Log Splitter Engine Damaged???

[Ashful]

Ashful if at the end of the day if it all goes to chit and my engine woes persist I would consider buying your 675e at the right price if you were still interested. Just out of curiosity what engine did you upgrade to? Vertical or horizontal? And what GPM pump did you upgrade to to get that reduced cycle time?

I upgraded to an Intek 344cc vertical shaft, as I required at least 300 cc to drive a 16 GPM pump at the speed and pressure I was aiming to hit, and that was the only vertical shaft engine I could find above 300cc that would nicely fit onto that splitter frame. It works great, but being a cheaply-engineered Briggs, the intake noise is intolerable. Unfortunately, the vertical shaft Honda was too tall, where I feared it might get in the way.

My current cycle time is somewhere in the 8 second range, at a full 22 tons splitting force. I’d have preferred to go 22 GPM, and get my cycle time down around 6 seconds, but that would have required a custom cylinder with larger ports and more modifications to the reservoir on the splitter frame. So, for the sake of simplicity, 16 GPM / 8 seconds is where it’s at.

I kept the 675e, because I also have a pressure washer that uses the same engine. So, I’m not really anxious to sell it, I only offered it because I thought you were in a jam, and needed an engine. If that’s the case, I’d still let it go, but if you’ve found a better option I’ll just keep it in case the pressure washer goes kaput.

 

[brenndatomu]

I can’t see any reason why anyone would want to run their splitter slower than its maximum speed.

Well, by the time I get back with the next round, the ram has returned and is waiting on me anyways...so any reduced cycle time will only gain me a moment since most of the time I'm only using a partial stroke anyways, unless I'm splitting Elm, then probably gonna need to go the full stroke...then I may run it wide open...but I hate all the extra noise and fuel consumption, so I run half to 3/4 throttle most of the time. I guess I'd rather take my time and enjoy the work rather than work up a big sweat and stumbling all over myself "trying to go as fast as possible"
I very seldom have help splitting, if I did have help I could see a faster cycle time being an advantage...especially if you had 2 extra people, you could really fly then! At that point I would maybe consider a kinetic splitter.

 

[KenLockett]

Guys I picked up the 5.5 HP predator but not totally sold on it. When you consider the 6.5 HP horizontal shaft versus the 5.5 HP side by side it is amazing the apparent difference in quality and they are the same price! The throttle and the flywheel are going to be a PAIN to defeat/modify I think. Not sure I want to rig this think as I think going to need the brake to shut it off. VERY stiff. The 6.5 HP is specifically for an application wth throttle control only plus has electrical shutoff, fuel shutoff, and choke. Just overall higher quality and even has a nice large metal fuel reservoir. I immediately started considering how I could remount pump to horizontal shaft. I see there are threaded bolts at the horizontal shaft flange. Are there adapters for coupling if the hydraulic pump with Lovejoys to the flange mounting point. Bolt patterns between the flange and my pump at least do not matchup. If they did could simply use longer bolts for direct coupling although not sure how stable this would be. I really am not capable of easily fabricating anything. Not sure if Honda has mounting adapter. So many possible options. Have tempted to see if a small engine repair shop could simply replace the valve in my BS for $100 or less. That’s my threshold for repair or something used. Guess I’m kind of back to the drawing board here for the moment.

 

[Ashful]

Yes, there are adaptors for mounting your pump directly to a horizontal shaft engine. You can pick them up fairly cheap on ebay, or northern tool. However, getting the hose and pump arrangement right for being able to switch between horizontal and vertical without any chafing hoses is not completely trivial.

 

[KenLockett]

Good point regarding hose arrangement when switching between horizontal and vertical. Didn’t think about that. Will have to look at that. Thanks.

 

[KenLockett]

Found inexpensive bracket on eBay. I presume with regard to horizontal and vertical hose constraints that worse case hose length would simply need to be increased?

 

[brenndatomu]

Just FYI, hydraulic hoses aren't the cheapest thing...

 

[Ashful]

Yes, you can increase the length. Figure $30 - $40 per hose in that length and size... if you manage to get it right the first time.

It will pay to find a hydraulics shop (every town of any size has one or three), to just make the lengths you need. Take your old hose with you, so you can just say, "I want this in xx inches length".

 

[brenndatomu]

Having the engine shop just replace that valve is looking better all the time, eh Ken?

 

[KenLockett]

Yep. Called a shop yesterday as a matter of fact. $100 or less if just the valve but he said he would have to look at it first. Horizontal predator unit mounted with shaft on existing pump side would have but exhaust from engine right at me and bottom hose probably too short and I saw those prices.

 

[KenLockett]

Best small engine repair shop in Bennington, VT going to replace the valve and lash it in for $60.

 

[DodgyNomad]

Best small engine repair shop in Bennington, VT going to replace the valve and lash it in for $60.

Well, that was easy.

 

[VirginiaIron]

I run my splitter wide open 100% of the time. I’m also the guy who put a bigger pump on my splitter, as I couldn’t deal with the 11.8 second cycle time.

I can’t see any reason why anyone would want to run their splitter slower than its maximum speed.

View attachment 227349

Here is a reason. The noise isn't terrible and it saves fuel. My speed docent increase but maybe a second at full speed.

 

[Ashful]

Here is a reason. The noise isn't terrible and it saves fuel. My speed docent increase but maybe a second at full speed.

