Lots of ash/unburnt coals not much heat. The company says I'm outta luck

[Lsingle]

And in the middle of the fresh split face, pins parallel to the grain?

Yes

 

[Lsingle]

I use to have an outside chimney like yours and tried lining it without insulation because it wouldn't fit so I ended up stuffing rockwool insulation down as far as I could beneath the cap. This helped keep an insulated air space between the top and bottom of the liner and improved my draft.

Outside chimney can cool down fast and reduce draft once the wood off gassing slows down. Once your flue temps start dropping your chimney cools to the point where it doesn't pull hard enough to burn down the coaling stage.

Did the insulation help. Did it fix the cooling effect?

 

[SpaceBus]

Are these pieces of wood tested at room temperature or outside temp?

 

[wagne223]

If I run it with the plates all the way back I can't get the flue hot enough to keep drawing. The fire dies out very fast and I'm left with a lot of coals. If the plate is pulled forward the flue gets good and hot a draws very well and im left with less coals but also I don't get the heat out of the stove

When you are warming up the flue, either from cold start or reload are you:

-Filling the firebox with a several large and medium splits along with enough kindling for a fast light off?

-opening the primary air control fully. NOTE: on your stoves air control rod, pushed in is open and pulled out is closed.

-Leaving the door open slightly.

Those steps should cause a raging fire in minutes. Flue should get up to Temp within 10 - 15 minutes. Then you can close the door. Secondaries should start shortly after and you can start closing down the air in increments.

 

[Lsingle]

When you are warming up the flue, either from cold start or reload are you:

-Filling the firebox with a several large and medium splits along with enough kindling for a fast light off?

-opening the primary air control fully. NOTE: on your stoves air control rod, pushed in is open and pulled out is closed.

-Leaving the door open slightly.

Those steps should cause a raging fire in minutes. Flue should get up to Temp within 10 - 15 minutes. Then you can close the door. Secondaries should start shortly after and you can start closing down the air in increments.

Yup. Exactly like that sometimes I leave the door cracked longer to make sure the whole chimney is hot. It runs great until the fire starts to die down. Once it gets below 450 it mostly dies

 

[Lsingle]

Are these pieces of wood tested at room temperature or outside temp?

Both. The ones outside were out side temp the ones inside were room temp. I split them and then stuck the meter in the fresh split side as deep as I could

 

[jatoxico]

Does the basement ever smell of creosote or smoke? You should have a CO detector nearby.

 

[Highbeam]

It runs great until the fire starts to die down. Once it gets below 450 it mostly dies

The flue doesn't get cold and cause the fire to die. The fire dies which causes the flue to cool down.

Let's see a photo of this fuel all loaded in the fire box ready to burn. Many folks are timid about loading these things up. You can run that flue probe temp way up to 1000 degrees. 450 is about as low as you want to let it get until she just runs out of fuel.

Your one photo doesn't show a flue temperature measuring device on the double wall pipe. Are you reporting surface temperatures of the double wall pipe as 450? How are you reading flue temperatures?

Does the "smart" feature of this stove automatically try to run the intake control?

 

[Lsingle]

There's a small piece of single wall pipe coming out of the stove I read it there with a laser thermometer. I don't use the smart function much.

 

[Lsingle]

Does the basement ever smell of creosote or smoke? You should have a CO detector nearby.

No

 

[bholler]

There's a small piece of single wall pipe coming out of the stove I read it there with a laser thermometer. I don't use the smart function much.

Get a probe thermometer. Reading temps right there are not very accurate. They will read much higher than they would at the proper 18" off the top.

And get some co detectors

 

[Lsingle]

This is 3 min after lighting it with door cracked. Looks good but when I shut the door it will die out pretty quick

 

[Lsingle]

Get a probe thermometer. Reading temps right there are not very accurate. They will read much higher than they would at the proper 18" off the top.

And get some co detectors

I have Co detectors and smoke detectors. I do not have the creosote smell nor smoke coming back in the house

 

[bholler]

I have Co detectors and smoke detectors. I do not have the creosote smell nor smoke coming back in the house

Ahh ok I misunderstood sorry

 

[bholler]

This is 3 min after lighting it with door cracked. Looks good but when I shut the door it will die out pretty quick

Leave the door open longer then. Also pack more wood in there I see tons of empty space

 

[Lsingle]

This in 15 after starting the fire and having the door shut for 10

 

[coaly]

OP mentioned the liner was extended to get above roof. That doesn't make sense if the chimney is built right in the first place.
Is there exposed liner at the chimney top?
If this is the Madison model, an insulated liner is required for proper operation.
Not sure if it was asked, are you running a blower fan?

 

[Lsingle]

OP mentioned the liner was extended to get above roof. That doesn't make sense if the chimney is built right in the first place.
Is there exposed liner at the chimney top?
If this is the Madison model, an insulated liner is required for proper operation.
Not sure if it was asked, are you running a blower fan?

The chimney was not built correctly from the get go. I bought the house like this and learned the hard way. It a summers heat aka Englander.

I have a blower but I don't run it until it gets roaring

 

[bholler]

OP mentioned the liner was extended to get above roof. That doesn't make sense if the chimney is built right in the first place.
Is there exposed liner at the chimney top?
If this is the Madison model, an insulated liner is required for proper operation.
Not sure if it was asked, are you running a blower fan?

An insulated liner is not required for proper operation no. It may be to meet code and for safety reasons. And insulation will always improve performance. But I really think there is something else going on here.

And yes a pretty large percentage of chimneys are not built right to start with.

 

[bholler]

This in 15 after starting the fire and having the door shut for 10

I don't see a corresponding pic

 

[bholler]

Is there a cleanout in the chimney? If so is the liner extended down to it or is there a tee cap on the tee. Or is the bottom of the tee just open?

 

[Lsingle]

After I reopened the door and let it run for another 10 min I got the stove and the surface of the flue pipe up to over 650. So I shut the door and the fire basically went out again.

This is with the door shut for 3 min after having the stove and pipe up to over 650. With no secondary burn.

If I crack the door it roars back up and gets hot as can be but if I shut it this happens

 

[Highbeam]

Please verify that you know that on this stove you push in the air control for hotter.

Load that stove full. Pack it.

 

[Lsingle]

The surface of the flue pipe was over 650 and I shut the door it drops down to 450 within minutes

 

[bholler]

After I reopened the door and let it run for another 10 min I got the stove and the surface of the flue pipe up to over 650. So I shut the door and the fire basically went out again.

This is with the door shut for 3 min after having the stove and pipe up to over 650. With no secondary burn.

If I crack the door it roars back up and gets hot as can be but if I shut it this happens

Is the baffle pushed back in place now?