Jotul F45 Greenville Experiences

[Todd]

That about the same amount of soot I got out of my chimney. Just a fine brownish powder. Next year I’m going to get me a Soot Eater and try removing the top center lid and see if I can go bottom up.

I’ve been burning 24/7 the last few days with highs in the 40’s. Doing a 12 hour reload schedule with some Aspen. Gets a little warm in here at times but I can moderate the temps by opening the loft window if need be.

 

[Todd]

Look like I need to relearn my stove again lol. I just started burning 3 year old Oak and that stuff burns way hotter than the Aspen and Jack Pine I’m used to. It’s going to be nice with these cold temps we’re getting now. It’s 17 right now with a stiff NW wind.

 

[Crab]

Look like I need to relearn my stove again lol. I just started burning 3 year old Oak and that stuff burns way hotter than the Aspen and Jack Pine I’m used to. It’s going to be nice with these cold temps we’re getting now. It’s 17 right now with a stiff NW wind.

Yes I am sure it does. So explain your your stove's behavior with it.....Most of my oak is +5 years. I do have 3 cords of just 3 years css but that won't get used this year. Our cool down starts Friday but at this point lows will not get under 20.

 

[Todd]

It just burns hotter compared to a full load of Aspen. Stove top temp peak at 700+ with flue temps 600+. It takes a little longer to get going but it can really take off if you’re not watching.

Yesterday about 3 pm I packed the stove tight as full as possible and it was burning great with a good lazy flame with an almost closed air then about an hour in she took off and I didn’t catch it. I shut the air completely and just let her ride. Topped out at a 750 STT! It started settling down in about a half hour. I let that go the rest of the evening and reloaded on a good coal bed about 6:30am.

I probably don’t need to fill it that full otherwise I may have a coaling issue and the heat is a little too much.

 

[begreen]

I've had a similar experience with the T6 when burning locust. There are a lot more BTUs in these dense wood species, though the blue flames sure are pretty. I only burn it when we need extra heat. Last year I added a key damper to reduce the draft during these occasions.

 

[Todd]

Yeah I keep thinking about adding a pipe damper but I don’t think I will unless I consistently see higher flue and stove temps. A little spike here and there doesn’t concern me.

 

[begreen]

I did it in the name of Hearth.com science so that I could observe better how the stove responds with one. Now, I like the better control using the damper when the combo of very low outside temps + very hot burning wood increases draft. We had a stretch in the teens last winter that brought this point home to me.

 

[bigealta]

It just burns hotter compared to a full load of Aspen. Stove top temp peak at 700+ with flue temps 600+. It takes a little longer to get going but it can really take off if you’re not watching.

Yesterday about 3 pm I packed the stove tight as full as possible and it was burning great with a good lazy flame with an almost closed air then about an hour in she took off and I didn’t catch it. I shut the air completely and just let her ride. Topped out at a 750 STT! It started settling down in about a half hour. I let that go the rest of the evening and reloaded on a good coal bed about 6:30am.

I probably don’t need to fill it that full otherwise I may have a coaling issue and the heat is a little too much.

Yup i see that often as i'm burning mostly all oak when it gets cold here. You can go an hour and everything looks steady then it erupts when you are not paying attention and the temps shoot up and the firebox looks like an inferno.

I usually blame my wife for not watching the fire, Ha Ha ....but yes seriously she does let it happen and it's what i fear when i'm away for a few days and she's running the stove and doing a million other things all at the same time.

 

[Todd]

Pretty cold here yesterday with temps in the teens and a steady NW wind making it feel even colder! Loaded her up full around 7 pm with a full load of Oak and had her shut down in 10 minutes. Probably loaded on too large of a coal bed. This morning still have a good coal bed for reload and the cabin was at 70 , outside temp 1.

These Oak splits are a little smaller than I’d like. I need to go through my stacks and mix in some larger splits for this colder weather.

 

[topherbecker]

Do you have any opinion on the current\discontinued Greenville vs. the one about to be released with cats? My dealer has the V2 in stock, and I'm wondering if that's the way to go or would the new cat version be better.

 

[Todd]

Do you have any opinion on the current\discontinued Greenville vs. the one about to be released with cats? My dealer has the V2 in stock, and I'm wondering if that's the way to go or would the new cat version be better.

I’m still a little concerned with Jotul’s new cat design without a bypass. It sounds good on paper but how will it perform in the real world? They do have a 10 year warranty on it though so that seems like they are pretty confident in its performance. Supposedly it also has a thermostatic secondary air control that I like the sound of.

Now if you could get a steal of a deal on a V2 I think I’d grab it. I have no idea when the V3 is coming out or how much better the specs will be compared to the V2? It can’t be drastically more efficient. I think it may have a bit longer burn time and it’ll qualify for the tax credit.

 

[begreen]

I'd definitely go for the proven v2 if available. So far Jotul's cat stove attempts have a spotty track record. Hope that changes, but I'm skeptical of the no-bypass approach.

 

[Upnort]

I started burning with my new f45v2 last week. It's pretty mighty and I'm still figuring it out. Fires tend to burn hot and fast, but I'm reading all the threads and trying to get a better understanding of the stove and my setup. Anyway, I write because I'm wondering what and why I have this shiny texturing happening in the back. Pictures are when stove is off and totally cooled. The shine makes it look wet but it's dry.

 

[Jebb]

I started burning with my new f45v2 last week. It's pretty mighty and I'm still figuring it out. Fires tend to burn hot and fast, but I'm reading all the threads and trying to get a better understanding of the stove and my setup. Anyway, I write because I'm wondering what and why I have this shiny texturing happening in the back. Pictures are when stove is off and totally cooled. The shine makes it look wet but it's dry.