A second per split is a lot, when you consider how many splits it takes to make a cord of firewood. It’s also a lot of extra time to hold a 500 lb. round in position on the foot plate of a vertical splitter, while waiting for the ram to extend to contact the round.

I wear ear buds for the noise, and don’t burn enough gas in my splitter for that to even register as a consideration. I’m saving $600 in heating oil for each cord of oak I put up, and you’re worried about $2 - $3 of fuel required to split it?

I will admit, there is a threshold on noise, where even with ear buds it becomes a little annoying. However, a 22-ton splitter running a Briggs 675e is NO WHERE NEAR that threshold.

 

[VirginiaIron]

I'm glad you enjoy your splitter

A second per split is a lot, when you consider how many splits it takes to make a cord of firewood. It’s also a lot of extra time to hold a 500 lb. round in position on the foot plate of a vertical splitter, while waiting for the ram to extend to contact the round.

I wear ear buds for the noise, and don’t burn enough gas in my splitter for that to even register as a consideration. I’m saving $600 in heating oil for each cord of oak I put up, and you’re worried about $2 - $3 of fuel required to split it?

I will admit, there is a threshold on noise, where even with ear buds it becomes a little annoying. However, a 22-ton splitter running a Briggs 675e is NO WHERE NEAR that threshold.

No. I'm just saying I'm saving $603 for every cord I split and I am enjoying myself because the noise is so much less, that it REALLY makes a difference In the quality of life experience splitting the wood.

 

[brenndatomu]

Some people like to "hurry up and get there"...some people like to enjoy the trip...I guess I'm in the latter group

 

[Ashful]

Some people like to "hurry up and get there"...some people like to enjoy the trip...I guess I'm in the latter group

I got stuck behind one of your group this morning on my way to work. We hate that group.

 

[brenndatomu]

Ash, Ash, Ash...need to relax a lil buddy...your gonna stroke out man!
Seriously, I dunno how you big city types do it...went through Chicago for the first time some weeks back...

 

[blades]

Glad you made it through the War zone ( chi town) that is one ugly couple or more hours of stress.

 

[Ashful]

The city is a great place to visit, I was there two nights ago for a show at the Academy. But I don’t live there, I’m in the countryside a few dozen miles outside the city, within 40 - 60 minutes drive of any point within.

It would appear from this distance that Chicago has been on a pretty serious downhill slide over the last two decades. Meanwhile, Philly has really turned around from their low point 20 - 30 years ago, and is enjoying a very nice revival.

Of course, there aren’t many log splitters there.

 

[blades]

about the only splitting they do in ChiTown involves plastic baggies

 

[KenLockett]

Well I got repaired splitter back on Friday. Shop said everything looked good and that the valve replacement was a breeze. Told me to make sure I put new oil in as it has to be drained to make the repair but and that he didn’t run the engine after the repair but should start on the 2nd or 3rd pull. Very nice and knowledgeable sounding fellow. So Saturday morning mounted the engine and added the 18-20 ounces of 5w-30 full synthetic oil as recommended by the manufacturer and noticed that oil was quite high on dipstick. Again not being an expert figured well with the internal work the oil has to work its way in. Tried repeatedly to start the engine with no luck. Saw quite a pit of white smoke out of the breather when first starting and assumed that was just the new valve working. Well thought about it quite a bit that night and yesterday replaced plug and decided to siphon oil out until dipstick at the high level. Siphoned 12 ounces out and it was surprisingly dark! At that point tried to start again with no luck although thought she tried to fire a few times but not really close. At that point drained oil completely and it appears that the shop did put the old oil back in or at least 12-16 ounces! So I overfilled the oil. Well took the breather off and cleaned that out although more wet than anything with oil/gas residue. I see no oil through spark plug hole and when I try to start I see absolutely no oil residue on spark plug although it is wet and I smell gas. I also checked gas filter and have flow and the carb float had fresh fuel in it when I drained. Have also verified clean air filter and strong spark with new plug. Even tried some starter fluid in the spark plug hole. If I hold a rag over the spark plug hole and try to start I get no mist on the rag. I have no idea at this point what is going on. Called the shop but have not heard back yet. Any ideas fellows. This engine has always been hard to start in the winter and this is reminiscent of that time but of course is 95 degrees at the moment here in the Northeast.

 

[brenndatomu]

If you haven't done so already, drain all the oil and put in new.
Try starting it with the throttle wide open, no choke, it sounds flooded. Maybe even a new plug.
If it doesn't fire after a bit, you could try choke again for a few pulls.

 

[Ashful]

If you haven't done so already, drain all the oil and put in new.
Try starting it with the throttle wide open, no choke, it sounds flooded. Maybe even a new plug.
If it doesn't fire after a bit, you could try choke again for a few pulls.

This, and next time a dipstick shows high, don’t try to run it, or you can do serious damage. Consider the listed crankcase volume as a simple reference when adding oil to an engine, rather than trying to add that much oil to an engine that will almost always already have a little in the crank case (even after draining). Add until your a little shy of max on the dipstick lines, and that’s it. I usually start checking it when I’ve filled to about 80% of listed crankcase volume, and then add a bit at a time, stopping and checking a few times until it’s right.

Having said that, if the engine didn’t actually fire and run, I doubt you did any damage with an over-full crank case, other than a messed up breather.

 

[KenLockett]

Yeah thanks Ash. Have learned MANY lessons throughout this entire experience. With that said any other ideas as to why it won’t fire? Possible the repair was incorrectly done or perhaps adjustments were done incorrectly? Still waiting to hear back from the shop.