I bet that's where im going to end up. I don't think they will be easy fixes plus its hard to get anyone to come out here and do anything. I live in the deep woods. Lots of people hear where Im at and just say no.
new Vapor Fire 100 with very poor heat
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JRHAWK9
Minister of Fire
It normally doesn't get that cold here either! -20° is about as cold as we normally see, and even that is not too often. That one stretch of weather was a crazy polar vortex.
I have LP as a backup. It did kick on the very last morning of that cold snap and run for an hour or so. Before that it was all Kuuma. LP thermostat is set to 68°.
Here's my record of those days. 6 of the 7 days were 70+ HDD's. LP ran a total of 111 minutes over that span. I remember that 25 minute LP run day as I was pee'd off because there must have been a wet split or two which totally screwed up the loading that night. I remember my plenum temps were lower than they should have been and the computer was spending time on '1' and '2' when it should have been on pilot.
JRHAWK9
Minister of Fire
Wait to see if slowing the blower down does something. If it does, try slowing it down more.
Are you -SURE- you are burning well seasoned wood?
the wood Im burning now has been in my basement for two years. Next to the old clayton that whole time. Im not sure how to get it any better
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
OK, I lied...I just went down to do the overnight load...this mornings load was 32.9#
It finally dropped to 71* in here (still 40 out) so I loaded ~25# for the overnight. (for those reading along, that's a pretty small load) There were a few hot coals yet...it would have went on its own, but I try to limit any unnecessary smoke going up the chimney, so I'll just drop a match on those smoldering splits (literally) and they usually light right up...its off to the races after that.
I have better luck dropping an unlit match on coals than a lit match...they often go out when you light up them first, so all you did was to add one tiny half charred split to the pile...but if you drop it in unlit, when the hot coals light it, it flares up big at first and everything else that was already smoking takes right off...try it somtime!
I have zero problems with it going out. There just no heat so who cares.OK, I lied...I just went down to do the overnight load...this mornings load was 32.9#
It finally dropped to 71* in here (still 40 out) so I loaded ~25# for the overnight. (for those reading along, that's a pretty small load) There were a few hot coals yet...it would have went on its own, but I try to limit any unnecessary smoke going up the chimney, so I'll just drop a match on those smoldering splits (literally) and they usually light right up...its off to the races after that.
I have better luck dropping an unlit match on coals than a lit match...they often go out when you light up them first, so all you did was to add one tiny half charred split to the pile...but if you drop it in unlit, when the hot coals light it, it flares up big at first and everything else that was already smoking takes right off...try it somtime!
Sounds to me like the ol clayton was a bandaid. I've woke up with temps in the low 20's out.....the fire ashed over with a few coals, the blower not running with a 74 degree home. Prior to all improvements over the years, I couldn't get the house above 68 with our furnace running full bore in those temps. Now, I can take the house to 80 or higher if I wanted to. While insulation made some difference, airsealing made the biggest difference. Seek makes an infrared camera that works with a smart phone. I bought one and they are worth their weight in gold. Any renovations I do, I can confirm everything is sealed and insulated before closing up the walls.
It's 62 now if that's the case it must have been a big band aid. I miss the clayton
The way it's sounding the house has to be warm with no fire in this furance? I dont want to spend any more money to help it. I got so much into it now I would be better off buying propane at this point
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Been there done that. When I upgraded, I hated the new furnace. Like you I also had to install a liner. I struggled the first year and slowly made improvements to the house. Fast forward....I dont burn a fraction of the wood I used to and we are much more comfortable. I feel for you...its alot to go through.
No not perfect, but matched for the heat load. A woodfurnace shouldn't be any different than purchasing a central furnace. If a house has a heat loss of 100,000 btus at zero degrees and you purchase a 60,000 btu furnace and it can't keep up....is it the furnace that's to blame? What's the size of your central furnace?
Our home isn't super tight for it's very old....however just this morning it was around 40 when I woke up....no woodfurnace going and I watched a movie that was an hour and a half long and I didn't drop a degree in the home (73 degrees). With that being said...if you have a good sized woodfurnace (I would consider the Kumma in that category) burning and can't get the house over 68 degrees in 40 degree weather, then your heating the great outdoors. It cannot be the furnace, I don't think it can keep up with the heat load, or it's not ducted right. I've never seen a post with a Kuuma not operating correctly, but I have seen a post or two where they were not large enough for the heating demand of the home. Like I say it's not the furnace's fault if its operating as it should and just isn't sized correctly for the home.
woodey
Feeling the Heat
If you have a firebox full of coals make sure your primary air vents are clear of coals. As Brenn. has said I also prefer not loading the box full, maybe 1/2 to 2/3 depending on weather conditions and sometimes if I end up with a lot of coals at the end of the the cycle I turn the lower limit switch down to 100 and the blower cycles on more often.
JRHAWK9
Minister of Fire
seriously?! wow.
Just thinking out loud here....
I know you don't have a return air hooked up. Is the furnace in the basement and do you have good cycling of air? Just wondering if, for some reason, you are not getting good internal cold air circulation. Grasping at straws here.
Do you have any records which show what you've used in electricity during a full heating season....or better yet, over numerous heating seasons so you can average them? Maybe from a previous owner or from your electric company...?? One could take what you've consumed in the past to heat the house and convert it to wood required to produce the same BTU's. Heck, even a couple months worth of heating bills in the dead of winter would work. I believe you did mention you burned 10 cords (?) a winter with the Clayton...? That's a lot of wood for the temps you see in the winter.
This is really mind boggling.
brenndatomu
Minister of Fire
Something doesn't add up here...a Clayton 1800, (which is a large furnace) with all its known inefficiencies, would heat the house to 75* on 9 cords in the coldest weather, but the VF100 wont do 69* running hard at 40* outside...it just doesn't add up...I don't get it...scratching my head here...
JRHAWK9
Minister of Fire
same here
I would like to see what his delta is....if it's 30-40° that should be -plenty- to heat the house in those temps. Assuming return air temps of no more than 65° (if anything they may be lower than that if the upstairs is 68° at the most) AND good internal return air circulation. He was seeing 100° plenum temps with the blower on HIGH......100-65 = 35° or higher. With the blower on HIGH!
In 40 I had to open the windows with the clayton th
It's a fact I use to open the windows in 40 and I only filled the clayton half way
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