Is there a way to get flue temp without a probe thermometer? Wouldn't I have to drill a hole into my very expensive double wall pipe for that? Can you measure outside temp with a heat gun and determine inside temp from that? I don't mind just getting a magnetic thermometer of some kind but a probe thermometer with already having smoke in the house issues makes me very nervous
New to wood stoves - lots of smoke in the house on first burn - Pleasant Hearth 2200
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Check the seal around the ash pan and plug also check door seals and around where the hinges mount into the stove face. I believe these stoves are made in china and have questionable quality. I have a furnace built by US stove also questionable quality and I found welds in the front on the hinge mounts that were not fully welded and I could see fire through the gap. I placed firebrick in side the firebox in front of the gap. The stove maybe fine especially if any gaps can be tightened up. You could fill the ashpan and leave it full. Ash pans are a pain in the ass shovel and bucket is much better unless you have a large furnace with a shaker or auger. Ashpans are a good source for air leaks and big ash pans and big grates are a good source for big air leaks.
This could be an issue for the first burn. I obviously had nothing in the ash pan for the first burn. Second burn I had filled the ash pan from the first burn and there was a good bit around the opening (the ash pan opening is one brick size) and putting the brick back down on the ashes should have, in theory, sealed it up pretty good. So I don't think it would have been an issue after that?
What he said^.
Also, reloading criss cross etc you get much less fuel in than if you reload with all the splits in the same direction, neatly packed. You're only utilizing 1/3 of the capacity of your firebox (and thus burn time).
Also ashes don't seal well, when there is an inrush of air. So I don't believe the second burn should have been fine.
Also, reloading criss cross etc you get much less fuel in than if you reload with all the splits in the same direction, neatly packed. You're only utilizing 1/3 of the capacity of your firebox (and thus burn time).
Also ashes don't seal well, when there is an inrush of air. So I don't believe the second burn should have been fine.
So am I trying to load as much fuel in there as possible? At this point it's burning everything in 2 hours regardless of how much I put in there, so more wood is just more money gone.
How would you suggest I seal off air from the ash pan? There's a 1" gap between the stove bottom and the top of the ash pan - it's definitely not sealing anything on the bottom. They're depending on that brick sitting against something on the bottom to seal it up
No you need a probe thermometer in order to know what is going on. Outside temps won't tell you anything
There's two things. Efficiency and burn time.
If your ashpan leaks, your efficiency is poor as most heat goes out the chimney.
The burn time depends on the fuel load (and burn rate). Yes, more wood in a poor efficiency stove equates to more wood used. But given an efficiency, if you want more burn time, you have to add more wood.
Make the room dark, put a bright light inside the stove, and see if there are any leaks you can find. Check very carefully.
If that 1" is a direct gap from fire to air, then that's your problem. Don't know how to fix that.
If your ashpan leaks, your efficiency is poor as most heat goes out the chimney.
The burn time depends on the fuel load (and burn rate). Yes, more wood in a poor efficiency stove equates to more wood used. But given an efficiency, if you want more burn time, you have to add more wood.
Make the room dark, put a bright light inside the stove, and see if there are any leaks you can find. Check very carefully.
If that 1" is a direct gap from fire to air, then that's your problem. Don't know how to fix that.
Is there one on amazon that's considered best? Just drill a hole and stick in there?
There is a felt pad on the bottom of the brick that seals off the ash pan opening. I don't think there is any meaningful amount of air coming through there.
The most obvious air entry is the large columns at each back corner that lead to the upper pipes. There is zero control and zero flow restriction to air coming from there into those pipes. I think snobuilder may have a point about that.
I can take pics, but they're all the same as in his thread. Big holes at bottom back corners. Those lead to the pipes.
The most obvious air entry is the large columns at each back corner that lead to the upper pipes. There is zero control and zero flow restriction to air coming from there into those pipes. I think snobuilder may have a point about that.
I can take pics, but they're all the same as in his thread. Big holes at bottom back corners. Those lead to the pipes.
No restrictions on the intakes no but the tubes themselves are designed to introduce the right amount of air.
Most of the newer stoves particularly the cheaper stoves have no control of the secondary air. My Ashley furnace is that way, I run that on a 35' chimney I damper it down. by cutting primary air then a flu damper until I get a slower burning fire. I never block the secondary air inlets.
Yes if you bring the draft into spec it will work fine. But we need more data in this case to know if there is even an issue
I see you located the open tubes at the bottom of the stove. The factory ash clean out was another concern I had alog with its small size and is why I added the air tight ash tray and open grid floor. This isn't an easy conversion but I would think the factory clean ou is sealing itself off otherwise it wouldn't get certified....I'm assuming.
Maybe I missed something,, I'm still confused when you are actually getting smoke? On starting the fire, reloads, and burn?
To start you need the tools - probe, stt guage, gloves, moisture meter, metal bucket with lid, good wood and kindling.
To start you need the tools - probe, stt guage, gloves, moisture meter, metal bucket with lid, good wood and kindling.
So the damper in the chimney is enough? Good news. These cheaper stoves seem to have similar designs. It is also interesting that you are saying that the more expensive stoved actually DO have controls on the secondary air intakes....HMMMMM>
Some do some don't. Some pull all air through the same intake so restricting primary also restricts secondary. It all in how each company chooses to design it. There is no set design
How does a person control and keep the" draft into spec" in different weather conditions or is the draft always the same?
Pretty easily it all depends on the setup though. My old house had close to40' of chimney and I needed 2 dampers to control that. This one at about 20' I just had to mess with angles on the elbows to get it right. Yes when it's really cold I will be slightly over and there is a point where it gets to warm and I don't have enough. But we are talking about a variation of . 02 to . 03" of water column. Wind doesn't effect my draft much some people it will so you will have to have the right cap to minimize that issue.
It absolutely does vary but in general if you get to the middle of the speced range on an average day you will be fine.
Yes technically if the manufacturer doesn't allow them you shouldn't install one. But you also shouldn't install a stove on a chimney with excessive draft so I will always choose a damper if need be. And more manufacturers are starting to allow dampers in their manuals now which is a good thing.
But adding a damper in the pipe won't void the warranty or ul listing of the stove
But adding a damper in the pipe won't void the warranty or ul listing of the stove
Weather conditions, wind and turnulancd changes my draft big time. I guess it all depends where you live and setup.
Once you get burming well, some stoves you won't see draft changes unless you have a permanent draft guage.
Sometimes just watching the flames won't tell me much...on a big wind the stove flames dont move much but the draft needle swings.
Once the fire starts burning a pipe damper will let you set the draft to an exact number but usually it's been set to 3/4 closed. It will now ride in a range.. a damper will increase burn times but check your chimney more it lowers the temp of the pipe.
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