Jotul 500 draft problem

[begreen]

Hi, yes, I'd like to get a look inside that area behind the stove where the flue exits. Sorry I don't remember the name of that part of the stove. And also the assembly under the top of the stove. Checking the chimney cap the other day there are virtually no deposits there. There are the beginnings of tiny little flakes. I intend to tape a bag around the bottom of the flue to do as you suggest.

Can someone please give me an idea of how flexible the nylon rods are that come with the Soot Arester? I'd Like to know if those rods will go thru a 45 degree section of pipe.

Thank you to all of you for your advise.

Ron

Should work fine. We have 2 -45s in an offset on our stove and the sooteater goes through them easily. Make sure that each section of the stove pipe and elbows have 3 screws securing it together.

 

[begreen]

Ron45 take a look at the FLIR images for this setup. It is very similar to yours and demonstrates how much heat is being lost with the single-wall pipe. I think if you switch to double-wall and burn dry wood that creosote accumulation will go way down.

Drolet HT3000 vs HT2000

Is your temp of 300-400 being measured on the outside of the single wall pipe? If so, that's 600-800 internal flue temp, which is hot.

www.hearth.com

 

[firefighterjake]

This is correct. Also, IIRC you can remove on the front nut/bolt on the oval plate and then slide the plate forward to remove it without having to remove the rear nut/bolt though you may need to loosen it a bit.

Edit: apparently I was typing this during Webby3650's response. His response is more accurate.

That's what I do with the oval plate in my stove . . . I loosen the nuts and then take out the oval plate without removing the nuts or keepers.