but seems to me those IR pics are all showing huge heat loss out the bottom, in the joist area. Which is also where the ductwork is. And a good part of the ductwork is also in a crawlspace? Think I also see some hot spots up high. That is still my number 1 suspect, as mentioned on page 22. Still also havent seen any temp measurements comparing actual plenum temp to temp out the registers. I dont think.
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
@JRHAWK9 would know better than me...he pushes his VF100 to the max way more often than I do...and has the detailed wood quantity records too...he will be able to give us a definitive answer.
I'm saying 5-6 cords would be max...depending somewhat on wood species...
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