Log Splitter Engine Damaged???

[KenLockett]

Well if the full shaft is inside the coupling then the shaft 3-4 inches long that is inline with the 3” shaft that appears to be on most of the replacement engines. Specs on the BS 675e say true shaft is just under 2”. I may be good if I go with longer shaft. Just don’t really want to build engine up any higher with washers, spacers, grommets or anything else if I can help it. If engine is any higher it would be in the way I think and I like to do things ‘aesthetically’ you might say. Would grind down the shaft before building up engine mount to take up shaft length I think. When I get my next burst of energy will most likely take engine apart and replace valve as you guys mention parts are inexpensive.

 

[VirginiaIron]

Get a longer pump flange.

 

[Ashful]

If this is like my Huskee (both TSC rebranded Speeco splitters), then the 675e shaft might already be within 1/8” of the pump shaft, requiring a special open center spacer in the Lovejoy. Easiest thing is to pull motor and measure from motor mount plate to end of pump shaft, and then verify this is how Honda measures their shaft length (it should be). No pump flange on these, Virginia, although Ken could cut the original pump mount off the frame and go that way.

 

[VirginiaIron]

If this is like my Huskee (both TSC rebranded Speeco splitters), then the 675e shaft might already be within 1/8” of the pump shaft, requiring a special open center spacer in the Lovejoy. Easiest thing is to pull motor and measure from motor mount plate to end of pump shaft, and then verify this is how Honda measures their shaft length (it should be). No pump flange on these, Virginia, although Ken could cut the original pump mount off the frame and go that way.

Sorry for the confusion. To me, pump flange would mount to the pump mounting bracket, which would mount to the crankase of the engine. I forgot that vertical engines typically include the engine mount plate.

 

[KenLockett]

Guys cost to replace parts for the one valve (whole train) including head gasket is roughly $52. You know I could get a Honda GCV187 right now on Northern Tool for $204 with coupon. This particular unit has SAME length shaft and everything else equal on Briggs 190CC although 3600 RPM although BS specs say 3100 RPM although splitter manual says 3600 RPM!! Anyhow, don't think it matter to run this Huskee 11GPM pump at 3600 if it already isn't running at that speed. What do you guys think? Would really like an easier starting engine, maybe quieter and more fuel efficient too. Actually a bit more torque as well although not sure if this is a pro or con in this case. I'm still concerned I get new valve in and still have to deal with lashing adjustment, etc. and who knows if it'll run. I'm not exactly a small engine mechanic. What do you think. Only $200 for new Honda engine that I suspect is better than the Briggs anyhow.

 

[spudman99]

New engine. Engine is the most complicated part of the splitter. You should get many years out of the splitter this way and of course not have to worry about future failure. Yes its an extra $150 but you save probably half of that in less repair time, plus you said you lack some of the tools and the specialized knowledge.

 

[johneh]

Go for the replacement engine !! Save yourself a whole lot
of pain You do not have the training to do the work necessary
How is the valve seat does it need replacement does it need
to be ground . The new valve should be lapped in so it does
not burn and seals properly. Just an old retired mechanics
2 cents worth if you want it done right let a pro. do it

 

[Ashful]

No issue with spinning that pump at 3600 rpm. In fact, you need to spin it at that speed to come anywhere near the 11 second cycle time they spec on that splitter. Do the simple math, and you’ll see!

 

[KenLockett]

Hey guys if I could get your advice here. Taking the engine off the splitter and trying to figure out how to separate the engine shaft from what I presume is the Lovejoy coupling. there is a set screw at both ends of the coupling. I assume bottom for the pump shaft and top for the engine shaft. Took out the top set screw and not sure if I need to do anything else other that yank the engine out pulling engine shaft out of the top half of the coupling. I see there appear to be keys in the coupling but not sure if I need to maybe punch these out? The engine shaft does not want to easily separate by the way. Don't want to break anything so going slow and learning and hoping you guys can help. Attached is photo of the set screw. It did not come out easily so hoping I didn't break end of it off?? Take a look and is this what the set screw should look like? Anything missing? Thanks.

 

[KenLockett]

Just found a video from Lovejoy on installing the coupling. What I thought were maybe keys appear to be the spider legs I think. Guys does the set screw look OK? Do I just need to apply a mallet in the upper direction to unfreeze the shaft? Is a lubricant normally required? Any advice appreciated. Don't think it would be seized as almost no corrosion on the splitter parts as it has never been in the elements. Any benefit in possibly replacing the coupling or is it not really necessary?

 

[brenndatomu]

As long as the allen wrench still fits nice n tight in the screw, then they still look OK. Those only need to be loosened to remove the coupling from the shaft. You should be able to remove the engine with the coupling still on the shaft...it should just pull right apart at the spider. The spider/insert may come off with the engine, or may stay with the pump.
The only reason to remove the coupling for engine removal would be if the engine shaft goes through a smaller hole than the coupling OD.
Once the engine is off, you can soak things with some WD40 or something like that, then tap the coupling off. Some heat on the coupling from a torch would help move things along too...or a small 3 jaw puller would make quick work of it if you have one.
It probably is not going to come of easily...they have kind of a "friction fit" when new, and then over time seem to grow in place.

 

[maple1]

Just found a video from Lovejoy on installing the coupling. What I thought were maybe keys appear to be the spider legs I think. Guys does the set screw look OK? Do I just need to apply a mallet in the upper direction to unfreeze the shaft? Is a lubricant normally required? Any advice appreciated. Don't think it would be seized as almost no corrosion on the splitter parts as it has never been in the elements. Any benefit in possibly replacing the coupling or is it not really necessary?

