New here... Lusting over a new stove

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GG Woody

New Member
Sep 17, 2024
39
Lavington BC
Hello, new to the forum, most of my current internet searches lead me here so thought I'd join.

My family burned mostly wood growing up and I would rather burn wood than gas. We live on 12 acres, mostly treed. I enjoy the work, chainsaws, felling, splitting.
I installed an Enviro Kodiak insert on main floor of our last home, had it for 9? years, it was great other than a loud sometimes rattly fan.
Our current home came with a Pacific Energy insert on the main floor, we have been here for 8+ years, it has been great, the fan is less annoying, but to take the best advantage of the heat the fan is turned up into the slightly annoying decibel level.
I think I will order a Blaze King Scirocco 30.2 today to put in our basement, this will be a fairly large investment for us. I have already pulled a liner into an existing clay tile chimney and hope to make as much of the rest of the venting myself since I work in a sheet metal fab shop. I will have to see how many strings I can pull with the W.E.T.T. guy. I know I can make some of the fittings better than the available products and we have a bunch of "free to me" stainless sitting around.

Thats all, thanks for all the wisdom I have found in here.
More will be revealed soon.
Does anybody have some real world tips or tricks for the Scirocco 30.2?
Does anybody know the difference between a Scirocco 30 and a Scirocco 30.2?
 
Hello, new to the forum, most of my current internet searches lead me here so thought I'd join.

My family burned mostly wood growing up and I would rather burn wood than gas. We live on 12 acres, mostly treed. I enjoy the work, chainsaws, felling, splitting.
I installed an Enviro Kodiak insert on main floor of our last home, had it for 9? years, it was great other than a loud sometimes rattly fan.
Our current home came with a Pacific Energy insert on the main floor, we have been here for 8+ years, it has been great, the fan is less annoying, but to take the best advantage of the heat the fan is turned up into the slightly annoying decibel level.
I think I will order a Blaze King Scirocco 30.2 today to put in our basement, this will be a fairly large investment for us. I have already pulled a liner into an existing clay tile chimney and hope to make as much of the rest of the venting myself since I work in a sheet metal fab shop. I will have to see how many strings I can pull with the W.E.T.T. guy. I know I can make some of the fittings better than the available products and we have a bunch of "free to me" stainless sitting around.

Thats all, thanks for all the wisdom I have found in here.
More will be revealed soon.
Does anybody have some real world tips or tricks for the Scirocco 30.2?
Does anybody know the difference between a Scirocco 30 and a Scirocco 30.2?
When EPA released the new NSPS in 2015, manufacturers were required to retest all wood heaters. This mostly due to changes in the test method(s).

Manufacturers MUST designate a new model/model number when introducing a "new" model. A retested model is "new" to EPA's rule.

The SC30 when first launched, became the 30.1 in 2014. When the rule came out in 2015, the method changes mandate a retest before 2020.

That is how we got to 30.2. Clear as mud? Sorry for the lengthy explanation.

BKVP
 
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Real world (same firebox different aesthetics): have dry, dry wood. <20% inside (on a freshly exposed surface after resplitting).

Is your liner insulated?
These stoves can (and you will sometimes) run at very low heat output, and as a result have very cool flue gases. They need to stay warm enough for draft and to avoid build up.
 
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Real world (same firebox different aesthetics): have dry, dry wood. <20% inside (on a freshly exposed surface after resplitting).

Is your liner insulated?
These stoves can (and you will sometimes) run at very low heat output, and as a result have very cool flue gases. They need to stay warm enough for draft and to avoid build up.
Hey stoveliker, I do have maybe 4 cords of very dry Douglas Fir and a bit of Birch ready to go, I don't usually get through 3 cords a year as we do have a high efficient furnace and heat pump as well. It is just getting into the season of adding to the shed for next year. Is there a moisture meter that anyone recommends? I have never bothered to check but 90% of my wood is cut as standing dead, seasoned for at least a full year and stored under cover in single or double rows 6'x10'x8' tall. Humidity is definitely not high here.

Liner is not insulated as I had about zero room for liner in the existing clay tile. I did get some mineral wool insulation into a few spots and the more I read I realize I should try even harder to get some where I can. I have left as much access as I could. Thanks for helping keep the thought of insulation on my mind. Projects like this play over and over in my mind until they are completed!

I put a downpayment on a Scirocco 30.2 yesterday, I'm excited to get it in place and do some connections. Until then... insulation thoughts...

Here's my question of the day. Flooring is tile on concrete, block concrete chimney wall behind the stove which is part of the exterior chimney system, 6" manufacturer minimum clearance from combustibles on the back of the stove. How close to the back wall would be advised for placement of the stove? Less would be better for my almost horizontal short run of stove pipe. Can I be maybe 3" off the block wall? The block wall is painted.

More to be revealed...
Pics to come when I have something shiny to take a pic of...
Thanks for all the wisdom!
 
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6". If you place it any closer, there is the possibility that heat from the stove will radiate back at the stove and the thermostat will close prematurely thinking it is too hot.

BKVP
 
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Fir could be dry in a year split and stacked. That's good.
Dead standing can vary a lot.
I have an MMD4E. $30 (US) on Amazon. You may use it a lot the first two years, and then usage goes down because you figured out a procedure that works. (I.e. a timeline that works for your wood species and climate to get it dry enough.)

Note that the BK wants a vertical run of 2 ft, preferably 3 ft before angling back to go through a wall crock. WIthout this, you might have draft issues and/or smoke roll-out.

Finally, is the basement insulated? If not, a lot (30% in one study) of heat will go to heat the earth rather than your home.
 
Fir could be dry in a year split and stacked. That's good.
Dead standing can vary a lot.
I have an MMD4E. $30 (US) on Amazon. You may use it a lot the first two years, and then usage goes down because you figured out a procedure that works. (I.e. a timeline that works for your wood species and climate to get it dry enough.)

Note that the BK wants a vertical run of 2 ft, preferably 3 ft before angling back to go through a wall crock. WIthout this, you might have draft issues and/or smoke roll-out.

Finally, is the basement insulated? If not, a lot (30% in one study) of heat will go to heat the earth rather than your home.
Hey stoveliker, thanks for the good questions, and thanks for the recommendation for the moisture meter, looks like fun🤷‍♂️!

I have a little more than 2ft vertical above the stove, wish I had more, but it is what it is. Hoping to keep the horizontal run under 90° because of this.
Basement is mostly insulated, and is getting insulated better as I go through it. The idea is to turn it into more of a spot for the kids, T.V./video games, computer and foosball. It's fully underground and cold down there in winter as we use the upstairs insert for most of our heat. The concrete floor is probably the worst offender as it is bare in some spots and thin carpet in others, (new tile in fireplace area 12'x6') Whatever flooring I eventually get around to will have a built in insulation layer.
 
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Sounds like a plan!
 
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