That's creosote. Likely occurs there because that's where there is an air intake pathway through that black metal piece. The incoming air cools the metal enough for creosote to form/condense on the metal. Mine does the same thing. Page 7 on this very thread you can see some on Todd's stove as well. So I think it's pretty normal.

 

[Upnort]

That's creosote. Likely occurs there because that's where there is an air intake pathway through that black metal piece. The incoming air cools the metal enough for creosote to form/condense on the metal. Mine does the same thing. Page 7 on this very thread you can see some on Todd's stove as well. So I think it's pretty normal.

Thank you! So I shouldn't worry about it? Appreciate the info.

 

[Upnort]

Thank you! So I shouldn't worry about it? Appreciate the info.

One other thing: when it comes to regular cleaning it seems like most dealer/chimney sweeps don't go under the top plate where maybe ash can get into nooks and crannies (and I'm not experienced/maybe strong enough to mess around with that), is that necessary for yearly cleaning or is that like extended maintenance sort of thing? And so I'd just need to find a sweep who does this? I know you all mostly do your own stoves, but I'm new at this and don't have all the tools or strength (I don't know how strong you have to be) but I'm happy just to hire a good reputable-not-outrageously-priced chimney sweep once a year until I learn more. Thanks!

 

[Todd]

One other thing: when it comes to regular cleaning it seems like most dealer/chimney sweeps don't go under the top plate where maybe ash can get into nooks and crannies (and I'm not experienced/maybe strong enough to mess around with that), is that necessary for yearly cleaning or is that like extended maintenance sort of thing? And so I'd just need to find a sweep who does this? I know you all mostly do your own stoves, but I'm new at this and don't have all the tools or strength (I don't know how strong you have to be) but I'm happy just to hire a good reputable-not-outrageously-priced chimney sweep once a year until I learn more. Thanks!

The baffle can either be dropped down into the firebox by removing the two bolts in the back of the stove or the top center plate can be removed for access to the top of the baffle. The latter has to be done be fore you install the stove or by removing the stove pipe to get access to the bolts through the flue collar. I’m sure a certified sweep could do this for you if you don’t feel comfortable doing it yourself.

I removed the bolts to my top center plate and vacuum it out mid season. It does accumulate some ash on top of the baffle and there are also some secondary air holes between those turbulator fins that could maybe clog with ash over time.

 

[Upnort]

I removed the bolts to my top center plate and vacuum it out mid season. It does accumulate some ash on top of the baffle and there are also some secondary air holes between those turbulator fins that could maybe clog with ash over time.

Regarding those secondaries, my stove is new and has only been burning for the past couple weeks, but I noticed when the secondaries are engaged, it's mostly on the left side of the stove, not so much on the right. Would there be any reason for this? I've also noticed that the right side tends to have blacker firebricks longer than the left upon the fire getting started up.

 

[Todd]

Regarding those secondaries, my stove is new and has only been burning for the past couple weeks, but I noticed when the secondaries are engaged, it's mostly on the left side of the stove, not so much on the right. Would there be any reason for this? I've also noticed that the right side tends to have blacker firebricks longer than the left upon the fire getting started up.

Could just be the way you load the wood in the firebox. Is the baffle level in there? Probably just need more time burning the stove.

 

[Crab]

The baffle can either be dropped down into the firebox by removing the two bolts in the back of the stove or the top center plate can be removed for access to the top of the baffle. The latter has to be done be fore you install the stove or by removing the stove pipe to get access to the bolts through the flue collar. I’m sure a certified sweep could do this for you if you don’t feel comfortable doing it yourself.

I removed the bolts to my top center plate and vacuum it out mid season. It does accumulate some ash on top of the baffle and there are also some secondary air holes between those turbulator fins that could maybe clog with ash over time.

I haven't found any buildup of ash above the manifold, BUT I do not have the turbulator and holes to clean. . If the manifold is dropped I would expect the manifold gasket would have to be replaced. I got one just in case when I bought the flue collar and doghouse top gaskets. Todd, I looked back at your pic with the top removed, how do you think the manifold is sealed to the sides of the stove?? does the blanket fill the gap?? And how did you get the top middle cover bolts out??? Got to 55 today with sun, good melting but still plenty snow around and there is still frost in the ground. Hopefully the rain with 50s on Friday will rid us of the snow and get the frost out of the ground. 27 tonight so all the puddles will freeze solid.

 

[Crab]

"After further review" of the manual it does look like the blanket has legs that extend down sealing the gap between the manifold and the sides.

 

[Todd]

When I removed the center top plate I went through the flue collar to get to the bolts. There’s one on each side and just to the side of those are the two bolts that hold the whole top on. You can remove that as well and there’s a gasket around it so I really don’t think the whole thing needs to be bolted down?

 

[Todd]

Waved goodbye to the F45 today. She was a great stove but it’s time to move on with my rebuilt Fireview. The Fireview should be a bit better fit with more radiant heat and lower output for those shoulder season days.

 

[VermontCrapstings]

I haven't found any buildup of ash above the manifold, BUT I do not have the turbulator and holes to clean. . If the manifold is dropped I would expect the manifold gasket would have to be replaced. I got one just in case when I bought the flue collar and doghouse top gaskets. Todd, I looked back at your pic with the top removed, how do you think the manifold is sealed to the sides of the stove?? does the blanket fill the gap?? And how did you get the top middle cover bolts out??? Got to 55 today with sun, good melting but still plenty snow around and there is still frost in the ground. Hopefully the rain with 50s on Friday will rid us of the snow and get the frost out of the ground. 27 tonight so all the puddles will freeze solid.

Is there anywhere online that carries the doghouse top gasket? I have looked and looked. Can't find it online.