A bit unclear. Is the engine still on the splitter? You shouldn't have to do anything to the lovejoy to get the engine off, the coupling just pulls apart. Nothing is holding it together. So just unbolt the engine mount bolts & pull the engine off, I think.

Then once the engine is off, that half of the coupling is much easier to get at and work at to get it off. It should slide off with some persuasion. A puller is the best way to do it. Shouldn't take much. A puller for that should be pretty cheap.

If the rubber spider thingie between the coupling halves looks good, just reassemble. If it looks worn or chewed, you could get a new one. You could also just get a new engine coupling half and put on new engine if you want, if the old one refuses to let go for some reason and you don't want to mess with it.

 

[KenLockett]

Thanks guys. That all makes perfect sense. Will make another go of it this evening. Think maybe I missed something on the mount. It was late and I didn't have the best light.

 

[Ashful]

Thanks guys. That all makes perfect sense. Will make another go of it this evening. Think maybe I missed something on the mount. It was late and I didn't have the best light.

It’s been awhile, but I seem to remember that engine having three mounting bolts.

 

[KenLockett]

Guys I finally got the engine off. Shaft length is 2 1/2 inches. Bolt pattern is 8 inches on center. The Honda GCV190 shaft is only 1 7/16". Honda GCV160 shaft is 2 1/2 inches. BUT...according to specs the bolt pattern is 8 1/2". Ughhh. Is this typically 8 1/2" on center or 8 1/2" from outer diameter of each hole? Wouldn't you think ALL these engines would have a common or standard bolt pattern? Bottom line is the GCV190 with longer Lovejoy or GCV160 as is would work AS LONG as the bolt patterns line up. What do you guys think? Think this GCV160 will line up?? The GCV190 is actually $10 less as Northern Tool. Any further advice certainly appreciated. I just want to get a replacement engine and put this to bed. By the way, looked at the Harbor Freight 173CC vertical (only one by the way that is even close) and it has maximum RPM of 3200 so not sure I would get the flow I need. But of course published bolt pattern is 8 inches. I know some have replaced engine on their Huskees. What engine did you get and did anything of them line up exactly without any modifying.

 

[KenLockett]

Here are the specs on the Honda GCV160. Now questioning whether the shaft is keyed. Anyone know?

 

[Ashful]

The bolt pattern is a non issue. Got a drill? Print out the new engine bolt pattern full-scale, and transfer it to the mounting plate.

 

[KenLockett]

Agreed but if the new holes and pattern are such that they overlap the existing holes then possibly a problem.

 

[KenLockett]

What about shaft key? The GCV190 lists a 3/16" keyway in the specs but the GCV160 does not. Do not know if all shafts generally do and it was simply left out of the specs.

 

[brenndatomu]

The shaft will be either keyed or tapered...almost all are keyed. The key way size is a non issue...if it is a different size than what you have now then just get a different LJ coupling to fit...they are cheap.
Oh, and the 3200 RPM on that Predator is a non issue too...IMO...do you really run your splitter wide open? I don't...and I don't know anybody that does...even if you do the small stroke cycle time penalty will be unnoticeable.

 

[KenLockett]

After much analysi and review on other forums in addition to Hearth, I am going to pick up a HF 173cc 5.5 HP Predator vertical shaft engine. Same shaft size, key, shaft length of 3 5/32 which after careful analysis is what I need and better to be a bit long than too short and these units have 8” bolt pattern. Others I have found have replaced the BS 190 on the Huskee 20 Ton using this engine with no issues and have all had positive feedback including saying seems to be higher powered and quieter. Only drawback is need to put on a throttle lever as built for remote cable and flywheel brake band which I understand can be defeated easily. Saw some Honda GX160 throttle levers for less than $10 that I understand will work on this engine. As matter of fact I understand that all the parts on this engine are replaceable with the Honda GX parts as it is a clone. For $119 I guess not that big of a risk anyhow.

 

[brenndatomu]

Might be able to catch a sale and/or use coupons to drive that price down a bit more too. HF almost always has coupons available...check fleabay, people sell 'em for a buck or so...

 

[KenLockett]

Unfortunately the 20% off coupons that I have found specifically exclude the predator engines.

 

[Ashful]

The shaft will be either keyed or tapered...almost all are keyed. The key way size is a non issue...if it is a different size than what you have now then just get a different LJ coupling to fit...they are cheap.
Oh, and the 3200 RPM on that Predator is a non issue too...IMO...do you really run your splitter wide open? I don't...and I don't know anybody that does...even if you do the small stroke cycle time penalty will be unnoticeable.

I run my splitter wide open 100% of the time. I’m also the guy who put a bigger pump on my splitter, as I couldn’t deal with the 11.8 second cycle time.

I can’t see any reason why anyone would want to run their splitter slower than its maximum speed.

 

[KenLockett]

Agreed. With that said I always ran my BS 675 at full speed but after reading specs all over the place I am convinced that engine ran at only max of 3100 rpm. The BS 725 runs at 3200 rpm. Actually found the 725e with a bit more torque on Amazon for $170 plus free shipping but reviews are not very good. It appears that these aluminum case units are not meant for longevity although I’m sure there are exceptions. HF engines are cast iron case with low oil press shutoff, fuel shutoff, and are inexpensive. Going to at least give it a try. Ashful if at the end of the day if it all goes to chit and my engine woes persist I would consider buying your 675e at the right price if you were still interested. Just out of curiosity what engine did you upgrade to? Vertical or horizontal? And what GPM pump did you upgrade to to get that reduced cycle time?